- Status
No one was judging you @magicmyst , although had I known you were a kayfun user I might not have suggested it. LOL, I have trouble with tanks that are more complicated than my car.
I have had my share of troubles with assembly, but often times it's overscrewing on a TILT. You are correct that the tank will come to a natural stop when it's tight, unless (and I've done this-- once and it was unpleasant) it's not totally level and you have this terrifying looking tank and gaping crooked edges everywhere and you have to do stuff like resort to pliers and cursing. Etc.
I haven't had a spitting problem with mine but I use rayon.
Anna
I have had my share of troubles with assembly, but often times it's overscrewing on a TILT. You are correct that the tank will come to a natural stop when it's tight, unless (and I've done this-- once and it was unpleasant) it's not totally level and you have this terrifying looking tank and gaping crooked edges everywhere and you have to do stuff like resort to pliers and cursing. Etc.
I haven't had a spitting problem with mine but I use rayon.
Anna
One of my Ares tanks has a rayon wick, and I thought I had it pretty tight in the coil (thanks to your advice that unlike cotton, rayon contracts, rather than expands), but that one gives off more sparks than the others wicked with cotton. So many variables, so many mysteries. It really is "Dark Arts"!
Man, do what I do when I'm baking and like, turn it up, turn it down, maybe?
It doesn't really work on cakes, but I feel like I am contributing to some sort of imaginary "solution."
That's weird tho I have never had a spitty siren but based on what you are saying maybe you need to make it a smidge LESS tight in the coil, because at first I was overwicking everything by a LOT. Usually though, it didn't spit. It would just get gunked really fast and then when I took the wick out, it had split in two in the coil.
Anna
It doesn't really work on cakes, but I feel like I am contributing to some sort of imaginary "solution."
That's weird tho I have never had a spitty siren but based on what you are saying maybe you need to make it a smidge LESS tight in the coil, because at first I was overwicking everything by a LOT. Usually though, it didn't spit. It would just get gunked really fast and then when I took the wick out, it had split in two in the coil.
Anna
That was it: I over tightened. When you screw the tank together it comes to a clear stop. When screwing it on to my mod, I tightened again, while holding the glass, and it turned some more. So be careful- you can over tighten and screw up the o-ring.
I cleaned her up and put her back together, and she's been dry as a bone for the past few hours.
And please, people, give me a break: I can tell the difference between the top and bottom o-rings!
On my first V2 the o-ring stuck to the glass and I tore it.
I was stupid enough not to realize you needed to use the smaller o-ring. It was a post on ECF that helped me solve the issue quickly. It's always worth mentioning...
I got my siren v2 about 4 months ago and since then my k5 took a vacation. I have never had a spit back/dryhit/leakage or gurgles with it. From my personal experience through trial an error it all comes to (how tight are your wick inside the coil).
Too tight and you will get dry hit, too loose and you will get spit back, a lot loose to the point you are not filling up the juice ports and you will sure end up with a leak.
I always set it up with a 3mm diameter, 316LvSS fine Clapton(2x 32+38), 5 spaced raps ohs about 0.68, coil about 4mm above the air hole.
Wick wise I use organic Japanese cotton, cut a strip about 4mm, peel of the outer layers and feed it through (its free inside the coil but more toward a tight fit rather than loose fit).
Cut the wick ends about 2mm beyond the wick holes.
That’s it. No gurgle, no spit back and dry hits).
Give it a try.
Too tight and you will get dry hit, too loose and you will get spit back, a lot loose to the point you are not filling up the juice ports and you will sure end up with a leak.
I always set it up with a 3mm diameter, 316LvSS fine Clapton(2x 32+38), 5 spaced raps ohs about 0.68, coil about 4mm above the air hole.
Wick wise I use organic Japanese cotton, cut a strip about 4mm, peel of the outer layers and feed it through (its free inside the coil but more toward a tight fit rather than loose fit).
Cut the wick ends about 2mm beyond the wick holes.
That’s it. No gurgle, no spit back and dry hits).
Give it a try.
I agree 100% with your observations about wicking, @M.Ali except I've yet to try SS and don't really even know what a Clapton coil is, even though I see people talking about them all the time! My coils are 3mm, 26g, 1Ω old school kanthal, and sit about 2mm above the air hole.
My coils are 3mm, 26g, 1Ω old school kanthal, and sit about 2mm above the air hole.Magicmyst.....seriously. You need to get you a spool of fine 316L SS Clapton NOW.
Just like you I was on 26g Ds and kanthal for almost a year. To me SS tastes cleaner, I know that’s relative but to me it does. Now with claptons end up with a larger surface area of the wire which will such the juice just like the wick before vaporizing.
To give you a prospective.....in term of flavor what your juice taste like will almost double with a Clapton build.
Down side it has a slower ramp up time so you have to either set a preheat on your mod or increase your watts a little bit.
Just like you I was on 26g Ds and kanthal for almost a year. To me SS tastes cleaner, I know that’s relative but to me it does. Now with claptons end up with a larger surface area of the wire which will such the juice just like the wick before vaporizing.
To give you a prospective.....in term of flavor what your juice taste like will almost double with a Clapton build.
Down side it has a slower ramp up time so you have to either set a preheat on your mod or increase your watts a little bit.
Seems like I’ll pass on the ares. I’ve seen similar post with concerns regarding its durability. Sliding mechanism that breaks off.....no, thank you.
I’ll save up for the ares v2.0
I’ll save up for the ares v2.0
I'll PM you when I'm ready to branch out. Don't want your thread to get off topic, but I'm clueless about SS coils. Don't you have to use temp control? PM me if you don't want to get too O.T. here.
Not necessarily. We all love and use SS wires because of its versitility. Clean watt vaping if you don’t like using tc, and if you decide to use tc it’ll give you a very stable vape experience.
Seems like I’ll pass on the ares. I’ve seen similar post with concerns regarding its durability. Sliding mechanism that breaks off.....no, thank you.
I’ll save up for the ares v2.0
I also thought for a while about Ares but realized that buying second Siren has more sense... if something breaks I can have spare parts be it post, insulator, top cup.... etc. for the other one...having 2 sirens I can experiment with one... I enlarged middle hole under coil to 2mm diameter (drilling it) and I love how it vape even more...because Siren is quite juice guzzler I also installed on this Siren Bubble glass from my Vapefly Galaxies spare tank and it works perfectly (I had to place one extra large "o"ring on top because bubble glass is 1-2 mm shorter than Siren glass)...
I thought many times about modifying my siren v2 airflow. Unlike you my plan was to widen to 2 half opened holes on the sides to make them similar to the center hole, but I chickened out. I was worried I might create a whistle or some how loss the smoothness of the airflow.I also thought for a while about Ares but realized that buying second Siren has more sense... if something breaks I can have spare parts be it post, insulator, top cup.... etc. for the other one...having 2 sirens I can experiment with one... I enlarged middle hole under coil to 2mm diameter (drilling it) and I love how it vape even more...because Siren is quite juice guzzler I also installed on this Siren Bubble glass from my Vapefly Galaxies spare tank and it works perfectly (I had to place one extra large "o"ring on top because bubble glass is 1-2 mm shorter than Siren glass)...
How is yours now compared to before? Is it now as wide the the k5 on 4 dots?
In my opinion enlarging those 2 side holes is very difficult or even not possible... you would have to drill it side way/ angled... enlarging center hole is relatively very easy but you have to be careful and not use drill bit bigger than 2 mm because airflow tube is small (probably inside diameter not much bigger than 2.5mm). Drilling middle hole with sharp drill bit is easy because you are cutting less than 0.5mm (existing hole is probably 1.6 mm) ... I use several light touches and do not press hard.
I do not used any Kayfun so cannot compare but after drilling I see small differences in draw and I like it.
Yep....i have a tapered fissure bur that goes from a needle point up to 1.9mm.
I’ll try it out. Thanks for the info.
I’ll try it out. Thanks for the info.
- Status
