Smok Koopor Mini 60w
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Here's a quick fix for battery cover shifting. Make a stop at the bottom inside cover to prevent downward movement. I used labeler tape (six layers) because it's tough and sticks well. Any strong plastic tape should do. Still easy enough to take the cover off.
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With EHPro Mini Buddha
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before I or anyone trys this fix, I am wondering at 1 mm - do you now have a 1mm "hole" to the screen? IOW the "screen" (er plastic) no longer is flush to the body?
-cf
My second Koopor still has not shipped from 3FVape, and in response to my ticket asking for an ETA they told me - first thing on Monday morning - that it would ship "this week". Useful.
The first one I ordered from FT will, as of tomorrow morning, have been in customs for a full week. Now taking the record as my longest stuck-in-customs package of any, and far longer than any previous Chinese package.
Then tonight I got an email from a local B+M vaping vendor announcing the arrival of the Koopor for £35.
So I'm thinking maybe I'll just go pick one up so I've finally got one.
The first one I ordered from FT will, as of tomorrow morning, have been in customs for a full week. Now taking the record as my longest stuck-in-customs package of any, and far longer than any previous Chinese package.
Then tonight I got an email from a local B+M vaping vendor announcing the arrival of the Koopor for £35.
So I'm thinking maybe I'll just go pick one up so I've finally got one.
You've got it bad mate. Real bad. 
Bloke, perhaps some day you will be able to enjoy the Koopor with the rest of us.
Also, I have a general question about TC that I am sure someone should be able to answer. When the dna-40 came out, it was my understanding that Evolv was using a temperature sensor on the board in order to compare the ambient temperature to the coil (assuming the coil was at ambient). This would theoretically make the temp readings more accurate since the user wouldn't be forced to let his coil cool to exactly 20°C (68°F) which is the temperature that the TCR specs are based on. With the dna, as long as the board was the same temp as the coil at baseline, everything was good.
So, my question is how do boards without temp sensors do it? Do they assume that when the user locks in the resistance that the coil is at 68°F?
Also, I have a general question about TC that I am sure someone should be able to answer. When the dna-40 came out, it was my understanding that Evolv was using a temperature sensor on the board in order to compare the ambient temperature to the coil (assuming the coil was at ambient). This would theoretically make the temp readings more accurate since the user wouldn't be forced to let his coil cool to exactly 20°C (68°F) which is the temperature that the TCR specs are based on. With the dna, as long as the board was the same temp as the coil at baseline, everything was good.
So, my question is how do boards without temp sensors do it? Do they assume that when the user locks in the resistance that the coil is at 68°F?
Have a read through the last couple of pages of Beyond Ni200 thread, coincidentally we were discussing that just today.
In quick summary: the only chip we know for sure that does not have a temp sensor is the Dicodes chip (Dicodes 2380 and Dani Extreme v2, and Pipeline Pro 2). And they do exactly as you said, they assume the temperature is 20°C. So when you lock resistance and then check the temp, it will - at base resistance - always show 20°C. The user is then advised in the manual that if the environmental temperature differs greatly from 20°C/68°F, to offset the target temperature accordingly. (I always thought they should have allowed the user to manually edit the temperature of the locked resistance, but unfortunately they did not.)
In the absence of confirmation and specific instructions from manufacturers, we have to assume every other mod does have one. But I was saying earlier today that perhaps it's not true for some of the cheaper mods, and it would be interesting to put an atomizer on at an abnormally high or low temperature room temperature to see if they're then inaccurate.
Im no better, Koopor and evic vct mini in the post, boxer 133 happening somewhere....totally out of control...Amen to that
I believe I understand your question. The tinted plastic overlay is separated from touching the actual screen by an approximately one mm higher shelf so the overlay does not touch the underlying screen. Possibly this was done this way to prevent formation of "newton rings" or such. Once the plastic is removed the actual chip's screen seems to be recessed into the body and no longer is there a flush screen. The recess is approximately 2 mm.
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Yes, I was wording that a tad poorly, I was wondering about the recess amount. In essence you will get a brighter screen as the plus side, but down side is a place for liquid, dust/lint or whatever to get caught up in. A matter of weighing pros/cons to ones needs/use. Thanks for the follow up
-cf
I can compare the Koopor mini to the Evic VT- Koopor is the same height and approximately 3/4 as wide as the Evic. It is very small and disappears in the hand.
It's closer in size to the Sigelei 75w TC, both a bit on the large size for a "mini" device. Definitely bigger all around than the Cloupor.
Cloupor Mini: 77.5mm x 36mm x22mm
Koopor Mini: 84mm x 41mm x 25mm
If you're looking for something of similar size with temp control, the IPV D2 is the same height as the Cloupor, about the same width, and 2mm thicker. Same with the eVic VTC Mini, just a hair larger than the Cloupor Mini.
And of course there's the new Cloupor Mini Plus 50w TC coming out soon, if you really like the Cloupor form factor, because it's identical in size.
i'm still loving my cloupor mini too. my only complaint is having to remove/replace the bat to update bat reserve meter. i use it everyday. i went with the koopor for the extra watts, and it bucks. i may get into an rta and the tc adjusts to many wire configs. my plan is to use the cloupor for backup and then i can gift my old backup vamo 6.
I don't think I will ever use different wire. I have no issues with my kanthal, silica and 100% PG in RTA's with great flavor. Don't like clouds and don't like dripping...
i've read the triton .4 ohm coils are ss. so with a bit of fiddling in the settings i should be able to use these tc, is that correct?
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