SXK Billet box...

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gsmit1

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With the way the price of the 70w version has dropped I suspect they've been trying to clear them all out before releasing more DNA60's...
The 70 watt Ares version isn't terrible from what I hear, but also not even close to the dna 60, also from what I hear.

IMHO, the dna 60 is a good choice for the BB. I'm very happy with it.
 
Hey Sam.. Welcome to the rabbit warren :thumb:

I'd probably suggest an SXK DNA60 as a foot in the BB door, make sure that form factor suits you before you invest the money on an authentic one... + the SXK has the USB which will make it easier to tinker with TC, + it comes with the couple of bridges and kanga rba....

I don't have my Haku Xeta clone yet but by all reports it seems to be the best universal RBA around at the moment, it seems to be a good place to start, easy to build and such..

Keep us updated on your journey :)

Thanks FLICK! That was what I was originally thinking, just to see if it's what it's all cracked up to be, but once I get everything I want to begin with it's still probably well over $200 for me. And I've been buying clones most of my vaping career, I just felt it's time to get something fancy to have in my hand and if I'm spending that much anyway, why not go a little more, on the good chance I'll love it. But yes I still am on the fence, I do love a bargain, plenty more research to go before anything solid happens.
 
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FLICK

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Shoot. Is it getting through? I haven't seen a customs note in the normal aus post tracking

yep, everything is getting through, it just seems to get caught up in customs for a few days, my FT order sent on the 20th (free shipping) arrived on monday the 7th... My xeta sent on the 23rd should have been delivered today or tomorrow I guess... (due to being on the mainland for a few months all my mail is redirected to my mums place at the moment)
 
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@SamOrSamuel
THIS is a condensation plug and THIS is the 510 key.
Ah yeah, I know what the plugs are, I think I just completely misread something along the way and thought someone said the JMK tips made the condensation happen less for some odd reason. Might have been about the key not making full connection sometimes and the JMK tip fixes that, now that I think about it. My bad
 
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FLICK

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Thanks FLICK! That was what I was originally thinking, just to see if it's what it's all cracked up to be, but once I get everything I want to begin with it's still probably well over $200 for me. And I've been buying clones most of my vaping career, I just felt it's time to get something fancy to have in my hand and if I'm spending that much anyway, why not go a little more, on the good chance I'll love it. But yes I still am on the fence, I do love a bargain, plenty more research to go before anything solid happens.

Just noticed you're another Aussie :toast:

My fury friends say "Hi":
Pa012101c.jpg


The Bantam Box, voted "Most pouch friendly" by 9 out of 10 wallabies:
Pa012096c.jpg
 

Pigs

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Hi, hello. I'm Sam.. or Samuel. Your choice.

New here on the forums. And I've got the billet box itch. I've read this entire 78 page thread, a lot to digest. I'm at a point where I am considering putting down the money for an authentic as my first, I have also been thinking about the SXK dna 60 instead which is why I'm here specifically. But I have the money and I'm turning 30 so spending my sorrows away to forget this fact is a good excuse, and it's something I use every single day sun up to sun down so I don't mind paying a bit extra. Also I'm cool either way for a USB port.

I have a couple questions that may sway me in either direction though, if anybody would be kind enough to clarify for me if they know:

1. Do all or most clone accessories work on the authentic? e.g sxk doors and the button/internal panel kits, I've read mixed things about magnets being opposite on the sxk. But I presume all the screws line up internally for other parts. And from what I read the atty's and bridges etc all work in either. This question is because the high end accessories for the authentic are often nearing the price of a new authentic, let alone an SXK. And that's one thing I can't dig, especially factoring the aussie dollar and shipping here. So if cheap bits can't fit on the authentic, well that probably answers it.

2. Would you recommend the Insider or Xeta (clones)? I only want to buy one at first to slow down the spending, along with a bridge, possibly Nautilus. And I want it to be a good first experience. I'm confident building, just looking for the easiest wicking option to avoid leaking and dry hit stress while using it daily wherever I go. And I'm a loose MTL and/or quite restricted DTL. I'm hearing good things about the Xeta. I currently squonk using an Origen Little RDA with 2mm or 2.5mm ID 27g Kanthal or 28g SS, roughly around 0.7-0.8 ohms.

3. Thank you, very much. If I said something incorrect I apologise. I apologise for the long read, I wanted to be thorough. It's a deep rabbit hole but I want to condense all my vape junk down to something like this system, I have too much stuff I don't use. But I want something I can use for the foreseeable future and be reliable, unlike my Hyundai, if anyone wants to buy it, cheap, real cheap, take it away from me, please.
Welcome SamOrSamuel! I'm new here too - just since June this year. Great bunch of people and an amazing resource.
I've got both an authentic and a clone BB and the main difference (if you don't care that the OG has a DNA that can't be tweeked - no usb) is the finish, feel and overall quality of the box. The authentic is another level. The vape will be the same if you get the DNA clone because you're using 100 percent interchangeable boro tanks, bridges, RBAs.
I wouldn't recommend the SXK 70W clone. Mine reads resistances high and I've heard that's a common complaint.
Good luck on your journey down the raBBit hole. :thumb:
 
Welcome SamOrSamuel! I'm new here too - just since June this year. Great bunch of people and an amazing resource.
I've got both an authentic and a clone BB and the main difference (if you don't care that the OG has a DNA that can't be tweeked - no usb) is the finish, feel and overall quality of the box. The authentic is another level. The vape will be the same if you get the DNA clone because you're using 100 percent interchangeable boro tanks, bridges, RBAs.
I wouldn't recommend the SXK 70W clone. Mine reads resistances high and I've heard that's a common complaint.
Good luck on your journey down the raBBit hole. :thumb:
Thanks so much!

Yeah I learnt quickly to avoid the 70, almost not quick enough, but just.

That's good to know that the authentic does have a slight edge in quality and feel over the SXK, although I'd hope so at the price of it, which is something I hadn't read before and needed clarification on too, so cheers! And yeah it would be the only reason for choosing it knowing the vape is the same either way, and the quality of the sxk would be absolutely fine too
 

Pigs

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I
I've never held an authentic, but I'm picky about build quality and I gotta say. The SXK is not junk at all. (not that you're saying that) I was quite surprised at how good it was when I got my first one.
I'm a sensitive flower :) ... the G10 panels are completely different. So much smoother and finer - I know many people buy 3rd party doors for their clones but I love the G10. The aluminium body itself is beautifully smooth and rounded on my authentic Piebald BB. It's a feel in the hand thing. It's also possible that different releases of the SXK version have slightly different finishes.
 

FLICK

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I ordered a Nord coil recently to see if I could hobble together a redneck Northbridge:
Pa092218c.jpg
The Sxk Kanga bridge stacked on top of the Nord coil is just a fraction longer than it should be so the nut would sit slightly high, and I need to find something to use as a sleeve to join them...When I get bored of playing with the RBA's I'll get back to tinkering with this...
 

lupinehorror

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I ordered a Nord coil recently to see if I could hobble together a redneck Northbridge:
View attachment 843757 The Sxk Kanga bridge stacked on top of the Nord coil is just a fraction longer than it should be so the nut would sit slightly high, and I need to find something to use as a sleeve to join them...When I get bored of playing with the RBA's I'll get back to tinkering with this...
good idea. do let us know how it goes
 
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FLICK

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I am! I'm Melbourne based, if that's what you have at your doorstep I'm very very jealous, I'm stuck in the city dreaming of that

They're pretty cool, they're wild but I've been feeding them on my doorstep for the last 20 years, a lot of them have grown in the pouch with me hand feeding their mums so they"tolerate" me quite well...
P2105062ss.jpg
 

b.m.

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Oh shoot, that's right. I got the Exocet from you too LOL! I'm losing track of where I got what anymore.

I wanted that tool and those panels from 3F and they only had the YFTK Xeta in stock. I paid 2 and a half bucks for the upgraded shipping so I'll probably get it before I'm in a nursing home, but not much sooner. DHL from China is pretty fast, but obscenely expensive as you know. Can't do that.
Nope,no Exocet from me haha.If i remember right,i think all i had at that time was the Vapeshell and some coil heads.I didn't get the Exocet until i decided i really wanted a BB again,and bought that deal on the other site,it had an Exocet with it,so that was my first one of those.
I just got that tool from them a few days ago,it seems pretty nice to have.I took it out of the package,looked at it,then stuck it in my supply box,and will probably never use it haha,but it is nice to have.My last 3F package,i used the 50 cent shipping option and got it in like 8-9 days,they usually do a good job with their shipping.
 

Susaz

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Jun 8, 2009
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I've never held an authentic, but I'm picky about build quality and I gotta say. The SXK is not junk at all. (not that you're saying that) I was quite surprised at how good it was when I got my first one.
Bought my first clone after buying my first original. Having a USB port makes the difference. But, sincerely, if it weren't for the price of course I'd much prefer the original. Differences in machining are minute. I scanned mine onto a CAD program and the differences are nothing, really.
What I've seen is that when the box heats up, doors start rattling on the clone. Anybody experienced that?
 
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