SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Vlad1]

Are you referring to voltage peak or did you measure the area under the curve? Or did you determine that all configurations had identical modulation? For example, for PWM, a 5V signal at a 30% duty cycle delivers less power than a 4V signal at a 50% duty cycle. Thus, for the variable frequency modulation of the SX Mini, one needs to confirm that standard/powerful/soft isn't adjusting the modulation as well as the voltage. Ideally, what one would have is a measurement of voltage and current over a few seconds for different configurations. Then you can compute the energy delivered over a period of time (e.g., 2 seconds) and see if there is a difference.

Yes the modulation is persistent and only varied the amplitude in the 3 sec samples I used. The samples I used in my calculations were essentially flat dc if ignoring the 1.2mS pulse that occurs at about 50Hz so for example the for the initial 2 sec in Powerful mode with a .139Ω at 20j the peak voltage was 2.27v and after that initial 2 sec period it ramps to 3.07v coming in at about 74%. Powerful+ initial 2 sec was at 2.32v and then ramped to 3.07v which is about 76%
I only measured 20j & 30J with the same load with the different modes but if you'd like to see what I'm talking about I can upload the screen captures.

 

[2legsshrt]

Well I will give it a try. I just can't believe that you have to be at .065 to get a good vape. Like I said I find the vape fantastic at .09 410 18J. I just built a coil with 29awg tempered wire at 6 wraps but that will be probably around .08. I will take one more coil off and see how close I come. I know that with 7 wraps I get .1 exactly. It also seems that steam engine will get you close but not accurate plus have heard tempered wire has a little lower resistance. We'll see damn pretty soon you'll have to go down to 2 wraps. 30awg would be about 3 wraps, pretty soon you'll end up with legs longer then the coil. IDK but you guys are smarter then me with this stuff so I will give it a try.

 

[Vlad1]

For you Lemo 2 lovers Rip just released a review of the Lemo 2. Leaky leaky leaky leaky juice all over.

IDK, he may have realized he did something wrong. It was only up for like 10 min about enough time for me to watch it then link it then it was removed. ????

He's uploaded a new one on Lemo 2 now.

Someone posted on the video to read the manual. So he did, figured out he had been screwing up for 2 weeks and then took the video down and appended to the end and changing his overall. lol

 

[MidwestGuy]

Well I will give it a try. I just can't believe that you have to be at .065 to get a good vape. Like I said I find the vape fantastic at .09 410 18J. I just built a coil with 29awg tempered wire at 6 wraps but that will be probably around .08. I will take one more coil off and see how close I come. I know that with 7 wraps I get .1 exactly. It also seems that steam engine will get you close but not accurate plus have heard tempered wire has a little lower resistance. We'll see damn pretty soon you'll have to go down to 2 wraps. 30awg would be about 3 wraps, pretty soon you'll end up with legs longer then the coil. IDK but you guys are smarter then me with this stuff so I will give it a try.

I'm using 30AWG, 8 wraps coming in at ~.185 ... working fantastically for me. It may not be accurate, but I dial it in the way I like it and it's darn good.

 

[2legsshrt]

I'm using 30AWG, 8 wraps coming in at ~.185 ... working fantastically for me. It may not be accurate, but I dial it in the way I like it and it's darn good.

Thats the way I feel about .09. IDK if the temp is accurate there but I know that it adjusts really fast holding it right at 410. Well not right at goes up to about 420 instantaniously adjust to around 400 up down but holding it really close to 410 which may not be the actual temp the way these guys are talking about it which I can sort of understand since it doesn't actually measure temp it measures changes in resistance and gives an educated estimate. All I can say it is one of the best vapes I have ever had. The flavor is better to me and the vapor is more then adequate comparing to Kanthal. I really like it better. Some don't but all I need to worry about is me. Still I will give it a try if it actually tastes and vapes better that would be unbelievable.

 

[2legsshrt]

It looks like you could hit pretty close to .065 with 7 wraps of 26awg NI200. That might be the wire to use. Of course Stealth is still out of it but when you get that big of a wire it is easy enough to work with regular I would imagine.

 

[jimho]

Boiling point of PG is ~371F
Boiling point of VG is ~554F

I use a 50/50 juice, and my temp levels out around 460F.

Now, I'm not sure if the scale would be linear as you add VG to PG as far as how it effects the boiling point, but doing some silly math I just calculated:

554-371 = 183 - So there is a difference of 183F between the boiling points.

If adding 50% VG to the PG increases the boiling point of the juice by half the delta, then that calculation would be

371 + (183 * .5) = 462.5F

So, **IF** it is a linear change, for your juice being 30PG/70VG

371 + (183 * .7) = 499.1F

Take that for what it's worth. Like I said, I'm not sure if it's a linear curve or not as you add VG to PG, but I'd say it's a close approximation.

Good/tempting analysis, but I don't think it works that way.

Here's a good discussion on the subject (there are others) How it works: coils, temperature, juice, etc. | E-Cigarette Forum

Not answers but sheds some light on the complexity.-

FWIW, I'm using 75VG/25PG and setting at 435F on RDAs

 

[nic_fix]

perhaps now I have a problem. the mini is getting very hot but it does not say overheat. this just happened. did not change anything from a week ago.
apparently the kanger coils are not a proper match for it. I have it set at 520 to get 220 max. I can see why .065 is important. had I only known. I am not sure what to do because I have also had bad luck with the other tc chip. same thing basically. which is odd because it was designed for that.the big problem was failures for me. yihi works fine as usual. it obviously just doe snot jive with .12. at least they are not .15 unless it is reading it wrong because it is so confused by this. if I were not disabled and could build I know things would have worked out much better for me. I a bummed.

 

[JimScotty0]

So finally getting a build to work was yet another fluke. I cannot seem to get a build to work without getting crazy hot spots. I don't know what to do at this point. It's frustrating because it provides such a good vape for me until it Starts getting jumpy with the temp etc. so as of now I'm back to using my Delta 2 in power mode (which is great in its own right) any suggestions for building with NI200 to eliminate hot spots?

If you have the Delta II RBA you can give that a try. I have been using it with a few builds so far and it has been working well for me in TC.

 

[JRizCR2]

any word on if yihi will sell replacement grips? i dont necessarily want a case, but my grips are starting to show scratches =(

 

[2legsshrt]

If you watch pbusardo's video he points out that the M-class is slightly taller, there's also probably other little differences.

I think it would be a loose fit but there could be a work around. My S is starting to wear the paint pretty thin it is noticable. I'd probably be willing to give it a try. I'm hoping if they come out with it it will have easy access to the battery.

 

[a tez]

It looks like you could hit pretty close to .065 with 7 wraps of 26awg NI200. That might be the wire to use. Of course Stealth is still out of it but when you get that big of a wire it is easy enough to work with regular I would imagine.

I just ordered 250ft of 26g from temco to try and get the .065ohm target resistance with a sufficient number of wraps. The email YiHi sent to me recommended a 3.5mm .065ohm coil. With 28g and 30g I wasn't getting enough flavor and vapor production at that resistance. Hopefully 26g is better.

 

[Yozhik]

Yes the modulation is persistent and only varied the amplitude in the 3 sec samples I used. The samples I used in my calculations were essentially flat dc if ignoring the 1.2mS pulse that occurs at about 50Hz so for example the for the initial 2 sec in Powerful mode with a .139Ω at 20j the peak voltage was 2.27v and after that initial 2 sec period it ramps to 3.07v coming in at about 74%. Powerful+ initial 2 sec was at 2.32v and then ramped to 3.07v which is about 76%
I only measured 20j & 30J with the same load with the different modes but if you'd like to see what I'm talking about I can upload the screen captures.

If you could upload the screen captures, that would be quite helpful.

 

[a tez]

He's uploaded a new one on Lemo 2 now.

Someone posted on the video to read the manual. So he did, figured out he had been screwing up for 2 weeks and then took the video down and appended to the end and changing his overall. lol

Lol I knew he screwed up

 

[Mhansel411]

If you have the Delta II RBA you can give that a try. I have been using it with a few builds so far and it has been working well for me in TC.

I do have the RBA which I have been building on for about 2 months with no problems using kanthal.I certainly believe there's something wrong with how I'm wrapping my coils with the Ni200. Not sure if the wire int straightened enough and maybe too many kinks and what not causing these hot spots. I'll be back at it in the morning though.

 

[Yozhik]

So I just got the Lemo 2 working on my Sx Mini (though it's 510 pin on the atomizer base needed a some love taps from a rubber mallet to ensure a connection). Based on my initial impression, I have to say this may become my favorite set up on the SX Mini. Solid and easy to work on build deck, more airflow then I need, and it has a fill port (that is kinda-sorta-awesome if it works out well). I just wished it didn't look so boring, but how it works is more important I guess.

 

[jimho]

Well that makes me sad [emoji17]. What drippers do you recommend for nickel? Or should I just get a subtank? Lol

Chiming in on this one.....
So far, I've built on Tugboat, Mutation X3 and Derringer with Nickel. They all work great- The derringer is a bit warmer, the Mutation X has the most airflow (when wide open) and the Tugboat is in the middle. The build deck on the Mutation X is a bit easer than the Tugboat and the derringer is smaller with a smaller well (still easy to build on). They all will leak out the vents if you overfill and tip them sideways.... I don't have a favorite among the 3- all are originals (not clones).... I suggest the Derringer if you want smallest size, the Mutation X is easiest to use, and the tugboat is the most solidly built- one issue with the tugboat is the 510 connector is a bit long and won't screw down flush on a Provari, but not a problem on the SXmini or Vapor Shark.

I also have a Kenedy V2 clone on deck that I picked up last week on a recommendation, looks interesting, vents from the bottom- but not sure it's going to work well with single coil nickel builds-maybe I'll get to it this weekend.....

 

[Braddahbill]

Who did you get them from and I wonder if they will start making one for the SX. They would be crazy not too. Looks good the way you did it. They could sell a ton of them, I know I loved my shark skin. That great the way you ended up doing the bottom because they don't really recommend charging with the USB. I wondered how you were going to do it. Didn't see it after you came up with a final. I just charged my rDNA with the port. Great job. You should sell them your idea.

Click the link. Sweet-Vapes.com

 

[jimho]

any word on if yihi will sell replacement grips? i dont necessarily want a case, but my grips are starting to show scratches =(

Also, both jwraps and vaporskinz have skins if all you want to do is cover/protect from scratches. I'm trying to decide between the two for mine.

How is everyone's silver(narrow section) holding up? Mine seems to be fine- only the sides/grip are showing scratches so far

 

[chia]

So finally getting a build to work was yet another fluke. I cannot seem to get a build to work without getting crazy hot spots. I don't know what to do at this point. It's frustrating because it provides such a good vape for me until it Starts getting jumpy with the temp etc. so as of now I'm back to using my Delta 2 in power mode (which is great in its own right) any suggestions for building with NI200 to eliminate hot spots?

I feel you mate.. Sometimes it just happens.. In fact I had a build last nite, 3-4 wraps 27 Ni200 non contact. Everything tested fine, wick it fill up tank and vape.. Wham! Nasty! Took it apart and found I got hot spots... Check and recheck, no short no contact, resistance reading all correct, but when I fire it up it starts to glow! Lol..
Oh well no biggie.. Just tear it up and rebuild.. I've learn a while back the more frustrated the more difficult it gets...