Well that's what they look like. But I imagine it's not that difficult to copy blue shrink wrap and print it if your in that business.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
- Thread starter whitewidows
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Well that's what they look like. But I imagine it's not that difficult to copy blue shrink wrap and print it if your in that business.
Vlad, I bought some this evening from 101vape too, I hope they're the real McCoy.
Me to. Let me know what you get out of them once you get them.
Will do...the 18650 20 amp sony's I bought aren't cutting the ice.
That is why I posted my numbers. Yours seemed very low based on my experience.
I run my down to the low battery warning, or, I get caught out (literally) with NOTHING to vape. So, I pay attention to how much juice I have; both the liquid and the electric kind.
I should add; my ohms are in the 0.17-0.22 range. As I said earlier today, I stop pushing low ohm builds (0.11-0.14) since I got the SX.
And to give credit where due, listening to MidwestGuy's experience as an early adopter convinced me of the importance of consistency, of establishing a repeatable base line. T'heck with them Hobgoblins.
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Hello all,
Just found a pattern with our battery capacity and joules
Efest 3100mAH (20amp) Ni200 hard wire 5 wraps 0.05 ohms/24j/300f = 29199.8 Joules
Efest 2500mAH (35 amp) Ni200 hard wire 4 wraps 0.06 ohms/24j/300f = 24502.3 Joules
IMR 2200mah ( 20 amp) Ni200 hard wire 4 wraps 0.06 ohms/24j/300f = 22587.2 Joules
I have more to test but do you notice the patern? hehe, call me a sad bar stand but this could be how you see if your battery is good. If you are getting near equal mAh v Joules (1 to 10 I mean), then it would seem all is working fine and dandy. 1 mAH = 10 Joule?
But the Efest 3100 20 amp worked great and seemed to hold on as good as the 35amp version.
Good stuff
Another neat feature of our mini! Battery health monitor!
honestly I am being .... about the one I have now. I took a photo with a Nikon d810 and I can't see it in the photo without photoshop. it is a fraction of a mm gap and a fraction of a mm wide in one place on this one. I have seen some that have gaps about .5 mm. I just wanted to be honest about it because that is being very critical. ocd. the top of my vapor flask overhangs .3 mm and it bothers me. heck, the cover on the hana b4s has a bigger gap. I did not want to be a jerk so I am being honest that this is more of a personal issue than one with yihi.l I think I wish this was absolutely pristine since it is my favorite mod and I have a sizeable collection. I don't mean to start anything either but for me any day over dna40. for one thing j is correct in this application w is really not. they did it right in pretty much every way. could even care less about the usb port which incidentally is the best one I have seen.
This is tech talk and belongs in the other thread, so we can ... discuss it.
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Hello, I just wanted to share my reasons why I love my mini, and hopefully hear about other users' favorite mini features.
- Compact form factor : When I first set out to pick my first box mod, I narrowed my choices by favoring portability. I first looked at ZNA30, but it was too expensive for the wattage. I was just recovering from my cloud-chasing mechanical mod days spending all my money on batteries because I was venting them left and right running super-sub ohm builds on 26650 copper mods and 30m drippers. I had just chilled down to performance RTAs like, Lemo, silverplay, goblin etc. My doseage must not be less than 50watts. There were other high end boutique boxes or janky china boxes. I dont mean to generalize. I am merely stating that the compact form factor mods category I was looking at made me realize that I might have limited my options too much. Seigeli is hot, and ipv is doing it. But with whose chip tho? Who? Yeepeedee? Oh Yihi. Yihi. Yeehee Yihi?! What! They coming out with their own design mod with Sx350 mini chip in it and it's compact???!!?!!! Where do I pre-order? Yeah that was for s class but same and improved form factor was applied to m-class.
- 50watts / 120watts: My minimum dosage was explained above, but the 120watts cloud-chasing capability was such an undeniable token feature of mini to a recovering addict like me. This was perfect! With this one device, I can enjoy the beautifully crafted boutique juices while waiting in line of the cloud competition (Edited in: holding a gallon jug of pure VG in one hand and sexy future battle axe in the other) calming my nerves and praying that my batteries hold up and dont blow my hand or face off. It's the new extreme sports for geeks. Such an allure.
- User upgradable firmware: Thank you Yihi. I thought we were all at the mercy of apples next evil genius invention: i-Vape.
- Compact form factor : When I first set out to pick my first box mod, I narrowed my choices by favoring portability. I first looked at ZNA30, but it was too expensive for the wattage. I was just recovering from my cloud-chasing mechanical mod days spending all my money on batteries because I was venting them left and right running super-sub ohm builds on 26650 copper mods and 30m drippers. I had just chilled down to performance RTAs like, Lemo, silverplay, goblin etc. My doseage must not be less than 50watts. There were other high end boutique boxes or janky china boxes. I dont mean to generalize. I am merely stating that the compact form factor mods category I was looking at made me realize that I might have limited my options too much. Seigeli is hot, and ipv is doing it. But with whose chip tho? Who? Yeepeedee? Oh Yihi. Yihi. Yeehee Yihi?! What! They coming out with their own design mod with Sx350 mini chip in it and it's compact???!!?!!! Where do I pre-order? Yeah that was for s class but same and improved form factor was applied to m-class.
- 50watts / 120watts: My minimum dosage was explained above, but the 120watts cloud-chasing capability was such an undeniable token feature of mini to a recovering addict like me. This was perfect! With this one device, I can enjoy the beautifully crafted boutique juices while waiting in line of the cloud competition (Edited in: holding a gallon jug of pure VG in one hand and sexy future battle axe in the other) calming my nerves and praying that my batteries hold up and dont blow my hand or face off. It's the new extreme sports for geeks. Such an allure.
- User upgradable firmware: Thank you Yihi. I thought we were all at the mercy of apples next evil genius invention: i-Vape.
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Different battery bought in Apr '15 - 25R - 0.11 Ω - 3.0mm ID coil - 24J - 420º - Standard - 19564.8J used.
Welcome to the new Forum!
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/xentest/threads/xen-foro-tips-and-tricks.666330/
PBusardo's 2 parter SXmini M Class review was released.
VERY interesting overall. From what I gathered, the device is the "same, but different" than DNA 40 technology, uses PWM to achieve it's temperature limiting mode, is fairly accurate in it's temperature settings when the resistance is set properly, and paired with a topper which has soild connections like many drippers available out there... but loses temperature accuracy with some RTAs.. It seems the SMOK Gimlet provides soild connections, since the set temperature closely mimics the vaping experience that I've had on the drippers used so far, that have good, soild connections.
Even with the RTAs Phil mentioned, when the temperature was set to whatever suited his taste best, the device would consistently deliver / maintain around whatever that setting was, and work to prevent dry / burnt hits...
In Power mode, the device is just as extremely-accurate and consistent as the S Class, with the addition of the Powerful+ mode.
Personally, I am satisfied with YiHi's take on temperature-limiting in this device, and look forward to a possible firmware update to address the few bugs, and perhaps some other tweaks.
I ended up swapping my M Class for a replacement device, due to the paint chipping / flaking I posted about earlier. It is VERY interesting to me that the replacement unit has absolutely NO humming or buzzing present like the other. I don't know what to think about that.. YiHi issues an offiical statement.. it reads that the noise is normal.. I've now personally had units that make the noise, and not make the noise.. I haven't read of any related failures yet, but something worth staying informed about for certain.
The replacement also has up / down buttons which have noticable rattle to them, unlike the solid-feeling buttons in the other.. I'm not sure if this will be covered by the warranty. If I see others getting exchanges, I may try. OTOH, I do now have a non- humming / buzzing unit. It may be best to keep it, rather than take a chance on getting another with soild buttons, and the noise again. Just a personal preference.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/xentest/threads/xen-foro-tips-and-tricks.666330/
PBusardo's 2 parter SXmini M Class review was released.
VERY interesting overall. From what I gathered, the device is the "same, but different" than DNA 40 technology, uses PWM to achieve it's temperature limiting mode, is fairly accurate in it's temperature settings when the resistance is set properly, and paired with a topper which has soild connections like many drippers available out there... but loses temperature accuracy with some RTAs.. It seems the SMOK Gimlet provides soild connections, since the set temperature closely mimics the vaping experience that I've had on the drippers used so far, that have good, soild connections.
Even with the RTAs Phil mentioned, when the temperature was set to whatever suited his taste best, the device would consistently deliver / maintain around whatever that setting was, and work to prevent dry / burnt hits...
In Power mode, the device is just as extremely-accurate and consistent as the S Class, with the addition of the Powerful+ mode.
Personally, I am satisfied with YiHi's take on temperature-limiting in this device, and look forward to a possible firmware update to address the few bugs, and perhaps some other tweaks.
I ended up swapping my M Class for a replacement device, due to the paint chipping / flaking I posted about earlier. It is VERY interesting to me that the replacement unit has absolutely NO humming or buzzing present like the other. I don't know what to think about that.. YiHi issues an offiical statement.. it reads that the noise is normal.. I've now personally had units that make the noise, and not make the noise.. I haven't read of any related failures yet, but something worth staying informed about for certain.
The replacement also has up / down buttons which have noticable rattle to them, unlike the solid-feeling buttons in the other.. I'm not sure if this will be covered by the warranty. If I see others getting exchanges, I may try. OTOH, I do now have a non- humming / buzzing unit. It may be best to keep it, rather than take a chance on getting another with soild buttons, and the noise again. Just a personal preference.
Haven't watched Part 2 yet but headed that way.... nice to be back live ECF....hope the change over wasn't too painful....
The site is awesome, and conversations are so much cooler them PMs, wahoo
I just scored an M class on a deal I couldn't pass up. It'll be interesting to see how it stacks up to my Hana V4d. I previously owned the S class and it was a terrific mod... I ended up trading it for a regulated bottom feeder which I turned around and traded for the Hana, lol.
That is interesting about your new device without a humm. I wouldn't over think it as manufacturers routinely receive different components with different tolerences etc.. to do the same thing. Perhaps the same with your new buttons. How did your replacement process work for you on this one?
And regarding the PWM he corrected himself on his Post-Review Followup "On Tasteyourjuice.com "calling it PFM. Not that it really matters either way since either would have introduced a oscillating signal onto the coil to regulate the power just differently. Other temp limiting devices also pulse the coil with oscillating signal to achieve that same effect just differently.
What I am curious about he states the "rattlesnake" sound is present and some folks may not like it as well as the VS RDNA due to the sound. But from the oscillating signal he shows for the DNA 40 it's period is about twice as long between pulses as the SXmini making me think the DNA would have more of a "rattlesnake" and the SXmini have more of a "Hiss" when in temperature limiting mode. I don't have a 40 so I don't know firsthand just what the signals indicate.
I agree, I think everything combined features / options, accuracy, consistency, ease of use, quality of build is what's making this device so overwhelmingly accepted by the vast majority of the community. People want to vape not fiddle with their device constantly or have ongoing problems. Set it and forget it until time to drip or refill and have a consistent vape throughout that time.
And regarding the PWM he corrected himself on his Post-Review Followup "On Tasteyourjuice.com "calling it PFM. Not that it really matters either way since either would have introduced a oscillating signal onto the coil to regulate the power just differently. Other temp limiting devices also pulse the coil with oscillating signal to achieve that same effect just differently.
What I am curious about he states the "rattlesnake" sound is present and some folks may not like it as well as the VS RDNA due to the sound. But from the oscillating signal he shows for the DNA 40 it's period is about twice as long between pulses as the SXmini making me think the DNA would have more of a "rattlesnake" and the SXmini have more of a "Hiss" when in temperature limiting mode. I don't have a 40 so I don't know firsthand just what the signals indicate.
I agree, I think everything combined features / options, accuracy, consistency, ease of use, quality of build is what's making this device so overwhelmingly accepted by the vast majority of the community. People want to vape not fiddle with their device constantly or have ongoing problems. Set it and forget it until time to drip or refill and have a consistent vape throughout that time.
Vlad, I am getting 23416.9j from a brand new Samasung. Same settings I used before.
There does indeed seem to be some relationship between Joules and mAH. They seem to get on very well. At least that is how it looks to me. Maybe this is the new method to check our batteries health but I don't see it useful for anything else.
Still kinda cool though
There does indeed seem to be some relationship between Joules and mAH. They seem to get on very well. At least that is how it looks to me. Maybe this is the new method to check our batteries health but I don't see it useful for anything else.
Still kinda cool though
Both of these new 25R's I have are coming in at about 17500j. Max I've seen was 179200j so far. Testing a year old VTC5 today. I started to the other day and then did some other testing and forgot and took the battery out.
I think it's actually a little of both
But I think in PAM you would see a consistent duty cycle with only the amplitude change. In this there is no consistent duty cycle as the frequency of the pulse is modulated "PFM" but also with amplitude changes. So as not to tie up this thread we could discuss more on the other thread.- Status
