hi guys. first time to use a temp control device. what's your usual setup on a kanger st mini with nickel occ? Thanks in advanced!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, it factored in battery temp too.Did the test include thermal readings from the batteries as the test was being done? The batteries may have "performed better" as far as electrical drain during the test goes, but they may have also run much hotter which would shorten their lifespan as well.
And a 20A test doesn't mean either battery is safe at nearly 25A.
but it wouldnt make any difference anyway right? The Joules is how much the batt has given out, ore or less regardless of how you do it. If you vape at lower joules, it will take longer in time to get to say 20KJ but it will stillget there...A pint of beer is still a pint whether you sip it or chug it in one...or am I wrong??
but it wouldnt make any difference anyway right? The Joules is how much the batt has given out, ore or less regardless of how you do it. If you vape at lower joules, it will take longer in time to get to say 20KJ but it will stillget there...A pint of beer is still a pint whether you sip it or chug it in one...or am I wrong??
of course I agree! However, we are talking about a difference here of say 24kJ versus 35 or somnething nuts!!I am in agreement. However, higher wattages / joules will get to that total joules faster (hence shorter overall run time before charges) and also... at lower joules you will obviously have more screen on time -- not sure how much battery that eats up, but will be some., and decrease the total joules count as well as total run time.
ok but a 30% difference?? An extra 12-15kJ??Nope. Battery capacity decreases as current draw increases. Most batteries provide their advertised capacities at a low C-rate. For example, the HE4 is given at 0.2 C, which means (2500 mAh)*0.2C = 500 mA. At it's max continuous discharge rating, on the LG HE4 you'll see around a 10~15% reduction in capacity versus the advertised capacity. Some batteries are worse than the LG HE4 in terms of reduced capacity at max discharge, some might be better.
ok but a 30% difference?? An extra 12-15kJ??
interesting! let us know!Actually I'm thinking it may be the way v1.4 is reporting total joules vs. the way v2.2 does it. I'm downgrading mine to 1.4 tonight to test this. My calibrated () 5 sec drag results in 70-75j right now in v2.2. I suspect on v1.4 it will be as high as 100.
interesting! let us know!
The file you downloaded could be corrupt. Try downloading it again.Well looks like the v1.4 file on the yihi site might be corrupted. Upgrade looks like it works and verified that v1.4 loaded on the device but screen is scrambled on the first digit on the temperature and it can't be adjusted. Anyone know if the file may exist somewhere else on the web?
Yep. Did that twice and have tried upgrade with battery in and out. Same result. I've got an email in to Yihi…The file you downloaded could be corrupt. Try downloading it again.
What is the file extension of your file? If it's *.man you have to rename it to *.rarYep. Did that twice and have tried upgrade with battery in and out. Same result. I've got an email in to Yihi…
Hi George. Mine is a poor analogy really. I guess I am just surprised that getting an extra 10+ kJ can really be attributed to battery efficiency/losses under loads that are pretty similar really...Your point is well taken!!Steve,
I am not sure your analogy is correct. After all the battery efficiency is higher at lower current draw and therefor should provide more power to the load. I think you could get into I^2 * R losses when running at higher current draws. Poor analogy driving your car at 100 mph vs 55 mph.