Pretty sure its the opposite. There was a misconception that acrylic was stronger. POC used acrylic in his co-op for sure.
Starting a genesis build
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Pretty sure its the opposite. There was a misconception that acrylic was stronger. POC used acrylic in his co-op for sure.
can i ask - why did pailpoe use circuit boards and raidy doesn't, is that the kanthal - self-limiting?
or was pailpoe's specific to not having a wire?
is the circuitry a good thing?
sorry, and thanks!
EDIT #5: ....and did raidy every hint at what his "other" atty was? was it something so fundamentally different and greater... that it would negate all the work people are doing off the genesis?
or was pailpoe's specific to not having a wire?
is the circuitry a good thing?
sorry, and thanks!
EDIT #5: ....and did raidy every hint at what his "other" atty was? was it something so fundamentally different and greater... that it would negate all the work people are doing off the genesis?
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Yeah his next work of art will probably make what I'm doing irrelevant but it will be an experiance.
Pailpoe is using induction so it requires a different power source. I believe his unit is running something like .17 ohms 1.2 volts and 10 amps. I was actially thinking about making an extra case to make an ULRA.
For those confuse about the design it will be a variaton of the genesis setup in the link.
Willpro 13 DIY
google translate will help you read it if you want but the pictures will give you the idea.
Pailpoe is using induction so it requires a different power source. I believe his unit is running something like .17 ohms 1.2 volts and 10 amps. I was actially thinking about making an extra case to make an ULRA.
For those confuse about the design it will be a variaton of the genesis setup in the link.
Willpro 13 DIY
google translate will help you read it if you want but the pictures will give you the idea.
i think... pailpoe's design uses the ss mesh roll as the heating element as well as the wick... for the size of the mesh it seems he needed alot of current... (so yeah he needed circuit boards to regulate it all... can someone chime in? look at the post above lol)
i think raidy's ss mesh roll (wick) kanthal (element) design is alot more user friendly...
i dont think it would negate all the work... i mean its diy right? the "new atty" is not a genisis... and completely different (no mesh rolling, no kanthal...) and much harder to diy... but i hope to see the internals of it when he gets the patent would just love to see what he came up with...
edit- Akya2120, aw... i dont think it makes it all irrelevant i mean... you are building a "working and reusable" atty
i think raidy's ss mesh roll (wick) kanthal (element) design is alot more user friendly...
i dont think it would negate all the work... i mean its diy right? the "new atty" is not a genisis... and completely different (no mesh rolling, no kanthal...) and much harder to diy... but i hope to see the internals of it when he gets the patent would just love to see what he came up with...
edit- Akya2120, aw... i dont think it makes it all irrelevant i mean... you are building a "working and reusable" atty
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Well my parts should be ordered later today. I've started rendering my genesis in autocad. I am having trouble with how I am going to make the positive terminal. I might just end up using one solid copper wire. If anyone could help with the terminal design I would appreciate it. Also is the mesh wick tube important or can I just use an O ring? Has anyone found kanthal for a decent price yet? Is the stuff on ebay actually what it says it is? If anyone wants to see my draft before it is finished let me know and I'll post it. Maybe that would make helping me easier?
I get progress done and then something holds me up because I don't know. Fortunately there is a mass of knowledgeable people here. Thanks guys!
I get progress done and then something holds me up because I don't know. Fortunately there is a mass of knowledgeable people here. Thanks guys!
Yeah,
Post Your draft.
O-Ring or ferrule around the mesh is not mandatory with the Genisis build. Some have used a ferrule, some have not. Not sure if anyone has tried an O-Ring.
The hole in the top of the tank for the wick serves as a ferule too. I'm not sure I follow what an o-ring on the wick is supposed to do- plans to see would help.
Do you have any pictures or drawings of, or maybe you would like to elaborate on what you are talking about here?
I was kind of thinking out loud but, something like this was what I had in mind.
Since I'm planning my own genisis build soon, I'll chime in on this. I was thinking of using some SS tubing, threaded on both ends as my positive and negative conductors through the tank. This way I could use machine screws at both ends to hold the whole thing together, and as my terminals. Only thing I haven't worked out yet is how I'm going to connect the battery connector to them.
When I said Terminal I ment the kanthal terminal. My plan was to use a set screw with two nuts for one terminal and either solid copper wire for the other. I was planning on just using one of the 510 terminals from another atomizer for the battery connection. When I have a decent draft finished I will post a render of it.
I thought the O ring was to keep the liquid from spilling out around the mesh into the air chamber. So this is not needed to prevent that. Just drill A 2mm hole and roll the mesh to the right size?
From what I've read the metal in the middle of the air chamber and the tank is used as a heat sink. What is a good thickness so the unit doesn't get too warm with some heavy vaping? I was thiking 1/4" or 3/16".
I thought the O ring was to keep the liquid from spilling out around the mesh into the air chamber. So this is not needed to prevent that. Just drill A 2mm hole and roll the mesh to the right size?
From what I've read the metal in the middle of the air chamber and the tank is used as a heat sink. What is a good thickness so the unit doesn't get too warm with some heavy vaping? I was thiking 1/4" or 3/16".
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The nice thing about what I'm doing with mine is that the friction from the O rings only holds the tube in place. Not the whole assembly. It also makes running one of the connections much easier. I'll post my CAD drawing as soon as it is finished.
So my parts are in. I'm still wondering what thickness I should make the upper piece where the kanthal will be heating I was thinking 1/4 inch.
How much wick do I need above my coil?
Also what size hole is typical for the air inlet?
How much wick do I need above my coil?
Also what size hole is typical for the air inlet?
1/4 is fine. doesn't really matter, what ever you like.
put about 5mm of wick above the top of the coil.
Some have drilled 2 holes but, I'd say that is a matter of preference.
seems like everyone like a different draw.
put about 5mm of wick above the top of the coil.
Some have drilled 2 holes but, I'd say that is a matter of preference.
seems like everyone like a different draw.
Hey what do yall think about this as an idea for a quick connect/disconnect terminal. No tools needed to connect the coil wire, just push the bushing down and wrap the coil wire around once and release. The spring holds tension against the coil wire. Could be made in any size.
Dan
Dan
Cool idea, I might I have thought about doing that but hopefully if I set it up right I won't need to change kanthal so much that it is an issue. I also think you would need a pretty heavy spring to keep a good connection and that might be a pain.
Does anyone know what the hole size is for a 510 cartridge/drip tip?
Drip tip OD = 8.5mm
plus the O ring groove of course.
Actual hole size in CE2 = 8.7mm ID
Actually the spring tesion does not need to be great if you single wrap around the post, the spring will just keep the wire pressed against the post head. Gathering supplies to test this out.
Dan
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