If it works go with it. Just because YiHi recommends .065 doesn't mean it's an absolute requirement. I've had good results from .055 up to .22. As long as the coil is good, you should be good to go at .12
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SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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If it works go with it. Just because YiHi recommends .065 doesn't mean it's an absolute requirement. I've had good results from .055 up to .22. As long as the coil is good, you should be good to go at .12
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thanks. I was afraid I am asking for an explosion or something. apparently that is an unfounded fear. honestly it works like a champ. others had bad luck with the st. I am really pleased because building is out of the question for me. It is not a dripper but good enough for me. I don't know why cranking the st like that is taboo. I am pretty pleased with it. perhaps the first time I ever had good luck.
however, do you guys realize what is happening here? you should not be having this much trouble imo. y'all are spending more time tinkering hen vaping. something seems wrong with that to me. if you like to knock yourselves out but this seems really odd to me. it should not be this much hassle. unless I am completely off base. I don't know.
however, do you guys realize what is happening here? you should not be having this much trouble imo. y'all are spending more time tinkering hen vaping. something seems wrong with that to me. if you like to knock yourselves out but this seems really odd to me. it should not be this much hassle. unless I am completely off base. I don't know.
Can you, or anyone, tell me what settings you're using for the Kanger Nickel OCC coils?
I've set it to 450F and 30J, but it's still a somewhat cool vape.
Do you think going higher on the temp could lead to burned cotton?
Thanks for any input!
I don't mind tinkering.
I still do plenty of vaping once tinker time is over!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No it isn't!! I had a 0.18 build in a st mini and it was probably one of my favourite setups. Worked perfectly well at 400F and 18J.
I had an idea pull the rba section off and check the pin at the bottom of it with the holes and make sure it is tight
I'm running 30AWG Ni200 0.18ohm in my Lemo 2 right now and I'm loving life with this build. I personally don't think the device is nearly as accurate, but it's easy enough to adjust Joules and Temp to personal preference.
Same problem I have been having for 4 days! Then someone suggested I had a hot leg. I did the water test and sure enough there it was. Although I'm using a lemo 2, I believe you probably have the same issue. I just spent about 45 minutes making sure the build was 100%. 28G NI200,6 wraps, 3.0ID coming in at .08. I believe my biggest issue was that the legs weren't catching on the screws sufficiently enough because now, for the first time, I'm getting an amazing and consistently amazing vape. The STM RBA deck also has very tiny screws so I would say just take the time to make sure they are in there VERY securely. Also make sure you have more surface area on the actual coil wraps than you do length of legs. Good luck!
I haven't heard of the water test could you please explain? Today I broke it down completely to clean and made sure I put everything back together snug cause that was one of my origanl thoughts as well. But still having issues. Hopefully this water test will help me out, thanks again
Have you tried the nickel occ head yet, if so how are they?
shel, I am running it at 36j, 520f. powerful. fantastic vape. luke warm to me but very potent on flavor and volume. the higher the ohms the higher the j and f for most people. if you built .065 then I see why people are not where I am at. the st needs some power behind it. people are in fact using less than 25 j but the box says up to 45 watts and possibly beyond. per the box I am not high even though most people are less. regardless it works plenty good. no dry hits. anyways it is only 3.49v which tells all. I had previously pushed coils to 5v+. yes, I understand this is nickel. as many said, whatever works. good to know .12 is not too high. sure, it was designed for dna but I have it working great. I do not care for aspire but that is just imo.
Opher I was trying to write that in the car I remembered that one time I was holding that pin trying to remove the chimney and I accidently unscrewed it a little. I check it every time I pull it out now. The threaded part doesnt move but the pin below that unscrews and can cause it not to make a good contact. I couldn't figure out what was wrong I knew I had a good build and sure enough that is what it was.
No I have not. I don't really want to mess with them since they're contact points are held in place with a rubber grommet. Not really a solid connection for ni200 imo. But the base has worked perfect for me.
OK thanks, I was thinking the same thing. I just run the Kanthal occ heads if I get rushed or lazy.
Nic_Fix,
What prompts you to ask if 0.12 ohms is too high? If it is working for you and you are happy with the vape then there is no problem. Why exactly YiHi has recommended 0.065 is anyone's guess.
The only thing that would technically make sense to me is the fact that for the most power transfer and the best efficiency is to have the load resistance match the source (the Mod) impedance. So my guess is the SXmini M in temperature mode has an output impedance of 0.065 ohms and/or the impedance in the true sense of the term maybe a little more efficient with the Pulse Frequency Modulation they are using.
With all that fancy stuff out of the way if your current setup is working for you and you are happy with the vape there is no need to change anything IMHO. I truly believe that as long as you stay reasonably close to their recommendations you will be just fine and in my book 0.12 is definitely in a normal working range for the SXmini-M.
Keep in mind that the "Impedance" in the reactive sense of the word has no effect on something like the DNA40. So don't use values that are OK for the DNA40 i.e. 0.40 ohms on your SX and expect similar results. They are two completely different animals.
SXmini-m is PFM output in Temp mode
DNA40 is DC output in Temp mode.
the kanger coils actually are apparently made for the dna40 but they work fine on the sx mini. i asked about regulation before because i thought dc-dc was best. i don't know and i cannot tell any difference. the sx mini does not rattlesnake. i just picked up bits and pieces of that here but i don't know much about it. i can say i am very happy with the sx mini-m.
nic_fix:
As people reported hearing the so-called "rattlesnake" early on I said that I did not hear the sound.
Today, for the first and only, I heard what I would consider a rattle on the tail of a snake, that is " rattlesnake".
Here, however, is the bad news: the sound was DEFINITELY caused by a defective build, an extremely rare thing for me. Turns out after screwing/unscrewing the atty (an authentic K4) the 510 pin screw had come loose.
Tightened and the sound immediately disappeared, not to return...so far.
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I think it's more keen to observe the performance and not the specs. I can tell no difference to the dna40 in temp or any dc-dc in vw. I really did not think one person would bash this. I guess there are always some unhappy campers. of course afaik pfm is not a good thing but to me it is indistinguishable from any other top mod. I remain very happy with it. I mean it is even possible the ee's did not properly reverse engineer it. they probably did but that did not change the way it performs. okay, so I am defending it because I like it.
sorry about your bad build. at least it is rare for you. it seems to be a regular occurrence around here. perhaps in that respect it falls short. I use kangers coils so of course I do not have that problem.
ill tell you guys what. I will trade my denuded vs for a clean sx mini-m. not seriously but you get the idea. heck ill even throw in a hana and flask lol. I hope a little humor is okay here.
sorry about your bad build. at least it is rare for you. it seems to be a regular occurrence around here. perhaps in that respect it falls short. I use kangers coils so of course I do not have that problem.
ill tell you guys what. I will trade my denuded vs for a clean sx mini-m. not seriously but you get the idea. heck ill even throw in a hana and flask lol. I hope a little humor is okay here.
Nic
Thanks! I've now bumped mine to 475F, 36J and it's showing 3.54v.
I'm now getting great flavor, and much warmer vapor. I was worried that getting close to 500F could cause the cotton to burn, but I guess not!
This setup is now working really fantastic! If the coil lasts a fair amount of time (5-7 days?), I'll be thrilled!
So you haven't gotten any burnt flavor even at 500F? Maybe I should kick it up to that temp? Curious how long my battery will last at this setting. At my previous 26W, using Kanthol, .5 ohm, I was getting nearly nine full hours!
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