Squape Reloaded Clone

[inswva]

Well I think I have finally tamed the beast (touch wood)!

What I did was push the deck down as hard as I could so the posts protrude a mm or so above the deck (deck will probably never come off again now though) add a couple of the extra o-rings to 510 and then fiddle with the 510 pin until you find the perfect spot. on my Squape R it really has to be in one spot, a turn of one degree in either direction will mean a dead short or unstable resistance. I was tempted to thread lock it into place but I would have to find "the spot" again and it would probably ruin the conductivity.

It does seem to be a rather strange thing how accurate the 510 screw has to be.

I now have it with a .6 ohm coil wicked with rayon on the IPV3 and its is staying steady as rock at .6 and vaping like a champ at 15watts!

I doubt this will last as it has a mind of its own but I will not fiddle with it or even rewick until I really have to, and it has been relegated to regulated devices only, just cant trust it on a mechanical. I wlll post again in a few days to let you guys know how its going. I hope everybody else that was having issues with their device can get it sorted too!

All the best and I hope this is useful to some one.

Until I replaced the factory 510 pin with a machine screw, I had the same issue. The pin had to be in the perfect orientation or it would jump resistance like mad. Now with the machine screw and insulator, it's rocking and rolling.

I think I finally got my wicking issues resolved as well. My first several attempts were with rayon and it ran great for a few days and then start dry hitting. I re-did several rayon wicks but still got some dry hits. Tried more, tried less, tried shorter, tried longer and finally gave up and wicked it with KGD. Not a dry hit since. I'm no stranger to rayon - all of my attys have been wicked with rayon many times over. I guess the SqR just had to be different, lol. I will say though that it vapes very, very nicely with the cotton.

 

[cindycated]

That's how I have my deck too. Sucker's never coming out!

I only wish I had thought of lining the base with teflon tape before I shoved it in there. I'm a bit leery of how long this nonconductive surface is gonna stay nonconductive, or how good it is in the first place. If the finish fails on the deck, that's easy - just put a washer under the neg post screw and watch your build. But if it fails on that plate, not much you can do.

 

[M3CH M0D M4DN355]

Until I replaced the factory 510 pin with a machine screw, I had the same issue. The pin had to be in the perfect orientation or it would jump resistance like mad. Now with the machine screw and insulator, it's rocking and rolling.

I think I finally got my wicking issues resolved as well. My first several attempts were with rayon and it ran great for a few days and then start dry hitting. I re-did several rayon wicks but still got some dry hits. Tried more, tried less, tried shorter, tried longer and finally gave up and wicked it with KGD. Not a dry hit since. I'm no stranger to rayon - all of my attys have been wicked with rayon many times over. I guess the SqR just had to be different, lol. I will say though that it vapes very, very nicely with the cotton.

That's interesting, what type of screw did you use, is it an m3 thread and also what length and head type did you get if you don't mind me asking?
That's also strange you had those results with rayon as it was the exact opposite for me, I had constant dry hits and burning with cotton, and first time with rayon it was a huge improvement! The Squapes really are strange, they all seem to be unique and have differing issues?

@cindycated Yep im stuck with the wide deck on it now, but at least its working at the moment!
I agree about the coating, it appears to be more of an anodised coating than a ceramic coating like the authentic, I guess to do it properly like the original would cost a lot of time and money and make the clone very expensive (for a clone). That's a good idea too about the PTFE tape, I am not going to be able to put it on now though lol.

 

[inswva]

That's interesting, what type of screw did you use, is it an m3 thread and also what length and head type did you get if you don't mind me asking?
That's also strange you had those results with rayon as it was the exact opposite for me, I had constant dry hits and burning with cotton, and first time with rayon it was a huge improvement! The Squapes really are strange, they all seem to be unique and have differing issues?

It's a M3x16mm flat head. Here's my post from way back on page 53 (I think). I've re-coiled it since then due to not knowing how to properly build the SqR... it still ran pretty darn good though. I have a 26ga, 1ohm build in it now with the coil sitting in the air hole (previous build was 24ga raised above the air hole).

Yeah, they definitely all seem to have their own "personalities", that's for sure.

Okay... here's the result.

As you can see, the head on the machine screw is much larger than then head on the 510 pin which I actually think is a good thing - more contact surface for the connection. It's only a hair longer so I'm not sure it's actually threading into the base much farther than the factory pin. I used an insulator from an old BVC head I had in my desk drawer. Granted, it's only been a few minutes but it works and firing about two dozen times resulted in a rock solid .8ohm. Seems to hit harder as well but that may be my imagination. Dunno... vapes like a wild beast now.

I couldn't use the SqR on my IPV2 (fixed 510) with the supplied pin. Works like a champ with the machine screw. There is some gap but I'm not a stickler for that kind of thing. I could probably reduce the gap if I torqued the machine screw into the atty a bit more but I don't want to push the insulator into the connector.

Only time will tell if I've excorsized the demons. I won't be convinced until it runs without issue for at least a week. But, at the risk of jinxing myself, I feel pretty good about it.

Pics:

 

[realsis]

Just got my squape yesterday. She vape great but I can't get her past 13 watts without burning. I'm using angel hair organic cotton, might try another wicking media and see how it goes. Any tips?

 

[inswva]

Just got my squape yesterday. She vape great but I can't get her past 13 watts without burning. I'm using angel hair organic cotton, might try another wicking media and see how it goes. Any tips?

Are you trimming the wicks to the edge of the deck?

 

[realsis]

I'm. Trimming the wicks 1/2 way down so they don't block the juice channels. Just started doing this after watching a you tube video. It has helped. I'm building a 7 wrap micro coil that is a .9 ohm. 28 gauge wire. I'm now wicking with unbleached organic cotton. I can get this build up to 17 watts before burn...using my ipv3 150. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Millah]

That's how I have my deck too. Sucker's never coming out!

I only wish I had thought of lining the base with teflon tape before I shoved it in there. I'm a bit leery of how long this nonconductive surface is gonna stay nonconductive, or how good it is in the first place. If the finish fails on the deck, that's easy - just put a washer under the neg post screw and watch your build. But if it fails on that plate, not much you can do.

If the finish on the deck starts to wear off, I wouldn't vape it at all. Its aluminum underneath, and you really don't want raw aluminum to be touching your eliquid. Aluminum needs a coating to be suitable for food (like soda cans).

Basically these decks are just anodized aluminum I'm assuming. Some of the clones certainly look that way. They don't look to be the same "proprietary ematal" formula that Stattqualm has on the original. Anodized aluminum is fine, so long as you don't dig a deep scrape into the deck or chimney the finish shouldn't come off. But the anodized aluminum isn't as non-conductive as Stattqualms formula. It helps, but doesn't make it completely non-conductive.

Honestly this is the thing that worries me the most about these clones. The finish on the deck and chimney. If its aluminum without a proper surface finish, it simply isn't safe to have inside your atty.

 

[whtfang]

After sending tickets into FT for my 2 SR (& they are willing to give me credit for both), now both demons are working perfect for over 24 hrs of almost constant use. Seems like I'm even getting better vape than before. The resistance is holding steady on both of them. I even rebuilt them again with new coil & wick to see what would happen & resistance is holding. Those demon's must have known they were going to be shipped back!!

I decided to keep them especially since FT & many other places stopped selling them. Who knows how long I would have to wait to get another one. My other favorite is the Taifun & just saw that FT pulled all of them too. I'm so glad I stocked up on them. I have 7 or 8 of the Taifun's. When I find something that works & I like the vape, I will buy several of them. I am definitely a vaping hoarder!!!

I also love a challenge. Those SR really gave me a challenge to get them vaping right. My only concern is the finish. I'm wondering if there is any place that does e-matal coating like the original has. Would be nice to have our clones coated with the real thing. My son is a machinist & works with all types of materials & coatings. I'm wondering if he heard/knows about e-matal. Of course he's in Ohio & I'm in FL, but I could always mail him the chimney & decks. I'm going to have to call him over the weekend & discuss this with him.

 

[M3CH M0D M4DN355]

It's a M3x16mm flat head. Here's my post from way back on page 53 (I think). I've re-coiled it since then due to not knowing how to properly build the SqR... it still ran pretty darn good though. I have a 26ga, 1ohm build in it now with the coil sitting in the air hole (previous build was 24ga raised above the air hole).

Yeah, they definitely all seem to have their own "personalities", that's for sure.

That's awesome, thanks for that I must have missed your original post. I will certainly grab a few of them ready for when it decides to play games again, which is almost a certainty with this thing haha!

Thanks again I very much appreciate it!

 

[Lowjack12]

Just an fyi, the legit glass tanks from vaperev fit my kingtu clone perfectly!! Cost me half as much as this clone however

 

[inswva]

Just an fyi, the legit glass tanks from vaperev fit my kingtu clone perfectly!! Cost me half as much as this clone however

Nice head's up. I'm thinking I need to order one of these. Did you use the existing o-rings or the ones which came with the glass?

 

[Lowjack12]

I used the new ones that came with the glass

 

[patioclark]

Still working with the new Kingtu clone and it's generally okay and I'm sure that there's a learning curve. May I ask for a little help and I apologize if this is already in here--I tried looking back and couldn't find these answers.

I stripped a wire retention screw and wonder if anyone knows the replacement screw for these and I'm guessing go to FatDaddy Vapes?

How the heck do you work the glass tank (this one has the o-rings) out/in of these things? Mine seems really in there and I see broken glass in my future.

On filling this thing, my juice seems to get trapped between the chimney and the glass tank?? I sit there with a syringe for minutes waiting for the juice to flow into the tank. This can't be right? I've got the chimney snug and am thinking the tank isn't seated deeply enough. Although it doesn't leak.

My ohms are jumping a bit but settle after a slight screw adjustment. It's on a Sigelei 20W with a spring loaded 510. I'm concerned that I may be following many of you down the rabbit hole on this issue.

I do like the tank. Don't know if I like it $170 worth but may for a well done clone to replace it.

Thanks in advance for any help here.

 

[Lowjack12]

Yea, good luck getting the tank out of it. I had no luck and cracked the glass trying to remove it. And cracked the spare glass trying to get it in. I ordered a replacement from vaperev, used the supplied I rings and the new glass installed perfectly. Although I'm sure that the included install tool helped a bit.

 

[Lowjack12]

On filling this thing, my juice seems to get trapped between the chimney and the glass tank?? I sit there with a syringe for minutes waiting for the juice to flow into the tank. This can't be right? I've got the chimney snug and am thinking the tank isn't seated deeply enough. Although it doesn't leak.

From the sound of it your filling it right. It will hold about 5 mills of liquid.

 

[SeniorBoy]

The screws it came with, 4 are flat heads which is the wrong type and they fell in the holes being too small either 1.7 or 1.4 mm. Luckily I had some panhead SS 2mm from McMaster on hand..

Got my Kingtu clone today and I have the exact same problem however I do not have this screws in my Parts stash. Any ideas where I could find them locally or as a last resort on line?

Thanks.

 

[whtfang]

I also have the same problem filling the tank, but only on one of my SR. The other one fills with no problem. What I do is tilt it on a 45 degree angle when I'm filling it. Then the e-liquid runs down the side of the tank. If I hold it upright it seems to cause a vacuum & won't let the liquid in the tank.

Still working with the new Kingtu clone and it's generally okay and I'm sure that there's a learning curve. May I ask for a little help and I apologize if this is already in here--I tried looking back and couldn't find these answers.

I stripped a wire retention screw and wonder if anyone knows the replacement screw for these and I'm guessing go to FatDaddy Vapes?

How the heck do you work the glass tank (this one has the o-rings) out/in of these things? Mine seems really in there and I see broken glass in my future.

On filling this thing, my juice seems to get trapped between the chimney and the glass tank?? I sit there with a syringe for minutes waiting for the juice to flow into the tank. This can't be right? I've got the chimney snug and am thinking the tank isn't seated deeply enough. Although it doesn't leak.

My ohms are jumping a bit but settle after a slight screw adjustment. It's on a Sigelei 20W with a spring loaded 510. I'm concerned that I may be following many of you down the rabbit hole on this issue.

I do like the tank. Don't know if I like it $170 worth but may for a well done clone to replace it.

Thanks in advance for any help here.

 

[AMDTrucking]

There is NO MORE Sqapes or Taifun GT's on Fast Tech. Someone must have pulled the plug.

 

[petemoss]

Yea, good luck getting the tank out of it. I had no luck and cracked the glass trying to remove it. And cracked the spare glass trying to get it in. I ordered a replacement from vaperev, used the supplied I rings and the new glass installed perfectly. Although I'm sure that the included install tool helped a bit.

They show how to install and remove the glass on the Stattqualm website: http://www.stattqualm.ch/resources/Replace the PMMA glass.pdf