I'm on a .12 now and still same thing. It works fine on my dna 40 but not on the mini. And my battery charger just took a crap on me. Man what a day@jstrong
Jimscotty0 posted a nice way to setup your device if you haven't seen it I'd recommend the read.
Also if your getting burnt hit's I would be looking all over for a bad connection or improper sync or something of that nature. Setup properly you should not receive a dry hit. What gauge wire are you using and what size mandrel to get that .25Ω? Even if your using 30g it would take 24-25 wraps on a 3mm mandrel to get there??? That would be gigantic.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 148 | E-Cigarette Forum
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
- Thread starter whitewidows
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When I first get the Lemo, I had terrible connection issues. Then I took a half-pound rubber mallet and pounded the pin in on the atomizer base. No issues since.
The problem with the Lemo is that the insulator is not as flexible as 510 spring pin in my SX Mini or iStick, so the 510 spring pin isn't strong enough to force the connection. By pounding the pin, it's reseated further up in the insulator thus (hopefully) negating the problem.
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Lmao. I want to buy the lemo 2 so bad but have read so many mixed reviews on it. I have been on the fence about this decision for 3 weeks and can't seem to pull the trigger. I keep reading the flavor is muted, and there is too much going on between the center pin and the coil so the nickel builds suck.When I first get the Lemo, I had terrible connection issues. Then I took a half-pound rubber mallet and pounded the pin in on the atomizer base. No issues since.
Just annoyed cuz I read so many good reviews for the lemo 2, then read so many negative reviews of people wanting to like the lemo 2 so bad but cant.
I drilled out everything on my lemo 1 so I already have much more airflow than stock, and the nickel builds are amazing.
What size wire and mandrel are you using? At .08Ω - .12Ω for me is good around 22j - 25j using 28g 3mm mandrel, At 30j it's excessively hot and cant vape it for more than a second or two.
I'm very happy with the Lemo 2, once I sorted out the initial 510 pin issue. The flavor is not as good as my magma, but what is? Compared to my Kanger STM, I find it much more reliable and equally good in flavor.
Just looked at Vlad1's link. That link references the Lemo 2. If you are moving a Lemo between the "E" and 350J all bets are off.
Your problem is not the SX but the Lemo 2. I have had similar results with the Lemo.
Solve the Lemo part first: wick, coil, 510. Only then can you blame the SX.
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To check if the 510 is the problem, my suggestion would be to use a 510-ego adapter. They don't have a spring pin connector, so they can force the 510 pin in despite the insulator.
Oh, I don't think that was asked... And if I recall correctly there were a few in the beginning that didn't read the manual that had similar problems.
Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:
Knowing that:
1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value
2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1
Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?
Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?
I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Knowing that:
1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value
2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1
Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?
Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?
I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Pls be patience and try to work it out.. It could be a sync or a coil issue.. When all done properly the SX does vape nicely..
The 'E' seems to work better at 0.1ohm or higher, while the SX is best below that..
Or when all fails try a replacement unit, still can't rule out unit fault..
The 'E' seems to work better at 0.1ohm or higher, while the SX is best below that..
Or when all fails try a replacement unit, still can't rule out unit fault..
Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:
//snipped//
Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?
I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Simplest answer:
These ate NOT TC issues. They are mod setup, or, config issues, namely the 510.
The most recent involved a difficult/troubled RTA, the Lemo 2.
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Operator error or attomizer issues.Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:
Knowing that:
1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value
2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1
Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?
Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?
I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I personally have had no issues with setup, function or quality ( paint and misalaigned parts). I have been using the
SX mini daily for almost a month now. Granted I do not have the atomizers some have expressed trouble with. My Kayfuns ( not V4) and drippers work great.
- Dirk
I am seriously considering the Mini, but I am questioning the accuracy. I read about so many people vaping at real low temperatures. I just saw a Busardo video and he was vaping at 280°.
1. Did the "User" set the resistance?
Don't know.
2. Did the "User"" ever bother to look at the temperature shown?
Don't know.
3. Was the atty properly wicked and coiled?
Don't know.
4. Did the "User" take the time to learn the capabilities of the device?
If the above questions were answered, "Yes", the user can get an excellent Vape. If not, random results can be predicted.
280? Not in my house.
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Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:
Knowing that:
1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value
2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1
Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?
Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?
I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Had this b4; bad connection cause hot legs.. No heat gun to measure the actual temp, but that did cause the cotton to burn, or charred at least.. Happen on both dna40 and the SX
That makes sense.
Wouldn't the standard running water test be a great reliable way of making sure the atty is well paired with the sx?
Like:
1) build coil and wick it temporarily with a strand of cotton or rayon
2) set a temperature of 300 or 400F and power to something like 20 or 30 joules
3) wait for both atty and mod be at the same temperature and pair them together
4) put the atty sideways with just the coil/wick under running water, remove it and fire the mod right away (wick still soaked in water)
If calibration, connection and build were successful, the temperature should show something around 212F. If values differ a lot, something is wrong.
After a successful test, dry atty, replace wick and set preferred temperature, joules and vape away?
This works on a dna 40. Shouldn't it work on the sx? I don't have one yet or I would test it myself.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I think running water would disipate the heat too quickly. Maybe saturate your wick with water? Earlier in this thread there was some discussion on water testing.
DirkI've never done the water/212 degree test, on either device.
Seems "OCD" to me.
And, I don't believe in "OCD". For me that is one on many fictions, created to make some "analyst" feel smarter.
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100000000% correct. I've posted this quite a few times already but got tired of re-explaining and correcting.
The 4 modes Soft/Standard/Powerful/+ are also redundant to the joules setting as well. Just another option for fine tuning. All these do (the modes and joules) is tell the device how quickly to ramp up to your desired set temperature.
When I set my resistance properly at room temp with any of my 4 different tanks i use with my mini I get the same EXACT temperature vape on all 4...whether i am at 15 joules or 50 joules.
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