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I noticed something wrong with mine today, it was bone dry. (short wick tails)
With the Xeta you can vape the boro virtually dry with the wicks only just poking out the wick channels. No need to leave them long. It looks like the wick holes are placed too high but not the case
These switches are supposed to be here Friday.I noticed on another forum a few days ago you posted these FT switches didn't work out due to being too thick...
Another option, I was just flicking through a BB Fakebook group and found these screenshots that were posted back in 2017:
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These are the switches on ebay:
Matrix Array 1Key Flat Membrane Switch Control Keypad Slim Keyboard High Quality | eBay
If you search ebay for "Matrix Array 1 Key Slim Membrane Switch" you'll find a few sellers...
Goodluck
There's no need to do that.Just turn it so the wick ports are facing front and back,towards the glass,that way,every time you tilt the mod to vape,juice is hitting the wick.
Yeah,i tried several times and it just would not grab the legs,well it would grab them,but if i moved the coil at all they would pop out.The included Allen key may be the issue though,i never really crank the screw down with those because i've had a few strip on me,or strip the screw head.I'll have to find one of my good ones,and give it another try when i'm ready to rebuild it again.The thought of a clapton in there is something that definitely interests me,after using the Atlantis claptons for a while now.
I got mine Monday,they are tiny haha,but should definitely work out great as long as you get it centered in the opening for the button.
I got 4 of them,and think i may grab 4 more since they are so inexpensive.
I have some ideas about that that I haven't fully worked out.
First idea was finding some very thin stiff plastic material and using the existing switch membrane as a template to cut out a piece that will fit flush in that space there. Then I was thinking of putting a very small dab of something like whiteout on a button, using tape to hold the button in place in that round frame from the outside and being careful to put the plate back in place straight leaving a mark exactly where the firing protrusion on the underside of the button is.
Getting it mounted solidly is what I'm still working out, but should be able to figure something.
Well after drilling smalest pin to 1.2mm xeta behaves much better, flavor is bit better and draw too. For me vapeshell was better but now they are quite similar.
Hi!
I'm planning to grab SXK BB from FT on the Halloween sale. But I have several questions and I need your help, please.
I'm planning to grab SXK BB from FT on the Halloween sale. But I have several questions and I need your help, please.
- I'm thinking to buy SXK chip but not sure. DNA sounds awesome, but I don't know what is so great about DNA if I want to vape at 20w. I would buy it only for the Replay feature, but AFAIK DNA60 does not support it. I don't use regular TC. Will I be fine with SXK chip?
- Platinum question: Which bridge should I buy? I love restricted DTL or very loose MTL draw. How to set up my future BB for this? I'm thinking to buy vapeshell. Xeta looks awesome, but I don't like that cotton is too high in the tank and it stealing a space for liquid.
- Do I need any accessories to buy? Maybe some 'quality of life' things.
- I want best flavor possible. How to aim this? Regular fused claptons will be too much I think. I don't vape on regular wire, only MTL and regular fused claptons.
- And the last one, I want you to share your opinion: what do you like in your BB, what you dislike. Will you recommend to buy BB in 2019?
1. I have an Sxk chip in one of mine,and started having problems with it within 2 weeks of getting it.I have gotten it fixed now,but be aware any juice at all gets on the chip and it will malfunction.I had to pull the chip out,clean it with rubbing alcohol,then push the firing pin out and seal around it with silicone.It does work well now that it's sealed,but be aware it does need a fix,and i would suggest doing it before using it.
I also have a DNA version,and to me,it does seem to be a smoother power,but the SXK works as well.I have considered getting another SXK chip version to use as a carry mod for work since it's cheaper,but i will definitely seal the pin before using it.
2. The Xeta is the only bridge i really like,so would have to recommend that one.The cotton being high is no issue,it will draw in all the juice in the tank.
5. It's a nice compact mod.Some of the bridges can be a bit fiddly to get right,but once you get it set where you want,these setups are fantastic.Yes,i would definitely recommend buying a BB in 2019,in fact i have an orange Sxk DNA version coming in the mail this week.
Thanks for your reply!
1. Does it mean that DNA version does not have this issue with a liquid flood? I also thought that BB is pretty leakproof. The main reason why I want BB instead of RTA is a compact size and leaking proof device. I have some leaking issues with my RTAs in winter btw.
2. Thanks! I will try to decide which one to choose then.
5. That's awesome to read this. I always reading good reviews from BB owners, but it's really pricy device, so I'm trying to investigate some questions
Mine didn't flood,it was just a tiny drop of juice that made it past the pin,that's all that was on the chip was 1 tiny speck of juice,but it caused auto firing and other issues,I guess the Dna version could get a tiny bit of juice in there too,but the difference is the Dna chip has a coating on it that protects it from juice,the SXK chip does not have that coating.Thanks for your reply!
1. Does it mean that DNA version does not have this issue with a liquid flood? I also thought that BB is pretty leakproof. The main reason why I want BB instead of RTA is a compact size and leaking proof device. I have some leaking issues with my RTAs in winter btw.
2. Thanks! I will try to decide which one to choose then.
5. That's awesome to read this. I always reading good reviews from BB owners, but it's really pricy device, so I'm trying to investigate some questions
As for leaking,if you use a rba like the Xeta,Vapeshell,etc.,you can get leaking if the wick is not right,just like with any rta,but if your wick is good,then not really any leaking.
As for which to get,i like them both,i just keep in mind that if i get another SXK chip,i will seal the pin before i use it,that is the only problem i have had with it,after sealing it,no more problems.I do think the Dna will last longer before it goes bad though.
Woohoo,got my orange one today,very nice color.Here's a family photo haha.
Also,does anyone know where i can find a set of glossy black resin panels at a decent price?I like the look of the black panels on the orange,but i want some that are made like the SXK panels,glossy and smooth.
Also,does anyone know where i can find a set of glossy black resin panels at a decent price?I like the look of the black panels on the orange,but i want some that are made like the SXK panels,glossy and smooth.
The DNA board is sealed with electronic lacquer making it highly resistant to any kind of moisture. You CAN DIY too.
Looking for assistance with Kanger RBA bridge. Tried a few times but keep getting the same results
(I know... sign of insanity....)
The first 1/3 to 1/2 tank; no issues. But then I start to get horrible dry hits. This happens while the juice level is still above the wicking ports (and BB or Bantam- kept level; no laying down). FYI two builds: one is .6 ohm, the other about .8 ohm. Single coil 26g SS. Run them around 17W.
Too much cotton? Too little?
Similar builds using an Exocet or Vapeshell- no issues at all.
(I know... sign of insanity....)
The first 1/3 to 1/2 tank; no issues. But then I start to get horrible dry hits. This happens while the juice level is still above the wicking ports (and BB or Bantam- kept level; no laying down). FYI two builds: one is .6 ohm, the other about .8 ohm. Single coil 26g SS. Run them around 17W.
Too much cotton? Too little?
Similar builds using an Exocet or Vapeshell- no issues at all.
I'm not sure what's going on but early on I used the Kanger RBA's quite a bit with no problems like you are describing.
This video is pretty close to how I do mine. I put the coil down much closer to the air hole than shown here. I'm using 28 gauge twisted SS430 firing at 45 watts for 1 second and then 35 watts and a temp limit of 430F which never gets hit when I get it right. (2.7 mm ID coil)
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28ga twisted is a splendid simple build. Use it all the time. Sometimes I'll clapton over it with 36 or even 38.
How do you compare 430 to 316L? BTW, I see you on the Evolv forums and know that you know what you're talking about
430 has enough resistance change from cold to hot to make it easier for the board to provide some temp accuracy and dependability. 316/317 is for folks that like a challenge, works great in a mechanical.28ga twisted is a splendid simple build. Use it all the time. Sometimes I'll clapton over it with 36 or even 38.
How do you compare 430 to 316L? BTW, I see you on the Evolv forums and know that you know what you're talking about
Enter G Plat: 317L welding wire
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