SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Technonut]

That is interesting about your new device without a humm. I wouldn't over think it as manufacturers routinely receive different components with different tolerences etc.. to do the same thing. Perhaps the same with your new buttons. How did your replacement process work for you on this one?

And regarding the PWM he corrected himself on his Post-Review Followup "On Tasteyourjuice.com "calling it PFM. Not that it really matters either way since either would have introduced a oscillating signal onto the coil to regulate the power just differently. Other temp limiting devices also pulse the coil with oscillating signal to achieve that same effect just differently.

What I am curious about he states the "rattlesnake" sound is present and some folks may not like it as well as the VS RDNA due to the sound. But from the oscillating signal he shows for the dna 40 it's period is about twice as long between pulses as the SXmini making me think the dna would have more of a "rattlesnake" and the SXmini have more of a "Hiss" when in temperature limiting mode. I don't have a 40 so I don't know firsthand just what the signals indicate.

I agree, I think everything combined features / options, accuracy, consistency, ease of use, quality of build is what's making this device so overwhelmingly accepted by the vast majority of the community. People want to vape not fiddle with their device constantly or have ongoing problems. Set it and forget it until time to drip or refill and have a consistent vape throughout that time.

I've had older PWM devices, and am one of "those" who can notice the "rattlesnaking" when firing a carto, but do not really notice it like that using the M Class in TP mode. As for the return, I just contacted the vendor, sent a couple of pics, and exchanged it. I'm pretty sure all warranty claims will go through the vendor. Since Pete's review is out, and a lot of speculation has been put to rest, I'm sure some of the technical info will be discussed in both threads now..

 

[2legsshrt]

Yahoo we are up again. Got my M on Wednesday and my Kanger STM is holding temp hovering at 410 my setting at 20J 48hours on this coil at .1ohms. I think it is maybe getting a little gunk if I try to chain vape the vapor diminishes a little leave it sit for a few and it is right back to perfect. I love it.

 

[2legsshrt]

He said it is not actually PWM it is PFM pulse frequency modulation. It's on his website a review of his review

 

[RebelGolfer72]

His issues with the Squape and the KF4 are not surprising at all. The temperature sensing is based off of resistance (as is just about anything electronic that measures temperature these days). Both the Squape and KF4 have a few unique features, that with traditional builds are awesome, but with a temperature sensing device are going to cause nothing but headaches.

The Squape has a "non-conductive eMetal deck" to make building a breeze, well, unfortunately, that non-conductive deck is somewhat conductive. Still higher resistance than the coil wire so it has negligible effect on most builds, but with the ni200, it's a resistance in parallel that does affect the readings. Add in that when you build with Kanthal, the wire will oxidize slightly, increasing that resistance between the deck and coil leads (that oxidation is the main reason why contact coils work beautifully with kanthal) Nickel does not oxidize as easily (which is why spaced coils work better with Ni200 builds) so it's making a decent contact with that conductive deck.

The KF4's "juice control" makes top-filling a breeze, however, the spring that they use to make the parts work right, is putting a decent amount of resistance in series...this resistance also changes with regard to temperature--- in other words, on a KF4, you are shooting at a moving target. A copper "shunt" around that spring could be enough to fix this. I do believe.

The third factor is that these devices do have somewhat restrictive air flow, so the coils are not going to cool as efficiently as they would in a dripper.

If he would have used something like a Lemo, or maybe even an older genny tank, he would see results of the TC more in line with what he saw in his RDA...he noticed issues with these tanks as well on DNA devices, so it's not isolated to the SX. As a matter of fact, I ran an Erlkonigin on a DNA device for 6 months, and the TC worked just as well as it did in my RDA

 

[dr g]

What I am curious about he states the "rattlesnake" sound is present and some folks may not like it as well as the VS RDNA due to the sound. But from the oscillating signal he shows for the DNA 40 it's period is about twice as long between pulses as the SXmini making me think the DNA would have more of a "rattlesnake" and the SXmini have more of a "Hiss" when in temperature limiting mode. I don't have a 40 so I don't know firsthand just what the signals indicate.

I can tell you that is not the case at all. The DNA's power modulation is far smoother than the pulse modulation method of the SXJ and never, ever rattlesnakes. I quickly discovered the rattlesnake on the SXJ and honestly am dumbfounded that not a single one of you mentioned it until phil did.

 

[2legsshrt]

His issues with the Squape and the KF4 are not surprising at all. The temperature sensing is based off of resistance (as is just about anything electronic that measures temperature these days). Both the Squape and KF4 have a few unique features, that with traditional builds are awesome, but with a temperature sensing device are going to cause nothing but headaches.

The Squape has a "non-conductive eMetal deck" to make building a breeze, well, unfortunately, that non-conductive deck is somewhat conductive. Still higher resistance than the coil wire so it has negligible effect on most builds, but with the ni200, it's a resistance in parallel that does affect the readings. Add in that when you build with Kanthal, the wire will oxidize slightly, increasing that resistance between the deck and coil leads (that oxidation is the main reason why contact coils work beautifully with kanthal) Nickel does not oxidize as easily (which is why spaced coils work better with Ni200 builds) so it's making a decent contact with that conductive deck.

The KF4's "juice control" makes top-filling a breeze, however, the spring that they use to make the parts work right, is putting a decent amount of resistance in series...this resistance also changes with regard to temperature--- in other words, on a KF4, you are shooting at a moving target. A copper "shunt" around that spring could be enough to fix this. I do believe.

The third factor is that these devices do have somewhat restrictive air flow, so the coils are not going to cool as efficiently as they would in a dripper.

If he would have used something like a Lemo, or maybe even an older genny tank, he would see results of the TC more in line with what he saw in his RDA...he noticed issues with these tanks as well on DNA devices, so it's not isolated to the SX. As a matter of fact, I ran an Erlkonigin on a DNA device for 6 months, and the TC worked just as well as it did in my RDA

Thats what my Kanger is doing hovering right at my setting of 410. Perfect

 

[terrapinvaption]

I notice the pwm or whatever whenever I take a long drag and start slowing my draw. That's about it.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

I notice the pwm in a sense as ots throttling back; but,not at all in a negative by any means. The product of it and the way its employed seems to enhance the vape when compared to evolvs method of temp limiting... At least in my experience.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

I can tell you that is not the case at all. The DNA's power modulation is far smoother than the pulse modulation method of the SXJ and never, ever rattlesnakes. I quickly discovered the rattlesnake on the SXJ and honestly am dumbfounded that not a single one of you mentioned it until phil did.

It was mentioned in here, whether it be on this or the other thread.
I know this because I started looking into it before I was asked to take a vacation week before last.
Personally side by side with the DNA40, for whatever reason, or through whatever tech this mod is giving me a much more pleasurable experience.

 

[dr g]

It was mentioned in here, whether it be on this or the other thread.
I know this because I started looking into it before I was asked to take a vacation week before last.
Personally side by side with the DNA40, for whatever reason, or through whatever tech this mod is giving me a much more pleasurable experience.

So far what I'm finding is the likely reasons people are having that impression of the SXJ are 1) more power first and foremost and 2) the operation of the device biases temperatures higher, so people "feel" better about the displayed temp limit vs the vape. Many people are reluctant to raise their temperature on DNA-TPs based on a flawed understanding of what the temperature display represents. As a result they get less than optimal results.

When you optimize both boards, the vape quality is basically similar and the differences boil down to the SX having quite a bit more power.

 

[jwat82]

I can tell you that is not the case at all. The DNA's power modulation is far smoother than the pulse modulation method of the SXJ and never, ever rattlesnakes. I quickly discovered the rattlesnake on the SXJ and honestly am dumbfounded that not a single one of you mentioned it until phil did.

I think the people who are running into the rattlesnake sound like Phil did are trying to run it like they did the dna40 and set the joules all the way and adjust temp to suit preference. That works pretty well on a dna40, but I think the sx350j is better suited to set a max temp and then adjust joules. I've never run into a rattlesnake sound doing it this way, even when I run my wick almost completely dry.

(note: I have no science to back this up, just my own observations and talking to other owners)

 

[dr g]

I think the people who are running into the rattlesnake sound like Phil did are trying to run it like they did the dna40 and set the joules all the way and adjust temp to suit preference. That works pretty well on a dna40, but I think the sx350j is better suited to set a max temp and then adjust joules. I've never run into a rattlesnake sound doing it this way, even when I run my wick almost completely dry.

(note: I have no science to back this up, just my own observations and talking to other owners)

That is true, and what it shows is that the SXJ's temperature control breaks down at high power-to-demand ratios. A busardo said, it is doing the same thing as the DNA schematically.

It was mentioned in here, whether it be on this or the other thread.

Let's see if this works ... Search Results for Query: rattlesnake | ECF

Got a reference?

 

[Fir3b1rd]

I'm not scrolling back to prove anything, dude. It was in here or there. I saw it before my account was suspended, and have nothing to prove. If you have to see it, its somewhere for you to find. If it makes you feel that much better you were right. I apologize for not agreeing with you.

Kind of Like before when I had no data to back anything up but you were pressing me to give my personal thoughts.....it was somewhere in that mess of talk.

All I care about is that the mod I use provides me with the best vape, I can find. And coming off multiple dna30 and dna40 devices this one knocks them all out of the park in every categorical way, to the point that I've already bought a second and selling most all of my evolv hardware with the exception of the ones with sentimental value.

 

[skin_e1]

I heard the rattlesnake effect the first time I built it. 1 time and after that nothing but vape pleasure I think the rattlesnake sound was caused by me building too big of coil and it was touching something it wasn't suppose to be touching. User error.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

After trying an S class a few weeks ago, I thought it was a nice mod, and using/trying everything along my journey from the original 510, egos, eVic, ProVari, DNA 30/40 devices, multiple mech mods, iPV 2, iPV Mini 2, Reos and even tried a Variant. The other day I tried an SX mini M-class. By far, and compared to everything else I have owned, tried or used, the SX-Mini M clas is the best built and performing mod I have ever had in my hands. Have one on order as we speak, and will most likely have another down the road as a backup.

 

[jhawk]

Thats what my Kanger is doing hovering right at my setting of 410. Perfect

Kanger is flawless on the M class

 

[retird]

They say the new Atlantis nickel coils are really good to.... got some coming from Protovapor....I think VS has them also but a bit higher priced...

 

[a tez]

So i got the Atlantis ni200 coils in today. They work well. .159ohms on the SX Mini. I tried them on my DNA 40s as well and I'm not having the same experience.

 

[retird]

So i got the Atlantis ni200 coils in today. They work well. .159ohms on the SX Mini. I tried them on my DNA 40s as well and I'm not having the same experience.

like what?

 

[a tez]

like what?

You can find my answer in this thread

Best ni200 coils? | Page 2 | ECF

I don't want to go off topic about the DNA40 in here.