I know I mentioned it before... I think another advantage of the SX350J over the DNA40 is its low resistance limit of .05 Ohms... Not suggesting that .05 should be your target resistance, but it gives a lot more headroom for fluctuation compared to the dna. If your coil dips below .1 Ohm that's a no go on the DNA40.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I know I mentioned it before... I think another advantage of the SX350J over the DNA40 is its low resistance limit of .05 Ohms... Not suggesting that .05 should be your target resistance, but it gives a lot more headroom for fluctuation compared to the dna. If your coil dips below .1 Ohm that's a no go on the DNA40.
And I guess this has been mentioned before but TC with coils of that kind of resistance are a bag of hurt. A 0.01 difference on 0.05 ohm is considerable whereas it is much less of an issue against a decent 0.2ohm build and will cause a lot less trouble. There really is no need to build around 0.1 ohm even with Ni! Just my $0.02...
No need but sometimes a pain in the ..... No matter what I do, Each wrap on my builds adds only 0.01 Ohm to the final resistance (should be 0.012 I think). Anyway, trying to stick a 28awg with 13 wraps in a relative small deck like on an erlp is a challenge and you end up with 0.13Ohms tops. I already have some 30awg on order. Hoping to get Ohms more into the 0.2x range.
Tony
Thank you both, you're just saying all of this to make me spend more money
No, but really, thanks for easing my mind a bit. I don't use drippers, those days are kind of gone to me, only rebuildable tanks, or tank really (erlk). So that's pretty much one of the only if not the only atty that would sit on top of it.
I gotta say, the looks are phenomenal, I'm having a spasm of G.A.S. right now, edging on the buy button.
Go on...you know you want to really. Its a good deal! This thing is the mutts nuts mate! Even if you only use as a VV/VW. Its a bloody bugatti veyron of mods!
Thanks everyone. I was so tempted to buy this. Had all of my information filled out on varitube. I sat there for a minute with my thumb hovering over the final button. And there goes the tap.
I knew this thread was a trap. I've avoided this thread for a while knowing the hypnosis effects it has. But it's too late. My sxmini s class and dna40 mods will be lonely now.
I knew this thread was a trap. I've avoided this thread for a while knowing the hypnosis effects it has. But it's too late. My sxmini s class and dna40 mods will be lonely now.
No need but sometimes a pain in the ..... No matter what I do, Each wrap on my builds adds only 0.01 Ohm to the final resistance (should be 0.012 I think). Anyway, trying to stick a 28awg with 13 wraps in a relative small deck like on an erlp is a challenge and you end up with 0.13Ohms tops. I already have some 30awg on order. Hoping to get Ohms more into the 0.2x range.
Tony
I know exactly what you mean.I reckon there is a market for a RTA with a Ni-friendly build deck - widely spaced 2 post with a nice air slot underneath. Really y solid connections that secure soft wire well etc etc...Ti is the answer of course but I know you are on that already! Did the G1 arrive yet btw?
An rta without the adjustable 510 pin. I mean really, why do we need it when mods have an adjustable or spring loaded 510. I have yet to see a temp control mod without this. Then again, I wouldn't even bother with looking at cheap clones.
Not yet. Last I heard, my package was being decontaminated at some nuclear waste recovery silo. You know how dangerous that stuff can be.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I really dislike USPS this year, they are starting to annoy me never hitting their estimated delivery dates.
I ordered some tempered 28 and 30 ga wire as per tchavei's recommendation to another user.
In the meantime, I had messed around trying to maximize my wraps on the Master of Clouds 26 ga. I have 16 wraps (about the max I could fit in my vertex v2) and it comes out to .126 when I lock the resistance. But I notice that it shows .007 resistance lock quite often. I have no rhyme or reason why it does that despite not touching anything. I wicked the .126 build but didn't juice it up and locked the resistance at .007. It kept giving me the same numbers over and over until I shut the unit down and turned it back on which it locked it at .126 again. Trying to figure out why its doing that. .007 must be some error code or something because I have seen that number on quite a few different builds ranging from 8 wraps all the way to the 16.
In the meantime, I had messed around trying to maximize my wraps on the Master of Clouds 26 ga. I have 16 wraps (about the max I could fit in my vertex v2) and it comes out to .126 when I lock the resistance. But I notice that it shows .007 resistance lock quite often. I have no rhyme or reason why it does that despite not touching anything. I wicked the .126 build but didn't juice it up and locked the resistance at .007. It kept giving me the same numbers over and over until I shut the unit down and turned it back on which it locked it at .126 again. Trying to figure out why its doing that. .007 must be some error code or something because I have seen that number on quite a few different builds ranging from 8 wraps all the way to the 16.
JJ, sorry to hear your still having trouble. Without seeing the build it's hard to tell what is wrong. You may want to try a build on a different atty or try wrapping a different diameter coil. Then again, maybe the different gauge wire you ordered will fix the problem.
Don't want to get me started on them I could fill up this thread with some of the BS they pull. They're supposed to deliver my Ni200 package today if they don't screw up. So I should be able to start working with the TC today hopefully. Think I'll be doing them in the Subtank mini as I don't really have a lot of rda / rta to choose from. Think the Atomic's are to small and the Fogger's would just be a pita. Anyone have a good build in the Kanger Subtank min with 28g Ni200?
I have a single 28g ni200 coil in my fogger v4.4 right now, it was a bit tricky to get the wicking down so it wouldn't gurgle / leak, but its good now. I can post a pic of the build if you want.
STmini works well, I think I did 10-12 wraps of 28g on a 3mm bit. Super easy to capture and secure the leads on that one, way easier than some of my RDAs that like to eat ni200 coils when I tighten down too much.
I haven't personally worked with Ni200 wire yet but from what I've read it's temperamental and requires a lot more attention to contact points than other wires. If it were mine I would clean all the contacts on the 510 and make sure the positive pin protruded enough to make a good solid connection and I would make certain that screws holding the coil were good and tight. I know Rip recommended grub screws on one of his videos. I may be wrong but I think some of the problem comes in when the wire heats up and expands & contracts when it cools back down. I've seen some contact coils being used with Ni200 but if I were having problems I would make sure each coil was not making contact with any others. Hope that helps.
Its just a simple single coil 16 wrap build. I have to modify the wire a tad by making 2 80 degree bends because the amount of wraps pushes way past the positive post. The build stretches the entire deck. I almost feel like buying a Hobo or something similar with 4 posts but after $200 in juice and $200 for this mod....
I just built another 16-18 wrap and it came out to be .126. I waited 2 minutes and re registered the resistance again and it showed up .007. The .007 stays on the mod for awhile so I just lock the device then unlock it to get off that screen. It did the .007 through three cycles of locking and unlocking. Then I turned the device off completely then back on and .126.
Getting quite a headache and before I go to work I leave with dual kanthal coil builds instead of how finnicky this nickel is working for me.
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