SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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PapaPro

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For those in the UK. This is the best cell I have found so far. 29k on the first disccharge and 31k on the second. This cell seems to out perform all the cells I have tried so far. If more stable Joules gives better battery life then these Efest seem a perfect match for our M Class. Time will tell but I am very happy so far :)

Good stuff people
 

coustain

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So after failing at building a TC build on my Goliath, I decided to do one on my Goblin just to see if it was me or the rta. Money! Came in at .048 ohms, dual 5/6 wrap 30g Ni200 wicked with Cotton Bacon. I'm still dialing in the settings, but it's working exactly the way it should be.
 
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nic_fix

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great reviews of subohmcell made for mods. the specs must be bogus so I don't know. maybe ill go get one to try.
I was thinking of deoxit but I hate the gunk.

I was wondering if you guys have the lemo as potent as the yep hell's gate? that would be amazing.

ill toss my flask,shark,hanas all of them to keep this. none really better build quality and I prefer the 350j. the flask does not run much longer than this either and I am pushing it hard. so is this stuff they say true that it does not do the stuff dna40 does? like ramp up,pre heat etc or whatever they are complaining of and it is not as stable? works better for me. I don't know.
 
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HolmanGT

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I will have to agree with everything you stated. My only build so far on my new Lemo 2 is a .09, 5 wraps on 3mm but the next time I will shoot for maybe a 4 wrap, but I like the idea of a 4.5mm if I had that size. I like to give a try with a macro coil with TC.

Actually Jim, I used a 0.185 drill bit I don't know what size that is but it is out a US drill bit set not metric. Tony sent me a couple in metric but I didn't get them until "The Great Experiment" had already happened. ;)

The 0.185 according to my converter is actually ~4.6 mm I used 28 Ga Ni200 Spaced and Rayon for the wick. The closest thing I have to the way it hits is my old Omega dripper dual coil Kanthal setup. Oh - and I know it is wicking well because ever second or third pull on it I get a couple of pretty could size bubbles coming up from the juice ports.

If you do decide to get "Wild and Crazy" let me know how it works for you.
 

JimScotty0

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So after failing at building a TC build on my Goliath, I decided to do one on my Goblin just to see if it was me or the rta. Money! Came in at .048 ohms, dual 5/6 wrap 30g Ni200 wicked with Cotton Bacon. I'm still dialing in the settings, but it's working exactly the way it should be.
Was that a twisted coil wrap? I want to try one of those.
 

JimScotty0

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Actually Jim, I used a 0.185 drill bit I don't know what size that is but it is out a US drill bit set not metric. Tony sent me a couple in metric but I didn't get them until "The Great Experiment" had already happened. ;)

The 0.185 according to my converter is actually ~4.6 mm I used 28 Ga Ni200 Spaced and Rayon for the wick. The closest thing I have to the way it hits is my old Omega dripper dual coil Kanthal setup. Oh - and I know it is wicking well because ever second or third pull on it I get a couple of pretty could size bubbles coming up from the juice ports.

If you do decide to get "Wild and Crazy" let me know how it works for you.
My next wrap I may take a walk on the wild side too! :shock:
 

coustain

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Was that a twisted coil wrap? I want to try one of those.

Actually it was just a standard spaced wrap on a 2mm precision screwdriver. Just make sure you are super careful tightening the screws. Just enough to capture the leads, no more. I'm currently running it at 30J and 480 Degrees F. View media item 427961
 
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MidwestGuy

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I build mine at .20ohm, I think the temperature is definitely off a little bit when deviating from the .065ohm target, as the SX Mini seems to think they're running quite a bit cooler than what I believe they actually are. I'm producing massive clouds using 30AWG 8 even spaced wraps, 3.2mm I.D. ... repeat: massive clouds of flavor and vapor. Set at 25J, the SX Mini has me barely going over 300F. Based on the vapor production, I think it's wrong.

I've also used 28AWG, 8 wrap 3.2mm I.D. and those came in at ~.105-.11ohm. Those, being closer to the "0.65ohm" target, are running at temperatures I would expect them to run at... hitting and attempting to hold temp at my setting of 410F.

I prefer my 30AWG build, as it seems to produce a bit stronger/more enjoyable flavor... so I'll deal with the potentially incorrect temperatures and stick with my .20ohm builds for now. Hopefully they can figure out how to calibrate the software a little better to better deal with different resistances. I can't imagine everyone is going to want to / be able to build a .065ohm coil every time in every device.

ETA: On my standard .20ohm 30AWG build ... I have to turn the temp down to ~380F in order to avoid burnt flavors/taste (not a "dry hit" but definitely a little scorchy-tasting). With that said, I'm pretty positive it's not accurate with a .20ohm build ... which I find a little disappointing.
 
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2legsshrt

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I am running 29awg tempered 7 wraps 3mm coming in at .1 ohm. The temp stays very close to the 410 setting at 18-20J. To do a fairly good size coil at a lower resistance 26awg would work about 7 wraps. My coil is on day 3 and putting out plenty of vapor and taste and seems real stable at 410. Stealth is out of 26awg tempered but I was going to try some regular 28awg I already wrapped it at 8 wraps maybe I'll take a couple off and give it a try.
 

JimScotty0

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given this, I do not understand why I need to be at 36j, 520f to get clouds from the kanger ni200 coils. at like 22j, 420f it is nothing. it is kicking it to 220f. of course those are .12. would someone please explain what I am doing wrong?
Nic_fix, give this method a try... He at first sets the Joules low and then works his way up. I do it a little different but similar.

My current coil that I am using right now is baselined out at .090 on my Lemo 2. I am now setting my Joules to only 8J on Standard mode and set my temp somewhere high depending on the ejuice. With VG I am finding that I have to go about 30-40F higher than a lower VG ratio. YMMV. So I might start out at say 530F. I then fire it watching it rise up to what it wants to level out to so I can get an idea of where things like to play out. If you hold down the fire button even longer it will start to creep up even more, but I am looking for that First Plateau that it settles down on at first which may only last about a second. I am doing this while just watching the mod and not vaping and trying to look at it with a mirror. That might actually work better but it is too inconvenient for me. lol

With the ejuice I am using now, which is high VG, I hit 480F where it seems to stabilize out even though my temp is set to 530F. I have found no good reason to go above the 480F with my current build since the ejuice doesn't seem to vaporize any better above that. Believe me I have tried. It just seems to waste ejuice turning into a gas rather than a vapor. So I then bring down my temp to 480F and start bringing up the joules to where the temperature doesn't jump around too much while watching the temp and adjusting the Joules. Repeating it again and again. If you set the joules too high the temp may jump as much as 50F higher than what you have it set at and it is bouncing all around trying to keep it at your temp even though you are giving it more power than it needs. I can guarantee you if you set it at 50J you will see the temp going crazy and not very stable at all. Too high a Joules setting and you are just having your mod have a fight with itself so to speak.

At a good joules setting I find that it may just hit the temp mark you set or maybe just jump about 4-6F at most more than your setting. In my current build I hit it at 21J. Once you see that you are reaching the optimum temperature and just the right amount of joules you will get the best vaporization of your ejuice. You can then set the mode to Soft, Powerful, Powerful + or just keep it on the Standard mode depending on your style or mood. That is just the ramp up or down and for your personal preference and only used for the first 2 seconds of your vape. With this technique I am finding great cloud production and able to distinctly enjoy all aspects of the flavor. Just an awesome experience IMHO.

I have also done this technique with my Delta II RBA and the Kanger Subtank Mini with RBA or with the Prebuilt Nickel coils. My experience has found that depending on the resistance of the coil, the build type, the resistance of the atty itself, and the ejuice, the numbers may play out to be much different. My temp settings have settled in anywhere from 380F to 540F depending on the combination of the variables. I am finding that the actual value in temperature may or may not be accurate in real world terms, but it is a constant with the same tank, build, wicking, ejuice, etc. There are just too many variables to just make a statement of which is the right number for me and every build or coil is potentially different. It is not a sleep number bed type of deal. lol :thumbs:

We are all learning how to use this technology and it is what it is which is not perfect. But if we can learn to use the tech to our advantage we may achieve our goals. In my case I want it safe, big clouds, and lots of flavor.

I am curious to see if anyone else has tried or can try this technique and see if their results are as promising as I have had. If someone else has had some other technique to find those magic numbers please share it so we can all learn and enjoy from it. :party:
I know, tell me, I must have OCD right? :rickroll:
 

JimScotty0

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I've noticed something else. While the M Class will fire at .048, it gives a low resistance message at .047. However, if I get a lock at .048 or .050ish, it will occasionally not fire and not display the low resistance message. Bug? Or safety mechanism because my ohms normally fluctuate slightly anyhow?
You are reaching a new low here as far as I have heard so far. It could be a short in your coil.
 

MsLoud

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So quiet here today. Everyone must be off enjoying their SXmini M for the weekend.
I read far more than I post but I it's going to take some getting use to the new forums. The white background kills my eyes...so I am lurking in short spurts as that's all my eyes can handle lol
 
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MidwestGuy

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Interesting method there @JimScotty0 ... Just tried this method on two different Lemo 2s with different liquids, identical builds. Seems to work pretty well for finding optimal settings for the particular setup! I'll continue with this method for the next couple of days. I'm going to try it on my VaporFlask too and see how the DNA40 handles it. Thanks for the great idea/method!
 
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dam718

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I've noticed something else. While the M Class will fire at .048, it gives a low resistance message at .047. However, if I get a lock at .048 or .050ish, it will occasionally not fire and not display the low resistance message. Bug? Or safety mechanism because my ohms normally fluctuate slightly anyhow?

The low resistance limit of the SXmini M Class is .05 ohms. I would say you're riding it too close to the edge for it to be reliable. Try putting an extra wrap or two on those coils and that should get you up high enough over the .05 limit that it fires every time.
 
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