Squape Reloaded Clone
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All of mine are tight.
I was having a discussion with an acquaintance of mine today and there is a distinct possibility that some of these "clones" we are seeing are actually the real mc coy'...
Now I am not starting up a storm here, but there are some of these coming out of China (European Atty Clones), that are 100% right down to the packaging, and that is the part that really makes no sense:
While China has some great copies of stuff, there is nothing to say that they are not making some of these European atomizers....
Or seconds.....first quality goes to the originator for distribution.....
Seems odd that all the retailers of the Stattqualm Squpe R have been out of stock, and the Kingtu "clones" have just been arriving, and that Vaperev says they expect stock anytime from Stattqualm..
Food for thought:
There is no gain from replicating packaging not to mention the production costs....
Just my two
worth.
IMHO
I was having a discussion with an acquaintance of mine today and there is a distinct possibility that some of these "clones" we are seeing are actually the real mc coy'...
Now I am not starting up a storm here, but there are some of these coming out of China (European Atty Clones), that are 100% right down to the packaging, and that is the part that really makes no sense:
While China has some great copies of stuff, there is nothing to say that they are not making some of these European atomizers....
Or seconds.....first quality goes to the originator for distribution.....
Seems odd that all the retailers of the Stattqualm Squpe R have been out of stock, and the Kingtu "clones" have just been arriving, and that Vaperev says they expect stock anytime from Stattqualm..
Food for thought:
There is no gain from replicating packaging not to mention the production costs....
Just my two
worth.IMHO
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Picked up clone from midsouthtrading on fleabay. Was a preorder, shipped from China.
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Nope not made in Switzerland, made in China.
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Came as advertised with 3 decks, a spare frosted glass, has frosted in it, and a parts bag. However, rust spots on the tank threads and was missing the necessary post screws.
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Love how they cloned the box right down to where it is made and the OEM's website. Note the box says 100% made in Switzerland.
View attachment 387401
Sits on an XPV 40 just fine. Ni200 build.
View attachment 387398
Nope not made in Switzerland, made in China.
View attachment 387399
Came as advertised with 3 decks, a spare frosted glass, has frosted in it, and a parts bag. However, rust spots on the tank threads and was missing the necessary post screws.
View attachment 387400
Love how they cloned the box right down to where it is made and the OEM's website. Note the box says 100% made in Switzerland.
View attachment 387401
Sits on an XPV 40 just fine. Ni200 build.
Exactly as I posted above!
Thanks for the pictures!
You read my thoughts!
(About posting the packaging pics).
Truthfully I don't think they cloned anything!
While Germany is a highly industrialized, Switzerland is not, not to the extent of other western EU countries...
Nothing to keep a EU country from designing and China manufacturing...
I think these are the legit OEM', or seconds...no sense in replicating packaging...
I am very familiar with EU laws regarding this and while in the U.S. we have to declare country or origin, the EU does not!
The U.S. is one of the only countries (Australia also I think) that declares where products are made, assembled, etc.
They do not have to say designed in Switzerland, made in China!
The ones that pass Q.C. get serialized, or shipped to originator for serialization and distribution.....
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The screws it came with, 4 are flat heads which is the wrong type and they fell in the holes being too small either 1.7 or 1.4 mm. Luckily I had some panhead SS 2mm from McMaster on hand.
View attachment 387420
Could this be rust?
View attachment 387421
The airflow control ring falls down leaving a gap and using the next size hole down makes it whistle like a steam engine.
View attachment 387423
Also, I had the posts come loose on rebuilds, ie unscrewing the build screws actually unscrewed the posts.
As far as vapes, well it is as good as my Kayfuns but not better which I was really expecting given the design it should wick juice a whole lot better.
These issues aren't major to me as I can overcome them easily but some people might think otherwise and will not be happy. I own several genesis style attys, and several tanks including foggers V4.0, 4.1, 4.2, and V5 and BIG Foggers and Kaisers and Aquas and Kayfuns. This is the first that the posts have come loose on or was missing the correct post screws. I did have one other that had brown spots.
What I like about the Squape R is it is easy to build on so I can try many different configurations. But I can't seem to get it to flow enough juice to get past 12W on the DNA40 without temperature protect kicking in. I've tried several Ni200 coil builds using 28, 30 and 32 gauge of differing diameters including contact and spread coils. No matter how many turns or gauge or how I wick it with rayon, cotton or Japanese cotton, cutting ends close, letting them fold over the sides, cutting at an angle, tight fitting, loose fitting, putting a flavor wick on top, it always seems to vape best at 12W. This is much the same as I have found on my Kayfuns. I really expected this to wick better. I must not have stumbled upon the necessary magic. The design should do much better flowing juice than a KF. If you know how to get this to wick and flow juice the best, please share.
A note; I had to lower the 510 center screw to get this to make good contact. Since the DNA40 and Ni200 is very low resistance (~.1 ohm) you need great, not just good, but great contact. Also, I have tried putting the chimney on the bottom then screwing together (ie not using the allen wrench) and unscrewing then filling and screwing back together so the lip inside the chimney makes a good seal with the deck.
I have not had it leak a single time.
View attachment 387420
Could this be rust?
View attachment 387421
The airflow control ring falls down leaving a gap and using the next size hole down makes it whistle like a steam engine.
View attachment 387423
Also, I had the posts come loose on rebuilds, ie unscrewing the build screws actually unscrewed the posts.
As far as vapes, well it is as good as my Kayfuns but not better which I was really expecting given the design it should wick juice a whole lot better.
These issues aren't major to me as I can overcome them easily but some people might think otherwise and will not be happy. I own several genesis style attys, and several tanks including foggers V4.0, 4.1, 4.2, and V5 and BIG Foggers and Kaisers and Aquas and Kayfuns. This is the first that the posts have come loose on or was missing the correct post screws. I did have one other that had brown spots.
What I like about the Squape R is it is easy to build on so I can try many different configurations. But I can't seem to get it to flow enough juice to get past 12W on the DNA40 without temperature protect kicking in. I've tried several Ni200 coil builds using 28, 30 and 32 gauge of differing diameters including contact and spread coils. No matter how many turns or gauge or how I wick it with rayon, cotton or Japanese cotton, cutting ends close, letting them fold over the sides, cutting at an angle, tight fitting, loose fitting, putting a flavor wick on top, it always seems to vape best at 12W. This is much the same as I have found on my Kayfuns. I really expected this to wick better. I must not have stumbled upon the necessary magic. The design should do much better flowing juice than a KF. If you know how to get this to wick and flow juice the best, please share.
A note; I had to lower the 510 center screw to get this to make good contact. Since the DNA40 and Ni200 is very low resistance (~.1 ohm) you need great, not just good, but great contact. Also, I have tried putting the chimney on the bottom then screwing together (ie not using the allen wrench) and unscrewing then filling and screwing back together so the lip inside the chimney makes a good seal with the deck.
I have not had it leak a single time.
In mine everything was perfect...
But I did notice how the posts were loose, so I put a drop of light duty Loctite on the posts to keep them from backing out during disassembly.
Really seems like these are perhaps the seconds...
I have a Genuine Taifun GT, and a Hcigar clone...
The only difference I can see is the shipping container; OEM comes in a tin, clone comes in a box.
I just recently got a Taifun Dripper from Germany...no country of origin on product anywhere!
The OEM Taifun GT has no country of origin stamped on it, and your receipt is you COA!
It is serialized, but so is the clone!
Too coincidental.....
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Maybe, but midsouthtrading advertised it as a 1:1 Style of Squape R Reloaded HQ kingtu.
The first coil I built shorted to the ematal on the top lip of the inside hole on the first loop of the coil, very small contact area as the edge there is sharp. It wasn't a total short but the resistance wasn't correct. It read .09 ohms instead of .17. Which I thought the whole point of ematal was so that it wouldn't conduct and therefore wouldn't short out like that but I could be wrong about that? Regardless I think that sharp edge should actually be chamfered. But hey no biggie, made a new coil taking off two loops for .14 so the coil fell inside the hole with clearance all the way around.
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The decks are made of aluminum that have a non-conductive coating, so it was doing its job, it didn't completely short.
When Vaperev gets stock this or next week I am ordering a new 'W" deck to compare it to what we got in the Kingtu'
(bet it's the same)!
"Maybe, but midsouthtrading advertised it as a 1:1 Style of Squape R Reloaded HQ kingtu."
I know, and Ebay pulled the listing!
Why this one and not the other Squape'?
Others are listing stuff as 1:1 clones!
I mean there is a Ebay of Germany, and Ebay Switzerland...
All Ebays share listings....if StattQualm saw listing they could request it pulled......hummmmmmm
I mean Hcigar makes the Taifun GT and GS "clones", but boxes them in cardboard even though they say "Made in Germany" on the box, they are not in what Taifun sells them in....and they are on Ebay Germany.......
There is no Taifun company, the Taifun line is solely distributed by Smokerstore.de, and Vaportools.de in Germany...they claim "they" make them....
Personally if it isn't made in the U.S.A., I am not paying the premium prices for so called OEM', nope, not doing it anymore...
I have 5 Z attys, HOH Mechs, ZNA Lite, and 4 Provari', Doc Dave T1 Steam Turbine, I know all of these stuff came from the good ole' USA!
Too many "High End" items are coming out made in Eastern Europe and EU, and Philippines.. now I am not putting down any country, but like the Philippines...come on...
Svoemesto is one of the only EU manufacturers that etches their attys (Kayfun') as made in Germany!
(Yes I have a few real Kayfun' too).
I have friends in Germany that have been to their facility so I know these are made in Germany..the rest..who knows....
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I'd bet a fair amount of money that authentic Squapes aren't coming off an assembly line in Shenzen. Packaging is the easiest and cheapest item to clone.
Like I said, the only EU attys that have any country of origin stamped on them are the Kayfun'....
(That I am aware of or have seen).
So you tell me why OEM Taifuns, and Squape' have no country of origin on the attys'?
Laser etching is cheap and easy!
There is also one from Hungary that has the country of origin, but I actually believe it is in Hungarian!
While packaging may be cheap, it is a unnecessary added expense if multiplied by thousands....
When you buy ANYTHING that does not state "MADE IN USA", you, we, all of us have no clue where the heck its made unless it says it!
(And of course you purchased it from a reputable USA seller)!
Just my humble opinion....
Be smart buy American!
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The rust on mine is in the exact same spot but extend up into the tank. I was hoping that maybe the rust was caused by an oversight drying it after a post machining bath but now I wonder ... they are putting on these to make them rust up.
Weird..no rust on mine at all....
Could be a result of cleaning after machining and not being completely dry....?
But then again most machining process cleaning is done in a solvent bath, unless they are being leak tested with water before being shipped and not dried thoroughly?
I mentioned using Loctite on the deck threads....
Loctite 2046 Food Grade Thread Sealant
This is what I used...DON'T use the regular automotive Loctite thread sealant as it may not be safe when it mixes with e-liquids!
Loctite 2046 Food Grade Thread Sealant
This is what I used...DON'T use the regular automotive Loctite thread sealant as it may not be safe when it mixes with e-liquids!
Yeah, the non conductive coating on the clones is very subpar. If the coil is touching certain areas you get a crazy resistance reading. A 1.5ohm coil might read 0.2ohm.
These are most certainly NOT authentics. If the authentic was as bad as these clones, there would be plenty of talk about it.
Yes, some of them even clone the packaging.
These are most certainly NOT authentics. If the authentic was as bad as these clones, there would be plenty of talk about it.
Yes, some of them even clone the packaging.
Like I said, the only EU attys that have any country of origin stamped on them are the Kayfun'....
(That I am aware of or have seen).
So you tell me why OEM Taifuns, and Squape' have no country of origin on the attys'?
Laser etching is cheap and easy!
There is also one from Hungary that has the country of origin, but I actually believe it is in Hungarian!
While packaging may be cheap, it is a unnecessary added expense if multiplied by thousands....
When you buy ANYTHING that does not state "MADE IN USA", you, we, all of us have no clue where the heck its made unless it says it!
(And of course you purchased it from a reputable USA seller)!
Just my humble opinion....
Be smart buy American!
I have visited SQ for about one month in Switzerland and I met Chris, CEO of StattQualm at the exhibition in Germany. You really don't know what you are talking about. StattQualm is producing the authentic SQuape - no one else. Everything is made in Switzerland - even the package. Please - before you are doing such statements, do your research. Go to stattqualm.ch or squape.ch - 4 guys started this as a hobby and it is still a hobby. all 4 are working in another job and doing this in their free time. Your fake product you have posted is a copy of the authentic - made in China, not in Switzerland. And for your info: Switzerland is as highly industrialised as other countries - even better then the US. Switzerland is known as one of the best manufacturing and developing country in the world. Even Germany learn a lot from Swiss manufacturers - I am from Germany and I really know what I am talking about.
Again, do your research - ask the guys of StattQualm or visit their facebook. They are friendly and will explain to you all you want to know. And again - this is why SQ is fighting agains the clone industry - because of such counterfeits you have bought and because of such opinions people get, because they have no clue what really happen in the market and just speculating.
I bought clones in the past and I am not related to StattQualm - but I did my research.
by the way - the Chinese manufactuers can also print "made in the US" if they like to do that. So they print Made in Germany and Made in Switzerland aswell. They don't care! They are just copying everything. If you wanna buy the real deal - go to the website of the manufacturer itself and look up for the authorized resellers.
I noticed on PBusardos video the edges inside the groves are not burred and I know white balance can be off affecting color but I don't think it is that far off. I believe these clones could be using a different coating.
View attachment 387502View attachment 387504
These problems should only be attributed to the clones and not the original. With that said I will continue to buy clones and view them for what they are...Chinese clones.
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The problem is a "Hobby" item should not be presented to a mass market and not supported with supply the mass market requires. If it's a hobby then they should have kept it local and not rolled it out beyond their manufacturing capabilities.
This group didn’t have the business plan to support their marketing, the product got cloned and when someone produces a good quality clone their product will become obsolete.
This group didn’t have the business plan to support their marketing, the product got cloned and when someone produces a good quality clone their product will become obsolete.
Well I think I have finally tamed the beast (touch wood)!
What I did was push the deck down as hard as I could so the posts protrude a mm or so above the deck (deck will probably never come off again now though) add a couple of the extra o-rings to 510 and then fiddle with the 510 pin until you find the perfect spot. on my Squape R it really has to be in one spot, a turn of one degree in either direction will mean a dead short or unstable resistance. I was tempted to thread lock it into place but I would have to find "the spot" again and it would probably ruin the conductivity.
It does seem to be a rather strange thing how accurate the 510 screw has to be.
I now have it with a .6 ohm coil wicked with rayon on the IPV3 and its is staying steady as rock at .6 and vaping like a champ at 15watts!
I doubt this will last as it has a mind of its own but I will not fiddle with it or even rewick until I really have to, and it has been relegated to regulated devices only, just cant trust it on a mechanical. I wlll post again in a few days to let you guys know how its going. I hope everybody else that was having issues with their device can get it sorted too!
All the best and I hope this is useful to some one.
What I did was push the deck down as hard as I could so the posts protrude a mm or so above the deck (deck will probably never come off again now though) add a couple of the extra o-rings to 510 and then fiddle with the 510 pin until you find the perfect spot. on my Squape R it really has to be in one spot, a turn of one degree in either direction will mean a dead short or unstable resistance. I was tempted to thread lock it into place but I would have to find "the spot" again and it would probably ruin the conductivity.
It does seem to be a rather strange thing how accurate the 510 screw has to be.
I now have it with a .6 ohm coil wicked with rayon on the IPV3 and its is staying steady as rock at .6 and vaping like a champ at 15watts!
I doubt this will last as it has a mind of its own but I will not fiddle with it or even rewick until I really have to, and it has been relegated to regulated devices only, just cant trust it on a mechanical. I wlll post again in a few days to let you guys know how its going. I hope everybody else that was having issues with their device can get it sorted too!
All the best and I hope this is useful to some one.
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