You don't need a photo just imagine that when you twist open the jfc you are looking at solid stainless steel. If you unscrew the build deck a quarter turn you will then see the juice flow holes with cotton behind. I think you can picture that.
Spica Pro MTL clone by Coppervape
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There is one thing I wonder: I see on 3fvape that they are seeling the airflow pins seperately. Should it not be possible to just saw the upper head off of those, so you could have no restrictor in the air hole on the deck at all?
One poster earlier in this thread posted a picture of that. He said he did that to his original Spica Pro. That would certainly create airflow but it would do nothing to solve the miss-alignment of the juice flow holes in the deck. They just cut the threads a few mm too deep so when you screw the build deck in place it goes a bit too deep before it is tight.
I should again point out that my sample may have had the thread cut wrong and it was just bad luck. I have other rta's from Coppervape that are perfect so this sample of CV Spica Pro may just be a manufacturing defect. You may have better luck.
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That diagram is exactly what is happening to the one I just threw out. If you open the juice flow you are looking at solid metal not the juice holes in the build deck with cotton. That results in zero juice flow and obviously nothing but dry hits. They claim they have a fix for this in the future. What they really need to do is just cut the thread for the build deck so that they line up. You can loosen the build deck and they do line up but you can't use it that way. Anyway I threw mine in the garbage. Now I don't have to fret over it any more.
Oh no. I've sent them a PM on their facebook page, and an email.
Will see what she says. She's always been good to talk to...even calls me "dear"
.I don't think they'll like it much, if they're called out about it on their facebook page...
, but that's a last resort.I don't do Facebook. The only real question for them is how many units they shipped that had the same defects as the one I received. China does not do small runs so I bet it is a lot. I have no doubt they will eventually fix all this in a future run. Without me. Vaping is a hobby for me which is why I own so much gear. I don't need the aggravation for $25. Not worth the trouble. I vented for 24 hours over this and now its done, finished and moving on to the next great thing.Oh no. I've sent them a PM on their facebook page, and an email.
Will see what she says. She's always been good to talk to...even calls me "dear"
I don't think they'll like it much, if they're called out about it on their facebook page...
Yep I agree. I feel exactly the same. Just want to see how far I can take them, and what comes from it....
Yeah I saw that, but no comments yet on it. Only other languages talking about other stuff.
I feel like talking about it, but haven't got mine yet..
I feel like talking about it, but haven't got mine yet..
I am not on Facebook so I cannot see the furor over this rta, but it is obvious that I was not the only one who saw it as a problem. Their excuse is patently silly. Just cut the thread consistently to the right depth and the juice holes will line up. Perhaps that tolerance is too much to ask of a clone. I doubt that as I have some clones including some from Coppervape that are superb machining and more complicated. Look at their Rose V3. It is brilliant and far more complicated than this Spica to reproduce. Someone please answer that you do want larger air posts so that there is actually some airflow. That is of course if they also fix the juice flow.
Someone should go onto that facebook page and post photos so they can see. That way it can be talked about and who knows what can happen.
For now Coppervape is in the pound seats, because there is no evidence up against them. That's why they only post pictures to show how to operate the JFC...what they actually saying is, there is no problem...this is how to open and close it...
For now Coppervape is in the pound seats, because there is no evidence up against them. That's why they only post pictures to show how to operate the JFC...what they actually saying is, there is no problem...this is how to open and close it...
So I received mine two days ago, and i've let it lie, partly because I was a bit busy, and partly I got sort of apprehensive towards it....expecting a blocked JFC from it.
Well today I opened it and the first thing I inspected was exactly that. Mine isn't perfect either, but I have one hole on either side when fully opened. Still a bit apprehensive i threw a 1.0 ohm st st coil in it, and lit it up...
Man this thing is blowing me away. Its an awesome tank when it comes to throat hit, flavor and vapour production. Smoothest MTL draw...proper proper MTL, as it should be. I'm in heaven here. So So glad I bought this...!
I've had two fills through it so far and its wicking perfectly.
The only downers is the damn design of the top fill cap, and the mouth piece is a little small for me. I can get used to the mouth piece (sort of are already), but this cap is beyond belief...very stupid design
Ah well at least it takes a LOT of juice...!
Well today I opened it and the first thing I inspected was exactly that. Mine isn't perfect either, but I have one hole on either side when fully opened. Still a bit apprehensive i threw a 1.0 ohm st st coil in it, and lit it up...
Man this thing is blowing me away. Its an awesome tank when it comes to throat hit, flavor and vapour production. Smoothest MTL draw...proper proper MTL, as it should be. I'm in heaven here. So So glad I bought this...!
I've had two fills through it so far and its wicking perfectly.
The only downers is the damn design of the top fill cap, and the mouth piece is a little small for me. I can get used to the mouth piece (sort of are already), but this cap is beyond belief...very stupid design
Ah well at least it takes a LOT of juice...!Put a smaller o ring on that top cap and it will mostly solve that problem. At least you will be able to take off the top cap without using vise grips. That's what I did before I threw mine out. For the record I had zero juice holes showing so there must be some variation. Anyway, hope that helps with the top cap issue.So I received mine two days ago, and i've let it lie, partly because I was a bit busy, and partly I got sort of apprehensive towards it....expecting a blocked JFC from it.
Well today I opened it and the first thing I inspected was exactly that. Mine isn't perfect either, but I have one hole on either side when fully opened. Still a bit apprehensive i threw a 1.0 ohm st st coil in it, and lit it up...
Man this thing is blowing me away. Its an awesome tank when it comes to throat hit, flavor and vapour production. Smoothest MTL draw...proper proper MTL, as it should be. I'm in heaven here. So So glad I bought this...!
I've had two fills through it so far and its wicking perfectly.
The only downers is the damn design of the top fill cap, and the mouth piece is a little small for me. I can get used to the mouth piece (sort of are already), but this cap is beyond belief...very stupid design
Thanks @Chodi, i'll look for one in my arsenal.
Yeah there is variation. Its a bummer for sure. Same as you, when I unscrew the deck by a 1/4 turn, I have two holes. Its in the thread. Lining it up correctly and drilling a hole in the bell might fix that. Mine runs well on only one hole.
Yeah there is variation. Its a bummer for sure. Same as you, when I unscrew the deck by a 1/4 turn, I have two holes. Its in the thread. Lining it up correctly and drilling a hole in the bell might fix that. Mine runs well on only one hole.
Man this Spica reminds me of the Skyline clone. It hits just as hard and the vapour is through the roof. Just doesn't leak as the Skyline used to..
The air inserts is the best design i've experienced from a RTA. The way it directs and distributes the air flow makes all the difference. I've got the 7 flute in, and two smaller holes on the AFC open, and it is a perfect MTL draw for me.
This is the best MTL tank I have ever used....without a doubt.
Just wishing it was a bit smaller...
The air inserts is the best design i've experienced from a RTA. The way it directs and distributes the air flow makes all the difference. I've got the 7 flute in, and two smaller holes on the AFC open, and it is a perfect MTL draw for me.
This is the best MTL tank I have ever used....without a doubt.
Just wishing it was a bit smaller...
New mod, tip and frosted glass. Mod colour is a bit yups, but i'm going to colour it black...
I just read this thread again and I realised I over reacted towards @VictorC...My humble apologies. I miss understood your intentions... @RadiusNick mentioned that he's interested to hear about the original compared. I think many others are also interested to hear. Plz if you care to comment...I will hang my head in shame..!
@RadiusNick mentioned that he's interested to hear about the original compared. I think many others are also interested to hear. Plz if you care to comment...I will hang my head in shame..!I've had a close look and have been comparing the clone to the authentic Spica Pro.
There are cosmetic and performance between the two.
Mouthpiece - the authentic is a tad shorter than the clone, same bore and diameter though.
Top cap - the knurling on the authentic is slighty deeper and easier to grab hold of to unscrew, it's easier to remove than the clone top cap.
There is also more threading on the authentic top cap.
Logos - The logos on the authentic are slightly darker and easier to read.
Chimney - Inner diameter of the authentic is a tad wider than the clone.
Deck screws - are more domed and slighty smaller on the authentic.
Wicking ports- The two wicking ports on each side of the deck of the authentic are slightly larger, which is one of the reasons that the authentic wicks better than the clone, the other reason is listed below.
Juice control - As has been mentioned, the slots on the juice control don't line up with the wicking ports when you open it up and this does reduce the wicking on the clone which I've found does cause periodic dryer hits.
The authentic has no such issue, they line up perfectly and it does greatly alter the vaping experience.
All in all it's not bad for the money but it certainly doesn't compare to the authentic.
There are cosmetic and performance between the two.
Mouthpiece - the authentic is a tad shorter than the clone, same bore and diameter though.
Top cap - the knurling on the authentic is slighty deeper and easier to grab hold of to unscrew, it's easier to remove than the clone top cap.
There is also more threading on the authentic top cap.
Logos - The logos on the authentic are slightly darker and easier to read.
Chimney - Inner diameter of the authentic is a tad wider than the clone.
Deck screws - are more domed and slighty smaller on the authentic.
Wicking ports- The two wicking ports on each side of the deck of the authentic are slightly larger, which is one of the reasons that the authentic wicks better than the clone, the other reason is listed below.
Juice control - As has been mentioned, the slots on the juice control don't line up with the wicking ports when you open it up and this does reduce the wicking on the clone which I've found does cause periodic dryer hits.
The authentic has no such issue, they line up perfectly and it does greatly alter the vaping experience.
All in all it's not bad for the money but it certainly doesn't compare to the authentic.
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