One of the ways to see if you are having a hot leg issue is to try the water test.
Throw some new dry wicks on the build. re-establish the baseline resistance with the new wicks. Set temp to around 400F. Go around mid power on the Joules, 25 should be fine.
Then saturate your wicks with water. A LOT of water... LoL
Usually when I am doing this I have the wicks really long so I can kinda run the wicks under the faucet while I am testing for total saturation the whole time I am firing. You may not be able to do this with a vertical build like that.
What you should observe when you fire is that the temp should rise up to somewhere around 200-220 (boiling point of water) and stall out, never getting much higher... Maybe a little higher or a little lower, but it should most certainly NEVER reach 400.
If you're still popping off the temp control, observe your coils for any glowing anywhere. If they are glowing anywhere, that is the source of your rapid increase in resistance, and thus the SXmini believes the temp of the coil has also increased. The most common point I have found glowing is the legs. And that has only been with 30AWG wire, and only when I was using more than ~17-19J of power. 10-15J was fine. Twisted 30AWG didn't give me any issues at all, and I would suspect that 28AWG would fare better than 30 as well. All my builds were clean, non contact coils and shouldn't have experienced hot legs at all, but they did. Maybe that's the 30AWG nickel being a bit more sensitive to the conductivity of the juice than Kanthal or NiChrome is?
Also, high VG juices are going to need to be vaped at higher temps. So if you're using a 100% VG juice, I would say a temp from 500-550F sounds about normal. That's where the juice starts to vaporize. Use the Joules setting to control the heat and density of the vapor.
Throw some new dry wicks on the build. re-establish the baseline resistance with the new wicks. Set temp to around 400F. Go around mid power on the Joules, 25 should be fine.
Then saturate your wicks with water. A LOT of water... LoL
Usually when I am doing this I have the wicks really long so I can kinda run the wicks under the faucet while I am testing for total saturation the whole time I am firing. You may not be able to do this with a vertical build like that.
What you should observe when you fire is that the temp should rise up to somewhere around 200-220 (boiling point of water) and stall out, never getting much higher... Maybe a little higher or a little lower, but it should most certainly NEVER reach 400.
If you're still popping off the temp control, observe your coils for any glowing anywhere. If they are glowing anywhere, that is the source of your rapid increase in resistance, and thus the SXmini believes the temp of the coil has also increased. The most common point I have found glowing is the legs. And that has only been with 30AWG wire, and only when I was using more than ~17-19J of power. 10-15J was fine. Twisted 30AWG didn't give me any issues at all, and I would suspect that 28AWG would fare better than 30 as well. All my builds were clean, non contact coils and shouldn't have experienced hot legs at all, but they did. Maybe that's the 30AWG nickel being a bit more sensitive to the conductivity of the juice than Kanthal or NiChrome is?
Also, high VG juices are going to need to be vaped at higher temps. So if you're using a 100% VG juice, I would say a temp from 500-550F sounds about normal. That's where the juice starts to vaporize. Use the Joules setting to control the heat and density of the vapor.
