SXK Billet box...

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Pigs

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Take the boro out, measure the square where the boro goes in, cut to size, dump it inside, dump the tank, crank the top connector and you're done. I put a plug anyway, but with lighter eliquid is more than enough. At least it works on the BB and the Bantam.
I'll give that a try for sure. Big thanks Susaz
 

Pigs

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I'm thinking about buying a Bantam Box. Love my Billet Boxes and mainly vape them DL with a Vapeshell.
If I run a 0.8 Ohm build at 25 watts in a Bantam Box will I get enough battery life (for practical use) from a decent 9 or 10A CDR 18350 ? I see plenty of posts with pics of the Bantam and I love the look and size. Would appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.
 

FLICK

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Take the boro out, measure the square where the boro goes in, cut to size, dump it inside, dump the tank, crank the top connector and you're done. I put a plug anyway, but with lighter eliquid is more than enough. At least it works on the BB and the Bantam.

I was doing the same with a cut square of toilet paper behind the boro, and I also rolled up a toilet paper sausage that I'd push in the front below the boro so it went back under the left center of the boro and covered that gap below the glass, a redneck condensation plug that also absorbed any liquid... (I'm a tight draw person so it was no concern if the paper covered one of the nautilus airholes)
P4065141c.jpg


Now I've got condensation plugs coming with the crossbow clone I probably wont worry about the sausage, I think I'll still run the square behind the boro though...
 

Pigs

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I was doing the same with a cut square of toilet paper behind the boro, and I also rolled up a toilet paper sausage that I'd push in the front below the boro so it went back under the left center of the boro and covered that gap below the glass, a redneck condensation plug that also absorbed any liquid... (I'm a tight draw person so it was no concern if the paper covered one of the nautilus airholes)
View attachment 835691

Now I've got condensation plugs coming with the crossbow clone I probably wont worry about the sausage, I think I'll still run the square behind the boro though...
I'm gonna try Susaz' microfibre cloth and a version of your sausage.:thumbs:
 

proax9

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The head on the positive pin of Kanger RBA it a little longer on the Kanger RBA head that comes with the Billet Box. On a stock Kanger RBA head that I purchased I removed the positive pin and built up the end of the pin's head with silver solder.
The Kanger RBA head that comes with the Billet box fits just fine, it's one for the Kanger mini subtank that is too short.
View attachment 835669
The Kanger that came with my SXK BB is too short, no contact. I'll give the solder a try. Thanks.
 

BillW50

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Now I've got condensation plugs coming with the crossbow clone I probably wont worry about the sausage, I think I'll still run the square behind the boro though...
I'm going the other way. I ran condenser plugs for 6 months. They work fine and everything until the dam lets loose. And you can't see how much is back there either. Mine you have to loosen the key most of the time to remove the plug.

Also about 6 months ago, I purchased four JMK Tips Rev4 and used them for a bit and then stored them away. But I pulled them back out again because they are really convenient. Key/drip tip are one, solid electrical connections, and very low condensation.
 
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dwcraig1

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Talk of condensation related to the key always amazes me. While it's possible for the top o-ring of the box to leak I don't think I could get the key to leak if my life depended on it. When the wetness creeps up the back side of the box it certainly look like it came from the top but it came from the bottom.
 

dwcraig1

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Yeah that puzzles me about the JMK Tips and the lack of condensation. There is no o-ring on top, but they don't have that well in the key that collects juice either. Which probably overfills with the stock key and then drips down to the bottom.
But if it dripped back in it would be where the wick/coil is.
 

proax9

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The Kanger that came with my SXK BB is too short, no contact. I'll give the solder a try. Thanks.

My soldering gun is either shot, or I s**k at soldering. Couldn't get solder to stick to the positive pin.
Found a great workaround tho- will the positive pin out- I slip a very tight fitting o-ring over the positive pin all the way to the bottom of the pin; then reassembled it all (Had to put the collar on the bottom of the deck first as it would not fit around the added 0-ring) The positive pin still screwed in tightly, but not quite as far- so it now makes contact.
 

gsmit1

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My soldering gun is either shot, or I s**k at soldering. Couldn't get solder to stick to the positive pin.
Found a great workaround tho- will the positive pin out- I slip a very tight fitting o-ring over the positive pin all the way to the bottom of the pin; then reassembled it all (Had to put the collar on the bottom of the deck first as it would not fit around the added 0-ring) The positive pin still screwed in tightly, but not quite as far- so it now makes contact.
Are you talking about inside the mod or the bridge?
 
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Susaz

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Susaz

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I'm thinking about buying a Bantam Box. Love my Billet Boxes and mainly vape them DL with a Vapeshell.
If I run a 0.8 Ohm build at 25 watts in a Bantam Box will I get enough battery life (for practical use) from a decent 9 or 10A CDR 18350 ? I see plenty of posts with pics of the Bantam and I love the look and size. Would appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.
I try to use premade coils not to overstrain the battery and the chipset. The coils that work best for me are Nord 0.8 mesh coils, and it's easy to exchange once they burn out. I was using a Nord when I go out to dinner since it fits great in a night bag. The Bantam fits the bill perfectly, it's a regulated Nord with replaceable battery! Plus it looks so posh!
 
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