Siren 2 tips and tricks

[mynextvape]

I just got this mod a week or two ago, and no issues with the coil itself and no leakage.
But same hardship with properly wicking it. Using bacon cotton strips, a single strip is way too thick to go through, but by pulling it apart it becomes more prone to tearing.
My first few hits I get intense flavour and smooth hits, but it goes dry relatively quickly in a matter of days. How much cotton do you use for this tank?
Using 1.0 ohm coil that come with the package @ 14-15 watts + nic salt juice + airflow opened all the way

Also sidenote: how low can you go in terms of coil resistance in this tank? Given it's MTL-based (would 0.5 still work?)

 

[ilporcupine]

I just got this mod a week or two ago, and no issues with the coil itself and no leakage.
But same hardship with properly wicking it. Using bacon cotton strips, a single strip is way too thick to go through, but by pulling it apart it becomes more prone to tearing.
My first few hits I get intense flavour and smooth hits, but it goes dry relatively quickly in a matter of days. How much cotton do you use for this tank?
Using 1.0 ohm coil that come with the package @ 14-15 watts + nic salt juice + airflow opened all the way

Also sidenote: how low can you go in terms of coil resistance in this tank? Given it's MTL-based (would 0.5 still work?)

What coil diameter? I don't use cotton bacon, specifically, but using pads, I just cut the width I need. You can roll it a little after you pull it apart, too.
I wouldn't sweat the resistance, if you aren't using a mech. As long as your mod is OK at that resistance, in power mode.

 

[Janusz]

I just got this mod a week or two ago, and no issues with the coil itself and no leakage.
But same hardship with properly wicking it. Using bacon cotton strips, a single strip is way too thick to go through, but by pulling it apart it becomes more prone to tearing.
My first few hits I get intense flavour and smooth hits, but it goes dry relatively quickly in a matter of days. How much cotton do you use for this tank?
Using 1.0 ohm coil that come with the package @ 14-15 watts + nic salt juice + airflow opened all the way

Also sidenote: how low can you go in terms of coil resistance in this tank? Given it's MTL-based (would 0.5 still work?)

It will work but I think resistances in range 0.7-0.9 works the best in Siren2...

Wicking in Siren is the easiest of all RTAs I own... I change wick in my 2 siren very often... sometimes every other day... I use rayon so cost is not an issue... for $14 I have enough rayon to last me many, many years... it takes 5-10 minutes to change it and enjoying cleaner better more flavorfull vape... after couple dozen wickings you will know how much cotton put inside... and if you put too much or too little you can always rewick it with more or less.

 

[stols001]

Thin tails are the key for the Siren, I'm pretty sure. Be it cotton or rayon.

I've vaped close to 0.5 (in TC) but for me it's best in the 0.8--1.0 range frankly. Etc.

Anna

 

[ilporcupine]

With respect, I cannot think of a reason to prefer any resistance number over another. It is irrelevant if your mod can deliver enough voltage to get to the current, and consequently, power that you want. It has no meaning in relation to a tank, without wire gage, material, and power desired per unit of coil surface.

 

[Fidola13]

I am quite new to using Rayon but have to say, I am sold on it, so pure, with no flavor & its easy to wick but I think its more suited to high ohm/low watt vaping.

I’ve been using rayon since the beginning of my building days abt 5 months ago. I vape anywhere from 35 - 55 watts and 420F with TC mode depending on the mod, atty and juice flavor. I normally run a simple round stainless steel wire between .25 to .8 ohms. The rayon has always performed stellar regardless of wattage and ohms. I love working with it especially when I read abt so many issues with cotton & leaking or dry hits on RTAs. I have to thank @stols001 for stearing me in the rayon direction.

 

[mynextvape]

Y

Thin tails are the key for the Siren, I'm pretty sure. Be it cotton or rayon.

I've vaped close to 0.5 (in TC) but for me it's best in the 0.8--1.0 range frankly. Etc.

Anna

Yep, putting in much thinner wicks in there has improved both the taste and lifespan. The trick is to make sure only very little pull when putting the cotton through the coil.
Switched to 1.5 ohm SS coil and using in bypass mode (3.80v) is working perfectly (22mm version)

 

[VapingintheGTA]

Just now I filled the tank and I got leakage. when I blow in the chimney, juice comes out from the air holes. What has gone wrong? I didn't pour juice in the chimney. But I did turn the mod upside down to see how much liquid is in the tank, which I thought should be harmless.

The blind leading the blind here.
Also, had to stop mid post to take care of something so I may just be repeating other suggestions, sorry.

I’m wondering if by turning it upside down... and if there may have been a space between the wick and the wicking channel. Could this have effected the tanks pressure seal/lock (terminology?). Therefore you get flooding coming from the adjustable air flow holes,

Could juice viscosity be a factor? Ie.50/50 ejuice causing the ease of juice flowing out, I say this cuz one of my RTA’s worked much better with a thicker 60/40 blend. idk. just guessing. Oh one other suggestion, if orings are older they may need replacement.

I’m having a similar problem with my 25mm Siren 2, it is flooding from the adjustable air flow holes. My cotton burns...... I’m gonna have to try it in TC.
Vonnie

 

[Janusz]

The blind leading the blind here.
Also, had to stop mid post to take care of something so I may just be repeating other suggestions, sorry.

I’m wondering if by turning it upside down... and if there may have been a space between the wick and the wicking channel. Could this have effected the tanks pressure seal/lock (terminology?). Therefore you get flooding coming from the adjustable air flow holes,

Could juice viscosity be a factor? Ie.50/50 ejuice causing the ease of juice flowing out, I say this cuz one of my RTA’s worked much better with a thicker 60/40 blend. idk. just guessing. Oh one other suggestion, if orings are older they may need replacement.

I’m having a similar problem with my 25mm Siren 2, it is flooding from the adjustable air flow holes. My cotton burns...... I’m gonna have to try it in TC.
Vonnie

If you checked both "O" rings (some people install the same "O" ring on top as on bottom...and this is wrong) one thing worth to check is if bottom pins are tight... IDK if on your bigger Siren (I have 22mm) you have 2 pins but my Siren have... first one (the visible one) can be tight but second one inside can be a little loose and juice can sip inside around the post.

 

[DaveP]

Wick the Siren 2 snug in the coil and cut the tails long enough to go through the circular cutouts on the side of the deck and on down to lightly touch the deck itself. Mine is wicked that way and hasn't leaked or caused a dry hit. The image below is from the Digiflavor web site. Their graphic shows the coil almost touching the air holes. Mine is about a millimeter or more off the air holes. Too close and you interrupt air flow.

Digiflavor Siren 2, Best MTL RTA Tank

 

[mynextvape]

Wick the Siren 2 snug in the coil and cut the tails long enough to go through the circular cutouts on the side of the deck and on down to lightly touch the deck itself. Mine is wicked that way and hasn't leaked or caused a dry hit. The image below is from the Digiflavor web site. Their graphic shows the coil almost touching the air holes. Mine is about a millimeter or more off the air holes. Too close and you interrupt air flow.

Digiflavor Siren 2, Best MTL RTA Tank

Yeah I have the coil just hovering a mm above the airflow holes and it works great. The only smallish issue I have is my cotton burning through relatively quickly (2-3 days).
I'm using a 1.0ohm SS coil on 15W + 175C TC (nic salt). Experimenting with the airflow now, 4th widest hole seems to give a good balance between flavour and longevity (taking rather long 2-3s drags)

 

[DaveP]

Yeah I have the coil just hovering a mm above the airflow holes and it works great. The only smallish issue I have is my cotton burning through relatively quickly (2-3 days).
I'm using a 1.0ohm SS coil on 15W + 175C TC (nic salt). Experimenting with the airflow now, 4th widest hole seems to give a good balance between flavour and longevity (taking rather long 2-3s drags)

When you say it's burning through, do you mean that the wick is actually burning or that you have to replace it every two to three days? Some juices crust over due to ingredients in the juice and others run a long time before that happens. Brownish color on the wick is usually caramelized juice and it looks burned, but washes off when you remove the wick and run it under water.

I vape mostly clear/translucent juices and replace my wicks about twice a week when I dry burn the coil. It's common to do that when the flavor starts to drop off.

 

[mynextvape]

When you say it's burning through, do you mean that the wick is actually burning or that you have to replace it every two to three days? Some juices crust over due to ingredients in the juice and others run a long time before that happens. Brownish color on the wick is usually caramelized juice and it looks burned, but washes off when you remove the wick and run it under water.

I vape mostly clear/translucent juices and replace my wicks about twice a week when I dry burn the coil. It's common to do that when the flavor starts to drop off.

The latter, I use quite clear/low sugar juice as well and it's exactly as you describe (caramelised, washes off). Pretty much same routine as you (change 2x per week and dry burn before rewick)

 

[DaveP]

The latter, I use quite clear/low sugar juice as well and it's exactly as you describe (caramelised, washes off). Pretty much same routine as you (change 2x per week and dry burn before rewick)

That's exactly what I do. After a few days the coil crusts up and you have to remove the wick to dry burn and water wash. A new wick is pretty much mandatory at that time.

 

[magicmyst]

Just cleaned, re-coiled and re-wicked my Siren 2. Somehow lost the bottom o-ring in the process. Replaced with one of the green ones that came with the tank. Noticed it didn't fit very snug in the groove. Screwed everything together nice and tight and it flooded like a sieve. WTF? I don't think those spare o-rings are right!

 

[Janusz]

Just cleaned, re-coiled and re-wicked my Siren 2. Somehow lost the bottom o-ring in the process. Replaced with one of the green ones that came with the tank. Noticed it didn't fit very snug in the groove. Screwed everything together nice and tight and it flooded like a sieve. ...? I don't think those spare o-rings are right!

Maybe you placed smaller (top "o"ring ) on bottom? I used both... green and red "o" rings on my 2 Sirens I have without any problem. A week ago I even placed bubble glass (from Galaxies RTA) on one of my Siren and had to place one extra one on top to be able use this glass and nothing is leaking.

 

[magicmyst]

Maybe you placed smaller (top "o"ring ) on bottom?

No, I did not. I'm not a rocket scientist, but I'm not that stupid. What I may have done is over tightened the tank, thereby "scrunching" the o-ring. Will try again today.

 

[stols001]

I hate to say it @magicmyst , but I kind of think you may have done that too. I've done it-- once. Double check because if the 0-ring is loose, I am almost 100% certain that it's the wrong one. I also have 4 Sirens and all the O-rings were fine. Unless you ah, got your hands on a clone or something, I'd be pretty shocked if the O-rings are incorrect.

I did have a tank once that was a bit off on tolerance to O-rings, but I just like fixed that by using a slightly smaller 0-ring and it was definitely a tolerance issue. Try flipping your tank, too, that sometimes fixes things since the one up top IS thicker, so I guess that might be the issue, etc.

Good luck though,

Anna

 

[magicmyst]

No, I did not. I'm not a rocket scientist, but I'm not that stupid. What I may have done is over tightened the tank, thereby "scrunching" the o-ring. Will try again today.

That was it: I over tightened. When you screw the tank together it comes to a clear stop. When screwing it on to my mod, I tightened again, while holding the glass, and it turned some more. So be careful- you can over tighten and screw up the o-ring.

I cleaned her up and put her back together, and she's been dry as a bone for the past few hours.

And please, people, give me a break: I can tell the difference between the top and bottom o-rings!

 

[magicmyst]

I hate to say it @magicmyst Double check because if the 0-ring is loose, I am almost 100% certain that it's the wrong one.

None of the bottom o-rings for mine, including the original one, fit snug into the base. When I re-wick, they're almost always sitting on the bottom of the glass.

P.S. Former Kayfun 5 users know a thing or two about o-rings and how to tell them apart.