SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Ill try another build probably later this week, I essentially drove an hour and a half to pick up my sx mini m after having waited over a week for our local vape shop to get them in stock, I got impatient. I was using a Provari 3 and a Vamo v2, both of which were frustrating me to no end, to the point that I bought a pack of smokes Friday night, so Saturday, I looked around and found a shop an hour and a half away, drove to pick it up, then drove back (about 4 hours) and stopped in my favourite locale vape shop (the one that still didnt have them in stock) and they were so kind as to give me (free of charge) an extra build deck for my Kanger sub ohm tank (because I didnt happen to have it with me, I was using the prebuilt kanthal coils) and they even built a nickel coil for me, which turned out to read .126 resistance and they assured me that was just about right for the SX mini. I have no idea what gauge they used, I was just thrilled that they were so nice as to give me an extra rebuildable section and build a coil for free for me (I've spent over $1000 at this shop so that might have something to do with it lol).
Fast forward a day, I havent used the SX much yet, Ive been trying to smoke through the pack of smokes I bought 2 days ago (Friday), and I might add, what a wretched experience.
But, Ive been poking around with it, vaping on it a bit, figuring out the menu system, etc. and this mod is so fantastic. I have to have a regulated mod, I have always felt this way and unfortunately, this limits my choices to 3 main chips that are in wide distribution, Provape, DNA, and Yihi (I want safety and accuracy in my mods so if there are any others I dont know about that might fill those two requirements, Id love to hear about them).
Provape lost me as a customer when they decided to change the 510 connection to the P3 connection and in the process, my P3 is unusable (the adapter ring is stripped and they want to charge me $40 for cleaning to replace the ring, why it needs to be cleaned, I dont know). Then we have firmware updates, of which, must be done at a vape store that carries the upgrade hardware, the closest place that can update my P3 is over an hour drive away. Provape wants me to pay $20 to update the firmware. And finally, I have to pay $10 or so to ship it to them. So, thanks but no thanks. By the way, the updated firmware allows me to use .5 ohm coils on the P3 so that was kind of a big deal for me as I use the Kanger sub ohm tanks (with a very tight draw on the airflow and a replaced standard drip tip, I dont understand why people like these super airy draws).
DNA, I simply dont trust. Starting with the DNA 20 and no reverse battery protection and the excuse given was that it didnt fit on the board is BS, I have mechanical mods with a simple $0.13 fuse that have reverse battery protection. Fast forward to the DNA 40 and the several revisions that chip has had in the course of only a few weeks and those that bought the first and second runs are SOL, they have to buy an entirely new mod with the later revisions. Thanks but no thanks, I dont trust Evolv to get it right.
Then we have Yihi, a company I didnt know anything about until a month or two ago, turns out they made the chips in several lower end mods that were popular for more affordable, cost effective mods (Sigeli was one as I recall).
So, there is where I stand, right now, I have one company I have to rely on now for my regulated mod needs so here is hoping Yihi doesnt mess it up because they are all I have left.
Personally, the SX Mini doesnt look good to me, but its functional, works well, and at least so far, Im not annoyed with it, and this is what I need in my mods, not to be annoyed with them.
I dont have time for fiddly bits, I hate building coils, and if I hit the fire button, it needs to work 100% of the time. I dont have patience for any BS on my mods.
The SX Mini does it mostly right. Sure, the menu system is a bit wonky and the battery cover is dumb, but thankfully, I dont need to mess with the menu system much (I just change the temperature plus or minus 20 degrees, I leave the watts the alone) and the battery cover, as I understand it, will loosen up over time making it easier to remove without the need for a tool.
So, there you have it, my locale vape shop calls me the 'annoyed vaper', a title Im ok with. Im super picky when it comes to this stuff, when a mod annoys me enough to have to buy a pack of smokes, that mod has failed.
I dont like switching to different devices, I want that one device that will do the job and do it well and the SX Mini looks like, so far at least, it will serve that purpose.
I get alot of crap for using the Kanger sub ohm tanks rather than building my own coils (sadly, something Im going to have to start doing again now that Im falling in love with proper temperature control *sigh*). But, they work. They provide good flavour (not the absolute best but they are really good for the price) and they most importantly, arent fiddly, they just work. Sure, you have to replace the coils every 3-5 days but thats easy enough to do.
I like drippers, I hate building coils, so, Im in a quandry in that department, my favourite dripper uses a vertical coil and has a deep juice well and is a PITA to build on but wow is the flavour awesome.
What this all has to do with the SX mini, I dont know, I just feel like the SX Mini M might be the saving grace here for me as I was beginning to lose hope that I would be able to find a regulated mod that would fill my non-fiddly bits needs.
Thats about right that's pretty much what I get with 2200Ma and 2500Mah maybe 19000J with the 2500I got an SX Mini M class yesterday after about a 3 hour test run.
I read through this thread since yesterday afternoon and have learned alot.
I have 3 ProVari 2's and 3 P3's and enjoy their full power delivery down to empty.
I totally enjoy my new addition and only added it because of months of stellar SX S reviews.
I have noticed the output drops off at about 3.5V on the SX mini and that's acceptable.
I'm using a Subtank mini with 1.2 ohm OCCs at 25W & .5 ohm OCCs at 27.5-30W
I have been using OCCs on my P3s at ~17.5W +1 boost.
I chain vape constantly so that's what they could keep up with.
Higher watts = more nic delivered = less frequent tokes = wicking can keep up with me - go figure
I have 4 Sammy 25R's OTW and I'm using new AW 2200 IMRs and older 2000mah for now.
How many joules delivered should I expect from 2200-2500mah batteries?
I swapped the last (older 2000mah) battery out at 3.45v and only ~18000.0J delivered.
That's low right? Means that battery's lifespan is about done?
Thanks
All I had to do with mine was send it in and pay $5 for the return trip at Provape. Sent it on Tuesday and shipped heading my way Friday. I think Provape has the best CS of anyone around. I don't understand why you had so many problems with the connection. I have always used the 510 and never had a problem.
The P3 upgrade is free you must have read the menu that says $20 for upgrade. I use the Kanger STM exclusively with the RBA section. I have 5 of them built with nickel. I have an authentic Kayfun K4 I use on the P3. They look beautiful together. I have never had as good of CS as I get with Provape. But they don't make a TC mod yet. I wish they would make one based on the YiHi chip. Oh by the way there seems to be a new chip coming out every day here lately it's like the SubOhm tanks. I don't subohm but I really like the kanger for nickel. I can't believe a vape shop would tell you that a .126 coil is just right for the SX when YiHi recommends .065. Crazy. I guess from what I have read the closer you are to .065 the more accurate they are but I really like the .08 range.
I agree with you about the customer service. I was lucky that the shop where I purchased my P3 had the upgrade hardware. They did it for free so no cost. If it was my only mod I would have found it annoying.
I only did the upgrade for the battery issues. .5 ohm with the 20 watt max output seems pointless. It may have some value for others so at least it's an option for some folks.
I prefer the way Yihi is handling the upgrades.
I had a paint issue with my first M and it took all of 5 minutes to arrange a swap. So I have to say I'm impressed with Yihi also.
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(reworded for clarity)
I was getting ~50ml of good use out of OCCs with most of my flavors in 40/60 PG/VG at 17.5W
Should I expect a substantial difference at 25-30W?
Once you get used to the menu it's a piece of cake. It has pretty much unlimited adjustment options. You are using the 2000MaH AW's. I think they have an amperage limit around 10 or 15 so you should be careful.
AW IMR 18650 are 20A, hell, their 350/490 are 12/18 respectively
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I as many on here do really like what I see and hear of the SX Mini M but I have heard/seen some folks mention hat they are not a big fan of the flavor from the nickle coils.
Has anyone here noticed any difference in the flavor from the nickle coils?
Its not a factor in my making a purchase on a couple of these but was just curious if indeed this could be possible.
Thanks for any response!
Has anyone here noticed any difference in the flavor from the nickle coils?
Its not a factor in my making a purchase on a couple of these but was just curious if indeed this could be possible.
Thanks for any response!
I think flavor is a result of everything from the design of the atomizer, power, coil design and on and on. Changing wire changes things and requires adjustment in other factors. It's possible to get fantastic flavor with nickel but few fall into their sweet spot without doing their homework. I would guess most folks had to search for their sweet spot with kanthal also. So what's new?
I'm new at this (bout 7 months now) but I kinda felt that my self.
I am going to pick up one for myself and one for my wife regardless...I just like the Yihi chip better than the Evolve and the look and feel of the SX Mini....hate to pay out this much but its worth it in the long run!!
Thanks!
Oh, Im using a Samsung or Sony, I stopped using AMR's a long time ago.
The menu seems very minimal actually, the only problem is that the up button is your confirmation button instead of the fire button.
There is basic functionality missing that doesnt make any sense to me, screen timeout being one (mine stays on for what feels like a full minute after a vape).
Its also about time for user customization of wattage (increase by .1, .2, .5 or 1 per increment) and temp increments on all mods. I dont need .1 increments on watts, nor do I need 1 degree increments on temp, if I could set my watt increments to increase by 1 watt or .5 per increment and set the temp to increase by 5 degrees per jump, Id be a happy camper.
It definitely was a learning curve for me. I went through a dozen or so builds before I found what worked for me. Yihi recommends a build of 0.065 as the sweet spot. When I finally hit that resistance I found it less enjoyable. I've since settled on builds around 0.078 to be my sweet spot.
As far as Kanthal vs Nickel I find the flavor similar.
The biggest difference for me is I find the vape with nickel to be thick, and moist. The vape from Kanthal
Is much drier and less dense in my opinion. Others may have different experiences.
The biggest plus for me is being able to get the same level of flavor but less heat.
Never getting a dry hit is main reason I love this device.
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No. I'm hopping that Yihi will shed some light. Hasn't happened since. I thought it was related to a connectivity issue but it was odd. Usually you would have resistance all over the place. Never saw that code before.
Thank you for asking.
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Thank you for asking.
Sent from my iPhone
I get great flavor out of my nickel coils but you must remember to wash out your wire otherwise you may get a bad taste that may be due to oils or chemicals used in the manufacturing process. I just twisted up about 10' of 26ga NI200 along with 30ga Kanthal A1 and put the twisted wire in an untrasonic cleaner for about 3 cycles in vodka. That works for me and some folks just wash it with soapy water and then rinse it real well.
Busardo found that the SX's TC uses PWM. Anyone hear a rattlesnake in TC mode?
To me, it seems less like PWM and more like the device firing in bursts to control the temperature. It also seems to happen at higher Joule settings which would support that theory for me.
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