SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[jazzvaper]

I'm just trying to understand how the sx mini m works and get a correct idea of what's going on with all these reports. Anyone stumbling across this thread without analysing every post might get the impression the mod might not be that accurate as advertised. I've been reading this thread since the beginning and yet I got confused about what was happening lately.

It would be presumptuous on my part as a non sx mini m owner trying to write a step by step troubleshooting guide for the true legit owners

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Nota bene: I am quoting your entire post this time:

They are different devices in terms of design, operation, and, from my POV, performance.

This is my 2nd time saying it: We should treat each accordingly.

And, I appreciate your admission, T. Try as you may no one is going to "hate" you for not owning an SX....yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JimScotty0]

Lmao. I want to buy the lemo 2 so bad but have read so many mixed reviews on it. I have been on the fence about this decision for 3 weeks and can't seem to pull the trigger. I keep reading the flavor is muted, and there is too much going on between the center pin and the coil so the nickel builds suck.

Just annoyed cuz I read so many good reviews for the lemo 2, then read so many negative reviews of people wanting to like the lemo 2 so bad but cant.

I drilled out everything on my lemo 1 so I already have much more airflow than stock, and the nickel builds are amazing.

I have had some of my best vaping experiences so far with the Lemo 2 and the SXM using NI200 for about 3 weeks now using it every day and night with several builds. I use 100% VG or 50/50 PG/VG also with no wicking issues. My experience has been stellar but I know not everybody has had such a good experience.

 

[Vlad1]

I'm just trying to understand how the sx mini m works and get a correct idea of what's going on with all these reports. Anyone stumbling across this thread without analysing every post might get the impression the mod might not be that accurate as advertised. I've been reading this thread since the beginning and yet I got confused about what was happening lately.

It would be presumptuous on my part as a non sx mini m owner trying to write a step by step troubleshooting guide for the true legit owners

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Ahh, I see. I must have misread something along the way. I thought you were wanting to put together a "Troubleshooting Guide for the SXmini M" Which by the way I think would be a great idea to have a sticky on the first page with such a guide for current and new owners alike. Any volunteers to put it together?

 

[tchavei]

^^^^ With the significant EXCEPTION that there is no "refinement" on the SXMini. Thus no change is to be expected, meaning none that the device responds to...AUTOMATICALLY.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm. I think we all are confusing some things here. Let me explain

Ask anyone what bureaucracy is and you have a 99% chance that the person will reply with something in line with "endless paper trails, long waiting times, bad service".

Truth is that bureaucracy is a good thing. It means organization and process. Problem is that over the years, people have associated bureaucracy with flaws in the bureaucratic process so today, the word has a bad meaning.

I believe the same thing is happening to the dna refinement mode. It's not a bad thing when it correctly detects a real resistance change and refines to the new correct value. The problem is that many times, the so called refinement detects 'apparent' resistance changes which aren't correct because they immediately disappear once you hit the fire button and the resistance dropps back to it's real value.

However, there are certain times where there are real resistance shifts and these might trick the sx mini m in assuming a resistance that isn't correct anymore which would explain why some people are having problems if they don't pair the atty and mod properly or don't repeat the process from time to time.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[jazzvaper]

Hmm. I think we all are confusing some things here. Let me explain

Ask anyone what bureaucracy is and you have a 99% chance that the person will reply with something in line with "endless paper trails, long waiting times, bad service".

Truth is that bureaucracy is a good thing. It means organization and process. Problem is that over the years, people have associated bureaucracy with flaws in the bureaucratic process so today, the word has a bad meaning.

I believe the same thing is happening to the dna refinement mode. It's not a bad thing when it correctly detects a real resistance change and refines to the new correct value. The problem is that many times, the so called refinement detects 'apparent' resistance changes which aren't correct because they immediately disappear once you hit the fire button and the resistance dropps back to it's real value.

However, there are certain times where there are real resistance shifts and these might trick the sx mini m in assuming a resistance that isn't correct anymore which would explain why some people are having problems if they don't pair the atty and mod properly or don't repeat the process from time to time.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Gotcha!

I am not criticizing or judging "refinement" as some have done.

I am making a scientific, or, methodological, statement: No "refinement", therefore no way of (accurately) measuring changes in resistance once the baseline has been set, whether the baseline is 0.065 or 0.25. Good or bad is interesting, but irrelevant. (No offense intended.)

 

[JimScotty0]

Ahh, I see. I must have misread something along the way. I thought you were wanting to put together a "Troubleshooting Guide for the SXmini M" Which by the way I think would be a great idea to have a sticky on the first page with such a guide for current and new owners alike. Any volunteers to put it together?

Sounds like you just volunteered Vlad! Only kidding, but that is a great idea. Those of us who have been using the SXM with various tanks or even drippers with success have been through the ropes and understand that if even one step is not done properly it could totally ruin your experience and can certainly be very frustrating. But if you follow the process checking along the way your enjoyment is just great. Once you understand the steps and follow them it gets easier and very consistent build after build and tank after tank.

 

[tchavei]

Gotcha!

I am not criticizing or judging "refinement" as some have done.

I am making a scientific, or, methodological, statement: No "refinement", therefore no way of (accurately) measuring changes in resistance once the baseline has been set, whether the baseline is 0.065 or 0.25. Good or bad is interesting, but irrelevant. (No offense intended.)

None taken. Just wanted to point out that on occasions refinement might be a good thing. My mutation x ALWAYS reads a much higher resistance right after a build but after 30 minutes it refines to the correct value and never ever moves or shifts after that. My erlp reads ALWAYS the correct resistance after a rebuild and never shifts afterwards. Go figure.

I guess a perfect build is important in both technologies.

4 am, have to go work in a few hours. Time to hit the sheets. Thank you all for a productive debate.

Cheers.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[JimScotty0]

Hmm. I think we all are confusing some things here. Let me explain

Ask anyone what bureaucracy is and you have a 99% chance that the person will reply with something in line with "endless paper trails, long waiting times, bad service".

Truth is that bureaucracy is a good thing. It means organization and process. Problem is that over the years, people have associated bureaucracy with flaws in the bureaucratic process so today, the word has a bad meaning.

I believe the same thing is happening to the dna refinement mode. It's not a bad thing when it correctly detects a real resistance change and refines to the new correct value. The problem is that many times, the so called refinement detects 'apparent' resistance changes which aren't correct because they immediately disappear once you hit the fire button and the resistance dropps back to it's real value.

However, there are certain times where there are real resistance shifts and these might trick the sx mini m in assuming a resistance that isn't correct anymore which would explain why some people are having problems if they don't pair the atty and mod properly or don't repeat the process from time to time.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I think what it comes down to is that TC technology is a bit temperamental. YMMV If you have a connection issue it will just be magnified with TC much more than using regular wattage mode. Variations in resistance will prove to be very inconsistent using any TC device. DNA may try to adjust and Yihi relies on a locked in resistance but both expect the connections to be solid.

 

[vegaslineman]

Mostly a lurker but thought I would add my observations.
Had the sx mini for about a month, grey and silver and paint is crap on it so it's not only the black with issues.
I have the lemo, lemo2, goblin, stm and atlantis. Rebuilt the atlantis and does work but not well, forget the issues but think I wrote it off as long leg issues. All my builds have been under .12 but I try to keep them at .07-.09. I have 28, 30 and 32g nickel. 30 and 32 seemed to hard to work with unless I twisted 2 or more together. I notice whenever I use twisted or a dual coil build I have to lower the temp, for example the goblin dual coil 28 think its a .09 and run the temp at 320 at 40j, gives killer flavor and a very warm vape. The temp is low but the device wont really get it any higher. Probably uneven coil issue. But with 4-32g twisted at .07 I also run it at 350f 35J, not a real warm vape but perfect for me. Also with twisted 30g I had to run it at lower temps. So I was thinking something with twisted wire might skew the calculations. Anyone else noticed this

 

[dr g]

Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:

Knowing that:

1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value

2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1

Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?

Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?

I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I'm going to tell you what I have found which is not at all a popular fact around here. The SX J board is simply not that accurate or consistent across all power levels, builds, or users. It is common for it to exceed set temp, and the accuracy of the displayed temp is all over the place.

I am seriously considering the Mini, but I am questioning the accuracy. I read about so many people vaping at real low temperatures. I just saw a Busardo video and he was vaping at 280°.

Yeah it's not that uncommon for weird numbers like that to come up in SX Mini groups. Various reasons for that but even properly calibrated you often get numbers that are way out of whack.

 

[a tez]

Just bought the Smoke TCT tank. Gonna see how it works on my DNA40s and SX Mini.

TCT Tank, Stainless

They released the replacement coils now as well, they weren't available the other day when this tank was posted in this thread.

TCT N2 Core Coils, Dual Coil

 

[JimScotty0]

Mostly a lurker but thought I would add my observations.
Had the sx mini for about a month, grey and silver and paint is crap on it so it's not only the black with issues.
I have the lemo, lemo2, goblin, stm and atlantis. Rebuilt the atlantis and does work but not well, forget the issues but think I wrote it off as long leg issues. All my builds have been under .12 but I try to keep them at .07-.09. I have 28, 30 and 32g nickel. 30 and 32 seemed to hard to work with unless I twisted 2 or more together. I notice whenever I use twisted or a dual coil build I have to lower the temp, for example the goblin dual coil 28 think its a .09 and run the temp at 320 at 40j, gives killer flavor and a very warm vape. The temp is low but the device wont really get it any higher. Probably uneven coil issue. But with 4-32g twisted at .07 I also run it at 350f 35J, not a real warm vape but perfect for me. Also with twisted 30g I had to run it at lower temps. So I was thinking something with twisted wire might skew the calculations. Anyone else noticed this

I have been using twisted 26ga NI200 with 28ga Kanthal for about 10 days now with excellent results in vapor quality. Right now I am running 440F with 20J getting a warm vape with excellent clouds & flavor using a max VG at the moment. Earlier today I was using about a 30/70 PG/VG at 400F, 23J with the same coil I have had on for the full 10 days and now on my 3rd wicking. The drawback I find with the thicker wire and with the additional Kanthal is a longer ramp up time but the flavor is worth it.

At first I was using the post holes with this coil on the Lemo 2 and I knew I must have had hot legs and additional resistance. Using the same coil I pulled the wire out of the post holes and wrapped it around the screws instead. It resulted in a lower resistance at around .072 ohms instead of .084 with a shorter ramp up to be more closer to normal. Maybe 2 seconds more than using 28ga NI200 alone, but I am now used to the lag since the vape is worth it to me. With the thicker wire I have found that I am using between 20-24J to give the SXM enough power to work the thicker wire and get a warm vape. On 28ga I usually run at 14J.

Sometimes I do see a lower maximum temperature I can get with a build and the ejuice does make a considerable difference what temperature I run at even with the next tank of a different ejuice. I have also found that when the wick gets clogged up my temps are not able to go up higher and the flavor gets muted. A fresh wicking works like a charm when that happens.

To setup with this build and thick ejuice I set my Joules to around 23J with my temperature around 500F. After taking a few deep pulls I will then just keep my finger on the fire button and watch to see where mod temperature rises steadily to and then set my temperature to that stable number. Right now it is 440F but I do this with every ejuice, new coil, new wicking, atty change, etc. as those factors play a very important part in the equation as I have found it.

Another thing I regularly do is to check/set my baseline resistance whenever the mod has sat for a while such as first thing in the morning, or before a break at work when I know the mod, coil, tank are at the same temperature. Most of the time I find no more than a .003 variance from the last check. Usually it is .001 or .002. I do notice an increase a bit more as the wick gets clogged up with some of the thicker ejuice I may use. I have observed that recalibrating to even a .003 difference does greatly improve the accuracy of the SXM and my vape is much improved.

This technique has been working quite well for me for some time now with minor refinements being made as I gain more experience using the SXM and understanding the nature of builds I make.

 

[wrice4]

I am currently running two Lemo 2 tanks. One on vs rdna other is on sx mini m. Both set at 350 temp 25 watts on a .09 - .1 nickel build. Both devices work flawlessly and flavor is great. Not Hugh clouds but good flavor and good temp control. However....the sx mini is much smoother power and more refined. But Lemo2 is a good tank. Having said this, I still prefer the sub tank. Lemo just doesn't hold enough juice.

Bought a lemo 2 today lol.

 

[wrice4]

I have had some of my best vaping experiences so far with the Lemo 2 and the SXM using NI200 for about 3 weeks now using it every day and night with several builds. I use 100% VG or 50/50 PG/VG also with no wicking issues. My experience has been stellar but I know not everybody has had such a good experience.

Thanks for this, ordered one today.

 

[wrice4]

Just got my version 2 rba for my atlantis 2. The hole sizes, on the center pin (7/64), were 2 drill bit sizes smaller than the stock atlantis (3/32 drill bit). So I got my vice, and my drill and drilled out the holes to the same stock holes ok the atlantis 2 coils.

Wrapped a 5 standard wrap of 28g wire, wicked it, and came out to .059 ohms. Hitting it on the mini at 25 joules at 430 degrees and it vapes amazing. I even went up to 475 degrees and at the second largest air hole , on the atlantis, it vapes like a boss. I could go to a higher temp and open up the air control Even higher but 430 is a good spot for me. The only problem with the rba for the atlantis 2 is a very small build deck.

Can't wait for my lemo 2 to come in cuz that deck can handle a big diameter compared to the rba on the atlantis 2.

 

[drewburton48]

I'm going to tell you what I have found which is not at all a popular fact around here. The SX J board is simply not that accurate or consistent across all power levels, builds, or users. It is common for it to exceed set temp, and the accuracy of the displayed temp is all over the place.



Yeah it's not that uncommon for weird numbers like that to come up in SX Mini groups. Various reasons for that but even properly calibrated you often get numbers that are way out of whack.

I love this device but it's about time we had a reality check. I know it's hard when it's this amount of money has been invested in a device. It's very good but by no means perfect and the sooner we all realise this the better.....I find the battery life awful
......anyone admit this too?
Question: Is TP on this device overstressing my batteries and causing premature failure?


Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[a tez]

I love this device but it's about time we had a reality check. I know it's hard when it's this amount of money has been invested in a device. It's very good but by no means perfect and the sooner we all realise this the better.....I find the battery life awful
......anyone admit this too?
Question: Is TP on this device overstressing my batteries and causing premature failure?


Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Yea battery life really is not good at all. The only other single 18650 TC mod I have is a Hana V4 and it gets 1.5x or more of the amount of usage on a VTC4. I know the SX350J has more settings and a lot more info showing on the screen. I don't know if that is why the battery life is worse than the DNA40, or if the DNA40 is just that more efficient on power consumption. The screen is also minimal, same with the settings.

With that being said, I still thoroughly enjoy using my SX Mini.

 

[PapaPro]

Some good stuff coming out lately here. learning so much.

I hate to say it but it seems the weakest link in the temp thing is the 510 connections. The MFGs need to standardise this as every atty I have is different. IF we had a standard, I would not have had so many problems getting my Kayfun nV4s to work. They are still not perfect. But a standard fitting would help move things in the right direction. Vaping industry pull your finger out!

This stuff is so not for begginers. It is not even ready yet (I put many products through saftey tests to comply a standard). I would wait for the next model to come out if you are sitting on the fence. And wait for a proven atty too. Money is not even the issue. Standards are.

Still waiting for SM to get back to me about the RES issues with my V4s. Over £500 spent on their product and no reply to my polite request for help. Thank god I had you guys!

Take care all

 

[drewburton48]

My like for like comparison? was with my VS rdna40 which I have since sold due to screen glitches rather than send it back to the US (I did tell the buyer about them).
I have had good and bad experiences using TP with both devices for different reasons but prefer the SX mini (slightly) for kanthal mode, due to the extra settings and the battery meter however, I feel that the optimisation of the Vaporshark with regards to battery life was vastly superior.
I'm not sure if I am imagining it but, after having the SX mini for 3 weeks now, I am getting the impression that the performance of my 3 new (genuine) Samsung 25r batteries is diminishing. Anybody feel the same? Is the constant temperature regulating killing my batteries quickly?

 

[PapaPro]

My like for like comparison? was with my VS rdna40 which I have since sold due to screen glitches rather than send it back to the US (I did tell the buyer about them).
I have had good and bad experiences using TP with both devices for different reasons but prefer the SX mini (slightly) for kanthal mode, due to the extra settings and the battery meter however, I feel that the optimisation of the Vaporshark with regards to battery life was vastly superior.
I'm not sure if I am imagining it but, after having the SX mini for 3 weeks now, I am getting the impression that the performance of my 3 new (genuine) Samsung 25r batteries is diminishing. Anybody feel the same? Is the constant temperature regulating killing my batteries quickly?

My M Class is very inefficient with battery life. I suspect they will work on the BMS on the next update.

Charge your cell, and empty the capacity. Write down the Joules used, then repeat. Look for consistency to see if your cell is working well. That at least is how I use Joules.

Goods luck!