SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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JimScotty0

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My wire is usually twisted so these cheese head screws really help get a thicker wire held securely under the screw heads. Yesterday I found that they also fit on my Delta 2 so I am using them on there too with the same results as the Lemo 2. I at first tried the post holes but found it created hot legs and with NI200 spaced coils the remedy was to just use the screws instead and that problem went away. The post holes may work fine for Kanthal A1 where you can work the coil to eliminate the hot legs.

The Lemo 2 is still my favorite single coil tank that I use on my SXM. The main problem I have had with the Lemo 2 is the wicking more than any other issue. After many builds and tons of rewicking I now use the Qorax type method of wicking which is essentially puffy shoulders and thin on the wick just touching the deck. Once you get that down, and it isn't intuitive, the Lemo 2 performs great. If you have wicking issues the vape experience is great for a puff or 2 and then it goes anemic. Also airflow can be restrictive if you don't give it room to breath properly and the vape quality goes down. It is a touchy atty to wick just right but when you do you are rewarded with a great vape. If you don't get the wicking just right it can be the most frustrating experience where you are wondering just what did I do wrong and why is it not performing.
 
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Quantum Mech

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Just waiting for my SX Q Class 250w

sx flask shark - Copy.jpg
 

Yozhik

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serious, q class? or a joke? I am gullible like that. wish it is true though. if so better watch out dna200.

After sx 250W q chip, Evolv is going to release it's DNA 400T chip, which requires a 5S LiPo and comes with a special adapter to make toast. Then all the Evolv fanboys will talk about how awesome their shoebox-sized mods are while knocking YiHi because it can't make a crappy toasted cheese sandwich. ;)
 

TheotherSteveS

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After sx 250W q chip, Evolv is going to release it's DNA 400T chip, which requires a 5S LiPo and comes with a special adapter to make toast. Then all the Evolv fanboys will talk about how awesome their shoebox-sized mods are while knocking YiHi because it can't make a crappy toasted cheese sandwich. ;)

The SX 2.5 kW with accessorising laser-welding kit will take care of the 400T...Appropriately supplied by its own Stark Industries Arc reactor..
 

Unior

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Just a thought I assume you are using spaced coil, I made the mistake of using touching coils first time.
Only problems I have had with L2 is getting the thing apart, used vice grips and left no marks really good quality stainless.
Atm using Ti 0.2 ohm 20J 280F in Ni mode, its cool but tasty.
Yep, using spaced. I tried pounding the 510 of the lemo2, cleaning contacts etc. no luck. I dumped tank & coil was not loose. I do use the screws. Anyway, I have another L2 that I am going to try a ni200 build in the next few days. Just to see what happens & go from there.
 

2legsshrt

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So is Ti easier to work with than ni200?
I think so too. Not as easy as Kanthal, I use a coilmaster then stretch the coil out to give me a spaced coil. Still a little weary of using a contact coil. Nickel when I was using it was easy to wrap but you had to be a lot more diligent with connections. It is still kind of a pain because of it's springiness but it sure lasts longer. It is much more durable can be cleaned up really well with hot water and a toothbrush without worrying about deforming it.
 

GeorgeS

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    So is Ti easier to work with than ni200?

    Personally - with the wire sizes I got (same as my Ni200: 28,30,32) I'm not at all happy with Ti - I find it MUCH harder to work with.

    People complain about how "springy" Ni is, IMHO Ni is nothing compared to Ti - at least Ni will stay in place after I wind it and maintain a fairly tightly spaced wrap - no so with the Ti.

    Even with the 28AWG I did so few wraps that the resulting coil had such small wick coverage that I was thrilled to get even a puff of vape out of it. On my IPV4S the Ni mode was rather worthless, switched over to Ni mode and dropped the temperature to 280-300F and while it worked, I can't see how I'm getting more "flavor" out of a coil that covers 1/4 the wick (or less) than I could of with Ni wire of the same gauge.

    I have some 24 and 26AWG Ti on order and I'll try again. Still not to impressed and may stick with Ni for the forseeable future.
     

    Yozhik

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    Personally - with the wire sizes I got (same as my Ni200: 28,30,32) I'm not at all happy with Ti - I find it MUCH harder to work with.

    People complain about how "springy" Ni is, IMHO Ni is nothing compared to Ti - at least Ni will stay in place after I wind it and maintain a fairly tightly spaced wrap - no so with the Ti.

    Even with the 28AWG I did so few wraps that the resulting coil had such small wick coverage that I was thrilled to get even a puff of vape out of it. On my IPV4S the Ni mode was rather worthless, switched over to Ni mode and dropped the temperature to 280-300F and while it worked, I can't see how I'm getting more "flavor" out of a coil that covers 1/4 the wick (or less) than I could of with Ni wire of the same gauge.

    I have some 24 and 26AWG Ti on order and I'll try again. Still not to impressed and may stick with Ni for the forseeable future.

    The only advantage I find in Titanium is that it's easier to make dual coils without issues. Otherwise, I prefer the ease of making single coils using nickel.
     

    GeorgeS

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    The only advantage I find in Titanium is that it's easier to make dual coils without issues. Otherwise, I prefer the ease of making single coils using nickel.
    I can see that. While currently I only have one dual coil NI build up and in use I'm planning on trying a 'dual wind' with the TI wire later today to see if I can get reasonable wick coverage along with a reasonable resistance value.
     
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    nic_fix

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    I hope this helps anyone and is not ot. I figured out if I put the cap on the battery inside the tube already sitting lined up straight. then twist counter clockwise just a drop. like 1/8th turn. then proceed to screw on. this seems to work as long as I do not rush. a pain in an otherwise stellar mod. I much prefer this to doors but they need to get it easier to do. I was going to look into perhaps lube. hate it because mess. still my favorite mod. not entirely perfect but the best combo of what I want that actually works. to me 350j is where it is at. until dna200 has minimum 5000mah battery for me. they can put one in the evic vt so not in the dna blows it for me. 350j or go home.

    I know y'all discussing wire and such but my great grandson builds mine has no problems or questions at all. he is 13 but has expressed no interest in smoking so I figure it is alright. he is all about health.
     

    2legsshrt

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    Personally - with the wire sizes I got (same as my Ni200: 28,30,32) I'm not at all happy with Ti - I find it MUCH harder to work with.

    People complain about how "springy" Ni is, IMHO Ni is nothing compared to Ti - at least Ni will stay in place after I wind it and maintain a fairly tightly spaced wrap - no so with the Ti.

    Even with the 28AWG I did so few wraps that the resulting coil had such small wick coverage that I was thrilled to get even a puff of vape out of it. On my IPV4S the Ni mode was rather worthless, switched over to Ni mode and dropped the temperature to 280-300F and while it worked, I can't see how I'm getting more "flavor" out of a coil that covers 1/4 the wick (or less) than I could of with Ni wire of the same gauge.

    I have some 24 and 26AWG Ti on order and I'll try again. Still not to impressed and may stick with Ni for the forseeable future.
    What brand of wire are you using? I notice the same if I try to hand wrap but with a coilmaster or similar it wraps tight then stretche it out. I never heard anyone complain of nickel being springy it is about the opposite unless you get tempered. One thing I do like about nickel is the TC works properly.
     
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    2legsshrt

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    One thing I have noticed with Ti is, I have COPD pretty bad and it seems like it has been worse since I changed over to Ti. Not sure if that is the cause but I am definately having more shortness of breath. I am going to try an experiment and try a nickel coil on one atty. Like I say it could just be that I am in a damper climate then I am use to but I changed over to all Ti about 4 weeks ago. And it started about 2 weeks ago. I have also heard from another friend that he is having good luck cleaning his Ni coils just like I do with the Ti ones and I have about 150' of NI200 28awg like I like.
     

    GeorgeS

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    What brand of wire are you using? I notice the same if I try to hand wrap but with a coilmaster or similar it wraps tight then stretche it out. I never heard anyone complain of nickel being springy it is about the opposite unless you get tempered. One thing I do like about nickel is the TC works properly.

    I'm using the same TI wire everyone else is from UnkamenSupplies, excepting I bought to small of gauge (have 24 and 26 on order) the NI wire I have is from "Lightning Vapes" or "Master of Clouds" which I ordered off of Amazon. (it is not 'tempered' NI that I know of)

    I did experiment this AM with wrapping TI30 and NI32 together. The result has the nasty springyness of the TI wire but has the lower resistance of the NI wire and the TI wire appears to help the NI wire hold its shape while wicking.

    My "Anyvape" Sega atomizers are very small. Not sure if it is worth trying to see how many wraps of TI I can get in there. I put a twisted 30/32 Ti/Ni experiment in a Kanger Subtank with minor success, if I'm feeling lucky later I may try to outfit one of my Lemo2 clones with ether dual twisted coils or dual 28awg Ti coils.
     
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