I took a little bit kidding over in ViVi Nova sub for my dust mop wicks in my nova, I think I have it working A+ nowView attachment 121092
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LOL...now all you need is a small micro motor to give the mop a rotating/agitating action and you're set!
OK just tried wiggling the spring and twisting down with the pliers, no change.
Then tried one magnet, then two magnets then 3 magnets on the base of the bottom batt.
Now when I press the button, flashing starts and is resetting itself and showing the 123.456.789 again.
So now it's resetting itself whilst the batteries are in. Any other ideas?
Or am I just been the most unlucky vaper and got 2 dud Vmaxs in a row???
Then tried one magnet, then two magnets then 3 magnets on the base of the bottom batt.
Now when I press the button, flashing starts and is resetting itself and showing the 123.456.789 again.
So now it's resetting itself whilst the batteries are in. Any other ideas?
Or am I just been the most unlucky vaper and got 2 dud Vmaxs in a row???
sounds like a bad vmax that needs replacing scribbles. also check the ohms on whatever you screw in. my rev 4 from madvapes will not fire a 1.5ohm dual coil atomizer, but it works fine on 2.5ohm and above things i screw onto it. also the 3v setting feels to high, but not as high as the v1 vmax. Its just to pretty to return though. i will keep it.
with some tanks and artomizers, if they are screwed on too tight on the vmax, it will give you errors. had that happen earlier after i cleaned my vivi nova tank and changed the atty head. i put it on super tight and got error messages.. loosened it just a little bit to a firm tightness and it hit like a champ again.
Although Scribbles needs to return Vmax to seller I wish to speculate about possible cause. From looking at pics of Dirkbongo's
it appears that PCB picks up negative connection from the same negative wire used to power socket. I speculate a cold solder joint on head with negative wire, I am just thinking out loud.
it appears that PCB picks up negative connection from the same negative wire used to power socket. I speculate a cold solder joint on head with negative wire, I am just thinking out loud.
See, I am kinda confused as to what version I have? I think I seen that it is up to like 4 already on here? All I know is, mine is SS, defaults to 3 volts, has a red display with blue button, you can turn off the display but not the button, and it seems to hit at 4.0 volts like my Lavatube, or my Kick does at 4.5 volts. Although, I am a bad judge at that. All I know is, it runs fairly cool with my Boge 3.0's on it. But with my Joye 2.0 atty's, it's a fire breathing demon (unlike my LT or Kick w/ same combo. I am obviously not trying to figure out "why" that is, just trying to give as many example's that I can to try and figure out what the hell I have! Lol. All in all though, this is a fine device, and definitely a Provari killer with all things considered (price, power, etc)! Love this thing! Any help would be great! Thanks!
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treat the Vmax as if it already has a Kik chip already in it.
voltage * Ohms = kick ... vaping !!! pardon my french, but this thing does add some extra power to your atomizer / carto / ank..
voltage * Ohms = kick ... vaping !!! pardon my french, but this thing does add some extra power to your atomizer / carto / ank..
Hey all.
Just started the Vmax up today for the first time. Did read the inset first.
All was fine, then the display started missing segments. It looks like it's only the first and last out of the three. So 4, 5, and 3 look messed up. And it is only on the horz line.
You guys think it is just a bad display?
Are they easy to change if so?
Thanks in advance
Just started the Vmax up today for the first time. Did read the inset first.
All was fine, then the display started missing segments. It looks like it's only the first and last out of the three. So 4, 5, and 3 look messed up. And it is only on the horz line.
You guys think it is just a bad display?
Are they easy to change if so?
Thanks in advance
Hmmm yeah I guess it won't hurt to wait for latest version for a backup Vmax.
I could easily be called a Provari fanboy, but i'd say a Provari vet myself. I only have one now.
If they did improve the threads on the batt cap my trigger finger would be itching!
I imagine it would take some tooling to beef up the thread grooves, but wouldn't it be easier to just lengthen the tube a mm ? It seems it's the pressure of the spring that tweaks the threads.
I could easily be called a Provari fanboy, but i'd say a Provari vet myself. I only have one now.
If they did improve the threads on the batt cap my trigger finger would be itching!
I imagine it would take some tooling to beef up the thread grooves, but wouldn't it be easier to just lengthen the tube a mm ? It seems it's the pressure of the spring that tweaks the threads.
Just sent in my request for VMAX Elite! Hopefully I will get in! So excited, coming in the mail today will be my new Empire Mods SS drip shield and matching Empire SS drip tip to slap on my SS MAX! It's gonna look sick! I hate to say that both my Lavatube and Bolt with Kick have been collecting dust since I've had the MAX! This is a great device! Love the SS!
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I just wanted to take a minute of your time (and mine) to update you on my lil burnt scent I had a couple weeks ago....its all gone now and Vmax working flawlessly.
In fact,the Max had nothing to do with that and indirectly,it was not my ultrafire fault either...in fact,it was all my fault.
See,I`ve been building a lot of rebuildables lately,build some,repair some...anyways.
I was looking that the stuff that was on the battery/wrapper (kept everything for further investigation) and it appeares that a very small blob of solder found its way on the wrapper of a battery and melted the wrapper,then glued itself to the battery metal case and would make a ground to the Max inner case from time to time...I dont stash my battery under/on my work bench so how that happend,I dunno.
Batteries been ditched,Vmax smell nothing,all is good.
In fact,the Max had nothing to do with that and indirectly,it was not my ultrafire fault either...in fact,it was all my fault.
See,I`ve been building a lot of rebuildables lately,build some,repair some...anyways.
I was looking that the stuff that was on the battery/wrapper (kept everything for further investigation) and it appeares that a very small blob of solder found its way on the wrapper of a battery and melted the wrapper,then glued itself to the battery metal case and would make a ground to the Max inner case from time to time...I dont stash my battery under/on my work bench so how that happend,I dunno.
Batteries been ditched,Vmax smell nothing,all is good.
As I explained in a earlier post....their are ONLY "2" VERSIONS OF THE VMAX AS FAR AS INTERNAL CHIPSETS"
The V1 : A tad wobbly and rattlely button.
Absolute crazy power that was almost too much....almost
Simply put.....A BEAST!! (as Freddie put it by starting the pun)
Voltage feel didn't match up to voltage set output (ex. 4v felt like 5v)
The V2 : Button fixed, no rattle...no wobble...much tighter
Power was "de"-tuned a bit (not enough to really notice IMO)
3 volt "default" startup
On startup the led display is default to "OFF" (must go to menu "[6.Lo]" and turn the display on[L.on] )
Diagnostic screen sartup showing: 123..456..789
New "added" function/ability to turn off the red number led display while blue fire button stays on
The voltage feel to voltage output setting now feels more like .5v difference (ex. 4v "feels like 4.5v) IMO
Version 3 (or what vendors and people are "calling" V4: Everything listed above in Version2 but now with a eGo style top cap connector that is 1/2" longer in height with the milled dimples on the vertical riser instead of on the tapered slant. The connector is also larger in diameter at the inner drip well recces to accommodate for the added diameter of the eGo style connections (stardust, eGo clearo's, eGo mega carto's,etc...)
** The absolute ONLY difference from V2 to all the other Versions that are said to be out there are "STRICTLY" aesthetics. EVERY unit ""after"" the V1 has the SAME internal chipset and board. Although their IS now a "blue" led option on some models out there which is very sweet...looks like my prototype Slick bodied Blue led VMAX is finally going to get some company.
I really hope this clears some questions up and eliminates any and all guess work as to what version you all have / are going to get when you go to order. Take care all...and enjoy your weekend !!!!!
EDIT: This sleeve only let batteries still fit in on my V1 but would not let batteries clear on my SS One more reason to add thin plastic sleeve to inside of tube as I mentioned a few pages back. Good to know that it wasn't another Vmax going south.
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Well i think this is a new one Melissa. What version did you get?
Sounds like a bad LCD so I would certainly consider swapping it
for a replacement unit. Of course, if it doesn't bother you that much
and assuming all other functionality is unaffected, you could just keep
it. If it were mine I'd likely ask for a replacement.
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