SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Dobo]

I'm speculating here, but as the SXM board requires higher amps than dna, shouldn't that play a role in how hot the device gets?

I have a Raytec thermal reader. I just did a test on both devices.

Freshly charged batteries in both mods. I puffed 30 times on each, same way I normally vape, about 2-3 sec puffs but with a 2-3 sec pause between vapes. Ambient temp is 85°F (yeah, it's hot in NJ). Both mods and atomizers were 85°F at the start of the tests. I held each mod with my finger tips with the least amount of contact as I could.

SX Mini M - KF4, full tank of juice (Lenola Cream), 28g Ni200, .10Ω, 20j, 380°F. The KF4 became warm as usual, 100°F at it's hottest point (I took readings top to bottom). The SXM at it's hottest was 99°F at the display and 93-98°F around the body. The c-frame was hottest at the screen, not near the atomizer or at the battery cap. Makes sense since the SX350 board has a coil there. On the side of the SXM, it was warmest at the center of the mod by the screen again.

VS rDNA40 (no sharkskin) - KF4, full tank of juice (Honey dew/pear mix), 28g Ni200, .12Ω, 20w, 430°F. Similarly, the KF4 was 100°F at it's hottest point. The rDNA was 94°F at it's hottest point, just around the atomizer base. 89-93°F everywhere else.

This confirms my experiences. Like I said, the SXM isn't uncomfortably warm to hold but it is warmer than the VS or other DNA40 mods I own when vaping as I normally do. I'm actually surprised it wasn't hotter and there was only a 5°F difference.

 

[tchavei]

I can confirm that my M class and authentic kayfun V4s do sometimes get hot. But I am sure-ish it's the battery as I run out of power, changed battery, and my efest was really hot. Hotter than my M class! I did think at the time it was my cell.

Still, this is not a fact but there could be something here we all should keep an eyen on. We all should also know that most of the cells are re-wraps. I forgot where that link I posted is but there is a web site that has tested nearly every battery out there. Perhaps some kind soul will dig that up.

Good stuff people and let's find out if our cells or our MODS creats some extra heat.

Torchy has an extensive database of tested batteries

Torchy the Battery Boy: 18650 Batteries / Chargers

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Ps: for the 40th time, I don't own a sx mini class.

 

[jseah]

I said I would update the Joules result with the new 3000 maH battery. Still some juice left with the Joules showing:

300098.9J Low Battery not showing, yet.

Running at 24J, 445F, on a 0.12 coil. More pulls available but I need to change the battery...

My last battery change. Atlantis v2 with a 0.18 ohm coil, 40 joules in ECO mode at 450 degrees. Samsung 25R battery. Just a little over 30k joules when the low battery warning kicked on. I'm trying it now at 30 joules to see if there is an improvement in battery life.

 

[Yerba]

I just received my replacement from Varitube. Great job with the new paint, kinda glossy black.
The first atty I tried was a SubTank Plus, when connecting it noted something strange, like the atty wasn't entering straight into the 510 thread.
After that I tried 2 lemos 2 and 2 different RDA, they are completely loose. The 510 thread in the SX is way too big so it won't grab the threads on the atty. How can this be possible??

 

[druckle]

I just received my replacement from Varitube. Great job with the new paint, kinda glossy black.
The first atty I tried was a SubTank Plus, when connecting it noted something strange, like the atty wasn't entering straight into the 510 thread.
After that I tried 2 lemos 2 and 2 different RDA, they are completely loose. The 510 thread in the SX is way too big so it won't grab the threads on the atty. How can this be possible??

Wow...never heard of that. Return that puppy ASAP.

 

[HolmanGT]

Wow...never heard of that. Return that puppy ASAP.

Yuppers if you keep using it with the loose threads you may end up damaging your Attys.

I just received my replacement from Varitube. Great job with the new paint, kinda glossy black.
The first atty I tried was a SubTank Plus, when connecting it noted something strange, like the atty wasn't entering straight into the 510 thread.
After that I tried 2 lemos 2 and 2 different RDA, they are completely loose. The 510 thread in the SX is way too big so it won't grab the threads on the atty. How can this be possible??

Does the paint have a hard feel to it... they might have gone with "Powder Coat" if they did it will last forever. Ok, ok a very long time.

 

[druckle]

Yuppers if you keep using it with the loose threads you may end up damaging your Attys.



Does the paint have a hard feel to it... they might have gone with "Powder Coat" if they did it will last forever. Ok, ok a very long time.

Forever isn't that long for you and me George.

 

[Yerba]

Does the paint have a hard feel to it... they might have gone with "Powder Coat" if they did it will last forever. Ok, ok a very long time

It looks better than the older and feels sturdy, at least can't scratch it with my fingernail.

 

[HolmanGT]

Forever isn't that long for you and me George.

Well I glad you think it is funny For me I sometimes wonder if I still have enough time to finish a post.

 

[druckle]

Well I glad you think it is funny For me I sometimes wonder if I still have enough time to finish a post.

Well....I gotta laugh at the situation since I can't do anything about it.

 

[HolmanGT]

It looks better than the older and feels sturdy, at least can't scratch it with my fingernail.

Yerba,

That is exactly what I was talking about. Mine is soft and if I press with my finger nail I have no doubt that I could pull off a strip of paint. If what you have is powder coat it is almost impervious to scratches and solvents like lighter fluid, acetone, alcohol and e-juice won't touch it. When I was still engineering equipment I used it exclusively for anything that needed paint. Plus when you get it there is no cure time that you have to be careful. When they take it out of the ovens it is as hard and ready to go as it will ever be. I know I am making it sound like utopia but that's only because it is as far as paints go.

Oh - and if you are a green sort of guy it is greener than any conventional paint ever thought of being. No solvents used and it is electrostatically sprayed on so there is almost no overspray. It comes out of the gun and electrostatically gets sucked to the part being sprayed. The only problem you may have with it is if you try to get it off. Solvents won't touch it so sanding is the only way to get it off - "Very Cool" stuff.

If that is what you got I am really, really jealous.

 

[HolmanGT]

Well....I gotta laugh at the situation since I can't do anything about it.

I know what you mean Duane. It's just when a friend is so blunt about it I have these twinges of reality. Oh what the He!! I am laughing about it too. I am just glad I am not of one of those religions that believe in reincarnation. I don't think I could go thru this twice besides the next go-around I might come back as a Beta Tester.

 

[Yerba]

I have to let you guys know about Perry@Varitube. He really stands behind what he sells. Great communication and willing to help in any way. I know there are great places to buy, just glad I've used Varitube. This messages were sent after I wrote him about the 510 thread problem, asked if there was a B&M in Melbourne so I can make a 2:30hs trip:

 

[KTMRider]

Seems par for the course with Varitube. I've ordered parts from them (him?) a few times and it shipped really fast. I mentioned in a review that they should carry a tap for their 510 connector since the 10 x .5 isn't a very common tap and they had it on the site within a few weeks (not sure if I was the instigator).

 

[HolmanGT]

I have to let you guys know about Perry@Varitube. He really stands behind what he sells. Great communication and willing to help in any way. I know there are great places to buy, just glad I've used Varitube. This messages were sent after I wrote him about the 510 thread problem, asked if there was a B&M in Melbourne so I can make a 2:30hs trip:View attachment 465128

Yerba,

I don't think I have heard a better vendor response than that. I know where I will shop next time.

 

[Yozhik]

Varitube is great to deal with as well. One thing that surprises me is that one doesn't hear as many vendor horror stories with the SXM, but I'd guess that is likely due to YiHi making the mod, rather than relying on other vendors to build them.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Someone may have mentioned this but I just saw that the IPV3 (SX330-V3SL chip) has a firmware upgrade that provides support for Ti. Has anyone heard anything about a similar upgrade for the 350J??

 

[Yerba]

Someone may have mentioned this but I just saw that the IPV3 (SX330-V3SL chip) has a firmware upgrade that provides support for Ti. Has anyone heard anything about a similar upgrade for the 350J??

This was posted a few days back:

I've been in contact with a rep from Yihi because I wanted to know if they have plans to support other wires with the sx350j. She told me their engineers are working on it and they hope to release an update at the end of July or August. She also told me they're not only looking into titanium but also stainless steel and kanthal.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

This was posted a few days back:

whoops...my bad..missed that..

good to know Yihi are looking into a FW update to include Kanthal...?!?!?!?!?

 

[TheBloke]

I've been in contact with a rep from Yihi because I wanted to know if they have plans to support other wires with the sx350j. She told me their engineers are working on it and they hope to release an update at the end of July or August. She also told me they're not only looking into titanium but also stainless steel and kanthal.

Awesome. Not sure they're going to get anywhere with Kanthal But Stainless should be very possible with Yihi's supposed 0.001Ω accuracy (at least it displays to 0.001Ω so hopefully it's accurate to that level)