If you mean "where do I get my SS430"
28 gauge Stainless Steel Wire - 430 Grade Nickel Free - 200 feet - 100% Guarantee
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28 gauge Stainless Steel Wire - 430 Grade Nickel Free - 200 feet - 100% Guarantee
Unkamen SS430 is excellent stuff and the roll lasts for years. Does he still send the little pack of bobbles with each order? 
Too bad he doesn't have 26ga or 24ga.
Too bad he doesn't have 26ga or 24ga.
Don't ask me why I keep typing 304. I had to correct it in my previous post, but yes. Thank you very much. Will be getting some .
I've been using twisted 28 Ti1 in my Exocet and Xeta (and other regular RTAs). 420F and 25 watts. .3 ohms. I get about the same. I got mine from Temco. Cheap. How titanium is not more popular is beyond me. It is superb for TC.
You're one of the answer men from the Evolv forums too. In fact I think it was you who helped me get rid of that annoying "temperature protected" message.
Only Temco here, but I also have that Unkamen SS430 and that's also good wire, and SS430 is NOT all nickel free like theirs, but I don't mind Nickel anyway.
Glad I could help.
We/they are all good folks. IMHO, I can be the crusty one at times 
Could anyone tell me how much does it weigh with an 18650 in it? I'm contemplating going the AIO route away from my Tesla WYE 85 (SUPER LIGHT and small) + EHPRO True MTL rta.
Have a few AIOs in mind but this one is up there for sure.
Might as well also ask, what's the best, in your opinion, rba option for MTL?
Have a few AIOs in mind but this one is up there for sure.
Might as well also ask, what's the best, in your opinion, rba option for MTL?
Yeah, I have some industrial grade "hard" 28ga Ti and while it vapes fine, it is a royal world class pain to work with. The annealed medical grade is awesome. I only wish Temco had higher gauges than 34. Would make some killer claptons.Only Temco here, but I also have that Unkamen SS430 and that's also good wire, and SS430 is NOT all nickel free like theirs, but I don't mind Nickel anyway.
Glad I could help.
Aside from an easily trackable TCR curve, due it's low density properties, it ramps up like right now too.
I'm going to try out some SS430.
"Crusty" is allowed. Especially when some guys don't wanna listen.
Ok mates, just received my Sxk BB and Ytfk Xeta from FT today. Watched a build video from Todd but I was shooting in the dark on my build. For maybe the past 6 years, my goto for mtl and flavor has been an old Vicious Ant Cyclone v1 rda. Tight draw, maybe 1 or 1.2mm. Anyhoo, I just went a basic 28awg round, 2mm I.D. and came out at .95 ohm. I chose the small 2-hole insert for under the coil, middle insert for the chimney and closed off the base airflow except for a wee bit.
Have to admit, I'm pretty chuffed with the result. Vaping at 17w about the same as my pico/cyclone combo. Perhaps the Cyclone is a tad tighter but the BB is actually a decent mtl with this setup. For mtl, I don't like it too loose and this is falling just at the line. If I opened up the bottom airflow any more, it'd would probably be too loose but I thought that .8mm insert would be too tight.
So yeah, very happy. I'm vaping them side by side with the exact same diy Vanilla Almond Milk, almost exact same build (run 28awg, .8ohm in the cyclone) and same wattage. I really can't tell a difference in the flavor. Perhaps the cyclone brings out the milk note a bit more but that might just be me clinging to a 6 or 7 year attachment.
Tbh, when I first began messing with the BB build, trying to coax the rba through the tank holes and whatnot, it felt like a bit of a regression from a vape technology standpoint. But after vaping a few hours and realizing how easy refills are, I think this little bugger is winning my heart and mind. I have a 2nd BB/Xeta on the way and my plan is to build it for DL, no inserts at all. I like to have all bases covered depending on me mood.
Btw, if you're like me and want the right tool for a job, that MIP hex driver in the photo is .050" and a perfect fit for those post grubs.
This vaping setup is Chester approved
cheers
Have to admit, I'm pretty chuffed with the result. Vaping at 17w about the same as my pico/cyclone combo. Perhaps the Cyclone is a tad tighter but the BB is actually a decent mtl with this setup. For mtl, I don't like it too loose and this is falling just at the line. If I opened up the bottom airflow any more, it'd would probably be too loose but I thought that .8mm insert would be too tight.
So yeah, very happy. I'm vaping them side by side with the exact same diy Vanilla Almond Milk, almost exact same build (run 28awg, .8ohm in the cyclone) and same wattage. I really can't tell a difference in the flavor. Perhaps the cyclone brings out the milk note a bit more but that might just be me clinging to a 6 or 7 year attachment.
Tbh, when I first began messing with the BB build, trying to coax the rba through the tank holes and whatnot, it felt like a bit of a regression from a vape technology standpoint. But after vaping a few hours and realizing how easy refills are, I think this little bugger is winning my heart and mind. I have a 2nd BB/Xeta on the way and my plan is to build it for DL, no inserts at all. I like to have all bases covered depending on me mood.
Btw, if you're like me and want the right tool for a job, that MIP hex driver in the photo is .050" and a perfect fit for those post grubs.
This vaping setup is Chester approved
cheers
Bantam is giving me problems.... 2 months old.
rebuilt an Exocet (after having some issues with Kanger bridge/RBA).
Reading .7 on ohm meter.
Started using on Bantam and noticed Ohms are jumping from .7 to 1.1 to 2.0 - back and forth. One time it gave a 'check atomozer' message. But then worked the next vape.
I assume it's a bad build. Bantam then show 'Battery Low' but gauge is showing 40-50% charged.
Change out battery- and battery meter (a good one) shows 3.6 volts remaining.
Decided to put build w/ Boro tank into my SXK BB. Steady reading of .7 ohms- no issues.
Any ideas to trouble shoot / repair Bantam?
rebuilt an Exocet (after having some issues with Kanger bridge/RBA).
Reading .7 on ohm meter.
Started using on Bantam and noticed Ohms are jumping from .7 to 1.1 to 2.0 - back and forth. One time it gave a 'check atomozer' message. But then worked the next vape.
I assume it's a bad build. Bantam then show 'Battery Low' but gauge is showing 40-50% charged.
Change out battery- and battery meter (a good one) shows 3.6 volts remaining.
Decided to put build w/ Boro tank into my SXK BB. Steady reading of .7 ohms- no issues.
Any ideas to trouble shoot / repair Bantam?
If it reads consistently the same on the ohm reader, I'd be inclined against the build being the issue. Even if the ohm reader is off a bit, the question is whether it gives close to the same resistance consistently. That would seem to indicate something with the mod.
This also points to the Bantam itself being the issue and not the build as it looks like you yourself have surmised.
The battery issue may or may not be from the same cause, but is definitely the mod too, assuming known good batteries.
If it were me, the first thing I would do is get me some of THIS and carefully clean it out real good, but I would try not to get that on the screen.
Anyone know how to remove the + contact for the tank on a Bantam? I'm thinking some juice may have gotten in there. Unlike a BB- the boards are above the tank, and off to the side, so I doubt there is an issue there.
On the BB it's relatively easy to push it through to the back, but this doesn't seem to want to move.
On the BB it's relatively easy to push it through to the back, but this doesn't seem to want to move.
got my sxk xeta clone at the weekend. dry hit central. wound a 4 core clapton with a 2.5mm ID (came out at 0.33 ohms) and got it in there o problem. wicked it once with rayon and once with cotton. here are some rather awful pictures
excuse the legs. sunday is shorts day...
strangely the rayon came out clean with no darkening (i didn't remove the cotton). should i adjust the screws under the wicking hole? used 80VG liquid and no airflow insert. bit disappointed currently.
excuse the legs. sunday is shorts day...
strangely the rayon came out clean with no darkening (i didn't remove the cotton). should i adjust the screws under the wicking hole? used 80VG liquid and no airflow insert. bit disappointed currently.
You should turn the wick tails away from the glass and the back of the box as in that position it will hinder wicking. You might try a thinner liquid or turn down the power some.got my sxk xeta clone at the weekend. dry hit central. wound a 4 core clapton with a 2.5mm ID (came out at 0.33 ohms) and got it in there o problem. wicked it once with rayon and once with cotton. here are some rather awful pictures
excuse the legs. sunday is shorts day...
strangely the rayon came out clean with no darkening (i didn't remove the cotton). should i adjust the screws under the wicking hole? used 80VG liquid and no airflow insert. bit disappointed currently.
cheers.
with the second build i did turn the ports away from the back and front. you may well be right about the viscosity. might mix a wee 65 or 70VG for testing.
If you are referring to the contact at the bottom of the Boro box having some juice there isn't going to do anything. Juice on the board's components is another matter.
You might have a look at where the board grounds to the case.
Im so pist at the fact that all I see is broken links instead of pictures..I only see some and I would like to see most. Anyone has a fix for this issue?
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