SXK Billet box...

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badinfluence357

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Got a snail on the way. Can anyone tell me how they vape/wick compared to the Vapeshell in full open mode?
Its diffrent, alot more air flow then the vapeshell with bigger juice inlets. I used the secound largest air flow adapter just to reduce the air and create more suction. You do have to make sure you use enough cotton to avoid flooding, but over all its a nice atty and vapes really well..I would say its a must have for bb users. Atmizoo did an amazing job with this design...

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Pigs

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Its diffrent, alot more air flow then the vapeshell with bigger juice inlets. I used the secound largest air flow adapter just to reduce the air and create more suction. You do have to make sure you use enough cotton to avoid flooding, but over all its a nice atty and vapes really well..I would say its a must have for bb users. Atmizoo did an amazing job with this design...

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Thanks. Atmizoo are an impressive company. Brilliant designs and great cs
 

englishmick

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I had a bit of an accident with my BB, running with the Kanger RTA. I didn't keep an eye on it and let the juice get low. It was almost empty. Only noticed when it started tasting dry.

I took the back off and there was juice everywhere. I took the tank out and dried everything up and realized juice was draining out at the bottom of the plate that covers the screen. Took the plate off and popped the screen up and dried off everything I could get to. I don't know how much juice might have got further in underneath the screen. It works fine now though and no more juice is coming out.

Is this a situation where I should open it up more and try to get it cleaned up inside the chip area? Or should I just leave it be.

I'm guessing the flooding was the result of letting the juice level get too low. Is that a correct guess?

I did notice that the plate covering the screen has a groove running all the way around the edge that looked like it could hold an o-ring. Should there be an o-ring there? And would the juice get to the screen through the positive contact or around the edge of the plate? I saw something in this thread about sealing the positive pin with silicone. Is that something most people do?
 

Pigs

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An early days comparison between the SXK Vapesnail clone and the Xeta clone. I've been vaping the Xeta almost daily since the clones hit the market but just got my snail yesterday so don't claim to be an expert. I just posted this on the shinyitis thread but thought I'd share with you guys:

Ok so far no leaking, no gurgling, no dry hits from the snail (copied Todd's wicking technique).
The deck can fit big builds but is a bit tricky if you like 5 wrap contact coils - the angle of the deck combined with how far apart the screws are means you kind of have to bend one or both coil legs to get it sitting straight without it stretching out. Small thing but worth mentioning.

The flavour's good but the coil sits lower/further away from the drip tip than the Xeta. It's early days - only 2 builds in on the snail - but so far I'd say I get slightly better flavour from the Xeta.

The snail wide open has heaps of air - a bit more than the Xeta wide open.

The huge plus for the snail is the design that lets you remove the deck and re-wick or change a build without emptying out the tank like you do with all boro based rbas. It's so convenient. Means I won't put off re-wicking so much like I tend to do with Xetas etc.
 

gsmit1

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I had a bit of an accident with my BB, running with the Kanger RTA. I didn't keep an eye on it and let the juice get low. It was almost empty. Only noticed when it started tasting dry.

I took the back off and there was juice everywhere. I took the tank out and dried everything up and realized juice was draining out at the bottom of the plate that covers the screen. Took the plate off and popped the screen up and dried off everything I could get to. I don't know how much juice might have got further in underneath the screen. It works fine now though and no more juice is coming out.

Is this a situation where I should open it up more and try to get it cleaned up inside the chip area? Or should I just leave it be.

I'm guessing the flooding was the result of letting the juice level get too low. Is that a correct guess?

I did notice that the plate covering the screen has a groove running all the way around the edge that looked like it could hold an o-ring. Should there be an o-ring there? And would the juice get to the screen through the positive contact or around the edge of the plate? I saw something in this thread about sealing the positive pin with silicone. Is that something most people do?
I've had that happen a few times with different setups. This is when I pull out the CRC spray electronics cleaner. Without the straw thing.
 

gsmit1

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I'd say I get slightly better flavour from the Xeta.
I love the Xeta. I have 3. You need to try the Bridg'd though. Didn't blow it away, but it vapes better than the Xeta imho. I didn't know if I'd ever hear myself saying that about any BB RBA.

Once I got it setup right, the Vapesnail is very good and I'd say competes with the Xeta, but the Bridg'd is better. A pain to work with but a better vape.

I agree with your assessment of the Snail btw. Pretty much all of it. The ability to change your bits and change your wick without draining the tank is a massive pro.
 

gsmit1

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I'm guessing the flooding was the result of letting the juice level get too low. Is that a correct guess?
I think what happens is that once the juice gets below the wicking ports it breaks the "seal" it has in there when the juice is above them. With the ability of air to get in and out so is there the ability for juice to follow it.
 

Pigs

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I love the Xeta. I have 3. You need to try the Bridg'd though. Didn't blow it away, but it vapes better than the Xeta imho. I didn't know if I'd ever hear myself saying that about any BB RBA.

Once I got it setup right, the Vapesnail is very good and I'd say competes with the Xeta, but the Bridg'd is better. A pain to work with but a better vape.

I agree with your assessment of the Snail btw. Pretty much all of it. The ability to change your bits and change your wick without draining the tank is a massive pro.
Does the Brig'd do restricted DL?
 

badinfluence357

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I knew the day was coming after the screen went on my Sxk bb 70, the mod has passed. I think I will attempt to install a dna 60 board in it. I need to know if anyone has links to a complete breakdown of a billetbox. All i find are review videos on you tube. Need to know how to remove the positive post insert? Everythin else looks pretty straight foward...

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gsmit1

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I knew the day was coming after the screen went on my Sxk bb 70, the mod has passed. I think I will attempt to install a dna 60 board in it. I need to know if anyone has links to a complete breakdown of a billetbox. All i find are review videos on you tube. Need to know how to remove the positive post insert? Everythin else looks pretty straight foward...

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Ask THIS guy.
 

dwcraig1

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I knew the day was coming after the screen went on my Sxk bb 70, the mod has passed. I think I will attempt to install a dna 60 board in it. I need to know if anyone has links to a complete breakdown of a billetbox. All i find are review videos on you tube. Need to know how to remove the positive post insert? Everythin else looks pretty straight foward...

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Is that the battery positive post or the one for the atty?
 

laurie9300

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The battery positive is a bit tricky. The button plate had to come off first. You have to push the positive post in a bit then slide the plastic housing out a bit. Then inside you'll find a tiny sliver of clear acrylic you need to jiggle out (strong tweezers or small pointy pliers). Once that's out you can push the post in and slide the housing out fully.

Not sure if this will help, when I fitted a dicodes board.....

SXK Billet Box DNA to Dicodes Conversion | vaping in australia
 
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FLICK

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I knew the day was coming after the screen went on my Sxk bb 70, the mod has passed. I think I will attempt to install a dna 60 board in it. I need to know if anyone has links to a complete breakdown of a billetbox. All i find are review videos on you tube. Need to know how to remove the positive post insert? Everythin else looks pretty straight foward...

With a DNA60 board and screen costing $60+ I think I'd be inclined to wait for a FT or 3F sale and just spend $100-ish on a new SXK DNA60 BB, keep the old 70 watter for spares, the fire and up/down buttons are likely to come in handy one day...
 

b.m.

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Well,my search is finally over.I had been searching all over for months for copper buttons for the BB.It seems that nobody makes them.It was suggested to me to get in contact with a guy on the other forum who does metal work.I contacted him,and he had serious doubts whether he could do it or not,but after about a month of back and forth conversations,and some experimenting on his part,i got 2 perfect copper buttons today,i am a very happy guy today haha.
button.jpg
 

mackman

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I knew the day was coming after the screen went on my Sxk bb 70, the mod has passed. I think I will attempt to install a dna 60 board in it. I need to know if anyone has links to a complete breakdown of a billetbox. All i find are review videos on you tube. Need to know how to remove the positive post insert? Everythin else looks pretty straight foward...

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badinfluence357

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Can anyone help me understand the up and down switch wiring. The sxk up and down controls has 3 wires and the dna board up and down has 4 soldiring pads, positive and negative for up and positive and negative for down. The sxk switch has positive, negative, and ground..

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badinfluence357

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Just skip the second ground connection, badinfluence357. If only one button works, then run a jumper from one ground to the other. :)
I was thinking about that but wasnt sure if it would affect the up and down functions..

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