Smoktech ZMax Owners - Pics., Tips, Tricks and Quirks

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hubblecraft83

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What's up hubble! :) Actually there's nothing wrong with the China Mini DID Clone! It vapes like a FREAKING STEAM TRAIN and the manufacturer will be releasing the CLEAR tanks for them! :)

Excellent! Can't wait to get some coils on it :) That will be sick with the clear tank. I saw one guy cut a tank tube out of a 10cc syringe and it worked great. I have some 10cc's and will try that this weekend. I'll let you know.

Do you have any tips? Should I have the wick loose in the hole or flush for example?

Thanks!
 

Freddie

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Excellent! Can't wait to get some coils on it :) That will be sick with the clear tank. I saw one guy cut a tank tube out of a 10cc syringe and it worked great. I have some 10cc's and will try that this weekend. I'll let you know.

Do you have any tips? Should I have the wick loose in the hole or flush for example?

Thanks!
Measure your Mesh 5/8 in.(Width) and 1 3/8 in.(Length)! Before you roll your wick Oxidize it 8 times on each side, then you are going to fold in one side about 1/16 in. on length and from the Top, thus rolling your wick towards the folded part(USE a LARGE Paper Clip to roll your wick) and then you are going to Oxidize your wick again 10-12 times! YOU SHOULD NOT have NO PROBLEMS with your juice wicking! ALWAYS REMEMBER this, MAKE SURE YOUR AIR HOLE is LINED UP with your WICK which EQUALS MAXIMUM VAPOR PRODUCTION! :)
 

hubblecraft83

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Measure your Mesh 5/8 in.(Width) and 1 3/8 in.(Length)! Before you roll your wick Oxidize it 8 times on each side, then you are going to fold in one side about 1/16 in. on length and from the Top, thus rolling your wick towards the folded part(USE a LARGE Paper Clip to roll your wick) and then you are going to Oxidize your wick again 10-12 times! YOU SHOULD NOT have NO PROBLEMS with your juice wicking! ALWAYS REMEMBER this, MAKE SURE YOUR AIR HOLE is LINED UP with your WICK which EQUALS MAXIMUM VAPOR PRODUCTION! :)

Thanks a lot Freddie :) So roll it onto the paperclip and don't roll it any tighter after removing said paperclip, right? What mesh are you using? I have 325 and 400. For wire I have Kanthal A-1 28 and 32 gauge.

I have heard mixed things about the China DID with regards to the hole lining up with the wick. Does yours line right up or do you have a thread gap to attain alignment? I hope mine lines up. *crosses fingers
 

Freddie

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Thanks a lot Freddie :) So roll it onto the paperclip and don't roll it any tighter after removing said paperclip, right? What mesh are you using? I have 325 and 400. For wire I have Kanthal A-1 28 and 32 gauge.

I have heard mixed things about the China DID with regards to the hole lining up with the wick. Does yours line right up or do you have a thread gap to attain alignment? I hope mine lines up. *crosses fingers
I use 325 mesh for higher VG, but I am going to order 500 mesh because I was to told and confirmed that 500 mesh wicks a hella of a lot better! :)
 

jackbox

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He removed insulation from an 18650 battery and put it in ZMax backward and of course the hot spring melted because he shorted the battery. But then he complains with a melted hotspring the ZMax still fires. Of course it will still fire being a metal tube that is all ground, and the side of the battery making connection with the tube. He is trying to show that with a melted hotspring the unit still fires, but with an insulated battery it won't. Lots of Smoktech haters trying to knock Smoktech mods with specious arguments and ridiculous scenarios. If you strip the plastic off a battery and put it in any metal tube mod with a melted hotspring it will still fire because the side of the battery is completing ground to the side of the metal tube. If the Panasonic is too wide to go into the mod, use a battery that is really 18mm in diameter that will fit.
 

Freddie

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He removed insulation from an 18650 battery and put it in ZMax backward and of course the hot spring melted because he shorted the battery. But then he complains with a melted hotspring the ZMax still fires. Of course it will still fire being a metal tube that is all ground, and the side of the battery making connection with the tube. He is trying to show that with a melted hotspring the unit still fires, but with an insulated battery it won't. Lots of Smoktech haters trying to knock Smoktech mods with specious arguments and ridiculous scenarios. If you strip the plastic off a battery and put it in any metal tube mod with a melted hotspring it will still fire because the side of the battery is completing ground to the side of the metal tube. If the Panasonic is too wide to go into the mod, use a battery that is really 18mm in diameter that will fit.

Yeah, the dude is one FREAKING IDIOT!
 

jackbox

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Why the vids are removed now!!

Maybe because in the comments I stated the fact that the battery was making the connection on the side of the metal tube and not the melted hotspring and said do the same thing in a Provari or any metal tube mod and you will get the same result. Or Gotvapes got mad at him for knocking a product they are trying to sell and in his videos he likes to shout "I am a member of Gotvapes Alpha Team." Or people that know him and know how electrical connections are made told him he was making a fool of himself in his videos. Glad they are gone. Very ignorant and stupid reviews knocking a product for an incorrect hypothesis when he was just showing how ignorant he was of how electric current flows.
 

Aron Gatt

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Maybe because in the comments I stated the fact that the battery was making the connection on the side of the metal tube and not the melted hotspring and said do the same thing in a Provari or any metal tube mod and you will get the same result. Or Gotvapes got mad at him for knocking a product they are trying to sell and in his videos he likes to shout "I am a member of Gotvapes Alpha Team." Or people that know him and know how electrical connections are made told him he was making a fool of himself in his videos. Glad they are gone. Very ignorant and stupid reviews knocking a product for an incorrect hypothesis when he was just showing how ignorant he was of how electric current flows.

it has to be that..i cant see no other reson to take a vid of youtube .....and you know that i said that to my self ...ALPHA TEAM .. KNOCKING OF A PRODUCT THAT WAY WHEN THEY PROBOBLY HAVE A NICE STOCK OF IT....

STILL STUPID ME FOR ALMOST BELIEVED WHAT HE SHOWED THERE
 

jackbox

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it has to be that..i cant see no other reson to take a vid of youtube .....and you know that i said that to my self ...ALPHA TEAM .. KNOCKING OF A PRODUCT THAT WAY WHEN THEY PROBOBLY HAVE A NICE STOCK OF IT....

STILL STUPID ME FOR ALMOST BELIEVED WHAT HE SHOWED THERE

Just remember you cannot believe everything you see on the internet. Just because a guy makes a video in his bedroom at home doesn't make him an expert. I saw a study somewhere that said over 70% of the "facts" espoused on the internet are just plain wrong.
 

Morandir835

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Wanted to retouch on the 18650 technical data from an earlier post- This unit isn't as spikey so to say as the vmax, but still the voltage through the pwm still bounces around pretty heavily. Accuracy again isn't the strong suit for the zmax. In voltage mode 3.0v is actually closer to 3.31v on avg, better than the vmax (3.53v or so), but still not 3.0v. Every voltage was off in one way or another, won't post every voltage and what it was unless someone asks, but will go with some main ones- 3.2v- 3.41v on avg, 3.7v- 3.66v on avg, 4.2v- 4.33v on avg, 5.0v- 5.28v on avg, 6.0v- 6.11v on avg. Even with the single battery saw spikes as high as 7.7v on the scope when testing. As for amperage limits in voltage mode, 4.52a was the highest I could push it before getting a lor or wsc error. That's still roughly .3a higher than I could push my vamx (4.19a max), and a full amp higher than the provari. In the output aspect of vv mods, the zmax is the best performer thus far. In wattage mode things were just as off. For one it's not .1w increments as said on CCV, Electronicnicstix, etc. it's .5w on my unit. Not a big deal to me, because I prefer the voltage settings to the wattage (just personal taste). At 3 watts with was getting 2.93w on avg with a 2.5ohm atty (2.71v, 2.5ohm, 1.08a). At 6w same atty was getting 5.89w on avg (3.84v, 2.5ohms, 1.536a). 9w again with that 2.5ohm atty was 9.17w on avg (4.79v, 2.5ohms, 1.916a), 12w was 12.14w on avg (5.51v, 2.5ohms, 2.24a), 15w was 15.37w on avg (6.2v, 2.5ohms, 2.48a). Within tolerances but again quite a few spikes on the voltage under 9w testing saw a spike of 8.1v. Again accuracy isn't the killer aspect of this device.

The voltage/wattage droop when the battery is low isn't nearly as bad as with the vmax, but still there. Right around 3.45v on a single 18650 batt started seeing the voltage be .1-.3v on average lower at the same settings as when the batts was 3.5v or above.

Stacked 18350 tech data- When using the stacked batteries in the Zmax it truly behaves more like it's older brother the vmax. 3.0v was 3.61v on avg. (.8v higher than the vmax tested), 3.7v was 4.11v on avg., 4.2v was 4.92v on avg., 5v was 5.53v on avg., 6.0v was 6.58v on avg. The voltage spikes were even worse than with the single 18650 batt. Wattage was much the same- 3w was 3.87w on avg (3.05v, 1.27a, 2.4ohms), 6w was 7.03w on avg. (4.11v, 1.71a, 2.4ohms), 9w was 9.68w on avg. (4.82v, 2.01a, 2.4ohms), 12w was 12.83w on avg. (5.55v, 2.31a, 2.4ohms), and 15w was 16.12w on avg (6.22v, 2.59a, 2.4ohms). With running two batts throw the accuracy out the window.

Voltage/wattage droop was much like the vmax again, by the time the batts reach 6.9v combined total the voltages are down by -.4-.7v on average from their earlier numbers, and at 6.8v combined seen voltages as high as -.27v off from the voltage setting itself.

So if you prefer accuracy in this device and battery life go with an 18650 high drain (aw, panasonic hybrid, or efest. Find the one that fits best in this device is the aw 1600mah or the efest 1500mah. If you're going with one of the 2000mah+ high drains go with a flat top to put less pressure on the contact pin). If you want pure power go with the 18350's in a stacked form with extension cap (again prefer a flat top and a nipple top combo, flat on top nipple on bottom. This way no chance of the magnet slipping for any reason and causing a potential problem (not to mention possible losing of said magnet when changing batts), and makes it so the least amount of pressure possible is put on the contact pin in the unit).
 

jackbox

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@Morandir835 - Thank you for that information. When I get mine next week (shipped out on Thursday) I will run it with an 18650 IMR battery only and not bother buying the extension cap.

BTW, your avatar scares the heck out of me. Was that your intention? Are you the vaping Prince of Darkness?
 
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VAPNJ350

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Measure your Mesh 5/8 in.(Width) and 1 3/8 in.(Length)! Before you roll your wick Oxidize it 8 times on each side, then you are going to fold in one side about 1/16 in. on length and from the Top, thus rolling your wick towards the folded part(USE a LARGE Paper Clip to roll your wick) and then you are going to Oxidize your wick again 10-12 times! YOU SHOULD NOT have NO PROBLEMS with your juice wicking! ALWAYS REMEMBER this, MAKE SURE YOUR AIR HOLE is LINED UP with your WICK which EQUALS MAXIMUM VAPOR PRODUCTION! :)


Actually Freddie a paperclip is the last thing I would use. With most Genatty's the wick hole is somewhat small. With the DiD and even the knock off DiD/DuD, the wick holes are much larger in comparison. I actually own a DiD. If I made the mesh small in diameter, inner and outer, I would get little to no wicking. Per the diameter of the hole hole you want the biggest diameter wick the hole will allow. Example: Store bought tiny straw or huge McDonalds special. You want the latter. You want the largest Inside diameter you can get for optimal wicking. Use a drill bit or something along those lines to roll your wick. Also you don't want the outside diameter to rub or scrape the walls of your wick hole when you push it into it, that will compromise the oxidation and lead to shorts. You want about 1mm of loose play when you put the wick down in the hole, that keeps the I.D and O.D. as big as possible. Jim, the creator of the DiD, actually made a video showing how to make the wick pretty well and he uses the allen key/wrench that he sends with the DiD, If I'm not mistaken it's a 3mm allen key, it makes a nice big open wick that wicks better than most Genatty's out there. That's 1 of the main reason's the DiD was mush better than most of the other way overpriced Genatty's...well that and how simple they are to build and setup. I posted a perfect process on oxidizing wick just for the DiD a few pages back. Just remember...bigger inside diameter in your wick keeps wicking effortless.

Theirs also a DiD thread that has some great people on it that can answer any question you have with all the perfect stepsto get the most out of your DiD or DuD in your case....just don't tell them it's the Knockoff....they might get a bit fiesty,lol.
 

Morandir835

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No problem Jackbox sir. :)

To answer you BTW, yes and no... The avatar is of Ihsahn (from the Anthems to the Welkin at Dusk days of Emperor), usually switch between him and King Diamond. Was one of a good friend of mine's favorite avatars, so after his guess you would call it dismissal from ecf, put it up in tribute of him. :)
 

VAPNJ350

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Wanted to retouch on the 18650 technical data from an earlier post- This unit isn't as spikey so to say as the vmax, but still the voltage through the pwm still bounces around pretty heavily. Accuracy again isn't the strong suit for the zmax. In voltage mode 3.0v is actually closer to 3.31v on avg, better than the vmax (3.53v or so), but still not 3.0v. Every voltage was off in one way or another, won't post every voltage and what it was unless someone asks, but will go with some main ones- 3.2v- 3.41v on avg, 3.7v- 3.66v on avg, 4.2v- 4.33v on avg, 5.0v- 5.28v on avg, 6.0v- 6.11v on avg. Even with the single battery saw spikes as high as 7.7v on the scope when testing. As for amperage limits in voltage mode, 4.52a was the highest I could push it before getting a lor or wsc error. That's still roughly .3a higher than I could push my vamx (4.19a max), and a full amp higher than the provari. In the output aspect of vv mods, the zmax is the best performer thus far. In wattage mode things were just as off. For one it's not .1w increments as said on CCV, Electronicnicstix, etc. it's .5w on my unit. Not a big deal to me, because I prefer the voltage settings to the wattage (just personal taste). At 3 watts with was getting 2.93w on avg with a 2.5ohm atty (2.71v, 2.5ohm, 1.08a). At 6w same atty was getting 5.89w on avg (3.84v, 2.5ohms, 1.536a). 9w again with that 2.5ohm atty was 9.17w on avg (4.79v, 2.5ohms, 1.916a), 12w was 12.14w on avg (5.51v, 2.5ohms, 2.24a), 15w was 15.37w on avg (6.2v, 2.5ohms, 2.48a). Within tolerances but again quite a few spikes on the voltage under 9w testing saw a spike of 8.1v. Again accuracy isn't the killer aspect of this device.

The voltage/wattage droop when the battery is low isn't nearly as bad as with the vmax, but still there. Right around 3.45v on a single 18650 batt started seeing the voltage be .1-.3v on average lower at the same settings as when the batts was 3.5v or above.

Stacked 18350 tech data- When using the stacked batteries in the Zmax it truly behaves more like it's older brother the vmax. 3.0v was 3.61v on avg. (.8v higher than the vmax tested), 3.7v was 4.11v on avg., 4.2v was 4.92v on avg., 5v was 5.53v on avg., 6.0v was 6.58v on avg. The voltage spikes were even worse than with the single 18650 batt. Wattage was much the same- 3w was 3.87w on avg (3.05v, 1.27a, 2.4ohms), 6w was 7.03w on avg. (4.11v, 1.71a, 2.4ohms), 9w was 9.68w on avg. (4.82v, 2.01a, 2.4ohms), 12w was 12.83w on avg. (5.55v, 2.31a, 2.4ohms), and 15w was 16.12w on avg (6.22v, 2.59a, 2.4ohms). With running two batts throw the accuracy out the window.

Voltage/wattage droop was much like the vmax again, by the time the batts reach 6.9v combined total the voltages are down by -.4-.7v on average from their earlier numbers, and at 6.8v combined seen voltages as high as -.27v off from the voltage setting itself.

So if you prefer accuracy in this device and battery life go with an 18650 high drain (aw, panasonic hybrid, or efest. Find the one that fits best in this device is the aw 1600mah or the efest 1500mah. If you're going with one of the 2000mah+ high drains go with a flat top to put less pressure on the contact pin). If you want pure power go with the 18350's in a stacked form with extension cap (again prefer a flat top and a nipple top combo, flat on top nipple on bottom. This way no chance of the magnet slipping for any reason and causing a potential problem (not to mention possible losing of said magnet when changing batts), and makes it so the least amount of pressure possible is put on the contact pin in the unit).





Are you still posting the Vavg numbers ? Which is absolutely incorrect data. Just curious. It's already been shown and proven by the ecd meter that the Vmax is running a full 1 volt higher than the output setting. In order to get the ""TRUE"" voltage output you must do the Vrms claculation (not reading the Vrms off your scope screen). Are you and Electrical Engineer or have any electronics background with chipsets? I'm curious.

Also CCV does advertise in VW mode it's .5 incriments, NOT .1 as you earlier stated.
 
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