Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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pwyll

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All I know is when I vape mods with boost I always think to myself wtf why am I getting such weak hits now when a hour before it was hitting like a champ. This has never happend to me with the VMax.

I personally can't say anything about that--the only vv I've tried before the VMax were step-down converters. Then again, I've personally never had a problem running batteries in series even though it's become vogue to disdain "stacked batteries."
 

billherbst

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The whole discussion of buck versus boost and PWM---which is ongoing in this thread and others---is very interesting to me. I hope we eventually get to the bottom of it.

Of the 20-or-so VV mods I own---which include linear regulators, switching regulators, constant voltage, PWM, buck, and boost---the winner for me early on (more than a year ago) was the simple Fairchild linear regulator in Madvapes VV Boxes, which could handle the dual coil cartos I used back then at higher voltages. Since then, I've acquired more sophisticated VVs, including a BuzzPro and iPro, three Young-June Vtubes (v1.5t and v2.0), a Vmax v2, and even an Ovale V8 (which, except for two eGo Twists that hardly count, is the least expensive VV I own). Of those, the Vmax and Ovale V8 are monsters at low voltage settings.

I don't use dual-coil cartos anymore---I've snipped one coil from most of the DCs in my stash, effectively doubling their resistance---but, even with single coils measuring 4 or 5 ohms, I hardly ever want or need to go higher than a 4.0 volt setting on either the Vmax or Ovale V8.

I've never really bought the buck-versus-boost argument and assumed instead that such dramatic and hard-hitting low-voltage performance has something to do with the way PWM is implemented in those particular devices. I'd love to get the real skinny on this, however, in a way that is more than just someone's opinion.

I don't mean to imply that people shouldn't post their opinions. Opinions are allowed and encouraged on a forum such as this. But personal experience varies so widely based on all sorts of unstated or even unknown factors that many statements offered as fact simply aren't. I'd like to understand more about the way all these devices are actually built and function.
 
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Errol

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I never said it actually drops, I said it feels like it does...why? I have no clue. Step down PWM just feels like it holds so much more true power when vaping at higher voltages than any boost mod I have used....specially once you're into a long chain vaping session and things start to warm up.

I'll go back and delete my posts if ya'll feel like that was just such a big bashing....not trying to bash anything.

My thinking is that the VMax is a 5amp unit and the LT by any name is 2.5amp and 3amp, the Provari is 3.5amp. Now I realize that any of these amp ratings should be able to vape a 3.5ohm atomizer at 6v but I imagine the amperage power behind the VMax has to have some advantage, even with a 3.5ohm atomizer assuming all batteries are fully charged.

Just guessing as like BillHerbst I am no engineer.

Edit: I want folks to know that with great effort I resisted the urge to use engine horsepower for a comparison. :) :)

Errol
 
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Optimo

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The whole discussion of buck versus boost and PWM---which is ongoing in this thread and others---is very interesting to me. I hope we eventually get to the bottom of it.

Of the 20-or-so VV mods I own---which include linear regulators, switching regulators, constant voltage, PWM, buck, and boost---the winner for me early on (more than a year ago) was the simple Fairchild linear regulator in Madvapes VV Boxes, which could handle the dual coil cartos I used back then at higher voltages. Since then, I've acquired more sophisticated VVs, including a BuzzPro and iPro, three Young-June Vtubes (v1.5t and v2.0), a Vmax v2, and even an Ovale V8 (which, except for two eGo Twists that hardly count, is the least expensive VV I own). Of those, the Vmax and Ovale V8 are monsters at low voltage settings.

I don't use dual-coil cartos anymore---I've snipped one coil from most of the DCs in my stash, effectively doubling their resistance---but, even with single coils measuring 4 or 5 ohms, I hardly ever want or need to go higher than a 4.0 volt setting on either the Vmax or Ovale V8.

I've never really bought the buck-versus-boost argument and assumed instead that such dramatic and hard-hitting low-voltage performance has something to do with the way PWM is implemented in those particular devices. I'd love to get the real skinny on this, however, in a way that is more just someone's opinion.

I don't mean to imply that people shouldn't post their opinions. Opinions are allowed and encouraged on a forum such as this. But personal experience varies so widely based on all sorts of unstated or even unknown factors that many statements offered as fact simply aren't. I'd like to understand more about the way all these devices are actually built and function.

I bet VAPNJ could get to the bottom of this for us...wait till he can chime in :)
 

VAPNJ350

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All I know is when I vape mods with boost I always think to myself wtf why am I getting such weak hits now when a hour before it was hitting like a champ. This has never happend to me with the VMax.

Well lets think about that. This is "MY" experience as I'm pretty sure most if not ALL of you VMAX owners can/could agree with this on some basic fundamental level.....or not.

Ok so here goes it...let's face it, when you pick up your VMAX and use it for any time period then maybe pick up a......well any other mod they all kinda fall short in comparison as far as that POW in your face vape experience and yes maybe even "feel a bit on the weak side. But keep in mind what you were just using prior to picking the 2nd device. The VMAX did not get it's "BEAST" reputation by being a 3.7v put together box mod nor does it perform like one.

That being said....If your using your VMAX then go to a boosted type device then go back to the VMAX 20 min. later you most definitely might have that feeling of not being or having a very satisfying vape. I have both so I can attest to every aspect of the switch from Provari, which is a awesome device, and the VMAX, and I have both versions of both. When I go from my VMAX to my Provari V2 even I have to double check my voltage to make sure it's on 4.3v and sometimes even have to bump it up to 4.5-4.7v to get the same "POW" type of draw that I've grown accustom to with the MAX. Is that saying the Provari is crappy, HELL NO. Let's be honest and give credit where it's absolutely due. The Provari was the definate
'game changer" and the staple we compared ALL mods to until recent even before the VMAX. The Provari is hands down the absolute best, most accurate boosted circuit tube mod available. With it's accu-tune circuitry you get the voltage you set it at "underload". To boost a 3.7v battery and get it to do that up to 6v is really impressive and adding that it's basically bullet-proof......enough said I think.
 

matrixxu

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The PWM function on the vmax is just not calibrated properly. The higher you go in the voltage setting, the closer it gets to being accurate. From 3v setting feeling like 4-4.2 setting, it gets to feeling like 6.3v when being set at 6v. What i usually vape at 4.8 setting on the vmax i set at 5.1v on my other mods with the SWADJ3 circuit ( 25W max , step down switching regulator, 3A continuous, up to 4.5A on under 10 seconds burst - i never take drags longer than 4 seconds ). There's no "omg, this is a beast" , it just feels like a higher voltage than the setting. I am used to good step down regulators, there's no delay in the way the power is delivered to the atomizer.
 

billherbst

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The PWM function on the vmax is just not calibrated properly. The higher you go in the voltage setting, the closer it gets to being accurate. From 3v setting feeling like 4-4.2 setting, it gets to feeling like 6.3v when being set at 6v. What i usually vape at 4.8 setting on the vmax i set at 5.1v on my other mods with the SWADJ3 circuit ( 25W max , step down switching regulator, 3A continuous, up to 4.5A on under 10 seconds burst - i never take drags longer than 4 seconds ). There's no "omg, this is a beast" , it just feels like a higher voltage than the setting. I am used to good step down regulators, there's no delay in the way the power is delivered to the atomizer.

On my short list of possible reasons for the Vmax and Ovale V8 hitting so hard at lower voltage settings---short because of my limited knowledge, since many more possibilities may exist than I know about---non-linear calibration is always near the top.

I have the same experience as matrixxu, right down to his example numbers. As the voltage settings go up, my Vmax and V8 operate progressively less like monsters and more like the rest of my VVs (up to their amp limits of course). The biggest "extra whomp" is in the 3-4 volt range, with the 4-5 volt range providing some extra intensity, but not as much, and the 5-6 volt range being very similar to my other VVs. I'd liken that to the "Sport Mode" button on my Saab 9-5 automatic transmission. When clicked on, the curve of foot pedal throw to gas delivery to the pistons is altered, so that the V6 turbo leaps off the line faster, giving the impression of much greater power. At max speed, however, Sport and Regular Mode are exactly the same.

It's hard for me to believe that this is a "calibration error," however. Surely SmokTech's and Ovale's engineers/chip programmers know what they're doing well enough to be aware of the effects of this non-linearity. I mean, they do test these devices before shipping them out, right? And part of testing is to compare them to competitor's devices, right?

I have to conclude that they intended their devices to perform as they do, although the SmokTech engineers may have initially overshot the target. Look at the difference between a Vmax v1 and v2. When the initial reactions from the marketplace were mixed rather than overwhelmingly positive, the chip techs tweaked the PWM algorithms (or whatever they do) to tone down some of that OMG-my-lungs-are-exploding intensity at the 3.0 volt setting. Since they reduced it, I assume that they could also have removed it totally, but they chose not to.

I might even speculate that on the v1 the SmokTech engineers may have been thinking, "Let's throw the ProVari fans a curve and give them something to think about..." LOL.
 

melissafara

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Well i think this is a new one Melissa. What version did you get?
Sounds like a bad LCD so I would certainly consider swapping it
for a replacement unit. Of course, if it doesn't bother you that much
and assuming all other functionality is unaffected, you could just keep
it. If it were mine I'd likely ask for a replacement.

Thanks Fuzzi!

I'm not sure I could send it back. I bought it from Chaos. It was what he had leftover from a co-op.
I does make it hard to read the screen.
 

dwcraig1

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This only worked on my V1 as batteries would not fit in with sleeve on my stainless steel model
I have been carrying a 3 cell Maglite around every night for a lot of years and I always put a sleeve between batteries and body because of problems with the wrappers on the batteries wearing through because of constant movement. Well I was reading somewhere on the forum about adding a sleeve to to tube. If the side of can on first battery in on a Vmax grounds the end battery would become dead shorted (in my pocket no doubt) so I made a sleeve from some binder pocket plastic as it is thin and durable. I didn't glue or tape , i just cut to right size and put it in there.
 

Cowboy Cru

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The V2 VMaxes still feel like they hit harder than most mods not because it's displayed voltage is not accurate but because of the step down PWN circuitry is much more efficient than say a Provari/LavaTubes boost circuitry. Boosting a 3.7 volt battery to more than 3.7 volts is going to give you a weaker less stable hit than stepping down two 3.7 volt batteries which is 8.4 volts fully charged. Therefore the VMax hit's much more consistent without dropping voltage during the hit your taking which makes it feel like it hits harder than other mods.

Edited for the Provari lovers: This is just my opinion after using mods with boost and mods with step down.

Damn good point here! Dare I say a truly more accurate device! :)
 

VAPNJ350

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Man, I keep hitting the 10 sec cutoff, Anyone know a way around this with the rev 4? Figured I'd ask, Thanks!! :)

-I suppose I could just crank up the voltage ;)



I do too. I told Smoktech the 1st thing they should consider changing is the 10 sec cutoff to 15-20 sec cutoff. I like a slow, long draw. Dam no matter how you say or type that it just doesn't sound right at all...lol !!

I just let off and press back on it about 5-6 sec into my draw. Not perfect but it gets the outcome I want.
 

Optimo

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I do too. I told Smoktech the 1st thing they should consider changing is the 10 sec cutoff to 15-20 sec cutoff. I like a slow, long draw. Dam no matter how you say or type that it just doesn't sound right at all...lol !!

I just let off and press back on it about 5-6 sec into my draw. Not perfect but it gets the outcome I want.

How do ya'll take 10 sec hits? I take a 2-4 sec drag and get enough vapor to almost choke on lol. Right now I'm running a 2.0 ohm dual coil setup on the Phoenix RA and a good 3 sec drag has hella TH and massive vapor at 5 volts and the flavor is down right amazing. 10 secs would put me into a coma haha.
 
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Optimo

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I was hoping to hear from some of you folks here about how this thing works but I could not wait any longer as I finished my Nova and need something else inexpensive to toy with so I ordered one just now from LiteCigUSA for $14.95

You should try out the Phoenix RA...they came down to about 15 bucks at several vendors. The vape off these are down right amazing. You can use SS mesh wicks as well. Haven't touched anything else since I got one.
 
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