SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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It can from my understanding.
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Q: When i use the M Class, the device is getting hot, is it normal ?
A: This is normal, no worry. Because when the chip is working, it will getting hot and the atomizer also will conduct heat through the 510 to the body of device. When you feel the device is getting hot, we suggest you stop vaping for a while untill it cool down.
Mine has been warming up. I did notice that the temperature of the device itself will change the reading of the resistance. I've had to let it cool down to get the reading I know it should be.
The biggest disadvantage to this device I've found, or maybe all TC devices is that they must be cool to lock the resistance.
It would be nice if it would save the info for coils or let you select a resistance you know it is if it's not cooled.
While it doesn't get "hot", it does get warmer than I think it should for a mod. None of my DNA40 devices gets warm while vaping. The atomizers get warm as to be expected but not the mod itself.
The newer DNA40 has atomizer lock so it will hold a resistance but I think the refinement works really well and doesn't need atty lock if you have a solid mod (good connections) and a solid atomizer. I use KF4's and they don't drift more than .01Ω if at all even when hot on my DNA40's. I've only had my SX for a day and I haven't seen it move but that might have to do with setting the resistance when you put the atomizer on the mod the first time.
So far, I'm not all that impressed with the SX other than the auto orientation screen.
The newer DNA40 has atomizer lock so it will hold a resistance but I think the refinement works really well and doesn't need atty lock if you have a solid mod (good connections) and a solid atomizer. I use KF4's and they don't drift more than .01Ω if at all even when hot on my DNA40's. I've only had my SX for a day and I haven't seen it move but that might have to do with setting the resistance when you put the atomizer on the mod the first time.
So far, I'm not all that impressed with the SX other than the auto orientation screen.
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All my mods get warm with significant use. SX DNA & "other" That's why all of the boards include a temp warning/shut down feature because all of them create heat in use. Of course it depends on energy consumption/settings.
Duane
I'm using a .09Ω build on a KF4 on my SX. It's set to 20j, 400°F. My DNA40's have KF4's with .12Ω - .14Ω, 20w, 430°F. I'm vaping about the same with the SX and DNA40's but the SX mod gets very warm while the DNA40's are still cool. The atomizers are also warmer on the SX than the DNA40's.
I've seen DNA devices held together with hot glue, put in candy tins, plastic battery boxes etc.. Using DNA-40 is generic term and could be any of those. Heat transfer is directly associated with the type of materials used, how the electronics are mounted, power output etc. The Sxmini m pcb is solidly connected to the zinc alloy c-frame with SS screws so that may be why you perceive a difference. But they all produce heat in the circuitry of the device, some may dissipate heat better than others just depends on the materials used how it's mounted and power settings.
Vaporshark rDNA40 and DNA40, Hana V4 (no hot glue), Hana mini clone I built with hot glue, 2 Hana boxes I also built with hot glue. None of them get anywhere near as warm as the SX.
Typo... .01Ω
I said I would update the Joules result with the new 3000 maH battery. Still some juice left with the Joules showing:
300098.9J Low Battery not showing, yet.
Running at 24J, 445F, on a 0.12 coil. More pulls available but I need to change the battery...
300098.9J Low Battery not showing, yet.
Running at 24J, 445F, on a 0.12 coil. More pulls available but I need to change the battery...
Might be the KF4 itself. Have you checked to make sure it doesn't have a static resistance problem?
Also, heat dissipation isn't necessarily a bad thing. For example, if both boards are running equally hot, then it's better for the device to absorb the heat and spread it around than to insulate it.
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New o'rings & a 2puffs tip for the STM to match the M class better
I have 7 KF4 clones and the one on it currently is very stable (taken off one of my DNA40's with a new build with 1 tank thru it). I'll try another one.
The reason I brought up the heat issue was because none of my DNA40 mods get warm while vaping. The SX wasn't getting uncomfortable to hold but it was noticeably warm.
Oh my that's a big drip tip.. I use the uncrustable from vaporshark but nice setupNew o'rings & a 2puffs tip for the STM to match the M class better
Some pics...
All my temp protected mods
Inside the Hana V4 (no hot glue):
Inside Hana mini clone (DNA40 large screen, 18650):
All my temp protected mods
Inside the Hana V4 (no hot glue):
Inside Hana mini clone (DNA40 large screen, 18650):
I'm guessing that your DNA40 mods are made using aluminum alloy, while the case of the SXM is a zinc alloy. Generally, a zinc alloy is a better conductor of heat than an aluminum alloy (pure aluminum is a better conductor than zinc, but alloys interfere with heat transfer - there are aluminum alloys made for heat transfer, but they are softer materials that one doesn't make a mod case out of). So my educated presumption is that the SXM is made of materials (zinc alloy, brass battery tube), that are a better heat sink for your device.
The primary source of heat in a mod is likely the battery, in which case keeping it cooler will prolong the battery's life.
The silicone cover is a great thermal insulator so it would be tough to determine how hot the internal structure is by touching the outside of the device.
Duane
So, did you order the silicone cover for the SX? Has it arrived yet?
When I first got my rDNA40, I noticed that the atomizer was getting warm so I took off the sharkskin and the mod itself was still very cool. None of my DNA40's get warm while vaping. The SXM does.
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