Stock Kanger Protank setup = still useless with acidic juice

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frankfennel

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ECBlend's All Natural and Organic %100VG pineapple, cinnamon/peppermint, and banana all warn not to use with plastic tanks.

I used these in a protank (and an MT3 which I think might have cracked, but not all the way through)

Granted the juices were made with extra flavor, they make the rubber grommet/gasket that slides on the air shaft of the coil head expand so much in size that it blocks the wicks completely and cuts off juice flow to them.

The MT3's grommet expands too, but it didn't give me such bad dry hits. I think the MT3 might do the opposite and gurgle when the grommet expands.

The protanks grommet seems so over-sized even when not expanded that it almost blocks off the wicks. When the juice gets low, Protank, MT3, and all other bottom coil tanks start to gurgle from the extra air in the tank. But I find the Protank gurgles way worse and way sooner (sometimes around half a tank even with thick %100 VG). This might be because of the grommet.

Possible fixes when the grommet expands, blocks the wicks and gives only burnt dry hits:

Put the grommet on the shaft, but don't slide it down, let it move into position when the tanks screwed together and don't tightend the tank all the way, so that the grommet doesn't close off the wicks. It sort of works.

My PV's broke right now, but if you have a kanger T3 or MT3 grommet, those are smaller and might not close off the wicks even if expanded.

Turn the grommet upside down?

I usually just dilute the juice with a different non-acidic one.


It's great that the protank's glass and doesn't leach chemicals, but I'd really like to see this expanding grommet problem gone in future bottom coil tanks.
 

Dannyboy5691

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Yep turn the cup upside down. That might fix the problem. :)
I'd also like to add that I've gotten my Pro tank down to 1/4 full without any leaks or gurgles. I've only put 3 tanks through it so far, so maybe that will change in a week. I've decided to wait a week to post an honest opinion. This way I hope can observe any and all problems. Thanks for the info. :)
 
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rogergendron1

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The grommet might spin while screwing the base on and then realig the position of the triangle cutouts.
I'll figure something out when I get my MOD working.


try using evod heads and flipping the gomit upside down

for 100% vg juice i use a 1.8 ohm evod head in the pro tank with 1 wick removed and a flipped gromit with no troubles. well i vape it for a day or two with all the wicks in then they seem to fill up and gunk a little and give dry hits after a day then i just pull it apart and pull one wick and it works great

i bought my girlfriend 2 protanks and took all the protank heads out and gave her 4 evod heads instead so she would have less fuss with it . she uses 50/50 juice so no need to pull a wick and her roomate is jealous my girls protanks have a better draw than hers lol i will never give my secret to her lol . also pro tank heads can be used in the evod the ones i took from her i use in my evod boddy because they were 2.5 ohm and she only has a 3.4v battery . i use a twist and evod setup so we swapped heads she gets the evod 1.8 for the protank and i use the protank 2.5s in my evod lol works out great.


edit evn though the protank heads work i the evod they hang down a little lower so you cant screw them down as tight but they do work great and give the evod an airier draw .
 

Red_Bird

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I've been vaping my Good N Plenty recipe which melts Vivi Novas, in my Kanger Pro Tank. No problems. It is very acidic, but its not 100% VG.

5.5% Horehound
5.5% Absinthe
5.5% FW Ecto Cooler

All 3 ingredients are high in acidity.....The eliquid is 60% pg 40% vg......no grommet swelling...no leaking

100% vg has gotta be a factor.
 

WV_Mountaineer

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try using evod heads and flipping the gomit upside down

for 100% vg juice i use a 1.8 ohm evod head in the pro tank with 1 wick removed and a flipped gromit with no troubles. well i vape it for a day or two with all the wicks in then they seem to fill up and gunk a little and give dry hits after a day then i just pull it apart and pull one wick and it works great

i bought my girlfriend 2 protanks and took all the protank heads out and gave her 4 evod heads instead so she would have less fuss with it . she uses 50/50 juice so no need to pull a wick and her roomate is jealous my girls protanks have a better draw than hers lol i will never give my secret to her lol . also pro tank heads can be used in the evod the ones i took from her i use in my evod boddy because they were 2.5 ohm and she only has a 3.4v battery . i use a twist and evod setup so we swapped heads she gets the evod 1.8 for the protank and i use the protank 2.5s in my evod lol works out great.


edit evn though the protank heads work i the evod they hang down a little lower so you cant screw them down as tight but they do work great and give the evod an airier draw .

I too remove a wick in my evods no matter what juice I'm using, I figured I'd have to do the same when I get a pro tank.
 
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Kataphraktos

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My new Kanger Protank fell apart about 20% of the way through my first tank of 100% VG. The glue that held the base to the Pyrex went soft, and the Pyrex began loosening, and then leaking. I took it apart, scraped all the residual glue off the parts, and re-glued. Now the damned thing floods, and I'm getting mouthfuls of liquid.

I bought a Kanger Evod as well, and that just floods and gives me mouthfuls of liquid straight out of the box.

This is my experience within 24 hours of receiving these two.

I bought these for convenience, to use with my Provari. If I have to spend time customizing and adjusting them to get what I get out of my Vmod XL as-is with zero hassle or work, I'll just use the Provari with a drip tip at home, and stick to the Vmod XL for on-the-go vaping.

Edit: I did not mention that I did clean these at one point using filtered water. I am not sure if this may have caused these issues. After re-gluing the Protank, I put in a new coil unit, and it seems to work fine now. I'll update if the re-glued unit starts coming apart again.
 
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Dannyboy5691

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My new Kanger Protank fell apart about 20% of the way through my first tank of 100% VG. The glue that held the base to the Pyrex went soft, and the Pyrex began loosening, and then leaking. I took it apart, scraped all the residual glue off the parts, and re-glued. Now the damned thing floods, and I'm getting mouthfuls of liquid.

I bought a Kanger Evod as well, and that just floods and gives me mouthfuls of liquid straight out of the box.

This is my experience within 24 hours of receiving these two.

I bought these for convenience, to use with my Provari. If I have to spend time customizing and adjusting them to get what I get out of my Vmod XL as-is with zero hassle or work, I'll just use the Provari with a drip tip at home, and stick to the Vmod XL for on-the-go vaping.

Did you contact the vendor before you decided to try and reglue the bottom piece back on to the Pro tank? You probably received a bad one. I haven't had a problem with either of my Pro tanks (so far) and I've used 80/20, 50/50 and 100% VG in both. One of my EVOD's has a tighter draw then the other but no gurgling or leaking issues yet from either of them. Sorry to hear about your bad luck with them.
 

Kataphraktos

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Did you contact the vendor before you decided to try and reglue the bottom piece back on to the Pro tank? You probably received a bad one. I haven't had a problem with either of my Pro tanks (so far) and I've used 80/20, 50/50 and 100% VG in both. One of my EVOD's has a tighter draw then the other but no gurgling or leaking issues yet from either of them. Sorry to hear about your bad luck with them.

Nah, I'm pretty hands on with this sort of thing, and I'm not going to bother folks when I can tinker with something while catching up on Dr. Who.

I've been vaping with the Protank since I reconstructed it and replaced the coil earlier today, and it is working flawlessly now. Out of the box, it seemed a tad loose, so you are correct in that I got a "bad" one, but since I re-glued it, it seems to be rock-solid. When I pried the bottom off, it seemed that there was very little glue holding the two pieces together, with most of the glue on one side of the tank - which is why it seemed a bit crooked out of the box, as one side was not attached properly due to the lack of glue.

Also, I've been swapping the Protank out with the Kanger Evod, after I replaced the coil in that one as well, and now the Evod is no longer flooding... so it may be that the original coils could not handle being washed and dried overnight. This is not to say they aren't washable, just that in all likelihood something happened to these specific coils when I washed them. I'll just stick to swapping juices without washing, and let the new ejuice slowly replace the old one.
 

Wallelf

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Yep turn the cup upside down. That might fix the problem. :)

I had to resort to double cupping: the first cup in its normal position, then a second one on top, upside down. I can finally use the Protank without leaks and gurgling.

This procedure did not, however, solve my problems with my eVods.

~Buff~
 

Dannyboy5691

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Quick update: the re-glued Protank is working flawlessly since I last posted. I've gone through two tanks this weekend. The Evod with the new coil is also not flooding/leaking at all.

Of couse, now I'm looking at the Tatroe SS tank upgrade. It never ends.

I'm glad everything is working for you. :)

I started a post about the Tatroe but no one seemed interested. It seemed a little pricey for at least one member (not too bad IMHO), and it doesn't have a window to see your juice level. But it's made of ss and can hold a little over 3mls of juice. Not to mention you can use the Pro tank base and head AND your own drip tip. I think it's a really good deal, although I would like to see them in the $25 price range without the base and heads. $30 with them. I'm probably going to pick one up next month. If you grab on soon, let us know what you think. The 2 video reviews I saw on YouTube were very positive. :)
 
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Kataphraktos

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What type of glue did you use?

I decided to use regular crazy glue, and just made sure I applied it only to the outer rim where the Pyrex meets the metal. I made sure none got on the internal area, where it might interact with the juice. I used a very tiny amount, a microdot. I applied using a Q-tip, and painted the outer rim so as not to get any on the bottom edge of the Pyrex, for the same reason.
 
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