Smok Koopor Mini 60w

[KenD]

Does the temp control seem to be accurate based on your experience with other mods?

I'd say so. I don't have any "premium" tc mods, only a Waidea flask, a Kangxin vf mini, and an Evic VT (had an sxk rDNA clone earlier), but the Koopor does at least hold its own in comparison. It's definitely way more accurate than the Evic.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

 

[KenD]

I retract my statements of the battery life. In fact, compared to my Kangxin vf mini the battery efficiency of the Koopor is better. I got slightly more than one Subtank mini tank out of the Kangxin on an LG he2, compared to 1 1/2 tanks out of the same battery out of the Koopor.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

 

[crxess]

Fasttech now has Black

Had it in the Basket..............but backed out.

Still waiting on the Cloud Chaser

 

[Croak]

Yeah, wait for the Cube amigo, wait for the Cube. You've already got a nice small, functional black TC mod with the D2.

 

[crxess]

Yeah, wait for the Cube amigo, wait for the Cube. You've already got a nice small, functional black TC mod with the D2.

Yea, I know..................But but bu b.........and the TreeBox

This is all getting to be just to much

 

[cheech226]

i pulled the trigger and ordered a mini today. seems that everyone here likes it. fasttech had it in black that ships the next day so i went with the black. i also ordered a 5 pack of tc coils for the atlantis from wov. i wonder which will get here first? /s
edit: wow it looks like the black model comes with a black sleeve instead of that safety orange one! love it!

 

[BigEgo]

Just got mine in the mail while ago. My impressions:

1) Feels even more sturdy than my IPV D2 and the the finish is very nice.

2) The battery door doesn't move around at all (like my D2 sometimes does).

3) As everyone says, the menu screen scrolls a bit too fast. Can be annoying but nothing I'm going to complain about.

4) No resistance lock. I assume there is some sort of "refinement" going on. So far it seems to work well.

5) I wish there was a TCR for titanium (or better yet, just one TCR setting with a wider range). I have the nickel TCR set to .0054 and it seems very similar at 450F as my IPV D2.

6) So far I haven't seen it ask "new or same coil" unless I actually change attys. Some people complained about that happening, but I haven't experienced it in my very limited time with the device.

7) There's two messages relating to temperature. One is "temp protected" which implies that the coil is at your max set temp and the device is throttling the power. The other is "dry coil no liquid" which happened to me as my tank got low.

8) I do not feel or hear any rattlesnaking even when temp protection kicks in.

9) There is slight button rattle. However, the button itself is nice and tactile, so no complaints there.

 

[TheBloke]

Regarding 4), the way it is on the Smok is the worst of both possibilities - no lock, no refinement. It picks up the resistance when you press fire, and then that's the resistance. If you need to re-set it you need to unscrew the atomizer, press fire with no atomizer present so it says Check Atomizer, then put it back on again. That will force the New Coil question, to which you say Yes and it will guarantee a re-read.

Of course on the Smoks you also uniquely have the opportunity of manually adjusting the resistance reading by up to +/- 50mΩ, so that's great if you happen to know the right resistance and it's within that range, but otherwise no use.

Regarding 5), there's a dedicated Titanium mode isn't there? But yes it's a big shame the adjustable TCR is in the very limited range 0.004-0.008. I very much hope they will adjust this, but there's every chance they won't want to so as to maintain differentiation with the more expensive XCube. At least 0.004+ covers NiFe70 and 52.

I imagine it underheats on the default Titanium setting, but 0.004 sounds too high to be a direct fix for that. So with Titanium it'll probably be a choice of underheating or overheating: positive offsets or negative, respectively.

 

[Croak]

You can easily lock the Koopor with the "Adjust Initial Resistance" setting, and that stays until you click "new coil - yes".

You simply manually enter the resistance in that sub-menu (up to four decimal places), and it bases all its calculations off that until you tell it otherwise. That's actually better than a simple resistance lock in my book, gives you more flexibility.

 

[TheBloke]

So on the Koopor you can enter any value, not within +/- 50mΩ of the current read resistance?

 

[Croak]

So on the Koopor you can enter any value, not within +/- 50mΩ of the current read resistance?

Correct.

Queued up to the appropriate time for your viewing pleasure:

 

[TheBloke]

Thanks! Yeah the menu operates the same as the XCube 2, but the XCube won't let you adjust it up or down by more than 50mΩ. So you can't just dial in any resistance, you need it to be within 0.05 of what it's read for itself. Which hopefully it normally will be, but it's not complete freedom.

Cool. Though I hope the resistance readings he got aren't indicative of real life performance for a knowledgeable user. 0.038Ω is a long way to be reading low. Are you seeing it read very low? Then again his box reader is probably not super accurate either.

"As for the TCR range, yeah, I'm not really sure what that is.." If only there was some way to find out? (Though I do agree Smok should give some info on it.)

 

[Croak]

He puts a lot of trust in that USA ohm meter.

USA Made Clear Transparent Ohm Meter *BLUE LED*

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I threw my ohmeters away...total garbage most of them! I'll be very interested to see how @TheBloke s measurements etc pan out. Tis true that some like the early SXKs read systematically low, and by about what he is seeing +/- so maybe this one does the same..I guess we will find out!

 

[BigEgo]

Anyone else tried to verify the authenticity of your Koopor on their website? I tried and when i hit the "verify" button, nothing happens.

 

[BigEgo]

Just got finished with my first full battery on the Koopor. According to the puff counter, I used the mod for 1,039 seconds, which came out to 384 puffs. This is on a Samsung 25R.

 

[AlaskaVaper]

The first day I had my Koopor I tried running a SS coil head, (the stock VCT X1-S installed in a Smok VCT-Pro tank and in TC it work well and held TC until something I did to the TCR setting caused it to enter wattage mode. Then yesterday trying this same SS coil to function in TC I was completely unsuccessful to get the coil to hold in TC at all. I wish there was some way to reset the mod to its out of the box setting because something I adjusted seems to be the cause of this. If were not for the horribly brief menu visibillity perhaps I could determine what I have done but unfortunately I am never able to react quickly enough to decipher and read the tiny screen before it disappears. Apparently I have been spoiled by the beautiful and fairly well organized screens on the X-Cube II and my Evic VTC's. my 79 year old eyes just cannot decipher the Koopor screen rapidly enough. I have more or less given up trying with SS on the Koopor mini at this time and will probably wait til I decide to do a Ti build for it.

 

[crxess]

He puts a lot of trust in that USA ohm meter.

USA Made Clear Transparent Ohm Meter *BLUE LED*

Seems expensive for stock box parts assembled in the USA........just saying

 

[BigEgo]

Just finished my 2nd full battery on the Koopor. Got 520 puffs and 1,600 seconds @ 450F on a 0.3Ω Ti coil. That's on a Samsung 30Q 3000mAh battery. This is 53% longer than what I got yesterday on my 25R (1,039 seconds on a similar Ti coil).

So, any rumor you hear about "bad battery life" does not reflect my experience. Any single 18650 will have shorter battery life than a dual box, but for a single battery mod, this one holds up well.

P.S. The Samsung 30Q is an excellent alternative to the LG HG2, which are sold-out almost everywhere.

 

[AlaskaVaper]

I have seen several complaints on utube as well as this list, including my own, about the dim small screen on the mini. One suggestion on utube was to use a hairdryer to heat the glue holding on the plastic tinting material and remove it. As I do not have a hairdryer I decided to used my small butane torch I got for annealing my wire. I figured this screen overlay was a thin tinted film and would easily come loose. I found that this was not the case as I had to apply a fair amount of heat and as the material softened a bit I pushed a thin knife blade into the overlay material and pried upward after giving it a bit of direct flame. The overlay popped off because the glue attaching it had been softened enough to release it.. I was surprised at what came off- it is a hard plastic perhaps 1 mm thick and not a film as I had thought.The underlying screen appears un harmed and the brightness of the screen is now fully acceptable, It is very bright.