Somoene please help! A million questions about coils before I build!

[Imfallen_Angel]

Man you should really blog this, very helpful, thanks!

@Imfallen_Angel Right? See fallen (sorry, not sure which one to call you, but I liked fallen) SEE?!

Honestly, I was just driving home, thinking about random things and realized one other thing. Your posts are very intelligently and well written.

Well thanks, I just try to assist best I can...

For the wick thing, yeah, I know that you were joking but it's still a valid point.

As per my previous posts about wicking, here's what I can offer as some guidance.

To measure how much, try to go for a thickness that would be about the same size as the outside diameter to the coil while being as fluffy as possible. The goal is that you want it to fill the coil well so that once it expands once wet (as cotton swells up a bit) so that you do not have gaps, but you don't want to sticking out through the wraps. You want to get it to be in contact with the coil for the full length.

One thing I consider a mistake that I see on many videos is that the person pulls the wick down at the ends, creating such a gap and can cause the legs and tips of the coils to be warmer as they aren't cooled by the flowing liquid through the wick.

My technique consist of taking the amount (thickness), working it with the tip of my fingers to stretch it out, evening out the fibers, similar to hand rolling a cigarette and rolling the paper. I then give the whole length a twist so that it's slightly compressed and squeeze the tip to have the needle/threading thing going.... I keep twisting as I insert it through, measure how much I need, cut and continue and thread the second coil. The amount of wick, if correct, should be firm, but should fit well, aka it you tug on it and it was to rip/break off, then it's too much, if it just slides out really easily, then not enough. It needs to be able to slide out but with some fair amount of resistance (once untwisted).

Once the cotton is threaded, I untwist and work it slightly until I can see that it's firm against the inner wall of the coil.

For the length.... this completely depends on your deck. You need to judge how long you need for it to make it to the feed holes then add a bit.

The extra should be used as your "reserve" on the ends of the coil by having a bit of it going upward a tiny bit before going down towards the feed holes. This also acts as a "padding" to have between the coil and the walls of the bell.

Note: the wick needs to be such that you do not block the airflow whatsoever.

At the feed holes, you can trim the edges so that your wick is clean and straight, with a bit of an angle cut if needed.. your wick can be "cone shaped" (trimmed to be a bit pointy) at the tips if your deck so requires it. Your goal is you want to fill the feed hole, so that all liquid present will get "sucked in" by the wick's tip and none passes by it (leak out). But you don't want to clog it, so while "full", the feed isn't blocked off.

While this is one of my RDAs, the principle is the same:
View media item 430319You can see that the wick is full (inside the coil) and the ends (while not as high as I'd do with my RTAs) are also full and straight out and don't go down until away from the coil. (and this is even after a few months, it doesn't go down, it stays "firm" in position)

Hope this helps a bit... wicking can be a bit of a challenge at first.

 

[drainbamage8]

Well thanks, I just try to assist best I can...

For the wick thing, yeah, I know that you were joking but it's still a valid point.

As per my previous posts about wicking, here's what I can offer as some guidance.

To measure how much, try to go for a thickness that would be about the same size as the outside diameter to the coil while being as fluffy as possible. The goal is that you want it to fill the coil well so that once it expands once wet (as cotton swells up a bit) so that you do not have gaps, but you don't want to sticking out through the wraps. You want to get it to be in contact with the coil for the full length.

One thing I consider a mistake that I see on many videos is that the person pulls the wick down at the ends, creating such a gap and can cause the legs and tips of the coils to be warmer as they aren't cooled by the flowing liquid through the wick.

My technique consist of taking the amount (thickness), working it with the tip of my fingers to stretch it out, evening out the fibers, similar to hand rolling a cigarette and rolling the paper. I then give the whole length a twist so that it's slightly compressed and squeeze the tip to have the needle/threading thing going.... I keep twisting as I insert it through, measure how much I need, cut and continue and thread the second coil. The amount of wick, if correct, should be firm, but should fit well, aka it you tug on it and it was to rip/break off, then it's too much, if it just slides out really easily, then not enough. It needs to be able to slide out but with some fair amount of resistance (once untwisted).

Once the cotton is threaded, I untwist and work it slightly until I can see that it's firm against the inner wall of the coil.

For the length.... this completely depends on your deck. You need to judge how long you need for it to make it to the feed holes then add a bit.

The extra should be used as your "reserve" on the ends of the coil by having a bit of it going upward a tiny bit before going down towards the feed holes. This also acts as a "padding" to have between the coil and the walls of the bell.

Note: the wick needs to be such that you do not block the airflow whatsoever.

At the feed holes, you can trim the edges so that your wick is clean and straight, with a bit of an angle cut if needed.. your wick can be "cone shaped" (trimmed to be a bit pointy) at the tips if your deck so requires it. Your goal is you want to fill the feed hole, so that all liquid present will get "sucked in" by the wick's tip and none passes by it (leak out). But you don't want to clog it, so while "full", the feed isn't blocked off.

While this is one of my RDAs, the principle is the same:
View media item 430319You can see that the wick is full (inside the coil) and the ends (while not as high as I'd do with my RTAs) are also full and straight out and don't go down until away from the coil. (and this is even after a few months, it doesn't go down, it stays "firm" in position)

Hope this helps a bit... wicking can be a bit of a challenge at first.

Lol, I knew you were going to do that!

I'm going to have to copy all of this and print out but also stick it somewhere because your posts are so well thought out and concise and easy to understand. Seriously fallen, very well done and helpful, and I really enjoy reading your writing So now I will be telling you that you didn't tell me how to do something just so I can read more from you. Your posts are.... just great. You didn't tell me about... something! So tell me about it, I need to know!
Thank you so much fallen. I am serious, I really enjoy reading your posts, so anything else you might think i might even want to know, tell me!

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Lol, I knew you were going to do that!

I'm going to have to copy all of this and print out but also stick it somewhere because your posts are so well thought out and concise and easy to understand. Seriously fallen, very well done and helpful, and I really enjoy reading your writing So now I will be telling you that you didn't tell me how to do something just so I can read more from you. Your posts are.... just great. You didn't tell me about... something! So tell me about it, I need to know!
Thank you so much fallen. I am serious, I really enjoy reading your posts, so anything else you might think i might even want to know, tell me!

hmm...let's see...words of wisdom, words of wisdom...

Always start at low wattage settings and increase as needed.

Batteries are to be very respected, if the wrap or the top insulating ring are damaged, stop using the battery and fix it. That insulation ring is all that protect that itsy bitsy insulation between the positive and negative section (about 1mm between the two). You don't want to ever see a lithium battery short. Also, buy real brand batteries (Samsung, LG, Sony, Panasonic) and make sure that you're getting the real deal and that they are high drain type. Anything else (any brand with Fire in it's name or such) are rewrapped second and third rate (the batteries that failed the quality control of the manufacturers, but still usable for flashlights and such).

Don't spit against the wind.

Sub-ohm vaping increases the quality of liquid vaporize, and increases the nicotine intake, so one needs to reduce the mg in the liquid, up to 1/2 compared to the sup-ohm.

The higher the wattage, the more battery power needed, once in sub-ohm, it's probably a question of time before you end up with a lot of spare battery for your single mod, and so start looking at dual batteries mods.

You don't have to aim for the lowest ohm range, go from 0.2ohm and up and you'll be golden. With a regulated mod, the ohm range just needs to be within a safe range and you just adjust your wattage (and temp if you use TC) accordingly. My coils can range from 0.2 to close to a full 1ohm and I've yet to have a bad coil or vaping experience from any of them.... I consider that having the most wire/wraps as possible that will fit comfortably on a deck is more important.

Popular doesn't mean quality, my kits are fairly disregarded by many because they aren't "hip" enough, yet are great as they work extremely well and have been solid (my favorite setups are mods: TC100W by Eleaf, and tanks: Wotofo Conqueror and OBS Crius).

Build your tool kit, the pre-made ones are lacking in some things, and good tools aren't that expensive. The tester is the most expensive part but well worth it.

Here's my list of recommended tools: (links are provided for examples only and are not to advertise Fasttech)

$8.77 Magic Stick CW 6-in-1 Wire Coiling Tool Kit - 1.5+2+2.5+3+3.5+4mm poles / blue at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Great set, has the "rare" 4mm jig tip

$2.76 Authentic Youde UD Wire Spool Tamer (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
You don't want to have wire unwinding

$29.00 Authentic PilotVape Atomizer Combo Tester (Ohm Meter + Volt Meter) - 0.01-9.99ohm / 0.3-9.99V / USB powered or battery powered at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Great tester, over a year with this guy, works great, the claws are very handing to check how much wire to use.

$6.49 Tweezers + Scissors Tools Kit for E-Cigarettes (2 Pieces) 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Excellent clippers and those tweezers are a must have. I have one pair of these tweezers that snapped in two on me and I now use the two pieces as my "tips/picks" to work the cotton, and it works just great.

$2.86 6 Pieces Metric Precision Screwdriver Kit - w/ case at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
A basic good quality precision/jewelry screwdriver set is a must, but both the screwdriver bit, but the length and size of the necks.

$17.83 HUIJIAQI No.8921 53-in-1 Precision Screwdriver Tools Set - Cr-V steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Once you see how crappy those tiny screwdrivers they give with RTA/RDAs are, you'll want a proper hex and/or torx screwdriver.

$3.63 Authentic AOTU AT7587 Outdoor Multifunctional Folding Pliers - w/ LED light / 1*AG11 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Small pliers.. I've been using this type for almost 20 years (always one in my pocket, which I end up using almost every day) and they have been perfect. Anything similar, small, and the tips need the grooves as it helps grab and turn the wires better than flat tips. These look pretty close.. might have to get myself one: $6.54 Multi-functional Foldable EDC Wire Cutter Pliers - scissors/mini knife/bottle opener/slotted screwdrivers/philips screwdriver/nail file/can opener/nipper pliers at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They don't need to be folding multi-tool type, but I find their small handle size to be very comfortable in hand.

And lastly, I use those blue paper towels (from the car section - "Blue shop"). Much sturdier than regular paper towels, a lot less paper particles/dust flying around getting into things, plus a folded sheet is great as a mat to work on. (these types: Scott Multi Purpose Shop Towels for Hands and Cleanup Jobs, Pack of 10 Rolls: Shop Air Cleaners: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific)


So that's what I can think of at this point.... ask away if there's anything else you have questions about.

 

[drainbamage8]

hmm...let's see...words of wisdom, words of wisdom...

Always start at low wattage settings and increase as needed.

Batteries are to be very respected, if the wrap or the top insulating ring are damaged, stop using the battery and fix it. That insulation ring is all that protect that itsy bitsy insulation between the positive and negative section (about 1mm between the two). You don't want to ever see a lithium battery short. Also, buy real brand batteries (Samsung, LG, Sony, Panasonic) and make sure that you're getting the real deal and that they are high drain type. Anything else (any brand with Fire in it's name or such) are rewrapped second and third rate (the batteries that failed the quality control of the manufacturers, but still usable for flashlights and such).

Don't spit against the wind.

Sub-ohm vaping increases the quality of liquid vaporize, and increases the nicotine intake, so one needs to reduce the mg in the liquid, up to 1/2 compared to the sup-ohm.

The higher the wattage, the more battery power needed, once in sub-ohm, it's probably a question of time before you end up with a lot of spare battery for your single mod, and so start looking at dual batteries mods.

You don't have to aim for the lowest ohm range, go from 0.2ohm and up and you'll be golden. With a regulated mod, the ohm range just needs to be within a safe range and you just adjust your wattage (and temp if you use TC) accordingly. My coils can range from 0.2 to close to a full 1ohm and I've yet to have a bad coil or vaping experience from any of them.... I consider that having the most wire/wraps as possible that will fit comfortably on a deck is more important.

Popular doesn't mean quality, my kits are fairly disregarded by many because they aren't "hip" enough, yet are great as they work extremely well and have been solid (my favorite setups are mods: TC100W by Eleaf, and tanks: Wotofo Conqueror and OBS Crius).

Build your tool kit, the pre-made ones are lacking in some things, and good tools aren't that expensive. The tester is the most expensive part but well worth it.

Here's my list of recommended tools: (links are provided for examples only and are not to advertise Fasttech)

$8.77 Magic Stick CW 6-in-1 Wire Coiling Tool Kit - 1.5+2+2.5+3+3.5+4mm poles / blue at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Great set, has the "rare" 4mm jig tip

$2.76 Authentic Youde UD Wire Spool Tamer (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
You don't want to have wire unwinding

$29.00 Authentic PilotVape Atomizer Combo Tester (Ohm Meter + Volt Meter) - 0.01-9.99ohm / 0.3-9.99V / USB powered or battery powered at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Great tester, over a year with this guy, works great, the claws are very handing to check how much wire to use.

$6.49 Tweezers + Scissors Tools Kit for E-Cigarettes (2 Pieces) 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Excellent clippers and those tweezers are a must have. I have one pair of these tweezers that snapped in two on me and I now use the two pieces as my "tips/picks" to work the cotton, and it works just great.

$2.86 6 Pieces Metric Precision Screwdriver Kit - w/ case at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
A basic good quality precision/jewelry screwdriver set is a must, but both the screwdriver bit, but the length and size of the necks.

$17.83 HUIJIAQI No.8921 53-in-1 Precision Screwdriver Tools Set - Cr-V steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Once you see how crappy those tiny screwdrivers they give with RTA/RDAs are, you'll want a proper hex and/or torx screwdriver.

$3.63 Authentic AOTU AT7587 Outdoor Multifunctional Folding Pliers - w/ LED light / 1*AG11 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Small pliers.. I've been using this type for almost 20 years (always one in my pocket, which I end up using almost every day) and they have been perfect. Anything similar, small, and the tips need the grooves as it helps grab and turn the wires better than flat tips. These look pretty close.. might have to get myself one: $6.54 Multi-functional Foldable EDC Wire Cutter Pliers - scissors/mini knife/bottle opener/slotted screwdrivers/philips screwdriver/nail file/can opener/nipper pliers at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They don't need to be folding multi-tool type, but I find their small handle size to be very comfortable in hand.

And lastly, I use those blue paper towels (from the car section - "Blue shop"). Much sturdier than regular paper towels, a lot less paper particles/dust flying around getting into things, plus a folded sheet is great as a mat to work on. (these types: Scott Multi Purpose Shop Towels for Hands and Cleanup Jobs, Pack of 10 Rolls: Shop Air Cleaners: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific)


So that's what I can think of at this point.... ask away if there's anything else you have questions about.

I am sitting here smiling and then giggling!

I was going to ask what was in your kit, but, of course ,you being you, had already taken the time to not only post it, but post links. You are awesome.

Fortunately and unfortunately my istick has a preinstalled battery. My last istick40, the battery died, and not replaceable, or it is if you know how, which I don't, so had to buy another. I had already decided my next one was going to use replaceable batteries. And, yes, I only have ONE mod, if it breaks, I am screwed lol. But it's taken all of the times I've dropped it very well!

Thank you, also, for the istick100 recommendation. It's one I was looking at/ considering.

Thoughts on the theory of relativity? The Haldron collider, how the universe can expand into nothing?

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I am sitting here smiling and then giggling!

I was going to ask what was in your kit, but, of course ,you being you, had already taken the time to not only post it, but post links. You are awesome.

Fortunately and unfortunately my istick has a preinstalled battery. My last istick40, the battery died, and not replaceable, or it is if you know how, which I don't, so had to buy another. I had already decided my next one was going to use replaceable batteries. And, yes, I only have ONE mod, if it breaks, I am screwed lol. But it's taken all of the times I've dropped it very well!

Thank you, also, for the istick100 recommendation. It's one I was looking at/ considering.

Thoughts on the theory of relativity? The Haldron collider, how the universe can expand into nothing?

When the first regulated mods came out, most were sealed batteries type... I still have a few from ..hmm.. 4 years ago that I use with my RDAs, but at 40W, they are very limited (and don't do TC). After a few others died and ended up being paperweights, while the mod was fine, I would have had to dismantle, find a replacement battery, etc. to bring it back and it was just not worth it. So since, it's replaceable battery mods (heck, just about all my device need to be such) only.

For the TC100W, the beauty if it is: dual parallel (a rarity as most are series) which alloys it to work with just one battery should you lose one, the AMP is shared, so less strain on the batteries (they last me all day running at 45-50W), the squeeze trigger is solid, comfortable. The controls are simpler than most as it's get that extra selection button instead of having to multi-click the trigger. It's also a very ergonomic mod, fits in pockets, and between my wife and daughter that have a couple of them too, it's a solid mod, as they've dropped them way too many times (sadly, the paint has suffered for it). I have three of them myself and even after over a year, they are all almost mint shape.. just the edges that have a tiny bit of scuffing, which is unavoidable with time. The mod is firmware updateable (and goes to 120W, with other options depending on the firmware you put on it). The only thing to watch for is the magnet doors (another pro for me) is that the magnet can come out, but a dab of glue or such and it's all good (just make sure that you do NOT inverse the magnets.. they'll push away instead in towards..hehehe.. and they are a pain to take out to flip should you insert them wrong). And lastly, it's insanely cheap on Fasttech, heck I just bough another just a few days ago.. I fear that they'll be discontinued and I've yet to find a single mod that even come close to it even with all the new ones we've had in the last 6 months.

Remember that your mod is the core of your kit, so it's worth

One item not mention yet will be charging the batteries should you go forward with getting a mod with 18650s. Nitecore "D" chargers are quite good, and I've just seen good words about the Efest ones...

About charging via the mod, as long as the mod is a decent one, there is absolutely nothing to worry about to charge directly with your mod (because a lot of people on here do not understand charging circuits and have no trust in mod manufacturers... aka, it's a long story)...

If you'd like some great cables, some like these ones are fantastic: LED Visible Flow Light Micro USB Data Sync Charger Cable for Samsung iPhone CA

They show you that they are charging, how fast, and shuts down when full.

Anyways...

Relativity, I go with: some people act like their parents and grandparents are related, I try to stay away from those.

The Haldron collider is a great way to make soup really fast, and by soup, I mean the planet should someone goes "opps" with that thing.

How the universe can expand into nothing? Heck, many speak with nothing, of nothing, about nothing yet think there's something, so why should the universe be different..

 

[drainbamage8]

When the first regulated mods came out, most were sealed batteries type... I still have a few from ..hmm.. 4 years ago that I use with my RDAs, but at 40W, they are very limited (and don't do TC). After a few others died and ended up being paperweights, while the mod was fine, I would have had to dismantle, find a replacement battery, etc. to bring it back and it was just not worth it. So since, it's replaceable battery mods (heck, just about all my device need to be such) only.

For the TC100W, the beauty if it is: dual parallel (a rarity as most are series) which alloys it to work with just one battery should you lose one, the AMP is shared, so less strain on the batteries (they last me all day running at 45-50W), the squeeze trigger is solid, comfortable. The controls are simpler than most as it's get that extra selection button instead of having to multi-click the trigger. It's also a very ergonomic mod, fits in pockets, and between my wife and daughter that have a couple of them too, it's a solid mod, as they've dropped them way too many times (sadly, the paint has suffered for it). I have three of them myself and even after over a year, they are all almost mint shape.. just the edges that have a tiny bit of scuffing, which is unavoidable with time. The mod is firmware updateable (and goes to 120W, with other options depending on the firmware you put on it). The only thing to watch for is the magnet doors (another pro for me) is that the magnet can come out, but a dab of glue or such and it's all good (just make sure that you do NOT inverse the magnets.. they'll push away instead in towards..hehehe.. and they are a pain to take out to flip should you insert them wrong). And lastly, it's insanely cheap on Fasttech, heck I just bough another just a few days ago.. I fear that they'll be discontinued and I've yet to find a single mod that even come close to it even with all the new ones we've had in the last 6 months.

Remember that your mod is the core of your kit, so it's worth

One item not mention yet will be charging the batteries should you go forward with getting a mod with 18650s. Nitecore "D" chargers are quite good, and I've just seen good words about the Efest ones...

About charging via the mod, as long as the mod is a decent one, there is absolutely nothing to worry about to charge directly with your mod (because a lot of people on here do not understand charging circuits and have no trust in mod manufacturers... aka, it's a long story)...

If you'd like some great cables, some like these ones are fantastic: LED Visible Flow Light Micro USB Data Sync Charger Cable for Samsung iPhone CA

They show you that they are charging, how fast, and shuts down when full.

Anyways...

Relativity, I go with: some people act like their parents and grandparents are related, I try to stay away from those.

The Haldron collider is a great way to make soup really fast, and by soup, I mean the planet should someone goes "opps" with that thing.

How the universe can expand into nothing? Heck, many speak with nothing, of nothing, about nothing yet think there's something, so why should the universe be different..

Yeah, well, I'm not going to say. who am I kidding, thank you again fallen. I have seen those nitecore D chargers, so I will remeber that. Thank you also for the link to the cables.And everything else!

Hey, were you talking about me with that last comment?!?!

Ooh, I have a tip! Don't ever eer try and read War and Peace for fun. Trust me.

Nope, 5am is too early to think of any more questions, so you just pick somehing interesting!

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Yeah, well, I'm not going to say. who am I kidding, thank you again fallen. I have seen those nitecore D chargers, so I will remeber that. Thank you also for the link to the cables.And everything else!

Hey, were you talking about me with that last comment?!?!

Ooh, I have a tip! Don't ever eer try and read War and Peace for fun. Trust me.

Nope, 5am is too early to think of any more questions, so you just pick somehing interesting!

First: Absolutely not...

You want a book that really pops your brain... "House of leaves" by Mark Z. Danielewski. Probably the most incredible book I've ever read... not just the story(ies) (which is excellent), but it's the book itself, you have to kinda get into it and see how it'd done to understand what I mean, as only the physical book has the "power" it's got... they can't even make it a movie as there's no way to replicate the effect, no way any movie could be make "right".

Last book I've read and haven't been able to read anything since, it made every other book feel like "simpletons". hmm.. maybe you shouldn't.


Back to vape stuff... how about drippers? I remember you mentioning that you DIY. Don't you do tests? You need to try a decent dripper.

Personally, I fell in love with glass tops..
View media item 430317

 

[Carl2]

An interesting discussion and since I'm into the same things, DIY , RBA tanks and coil making I read through the posts. At this time I'm putting a SS coil into a Vaperesso Gemni RBA, I usually use nickel 200 but I was able to find some thin Clapton SS wire that would fit into the 22 mm tank. It's actually to thin so I twisted it to get the right resistance value and then wound the coil. It's probably a good time to mention that if using temp the coil has to fit between an upper limit and lower limit or it won't work in temp mode but works in wattage mode.
Since I've had a hard time with wicking I'll mention that I'd just found some cotton that got rid of that problem. Cotton made for wicking that I bought caused popping like explosions, cotton yarn reduced the noise but a more expensive cotton was able to give me good results.

 

[drainbamage8]

An interesting discussion and since I'm into the same things, DIY , RBA tanks and coil making I read through the posts. At this time I'm putting a SS coil into a Vaperesso Gemni RBA, I usually use nickel 200 but I was able to find some thin Clapton SS wire that would fit into the 22 mm tank. It's actually to thin so I twisted it to get the right resistance value and then wound the coil. It's probably a good time to mention that if using temp the coil has to fit between an upper limit and lower limit or it won't work in temp mode but works in wattage mode.
Since I've had a hard time with wicking I'll mention that I'd just found some cotton that got rid of that problem. Cotton made for wicking that I bought caused popping like explosions, cotton yarn reduced the noise but a more expensive cotton was able to give me good results.

I'm surprised anyone made it through anything after the first page lol, as sometimes I have a tendency to sometimes go OT in my own thread, but I'm glad you did! Fallen, well, he has some awesome, awesome information, as does Eskie on the other post that's exactly this one, except I made 2 of them for fun, to confuse myself.

What cotton do you use now?

 

[drainbamage8]

First: Absolutely not...

You want a book that really pops your brain... "House of leaves" by Mark Z. Danielewski. Probably the most incredible book I've ever read... not just the story(ies) (which is excellent), but it's the book itself, you have to kinda get into it and see how it'd done to understand what I mean, as only the physical book has the "power" it's got... they can't even make it a movie as there's no way to replicate the effect, no way any movie could be make "right".

Last book I've read and haven't been able to read anything since, it made every other book feel like "simpletons". hmm.. maybe you shouldn't.


Back to vape stuff... how about drippers? I remember you mentioning that you DIY. Don't you do tests? You need to try a decent dripper.

Personally, I fell in love with glass tops..
View media item 430317

Ok, I love reading, I mean I LOVE it, have ever since I can remember being able to read and I would like to continue to enjoy it! But, now I feel like I have to read it! I prefer actual books anyways. I'll read ebooks sometimes, but I love real books. I actually just bought 3 books on Thursday! 2 original Sherlock Holmes books for my daughter, who was super excited, but we will see if she can actually get through them (she loves reading too, thankfully), and the last book in the Dark Tower series. My poor bookcase has double rows of books on it already, with books stacked on top of those and I'm running out of room! I need my own library. I will pretty much read anything, and had bought W&P at.. probably a garage sale at some point, and decided I was going to read it. Yeah, ok, so I'm a fast reader, usually 'normal' size books (probably 500 pages or so) will take me 4-6 hours to read. Actually, the last Harry potter book, that thing is pretty big, took me 6 hours to read. W&P took me weeks. Like 3 weeks. It was horrible. But I started it, I had to finish! And I honestly could not tell you anything about it now. Other than it is very hard and slow to read.

Ok, so back to on topic stuff! Yes I do DIY and yes, I test it by putting it in my tank and using it! No, I don't. It's actually why I started looking into RBAs in the first place. I decided I needed a dripper to test stuff on, so I was going to get an rda, and use my nautilus mini normally. Then I saw a squonker and I was like, OMG IT'S A TANK AND A DRIPPER!! See I hadn't even looked at any drippers at that point, I just wanted one, at some point. I was looking at DIY recipes when I saw the squonker thing (it's ok, you can laugh at me for calling it a squonker thing, I don't mind!) I knew nothing about anything other than with a dripper, I could change flavors as much as I wanted to. So, I looked the squonker thing and read some reviews and they weren't good, but started looking at other things, then came across a post by someone looking for an rta for flavor and I read that and looked at the aromamizer v2 and wanted that eventually, then, well, the rest is what led me here! So, wow, that's a long answer to a simple question lol, no I do not have one, but I definitely do want one.

Grr, work! Umm, so, fallen, you are going to have to think up another question I need the answer to cause I can't right now! GO!

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Ok, I love reading, I mean I LOVE it, have ever since I can remember being able to read and I would like to continue to enjoy it! But, now I feel like I have to read it! I prefer actual books anyways. I'll read ebooks sometimes, but I love real books. I actually just bought 3 books on Thursday! 2 original Sherlock Holmes books for my daughter, who was super excited, but we will see if she can actually get through them (she loves reading too, thankfully), and the last book in the Dark Tower series. My poor bookcase has double rows of books on it already, with books stacked on top of those and I'm running out of room! I need my own library. I will pretty much read anything, and had bought W&P at.. probably a garage sale at some point, and decided I was going to read it. Yeah, ok, so I'm a fast reader, usually 'normal' size books (probably 500 pages or so) will take me 4-6 hours to read. Actually, the last Harry potter book, that thing is pretty big, took me 6 hours to read. W&P took me weeks. Like 3 weeks. It was horrible. But I started it, I had to finish! And I honestly could not tell you anything about it now. Other than it is very hard and slow to read.

I grew up next to a library so while the other kids would goof around, I'd go read... In high school, I would overdo the max speed of the "speed reading test machine"...I could read a book in about 15 minutes, but now, many many years later, my brain is broken, I have trouble reading any sort of wall of text. Old age... sucks.

Ok, so back to on topic stuff! Yes I do DIY and yes, I test it by putting it in my tank and using it! No, I don't. It's actually why I started looking into RBAs in the first place. I decided I needed a dripper to test stuff on, so I was going to get an rda, and use my nautilus mini normally. Then I saw a squonker and I was like, OMG IT'S A TANK AND A DRIPPER!! See I hadn't even looked at any drippers at that point, I just wanted one, at some point. I was looking at DIY recipes when I saw the squonker thing (it's ok, you can laugh at me for calling it a squonker thing, I don't mind!) I knew nothing about anything other than with a dripper, I could change flavors as much as I wanted to. So, I looked the squonker thing and read some reviews and they weren't good, but started looking at other things, then came across a post by someone looking for an rta for flavor and I read that and looked at the aromamizer v2 and wanted that eventually, then, well, the rest is what led me here! So, wow, that's a long answer to a simple question lol, no I do not have one, but I definitely do want one.

Grr, work! Umm, so, fallen, you are going to have to think up another question I need the answer to cause I can't right now! GO!

Yeah, not really a fan of squonkers, some people love them, but for me, it's not something that's ever interested me... I would have though it would have died off with RDTAs but they picked up a bit lately.

Next question, hmmm.. how about a dedicated space to do all this? (I ended up buying a second desk and reorganizing my office for it.. no regrets though, it ended up making my office so much better for it, and everything gets put away easily.

 

[Carl2]

For cotton I now use Native Wicks, I just finished the dual Claptons in the Vaperesso tank and I'm using it on the Smok vaporizer, airflow is smooth as silk and no popping or noise from it at all. I always use a tobacco flavor, a lot I consider to be just tobacco but there are some favorites I really like. A salesman tried to talk me into a dripper but I like the tanks and stick with them.
When I was younger we lived in the country and I'd do a lot of reading, we had a set of encyclopedias I like to read.
Also a bible I'd try reading but that was more difficult, even today they are trying to figure out what he what he said.
Einstein, it is said very few people can understand what he said, I myself always wondered why he would spend time thinking about these strange things.

 

[drainbamage8]

I grew up next to a library so while the other kids would goof around, I'd go read... In high school, I would overdo the max speed of the "speed reading test machine"...I could read a book in about 15 minutes, but now, many many years later, my brain is broken, I have trouble reading any sort of wall of text. Old age... sucks.



Yeah, not really a fan of squonkers, some people love them, but for me, it's not something that's ever interested me... I would have though it would have died off with RDTAs but they picked up a bit lately.

Next question, hmmm.. how about a dedicated space to do all this? (I ended up buying a second desk and reorganizing my office for it.. no regrets though, it ended up making my office so much better for it, and everything gets put away easily.[

I mean, as much as I would like to, I don't have anywhere... my kitchen table, which only gets used to hold mail/ magazines/ fruit. I HAVEN'T THOUGHT THIS ALL THE WAY THROUGH YET OK?!? It was, as many things vaping seem to be with me, on a whim! Thursday I was like 'oh, I probably need something to keep all my stuff in', I don't actually HAVE anything yet, but I thought about it. Anyways, wasn't your job to tell me answers to questions I didn't ask yet?

Anyways, so I ordered from Master of CLouds on Thursday,at like noon or 1pm, and I ALREADY GOT MY STUFF! Super fast shipping! Now if I only had, you know, a tank to use it on, but now I am going to practice making coils! AND THEY WILL BE BEAUTIFUL!

 

[Carl2]

My work space is the kitchen table, I just cleaned it off about a week ago. I have a tray kind of thing I use to hold coiling tools plus boxes of wire, all the tanks and vap kits.
I did read some things I disagree with, Ni 200 is generally used with temp mode but it will also work in wattage mode. SS 316 will also work in both modes, not sure about Ti but I should thing it would be the same. Wattage will handle a large range of resistances but temp mode requires the resistances be within certain limits and I'm fairly the limits are set by the different makers of the vaporizers.
For flavor PG is said to carry the flavor, it is thinner and VG is said to produce the cloud of smoke, both begin vaporizing at about 350 F. SS Claptons are said to be the best coils for producing vapor and flavor. Dry cotton will just begin to discolor at 400 F and you can use that to see how accurate you temp readings are. The room temp resistance of your coil will determine how close the actual temp is to reading.
I use lighting vapes but have run to Master of clouds for resistance values.

 

[Katya]

I am sitting here smiling and then giggling!

Just remember that most of us old-timers started rebuilding with the help of a toothpick (or drill bit), nail clippers and a bag of organic cotton balls from a drugstore and we all lived.

Just don't torch anything, please! Torching is dangerous and completely unnecessary. Actually, it's contraindicated nowadays. Just a couple of gentle pulses to check your build is all it takes.

ETA: Start small. And don't start with TC builds--they can be tricky. Get a small spool of 28g Kanthal wire from Temco and maybe a coil gizmo that Fallen has recommended and some Japanese cotton (from FT). Learn how to make a good Kanthal coil, how to wick it properly, and take it from there.

Good luck!

Carry on!

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I did read some things I disagree with, Ni 200 is generally used with temp mode but it will also work in wattage mode. SS 316 will also work in both modes, not sure about Ti but I should thing it would be the same. Wattage will handle a large range of resistances but temp mode requires the resistances be within certain limits and I'm fairly the limits are set by the different makers of the vaporizers.
For flavor PG is said to carry the flavor, it is thinner and VG is said to produce the cloud of smoke, both begin vaporizing at about 350 F. SS Claptons are said to be the best coils for producing vapor and flavor. Dry cotton will just begin to discolor at 400 F and you can use that to see how accurate you temp readings are. The room temp resistance of your coil will determine how close the actual temp is to reading.
I use lighting vapes but have run to Master of clouds for resistance values.

Please tell me that this is your idea of April's fool....

NI and TI are dangerous for your health if overheated and not used properly, they MUST be used ONLY in temp. control... (TI being worse)

In TC, they're quite fine, but never ever use them in wattage mode and never dry burn them.. Should you ever get them red (dry burn), discard them right away, they will have oxidized and this oxide is a health hazard.

Wattage is the power given, it doesn't care about the resistance.. it's a question that if you apply too much power, you WILL burn the wick and could melt the coil.

Temp control has nothing to do with a resistance range, it is a metering of the changes in resistance of the metal when power is apply and it heats up.

Please, if you are "serious", you have to read up on these things... if you're joking, that isn't cool to do such statement where a newbie could believe this stuff, and a terrible "April's fool" to do.

That's like making people believe that iPhones can be charged in microwaves.. sure it's funny (because it's Apple stuff) and people did fall for it, but it could have resulted in injuries.

But saying something that could make someone end up with serious health issues, not cool.

 

[Katya]

Please tell me that this is your idea of April's fool....

Thanks. I didn't even know how to approach that post, so I left it alone...

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Just remember that most of us old-timers started rebuilding with the help of a toothpick (or drill bit), nail clippers and a bag of organic cotton balls from a drugstore and we all lived.

I started with a nail that I machined to soften the tip and a slit to slide the tip of the wire in (seen here), nail clippers, I already had a precision screwdriver set from over 30 years ago, and my pocket pliers. (Note that I did a guide on how to rebuild coils a while back, might be of interest just to show coils and steps needed: Vaperrasso cCell rebuilding)

Step4

• Imfallen_Angel
• Sep 27, 2016

Rolling the cotton onto the coil

I started right away with NI for TC and it's never been an issue nor hard to do. Just a spaced coil with enough mass (a decent amount of wraps) is all that's needed.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

For cotton, here's what I use with fine results (and many use these too).

Again, links are for references once.

Cotton Bacon V2:
$3.97 Authentic Wick 'N' Vape Cotton Bacon V2.0 for E-Cigarettes at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Almost 2 years with one pack and it's barely used, as I don't do the "let's grab 10 times what's actually needed" like I see in videos.

Organic Japanese Cotton pads
$9.14 Authentic Puff Rectangle Organic Cotton Wick for RDA RTA RBA Atomizers (200-Piece) 200-pack - 60*50mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I think that it will take me about 10 to 20 years to use all of it up, including the fact that I do the building for 4 people.

Another I have is called Strange wicks, which instead of cotton, is hemp fibers. This was given to me at a vape expo. It is excellent, BUT NOT easy to work with as you have to remove the "wooden bits", it looks like couch stuffing and needs to be worked and fibers aligned first, but once done right, it wicks very well and is more resistant to heat than cotton. Note that it doesn't swell up like cotton does once wet, so that needs to be taken in consideration.
Strange Wicks 100% Organic Hemp Wick


One type that I've head many claim being great is Cotton Candy
$14.32 The Cotton Candy Collection Single Organic Cotton for RBA Atomizers - authentic at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[drainbamage8]

For cotton, here's what I use with fine results (and many use these too).

Again, links are for references once.

Cotton Bacon V2:
$3.97 Authentic Wick 'N' Vape Cotton Bacon V2.0 for E-Cigarettes at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Almost 2 years with one pack and it's barely used, as I don't do the "let's grab 10 times what's actually needed" like I see in videos.

Organic Japanese Cotton pads
$9.14 Authentic Puff Rectangle Organic Cotton Wick for RDA RTA RBA Atomizers (200-Piece) 200-pack - 60*50mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I think that it will take me about 10 to 20 years to use all of it up, including the fact that I do the building for 4 people.

Another I have is called Strange wicks, which instead of cotton, is hemp fibers. This was given to me at a vape expo. It is excellent, BUT NOT easy to work with as you have to remove the "wooden bits", it looks like couch stuffing and needs to be worked and fibers aligned first, but once done right, it wicks very well and is more resistant to heat than cotton. Note that it doesn't swell up like cotton does once wet, so that needs to be taken in consideration.
Strange Wicks 100% Organic Hemp Wick


One type that I've head many claim being great is Cotton Candy
$14.32 The Cotton Candy Collection Single Organic Cotton for RBA Atomizers - authentic at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

So I would like to just point out that you have given me links to EVERYTHING except which glass rdas those are/ that you like!

Seriously though, thank you for everything, except for the 12th word in your 4th post. I didn't like that word. Only because I wanted to not like something of yours. So there!