SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[tchavei]

Excuse me but aren't some of your people misusing / misinterpreting the TP concept here?

With a perfect wick and coil and plenty of juice supply, you can even take it at 500F and have cloud chaser like performance without burning the wick but that's not what TP was meant for. At 500F you're probably close to vaping exactly the same stuff TP was meant to avoid.

If you guys want cloud chasing experiences, get a mech mod, a sub ohm coil and a good wick and vape away old style.

In my eyes, TP was meant for two purposes:

1. Vape at a safe temperature that won't produce secondary chemicals

2. Maintain a certain coil temperature under the flash/burn point of your wick material even when it's almost dry (avoiding dry hits which are probably loaded with more stuff than just vapor)

Now do we know what the safe temperature is? No we don't because there aren't any real studies out there yet (or at least not enough) so I think it would be smart to assume that until proven otherwise, right now, the safest temperature is the lowest you can go with a satisfying vape.

If those 470-500F are real and working, great! But did you guys tested it with a damp / dry wick?

I don't know, maybe I'm just seeing this wrong. It's almost 3 am here.

My two cents
Tony

 

[nic_fix]

go for it. I am not getting burnt at 520 unless I try to. it is kicking it to 220 anyways. I think you will find it supreme. any higher and it will burn. this is great. 25r lasts 4 hours of actual runtime. meaning 4 hours of the fire button pressed. since you don't vape constantly that is about a day. the coils last me over a week and I am chain vaping them. try to use 100 vg. or high vg. plus clearer liquids make it last longer. none of the problems people are having building. you do have to but the coils though. this is funny, incidentally vapor shark is by far the cheapest. making it actually a good decision not to build imo. just put it at 520f, 36j, powerful(not p+). I think you will be very happy. if it does not suit you just back down. oh, I did not notice I assume you are using the ni200 coils. plus not a dud yet. they will diss the connection but it works fine.

 

[PapaPro]

5 mins and the show starts!!! Honest this time. Should be some M Class stuff too

 

[nic_fix]

tc, I think you are misunderstanding. for some reason on these coils it has to be set to 520 to get it to 220. 220 is certainly not high. I guess it is just some fluke. if I set like 420 it will kick it to 160 and that is not very pleasurable. they way it is working I have absolutely not bypassed tc. it would in fact burn if it was really 520. no doubt about that but it is not even close.

 

[tchavei]

tc, I think you are misunderstanding. for some reason on these coils it has to be set to 520 to get it to 220. 220 is certainly not high. I guess it is just some fluke. if I set like 420 it will kick it to 160 and that is not very pleasurable. they way it is working I have absolutely not bypassed tc. it would in fact burn if it was really 520. no doubt about that but it is not even close.

Oh ok. I was thinking you guys had completely lost it and were trying to mimic a mech mod. My bad then. I really need to get some sleep. :s

Tony

 

[derogg]

I have my Kayfun set to 500 F and 25 J. No burned cotton. Vaped to the dry wick warning. I think cotton with some air flow across it and still some residual juice can take a little more abuse. Anyway that has been my experience with TC.

 

[retird]

 

[Jbryant705]

nic_fix:

As people reported hearing the so-called "rattlesnake" early on I said that I did not hear the sound.

Today, for the first and only, I heard what I would consider a rattle on the tail of a snake, that is " rattlesnake".

Here, however, is the bad news: the sound was DEFINITELY caused by a defective build, an extremely rare thing for me. Turns out after screwing/unscrewing the atty (an authentic K4) the 510 pin screw had come loose.

Tightened and the sound immediately disappeared, not to return...so far.


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I'm confused. When you say rattlesnake are you talking about the sound it makes after hitting temp or something else? In pbusardo's review I got the understanding that was normal because of how it regulates temp with pulse-width modulation.

 

[chia]

go for it. I am not getting burnt at 520 unless I try to. it is kicking it to 220 anyways. I think you will find it supreme. any higher and it will burn. this is great. 25r lasts 4 hours of actual runtime. meaning 4 hours of the fire button pressed. since you don't vape constantly that is about a day. the coils last me over a week and I am chain vaping them. try to use 100 vg. or high vg. plus clearer liquids make it last longer. none of the problems people are having building. you do have to but the coils though. this is funny, incidentally vapor shark is by far the cheapest. making it actually a good decision not to build imo. just put it at 520f, 36j, powerful(not p+). I think you will be very happy. if it does not suit you just back down. oh, I did not notice I assume you are using the ni200 coils. plus not a dud yet. they will diss the connection but it works fine.

One week... Any gunk on the coil? I change like every 3 tanks bcos of gunk..

 

[Shel]

go for it. just put it at 520f, 36j, powerful(not p+). I think you will be very happy. if it does not suit you just back down.

nic
I am using the NI 200 OCC coils, I'm at 475F, 36J and Powerful, and loving it!

I guess my setting is nearly the same as yours, except that I'm at 475F and you're at 500F... not sure how often your device gets up above 475F, in any case!

Thanks for your help! If the coil lasts as long as you're getting out of 'em, I'm really thrilled with this setup!

Unbelievable flavor! Really rivals dripping!!!

 

[jazzvaper]

I'm confused. When you say rattlesnake are you talking about the sound it makes after hitting temp or something else? In pbusardo's review I got the understanding that was normal because of how it regulates temp with pulse-width modulation.

No, press the fire button: RATTLESNAKE sound!

If others were hearing this I cannot imagine being "okay" with it, or, waiting to see wha YiHi had to say about.


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[Vlad1]

For clarification the signal isn't PWM and Pbusardo corrected his statement on his Post-Review Follow-up. Taste Your Juice | THE SX-MINI M-CLASS BY YIHI REVIEW It is a modulating signal just like any other temp limiting devices. Since it is switching so fast about 50hz it's really not heard if your device is setup correctly or until your wick is dry and the temp limiting is switching on and off more slowly. At least I don't hear it and that's what I attribute it to.

 

[jwat82]

No, press the fire button: RATTLESNAKE sound!

If others were hearing this I cannot imagine being "okay" with it, or, waiting to see wha YiHi had to say about.


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What are your settings like when you're getting the rattlesnake? I've never run into it personally.

 

[nic_fix]

no I meant rattlesnake sound from some cheap pwm mods. the sx mini makes none. not even on tc. some say it does. you would think pfm would. the coils are gunk free 7-10 days and then just short and die. that is the point, it gets nowhere near 520f. it is being limited to 220f max. I don't understand this thing but that is how I have to set it. if I set 400f and it gave me 160f that would not be satisfactory. I don't understand how it works, I just set it where it does. I assure you I would not be puffing on 500+f. hopefully not even on a mech.

a billion lives. lets be honest. they are vapers. they have an agenda. ask a politician and they might have a different agenda. it is all relative. of course I stand behind it myself but as we all do I have an agenda too. I am not hating on our own sport I just mean to put it in perspective. for the life me I do not understand why they have it out for us and are busy legalizing weed. probably there is an agenda there too. any cause has an agenda. probably this one is hurting cigarette sales. you would think everyone had everyone else's best interest in mind. apparently not. I just wanted to point out different people have a different passion for a cause. of course I am with them and you guys. that's where I stand on the cause. no surprise there then.

 

[jazzvaper]

What are your settings like when you're getting the rattlesnake? I've never run into it personally.

Bog standard: 22 or 24 joules, 380F, on a 0.22 ohm coil


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[JimScotty0]

Just wanted to say to those who are having issues getting your set-ups right. Hang in there! This is such a steep learning curve. The past 24hrs have been the best for me as everything is finally clicked. I now can have consistency and enjoying by far, the best vape I have had in my short introduction to this tech. I am so very happy. Happy bunny I am.

But I have to say this is all too hard to get right for inexperienced people like me. I just want to stop smoking. The price of early adopting and things can only get better I know. But this tech is really for advanced users.

I was thinking about this and predict in the future we will need chips in our atty's. Maybe a spectrum analyst of the liquid in infa-red. Then the device can scan the liquid and prime for best results. Just a quick look into the future with my limited mind

So for now please hang in there as the M Class does indeed work. You just have to build a dozen builds to learn that curve and become an advanced user in a week. You can do it!

Take care all and keep helping each other out. I love that about this place

It is a learning curve for sure PapaPro! I am finding good results now adjusting my temp to just at the temp that the device likes to find itself and I am now doing that setting with 14J or 18J. Sometimes I need to readjust slightly on the temperature settings. I thing I am finding that is important is that your wicking is good because if it can't keep up with the vaping you are drawing it will give erratic results. Right now using Nicoticket at 467F using 14J in powerful mode on my Lemo 2. My build is 5/6 wraps of 28ga, 3mm, NI200 giving me around .071. Nice combination and working just wonderfully.

On my Lemo 2 I found that changing that wide bore drip tip to a more narrow bore such as on the original Lemo or the Aspire Nautilus is giving me still great clouds, but much nicer and warmer flavor.

 

[nic_fix]

do you have a dna40 mod? does it rattlesnake on that too? I am wondering if it is your build. there has been many problems getting it right. my understanding is any temp control chip pulses. normally the sx mini should not do that. this is not a $30 mod. in that case istick doesn't even do that. sans temp control of course. I don't know why that is happening but it does not appear to be inherent of this device.

 

[JimScotty0]

that calculation doesnt work with Ni because the resiatance increases with temp. So the current it is putting out is less than you might expect from ohms law in the resting state!

Very true! We need to calculate things differently when using NI200 or similar wire.

 

[nic_fix]

this just goes to show there are too many variables per each individual. I found a huge bore tip made a fantastic difference. the flavor and production increased ten fold for me.

 

[JimScotty0]

I tried both hardened/annealed ni200 from the UK vendor and a regular soft ni200. Getting the hardened wire 2nd, I did my first builds on the soft wire. After making 3 builds with the annealed, I actually prefer the soft stuff. It's easier to wrap, and I would swear it has better flavor (maybe the annealed stuff needs to be cleaned).

If you are having difficulty with soft wire, just make some loose spaced wraps. When finished, compress it, and they magically make a perfect spaced coil in 10 seconds. The wraps don't even need to be similar, but after squeezing it they are very even.

Suppose I'm lucky, but softness/care aside, I don't see any difference building with kanthal than with nickel. I'm using a Lemo too, which a lot of people seem to complain about.

My feelings too but I haven't tried the hardened stuff. I use the same spacing technique with my coils and it works perfectly for spacing.