SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Ardy]

Would a twisted with kanthal give an accurate reading based on YiHi's settings for Ti? Jim, I'm not disagreeing with your results, but I wouldn't think YiHi's Ti baseline was based on a mixed metal coil. I guess YiHi's baseline is moot as long as you find what works best for you.

 

[JimScotty0]

Would a twisted with kanthal give an accurate reading based on YiHi's settings for Ti? Jim, I'm not disagreeing with your results, but I wouldn't think YiHi's Ti baseline was based on a mixed metal coil. I guess YiHi's baseline is moot as long as you find what works best for you.

Electricity follows the path of least resistance so the NI200 or Ti is the shortest route. I have built the same coil with and with out twisting Kanthal A1 and the resistance is about the same so I don't believe it plays a part in the results. It even produces the dry coil message and will not burn or scorch my cotton wicks. It may however produce slightly more ramp up time because more metal is being heated and it may hold heat longer. I can tell you that it will produce more contact area for ejuice so therefore more vapor.

Give it a try? You might like it. I was not the first and I know of others who swear by it too and regularly post here on ECF. Other benefits are very easy coil building with Nickel or Ti but it will take more battery life as the negative.

 

[Ardy]

I will give it a try! Thanks for the advice. I would think that even though the resistance matches in the restive state, as current is applied is totally different than a single metal coil. If it produces more ramp up time then the resistances aren't matched.

 

[Ardy]

I would be curious if there was a measured difference between twisted 2 strands of 30ga Ni and 2 strands of 30ga Ka and Ni. No matter I still want some form of simplicity and probably won't go into the computer dedicated dna 200. Even though it's so much more configurable, I just don't want to spend that much time on it. Somewhere in your life you have to draw lines...A robot wife ? Let me think....

 

[Quantum Mech]

I will give higher ohms a try, but I have been using it on my dual coil Zephyrus with a Ti build giving about .123 ohms. I have been using it in Ti mode and rocking this bad boy at around 500F and 26J. It has been working like a charm. The only thing I find different than NI200 is the higher temperature needed to produce the same result that I would have gotten with NI200. Other than that it just works just fine for me on the SXM using Ti mode.

Yeah I am finding Ti mode works fine too

It does not stay as close to TP as it does in nickel mode and I crank my tp up to 480f

But hey ho it works

I certainly wont be building at higher ohms or with thinner wire

Will either stick with nickel mode as have been for months now with Ti or use the final release when they have ironed out the minor faults

 

[Haylon357]

I have never been a big fan of temperature control. I just don't get the warm vape that I'm use to with kanthal. I'm not blaming the device. I honestly feel that Yihi has done an outstanding job with their interpretation. So maybe it's my building technique. My current kanthal build is a dual coil at 0.5 ohm's at 35 watts in a billow v2. If anyone has any suggestions on a NI 200 build, please share. I have access to 32,30, and 28 gauge NI 200. I also have access to several rta's. Billow, Billow v2, Lemo, Lemo Drop, Lemo 2, STM, Delta 2, and the Zephyrus. Input would be greatly appreciated.

Tapped From My LG G4

 

[Yozhik]

I have never been a big fan of temperature control. I just don't get the warm vape that I'm use to with kanthal. I'm not blaming the device. I honestly feel that Yihi has done an outstanding job with their interpretation. So maybe it's my building technique. My current kanthal build is a dual coil at 0.5 ohm's at 35 watts in a billow v2. If anyone has any suggestions on a NI 200 build, please share. I have access to 32,30, and 28 gauge NI 200. I also have access to several rta's. Billow, Billow v2, Lemo, Lemo Drop, Lemo 2, STM, Delta 2, and the Zephyrus. Input would be greatly appreciated.

Nickel is hard to do in dual coil, but can be done. Easier with Titanium if you are willing to give it a try.

 

[Quantum Mech]

I have never been a big fan of temperature control. I just don't get the warm vape that I'm use to with kanthal. I'm not blaming the device. I honestly feel that Yihi has done an outstanding job with their interpretation. So maybe it's my building technique. My current kanthal build is a dual coil at 0.5 ohm's at 35 watts in a billow v2. If anyone has any suggestions on a NI 200 build, please share. I have access to 32,30, and 28 gauge NI 200. I also have access to several rta's. Billow, Billow v2, Lemo, Lemo Drop, Lemo 2, STM, Delta 2, and the Zephyrus. Input would be greatly appreciated.

Tapped From My LG G4

I did not do much with nickel, just moved straight onto Ti

2 strands of 26awg Ti twisted in a subtank mini was waaaaaay too hot for me

Glass was hot to touch and needed to use a drip tip with a heat sink

 

[Yozhik]

I did not do much with nickel, just moved straight onto Ti

2 strands of 26awg Ti twisted in a subtank mini was waaaaaay too hot for me

Glass was hot to touch and needed to use a drip tip with a heat sink

Subtank mini is designed for single coil, not dual coil. I'd try it again with a tank designed for dual coil.

 

[2legsshrt]

I would think that YiHi could come up with a better firmware pack when I can take my .28 coil and run it on Ni mode at 275 14-16J and it is stable but on Ti mode the TP jumps around 30-40 degrees. So if it is possible to use it on nickel mode and have it stay steady something should be done. This wire they sent me is 29awg I am sure and it is very thin. I'm going to try to wrap a 5 wrap coil with it which will bring the resistance up to about .5 I think but I can see it will be much harder to work with then the 26 it is so thin

 

[2legsshrt]

Well if I do a 2.5mm coil should be about.45

 

[2legsshrt]

Well IDK what that wire is but if it's 29 it's awful thin. More like 32 couldn't get a coil placed.

 

[burnie71]

Interesting thread guys, I'm sold and will soon order.

 

[JimScotty0]

I have never been a big fan of temperature control. I just don't get the warm vape that I'm use to with kanthal. I'm not blaming the device. I honestly feel that Yihi has done an outstanding job with their interpretation. So maybe it's my building technique. My current kanthal build is a dual coil at 0.5 ohm's at 35 watts in a billow v2. If anyone has any suggestions on a NI 200 build, please share. I have access to 32,30, and 28 gauge NI 200. I also have access to several rta's. Billow, Billow v2, Lemo, Lemo Drop, Lemo 2, STM, Delta 2, and the Zephyrus. Input would be greatly appreciated.

Tapped From My LG G4

Haylon, try this build for your Zephrus but this one is for Ti, it is certainly a warm vape and I am using it for the last couple of days without changing mods since I am loving it so much.

Ti Build - SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 348 | E-Cigarette Forum

Or for NI200 on the Lemo 2 you can try this one which is one of my favorites which gives a nice warm vape too.
NI200 Build - Eleaf Lemo II | Page 53 | E-Cigarette Forum

I think the Zephrus is perfect for Ti because using NI200 your coils would need to be too long and big a coil and it just won't fit in that tight space. Even though I love my Zephrus and would love to try it on Nickel too, it just won't work for me. Maybe with a single coil build it would work, but I like their dual coil setup.

I have since modified my wicking to use the Qorax "Two Cut System" as a few folks here have pointed out lately on ECF. Works like a charm on the Zephrus and my next wicking on my Lemo 2 will be that style too. Using this method I am not getting any anemic hits, it would be a dry or burnt hit if it were not for TC kicking in. The wick really keeps up my vaping so I can go warm, with lots of flavor, and even with chain like vaping.

It is worth taking a look of his technique. This video is for the ERLKONIGIN, but it will work for most other atty's too.

 

[Haylon357]

Great info! I will definitely try the Lemo 2 build. I did manage to slip a dual ni 200 build using 32 gauge. Still didn't have the warmth. Going to dust off the Lemo 2. Thanks again

Tapped From My LG G4

 

[TKS]

Really getting annoyed YiHi keeping titanium update from the rest of the sx350j chips... The heck is taking so long? Last update on the 30th of May.

 

[SX_Vaper]

Need some help here guys. My Kayfun V4 has a nickel build of 28g 3mm diameter 6wraps about 0.10ohm. Initial resistance lock on M class shows 0.12ohm, however after few vapes at 380F, 15J the temperature shows and stuck at 32F (not 320F). The vape became warmer and less flavor. I let it cool down about 10min and reset resistance but it started jump around 0.19-0.41ohm each time I try to lock it and it wouldn't go back to 0.12ohm. I put this K4 on my Evic VT and it constantly shows 0.16ohm with no problem.

So I clean up M class 510 connection thinking there is some problem with it. But it doesn't make any difference. I tried this K4 on my friends brand new M class (preloaded with V2.2) and it locks constantly at 0.12ohm and Vape with no problems like what I faced.

To test if my M class is faulty I screw on my STM with a pretty similar nickel build and it locks at 0.09ohm each time, no jumping. Evic shows 0.10ohm. So I am going clueless now. I can't use my K4 on M class anymore.

My M class has a jumping ohm with Kanthal build both on my STM and K4 with a rather huge jump on 28g but when I use 24g the jump is narrower like 0.01-0.03ohm. So I was thinking maybe it's the cheap quality of Kanthal that I have in hand. There wasn't any problem with any nickel build until the above mentioned starts to give me a real headache.

Btw I have upgrade the firmware from V1.4 to V2.2. I didn't pay much attention to these resistance checking back then when I was on V1.4 though. And yes the connection of the build is secure as I am aware jumping ohm is caused by loose connection.

Any advise would be very very much appreciated. Thank you guys.



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[JimScotty0]

Need some help here guys. My Kayfun V4 has a nickel build of 28g 3mm diameter 6wraps about 0.10ohm. Initial resistance lock on M class shows 0.12ohm, however after few vapes at 380F, 15J the temperature shows and stuck at 32F (not 320F). The vape became warmer and less flavor. I let it cool down about 10min and reset resistance but it started jump around 0.19-0.41ohm each time I try to lock it and it wouldn't go back to 0.12ohm. I put this K4 on my Evic VT and it constantly shows 0.16ohm with no problem.

So I clean up M class 510 connection thinking there is some problem with it. But it doesn't make any difference. I tried this K4 on my friends brand new M class (preloaded with V2.2) and it locks constantly at 0.12ohm and Vape with no problems like what I faced.

To test if my M class is faulty I screw on my STM with a pretty similar nickel build and it locks at 0.09ohm each time, no jumping. Evic shows 0.10ohm. So I am going clueless now. I can't use my K4 on M class anymore.

My M class has a jumping ohm with Kanthal build both on my STM and K4 with a rather huge jump on 28g but when I use 24g the jump is narrower like 0.01-0.03ohm. So I was thinking maybe it's the cheap quality of Kanthal that I have in hand. There wasn't any problem with any nickel build until the above mentioned starts to give me a real headache.

Btw I have upgrade the firmware from V1.4 to V2.2. I didn't pay much attention to these resistance checking back then when I was on V1.4 though. And yes the connection of the build is secure as I am aware jumping ohm is caused by loose connection.

Any advise would be very very much appreciated. Thank you guys.



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I know that there have been some that made the K4 work with TC, but it is also has been identified as very problematic and not recommended for TC. Probably related to internal resistance stability.

Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk

 

[folkphys]

Is it possible that Ti coils in the lower range and thus closer to that of Ni200 builds, say 0.05-0.2 ohms, would perform better in Ni mode? And then the higher-ohmed more comfortable Ti coils which we have assumed to be more like say, 0.2-.04 ohms work better in Ti mode? And all this because of the various differences and similarities between the TCR curves of the two wire types in those two resistance ranges? Because it sure seems that way to me after 1 week of wrestling with floating temp limits of the SXM in Ti mode when using dual coils down to around 0.15 ohms cold resistance. That is to say: I set it to happily chugging away 430F on Day 1, but soon thereafter have to raise or lower that limit in order to avoid overheating juice or else keep the thing from rattlesnaking all over the place before I even get a hint of flavor.

 

[Unior]

I have never been a big fan of temperature control. I just don't get the warm vape that I'm use to with kanthal. I'm not blaming the device. I honestly feel that Yihi has done an outstanding job with their interpretation. So maybe it's my building technique. My current kanthal build is a dual coil at 0.5 ohm's at 35 watts in a billow v2. If anyone has any suggestions on a NI 200 build, please share. I have access to 32,30, and 28 gauge NI 200. I also have access to several rta's. Billow, Billow v2, Lemo, Lemo Drop, Lemo 2, STM, Delta 2, and the Zephyrus. Input would be greatly appreciated.

Tapped From My LG G4

I've had good luck with a single coil on my Lemo 2. 3mm I. D, 8 wraps, comes out to about .10 ohm. Really can go down to 6 wraps for about 0.75ish. For some reason I can never get a good vape with nickel on my STMs at least not for long. Meaning after about half a tank it isn't worth sh't. I am sure it is my error though. The Lemo2 is just a good basic build. Also the coils are spaced BTW. A good way to do this is to wrap an extra wrap & then pull one out. This is shown very briefly toward the end of p. Busardos SXM video part 2. 10 minutes into video.