As unlikely as it may seem you might want to check to make sure the positive coil leg or coil wraps aren't shorting for whatever readson.i didn't think to check! i will over the next couple of days. thank you.
As unlikely as it may seem you might want to check to make sure the positive coil leg or coil wraps aren't shorting for whatever readson.i didn't think to check! i will over the next couple of days. thank you.
think they're fine but will double check.As unlikely as it may seem you might want to check to make sure the positive coil leg or coil wraps aren't shorting for whatever readson.
I must be losing it, I re-read your initial post on the subject and "get it" now. I somehow was thinking the the ohm reading was with the same atty in two different mods. Cold ohms in device after fired and ohms on the screen (rounded) should match. DNA60's do refine the ohm setting over time but that should just be a small amount. After refinement screen and device monitor should still match.bit of a problem with one of my BBs.
escribe atomizer reads the coil I've put in my new xeta at 0.12 (low, i know) and that's correct. the BB (dna60) reads it at 0.06 which is plainly an issue
I've had the same.Just a few days ago when i got a new Xeta clone in,it was reading .45 but when i hit the power button,it would either jump to 1.5 or .04,drove me nuts trying to figure out the problem because it wasn't giving me the shorted message.Turned out,just like you mentioned,the lead was just barely sticking out of the clamp just enough to touch the barrel.I have found the positive leg of the coil sticking out too far under the clamp and shorting against the sleeve once or twice resulting in a really low reading but without getting "shorted" error.
Just how far from making contact would you say is needed? If just a tiny amount is needed you can take a bit off of the box's "legs" using a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface.Just discovered the kangers that are supplied with the sxk’s positive pin isn’t sticking out at much as my haku’s and will not touch the mod. They worked fine on my orange bb, but will not contact on the black. Weird![]()
Nice.I have been happy enough with my SXK's,but that Dober is my favorite color out of all the colors available,and may be what pushes me to buy an authentic,i really like that color haha.Decided to get an original too..the Dober will be in my hands before the SXK gets here. It would be interesting to compare both.
Decided to get an original too..the Dober will be in my hands before the SXK gets here. It would be interesting to compare both.
I also got a Flow V.2. Anybody tried it? Does it do MTL?
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I didn’t want to sand down boro legs in case I wanted to use it with another bridge so I ended up removing the positive post and putting on a tiny oring. Now it sticks out enough for contact.Just how far from making contact would you say is needed? If just a tiny amount is needed you can take a bit off of the box's "legs" using a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface.
I had that issue first built. I started putting my cotton through the coil, placing chimney on top with cotton sticking out the slots and trimming it with a little cotton sticking out. Then I fluff the cotton ends to make sure it’s filling the square holes. Wish they would have rounded out the holes cause our wicking is round, but it fixed my flooding.I've had the YFTK xeta for a couple of weeks now and really love the smallest airflow insert but I keep getting gurgling/flooding once the juice level in the tank drops below the shoulder of the chamber, and sometimes dry hits when it's full. I've tried varying coil diameters and amounts of cotton, can anyone help? Thanks!
That's how I wick the Xeta. Do a rough cut first then trim and fluff once the chimney is assembled. The cotton fluffs out to fill the squared off holes just fine if you take a little time and juice it well before it goes into the boro.I had that issue first built. I started putting my cotton through the coil, placing chimney on top with cotton sticking out the slots and trimming it with a little cotton sticking out. Then I fluff the cotton ends to make sure it’s filling the square holes. Wish they would have rounded out the holes cause our wicking is round, but it fixed my flooding.
I have 2 Flow V2's. I got them with the combo deal they ran with the Boxxer V2. The Flow V2 is a great bridge. Much better than the Flow Ti was. I like regular round 26ga kanthal spaced coils in it or 30,30/40 fused claptons. Great flavor with nice smooth airflow. Enjoy, brotherDecided to get an original too..the Dober will be in my hands before the SXK gets here. It would be interesting to compare both.
I also got a Flow V.2. Anybody tried it? Does it do MTL?
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I have 2 Flow V2's. I got them with the combo deal they ran with the Boxxer V2. The Flow V2 is a great bridge. Much better than the Flow Ti was. I like regular round 26ga kanthal spaced coils in it or 30,30/40 fused claptons. Great flavor with nice smooth airflow. Enjoy, brother