Yes tinkering is a must. I'm still constantly getting hot spots and sending my temp readings all kinds of whacky. So I finally had enough of putting everything together and then testing, now I just build, then drip drops of juice to identify if there is going to be an issue before I go through the hassle of wicking and what not to then find an issue.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Yes tinkering is a must. I'm still constantly getting hot spots and sending my temp readings all kinds of whacky. So I finally had enough of putting everything together and then testing, now I just build, then drip drops of juice to identify if there is going to be an issue before I go through the hassle of wicking and what not to then find an issue.
They don't work very well for me I'm afraid! Nothing but hassle...
it is a given that different folks have different luck. too many variables here. the flask does not last "me" much longer,ymmv. the kanger coils are splendid for "me",ymmv. I just went to a coin shop. this is going to be another ymmv. tried all the modern Chinese coins. worked but not better than usa coins. the Mexicans saved the day with diez pesos. again, that is ymmv but it fits like a glove for "me". you honestly cannot compare experiences across the board with any of this stuff. one mans rubbish is another man's gold. incidentally the gold mex coin was too expensive to use as a screwdriver imo. I hope we can agree our results are not universal. this stuff is just too complex. it is nice to rely experiences for a basis though. I hope I am right and the way I view this does not upset anyone. it's just my opinion. take it with a grain of salt if you must.
Home Depot. Washer bin. No shortage of washers that will work as an opening tool.
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Are you referring to voltage peak or did you measure the area under the curve? Or did you determine that all configurations had identical modulation? For example, for PWM, a 5V signal at a 30% duty cycle delivers less power than a 4V signal at a 50% duty cycle. Thus, for the variable frequency modulation of the SX Mini, one needs to confirm that standard/powerful/soft isn't adjusting the modulation as well as the voltage. Ideally, what one would have is a measurement of voltage and current over a few seconds for different configurations. Then you can compute the energy delivered over a period of time (e.g., 2 seconds) and see if there is a difference.
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IPV Mini Silicone Case
That was me. You have to do a little cutting and the fit is not perfect, but it works and won't peel the paint when you take it off.
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Maybe you just need to find the right atty that works for you. My first 2 weeks I built on all 3 versions of the Lemo and have just added the Sub Tank to the rotation. The temp control builds have been just as warm and thick as the kanthal builds if not better. Yes, there were a few bumps along the way, but they were sorted out quickly.
My suggestion to anyone is to get an atty designed to run a single coil. Once you get used to the learning curve of the SX Mini and have no problems then move on to a dual coil device if you desire.
Thats me too Vlad. I just wrap up 7 wraps on my coil master and stretch it out squeeze it back till I'm happy with the spacing. Then put it on which I've found so much easier since my wife got me a big magnifying glass with a light on a stand so I can see that the wire is trapped good. The Kanger STM has worked great so far going to do another build and put it on the M that I have and break it in a little if it works like it should it will be already for my M that gets here tomorrow. I ordered 6 more HE2's I found I got 22,500 Joules with them and less sag when I use it since I got the M then the AW 2200mAh which I get 18,000 Joules with. Those HE2's are really good and 1/2 the price of the AW's but can't use them in my Vari 2.5's. If I would have known that a few months ago I could've saved myself some money cause I got 10 of the AW's to replace my 1 1/2 year old AW's which work just fine on my rDNA40 which I sold to pay for my 2nd M. Gave a friend a really good deal and I know he will get it to work right because he is really good with builds, he is a modder so even if he wants to upgrade it to the atty lock he can do it himself. VS wants 100 bucks to do it. Plus it is still on warranty. got kind of wordy here sorry bout that.
Who did you get them from and I wonder if they will start making one for the SX. They would be crazy not too. Looks good the way you did it. They could sell a ton of them, I know I loved my shark skin. That great the way you ended up doing the bottom because they don't really recommend charging with the USB. I wondered how you were going to do it. Didn't see it after you came up with a final. I just charged my rDNA with the port. Great job. You should sell them your idea.
got an 8 cent washer. Mexican coin is a little better but I picked too large of a washer.
about me saying this is very complex stuff. a while back someone stated the tank leaks, not the mod. then how do I explain st leaks like a sieve on any of my other mods but not sx mini s or m. there is luck involved too. there are just too many variables in this sport for everyone to get the same results. I am not trying to say anything just pointing this out as I see it. of course with luck involved some people will in fact get the same results. perhaps not if they try to. I feel temp control is worth the effort. even though I am using st coils. it is a big milestone imo. well, as of now. just wait.
the m's paint seems more robust than the s. the rdna pretty much requires the shark skin. unfortunately I did not know that. if you are going to drop it, indeed a case is in order.
about me saying this is very complex stuff. a while back someone stated the tank leaks, not the mod. then how do I explain st leaks like a sieve on any of my other mods but not sx mini s or m. there is luck involved too. there are just too many variables in this sport for everyone to get the same results. I am not trying to say anything just pointing this out as I see it. of course with luck involved some people will in fact get the same results. perhaps not if they try to. I feel temp control is worth the effort. even though I am using st coils. it is a big milestone imo. well, as of now. just wait.
the m's paint seems more robust than the s. the rdna pretty much requires the shark skin. unfortunately I did not know that. if you are going to drop it, indeed a case is in order.
Yihi is saying they are releasing a silicone case for the M class in mid May. But informed me they probably won't do one for the S class. This makes, no sense to me. If anything the S class could use it more! (Form factor) But no matter, wraps are cosmetic, like personalized custom paint. They don't really protect like a well designed silicone case...My new wrap for the M
I think most people should read and listen to this post from dannyben if they have the SXmini M class . If Practiced, this thread would have more pictures of very cool SXmini rigs !
that's obviously why it is not working properly with the st. I wish they had made a more prominent point about .065 and maybe I would be without one. on the other hand it is hard to imagine it has such a narrow margin of accuracy. .065 or else! that is a real shame(for me). it is working, sort of. dna did not like me either. I might have to forego temp control until the next round. I am unhappy right now.
I was wondering something. is the m a different form factor than the s? have both right here look about the same to me.
I was wondering something. is the m a different form factor than the s? have both right here look about the same to me.
Great explanation Dam718! My next build I have to give that a try. I guess what it comes down to is you want the heat in the coil itself where the wicking is at and not in the legs where the resistance will go up and the TC will shut down additional heat that the coil actually needs and not the legs. Good deal!
If you watch pbusardo's video he points out that the M-class is slightly taller, there's also probably other little differences.
But don't forget Phil did those tests when running at 50J. It could be at that setting the mod was already maxed out and can't go beyond the 50J to produce the higher initial settings. I don't know for sure, but that is just a guess. That would be a good question for Yihi to explain about the mode settings in TC mode.
What that is telling me is that with TC you really want the resistance to and heat to come from the coil itself and not from the legs or the posts. Something to consider when choosing an atty and the type of build when using TC.
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