Squape Reloaded Clone

[roxynoodle]

I don't like the Aqua or the fogger for that matter, any dual coil tank seems more suited for lung inhales, I'm not to keen on them. A lot of vapour but very little flavour
I have a Flash e Vapour v3 coming hope it works good a lot of people saying it's good, same style as a GS and I really like my GS
It looks like it wont be a looker but most tanks aren't. As long as it works good I will be happy

You might like the Rose. You can run single or dual coils, and either is mouth to lung. It doesn't have huge airflow.

 

[roxynoodle]

I'm looking at the eXpromizer and seeing a kayfun crossed with a taifun. I'm guessing similar vape to those?

 

[AMDTrucking]

Ok guys. Ready or not, here it comes:
I've received my FastTech Squape Reloaded and it was a royal piece of "S". It conducted everywhere where it should not. And NOT conducting where it should. That Emetal coating is a joke unless it is inside the threads, then it insulates all right. I chased those threads with my Taps to get that Emetal (or whatever it was) out of it.
Long story - short, I decided to re-design the whole thing, treating it as it was made out of conducting material.
First I took care of the 510 connector by drilling it dipper and installing a Delrin Cup to hold the Positive pin. Then I made two new posts a lot thinner then the original were and put Delrin tubes (insulators) over them. My Post screws are now M1.6mm like Kayfun. I also made a Delrin insulator and put it underneath the Positive disk.
No way in hell it is going to short now, it just can't.
NI200 / Rayon build for DNA-40. Build is above the deck because I don't trust that Emetal coating.


What do you thing?

Here are some pictures:

 

[Steamer861]

I have one it's great the Erlkonigin is real good to My favourites have bin Kay-Fun Taifuns. the Rose and the Erlkonigin are just as good if not even better

You might like the Rose. You can run single or dual coils, and either is mouth to lung. It doesn't have huge airflow.

 

[Marc411]

I'm looking at the eXpromizer and seeing a kayfun crossed with a taifun. I'm guessing similar vape to those?

It is Roxy, bigger deck, deeper channels and bigger diameter chimney. I use more cotton to make sure I don't get flooding and the flavor is pretty damn good.

 

[roxynoodle]

Ok guys. Ready or not, here it comes:
I've received my FastTech Squape Reloaded and it was a royal piece of "S". It conducted everywhere where it should not. And NOT conducting where it should. That Emetal coating is a joke unless it is inside the threads, then it insulates all right. I chased those threads with my Taps to get that Emetal (or whatever it was) out of it.
Long story - short, I decided to re-design the whole thing, treating it as it was made out of conducting material.
First I took care of the 510 connector by drilling it dipper and installing a Delrin Cup to hold the Positive pin. Then I made two new posts a lot thinner then the original were and put Delrin tubes (insulators) over them. My Post screws are now M1.6mm like Kayfun. I also made a Delrin insulator and put it underneath the Positive disk.
No way in hell it is going to short now, it just can't.
NI200 / Rayon build for DNA-40. Build is above the deck because I don't trust that Emetal coating.


What do you thing?

Here are some pictures:

Wow you really went to town, but I bet it works now!

 

[Monotremata]

I want an atty that looks like this:

View attachment 389818

Dual side floats with tip over protection for four wheeling in rugged terrain, adjustable juice and air flow with metered juice to air ratio delivery ;D.

That carb just made me drool!!! I don't know if I want that on my MVP though hah!

 

[roxynoodle]

That carb just made me drool!!! I don't know if I want that on my MVP though hah!

You need the Variant 250W for that

 

[AMDTrucking]

Wow you really went to town, but I bet it works now!

It sure does. I'm not afraid to put it on my DNA40 Vapor Flask... That's how much I trust this Squape Overloaded now.

 

[petemoss]

Good job, AMD! I never understood the advantages of having a non-conductive ematal coating just to prevent shorts if your coil touches the deck or chimney. You're right, just insulate the positive post like a normal setup and don't let the coil touch the deck. What's so hard about that? The ematal coating is a solution for a nonexisting "problem"!

 

[elenamylove]

Ok guys. Ready or not, here it comes:
I've received my FastTech Squape Reloaded and it was a royal piece of "S". It conducted everywhere where it should not. And NOT conducting where it should. That Emetal coating is a joke unless it is inside the threads, then it insulates all right. I chased those threads with my Taps to get that Emetal (or whatever it was) out of it.
Long story - short, I decided to re-design the whole thing, treating it as it was made out of conducting material.
First I took care of the 510 connector by drilling it dipper and installing a Delrin Cup to hold the Positive pin. Then I made two new posts a lot thinner then the original were and put Delrin tubes (insulators) over them. My Post screws are now M1.6mm like Kayfun. I also made a Delrin insulator and put it underneath the Positive disk.
No way in hell it is going to short now, it just can't.
NI200 / Rayon build for DNA-40. Build is above the deck because I don't trust that Emetal coating.


What do you thing?

Here are some pictures:

This is the perfect example of atty elves working late into the night!!

 

[roxynoodle]

I wonder if something could be painted on that's food safe and non conductive. Sure would be easier than making new posts. Of course if the deck were coated right, the rest would be moot.

I did go so far as to look up local places that do anodizing, but then told myself my clone wasn't worth whatever it would cost.

 

[AMDTrucking]

I wonder if something could be painted on that's food safe and non conductive. Sure would be easier than making new posts. Of course if the deck were coated right, the rest would be moot.

I did go so far as to look up local places that do anodizing, but then told myself my clone wasn't worth whatever it would cost.

It took me just a few hours to make new posts and insulators. Luckily I have a small Lathe and I've purchased Stainless Steel and Delrin rods before that.

I followed this very thread, read what you guys had to say about this Squape R clone and thought what am I going to do when it arrives.

Another words, I already had planned what modifications will I need to make because of YOUR experiences expressed in this tread.

Thank you very much to all of you

 

[m00nshake]

I was wondering the same, but its not sounding like it.

As for leaking: make sure both flimsy o rings are in the metal part of the tank between that and the plastic part. Or that your wick on the W deck goes a bit past the edge of the deck.

I know there is one o ring that goes on the bottom of the tank but where does the other one go?

 

[jbarrick]

Is this Emetal coating even necessary?? When was the last time you had a short from your build? You should check your coil before firing it up, to make sure your coil is not touching the deck anyway, RIGHT ? The Emetal coating appears to be trouble than it is worth, or am i missing something? None of the 100's of atty's out there have anything like this that I know of.

Emetal coating Hyp or Feature? Now, how to remove it?

Sorry to be so negative, but my SqR is on a slow boat to China for a refund.

 

[roxynoodle]

Is this Emetal coating even necessary?? When was the last time you had a short from your build? You should check your coil before firing it up, to make sure your coil is not touching the deck anyway, RIGHT ? The Emetal coating appears to be trouble than it is worth, or am i missing something? None of the 100's of atty's out there have anything like this that I know of.

Emetal coating Hyp or Feature? Now, how to remove it?

Sorry to be so negative, but my SqR is on a slow boat to China for a refund.

Well, my most recent issue is my coil works perfectly for 24 hours, then shorts on the deck. Some minute change is happening from heating and cooling that allows it to touch the deck in an area where the coating isn't thick enough. So I got tired of messing with it every night. Maybe another of my decks would work better. I'm hoping the authentic deck fits since I solved all the other problems.

 

[roxynoodle]

I know there is one o ring that goes on the bottom of the tank but where does the other one go?

The ones for the plastic or glass section? One fits in a groove about 1/4" above the windows and the other goes in a groove about 1/4" below the windows.

 

[petemoss]

Roxy, why not use a smaller bit so the coil is narrower than the channel? You could also lift the coil a tad higher. I hate to throw away a good coil, but it sounds like yours is drooping down and shorting on the deck.

 

[whtfang]

Before I bought one of the authentics, I spoke to my son who is a CNC machinist & certified mechanic about what it would take to re-Ematal the clone decks & chimney. It is a expensive process because you can't just re-coat it. All the original coating needs to be sandblasted to bare aluminum. Also there are several types of anodizing finishes. Since our clones need to hold a somewhat close tolerance so everything fits together (he mentioned the type of anodizing finish it would need but I forgot the exact name).

It would be different if you were going to do 75-100 of them at a time, but to just do a few, the cost would run more than buying the real thing.

 

[realsis]

I'm kinda shocked that everyone is having so much trouble with the squape R. Mine has been great. I did have some leaking when I wasn't properly wicked but I rewicked and it solved the issue. I think there are different clone manufacturers because mine that came in a white box hasn't shorted, does not leak (unless my wicking isn't right, which is user error on my part) and it's given me a pretty nice vape. I'm using deck C the curved deck and like it a lot and haven't had a reason to change it. In all fairness not ALL the squape R clones are bad. It defiently depends on manufacturer.