SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[JimScotty0]

I'm using the same TI wire everyone else is from UnkamenSupplies, excepting I bought to small of gauge (have 24 and 26 on order) the NI wire I have is from "Lightning Vapes" or "Master of Clouds" which I ordered off of Amazon. (it is not 'tempered' NI that I know of)

I did experiment this AM with wrapping TI30 and NI32 together. The result has the nasty springyness of the TI wire but has the lower resistance of the NI wire and the TI wire appears to help the NI wire hold its shape while wicking.

My "Anyvape" Sega atomizers are very small. Not sure if it is worth trying to see how many wraps of TI I can get in there. I put a twisted 30/32 Ti/Ni experiment in a Kanger Subtank with minor success, if I'm feeling lucky later I may try to outfit one of my Lemo2 clones with ether dual twisted coils or dual 28awg Ti coils.

I built one of my Goliath v2's with 9 wrap 2mm 26ga TI twisted with 30ga NI200 and also my Lemo 2 2.5mm single coil with the same build last week. I like the build and use it on the SXM on either the NI200 or Ti modes. Around 320F on Ni and around 540F on Ti mode using around 28J.

I think what is happening with this build is that the 30ga NI200 which has much lower resistance is heating up the 26ga Ti wire where the Ti resistance is kicking in when the NI200 heats it up. The vapor is very smooth and steady temperature on the display.

In a few days I will be receiving some 24ga Ti and will try that twisted with my 30ga NI200 with the same wraps and build as earlier. My thoughts are that with the 24ga Ti and its lower resistance it will be more competitive with the 30ga NI200 resistance and cause the Ti wire to play a more significant role in the resistance and temperature curve. With this build I would suspect that the Ti mode would be a better choice on the SXM than the NI200 mode.

Another build that I am quite impressed with is a 2x 30ga Kanthal A1 twisted with 30ga NI200. Lots of surface area and works quite well too.

 

[GeorgeS]

I built one of my Goliath v2's with 9 wrap 2mm 26ga TI twisted with 30ga NI200 and also my Lemo 2 2.5mm single coil with the same build last week. I like the build and use it on the SXM on either the NI200 or Ti modes. Around 320F on Ni and around 540F on Ti mode using around 28J.

I think what is happening with this build is that the 30ga NI200 which has much lower resistance is heating up the 26ga Ti wire where the Ti resistance is kicking in when the NI200 heats it up. The vapor is very smooth and steady temperature on the display.

In a few days I will be receiving some 24ga Ti and will try that twisted with my 30ga NI200 with the same wraps and build as earlier. My thoughts are that with the 24ga Ti and its lower resistance it will be more competitive with the 30ga NI200 resistance and cause the Ti wire to play a more significant role in the resistance and temperature curve. With this build I would suspect that the Ti mode would be a better choice on the SXM than the NI200 mode.

Another build that I am quite impressed with is a 2x 30ga Kanthal A1 twisted with 30ga NI200. Lots of surface area and works quite well too.

Those sound pretty cool.

I was able to get a dual coil twisted 30/32 TI/NI installed in a Lemo, outside of wicking issues once I put it all together the TI did end up supporting the very weak 32AWG Ni wire well. After being frustrated with my Lemo build I ventured into dual wind Ni coils - 6 dual wraps of 30AWG Ni on 2.5mm came out to ~0.12ohms. (using the same method with 28AWG Ni had to low resistance for my TC40 to fire it, so I pulled it apart and started over)

Next up was 6-7 dual wraps of 28AWG Ti on 2.5mm. A few dry fires and some squeezes with ceramic tweezers got the coil into decent shape, 0.27ohms installed in a STM RTA2 deck. I ran out of time and will play with wicking it tomorrow.

Since I only have 3 STM's I'll have to pick one out and label it indicating the Ti dual wrap coil installed.

 

[ThunderDan]

Finally tried out a dual 26g Ti coil build in my zephyrus. @JimScotty0 I thought I liked my 26g ni200 single coil in this atty, but nope, you were right, dual Ti coils is where its at.

Also finally caught up on this thread, y'all have slowed down lately, didn't take me as long to catch up this time, heh.

 

[JimScotty0]

Finally tried out a dual 26g Ti coil build in my zephyrus. @JimScotty0 I thought I liked my 26g ni200 single coil in this atty, but nope, you were right, dual Ti coils is where its at.

Also finally caught up on this thread, y'all have slowed down lately, didn't take me as long to catch up this time, heh.

Glad you liked it @ThunderDan! I am vaping on that same thing the last 2 days and loving it too.

 

[2legsshrt]

I built one of my Goliath v2's with 9 wrap 2mm 26ga TI twisted with 30ga NI200 and also my Lemo 2 2.5mm single coil with the same build last week. I like the build and use it on the SXM on either the NI200 or Ti modes. Around 320F on Ni and around 540F on Ti mode using around 28J.

I think what is happening with this build is that the 30ga NI200 which has much lower resistance is heating up the 26ga Ti wire where the Ti resistance is kicking in when the NI200 heats it up. The vapor is very smooth and steady temperature on the display.

In a few days I will be receiving some 24ga Ti and will try that twisted with my 30ga NI200 with the same wraps and build as earlier. My thoughts are that with the 24ga Ti and its lower resistance it will be more competitive with the 30ga NI200 resistance and cause the Ti wire to play a more significant role in the resistance and temperature curve. With this build I would suspect that the Ti mode would be a better choice on the SXM than the NI200 mode.

Another build that I am quite impressed with is a 2x 30ga Kanthal A1 twisted with 30ga NI200. Lots of surface area and works quite well too.

I haven't tried the Unkamen yet have been using Crazy Wire from Vape Mesh and it is vacuum annealed. It is still springy but haven't had that much trouble wraping a single coil. Even my hand wrapped one came out good. It didn't stay as tight as with the coilmaster but works perfectly came out slightly higher at .28 instead of .27 with the coil master but still right in the same range for a 5 wrap 3mm 26awg.

 

[2legsshrt]

I'm using the same TI wire everyone else is from UnkamenSupplies, excepting I bought to small of gauge (have 24 and 26 on order) the NI wire I have is from "Lightning Vapes" or "Master of Clouds" which I ordered off of Amazon. (it is not 'tempered' NI that I know of)

I did experiment this AM with wrapping TI30 and NI32 together. The result has the nasty springyness of the TI wire but has the lower resistance of the NI wire and the TI wire appears to help the NI wire hold its shape while wicking.

My "Anyvape" Sega atomizers are very small. Not sure if it is worth trying to see how many wraps of TI I can get in there. I put a twisted 30/32 Ti/Ni experiment in a Kanger Subtank with minor success, if I'm feeling lucky later I may try to outfit one of my Lemo2 clones with ether dual twisted coils or dual 28awg Ti coils.

I have had really good luck with the Kanger STM with the 5wrap spaced 3mm 26awg Crazy Wire. Run it at about 275 in Ni mode and about 13-14J. Vapes every bit as good as nickel haven't had a bad one yet. I have 5 STM's running that and one now running an NI200 coil to compare and very little difference to me as far as flavor and vapor production. I don't like a real warm vape so this works well for me. I don't blow clouds but more then substantial vapor using a 50/50 blend juice. The only real difference I notice is the settings with Ti I have to run it at 275 with the nickel 390

 

[ThunderDan]

Oh, also @jimscott

Glad you liked it @ThunderDan! I am vaping on that same thing the last 2 days and loving it too.

Since I know you have both, which do you prefer, Goliath v2, or zephyrus? I was thinking about picking up a GV2, but I don't think I'll like it as much as my zephyrus, which leads me to think I should just get a 2nd zephyrus instead.

 

[2legsshrt]

Oh one other thing I've noticed is the longevity with Ti compare with Kanthal so far, I love that and it also seems like the battery lasts longer with Ti. Less amps I guess.

 

[TheBloke]

UK/EU people thinking of getting a SXM, the store that I (and @TheotherSteveS ) got ours from, VapeAndECigStore have a special deal 'while stocks last'

Usual price, £169, but with a free Sigelei Elite Tank II, and two free Samsung 25Rs: SX Mini M-CLASS Powered By YiHi SX350 - With 2 FREE Samsung 25r's + Sigelei Elite Tank II

I have no idea what the Sigelei tank is like, this is the first I've heard of it, but it appears to cost £25 on its own so the total bundle is worth £25 + £13 = £38.

Sucks that Yihi continue price controlling at such a high level, but at least vendors are finding innovative ways to kind-of discount it!

 

[ThunderDan]

UK/EU people thinking of getting a SXM, the store that I (and @TheotherSteveS ) got ours from, VapeAndECigStore have a special deal 'while stocks last'

Usual price, £169, but with a free Sigelei Elite Tank II, and two free Samsung 25Rs: SX Mini M-CLASS Powered By YiHi SX350 - With 2 FREE Samsung 25r's + Sigelei Elite Tank II

I have no idea what the Sigelei tank is like, this is the first I've heard of it, but it appears to cost £25 on its own so the total bundle is worth £25 + £13 = £38.

Sucks that Yihi continue price controlling at such a high level, but at least vendors are finding innovative ways to kind-of discount it!

The elite tank v2 is an OK to good subohm tank. Comes with ni200 coils, pretty good airflow (more than most subohm tanks I've tried) descent juice capacity, and that's about it. Subjective cons are no top fill, proprietary DT, no rba, the airflow while plentiful is loud.

Basically if it had been launched 6 months ago, everyone would love it. As is, it may be too little too late. Still a solid TC subohm tank, the coils do have good flavor, and vapor production, they wick well with the 6 hex holes, but the lack of top fill may have doomed this one before it had a chance.

Edit;

All that said I rather like the tank, replaced the VCT pro/TCT for me, that tank is dead to me now. I don't mind the traditional clearo fill method, or the proprietary DT. I like the vape enough that it doesn't bother me I guess I should say.

 

[JimScotty0]

Oh, also @jimscott

Since I know you have both, which do you prefer, Goliath v2, or zephyrus? I was thinking about picking up a GV2, but I don't think I'll like it as much as my zephyrus, which leads me to think I should just get a 2nd zephyrus instead.

You know I like both to tell you the truth. I think the flavor on the Zephyrus is a bit better but 2mm coils work best with it and the build is very delicate and more tedious but you can see and adjust the build slightly with the ring over the build. It is a 4 post so the coils are slightly shifted to one side. The top fill method with the Zephyrus is much better too. NI200 coils are also available for it if desired. It also sweats quite a bit on the base of the tank between the mod but it doesn't leak. I also like the air cooled top but the drip tip is just too short for me.

The Goliath v2 is an easier more roomy build and I can do a 2.5mm twisted coils with plenty of room for additional wicking. 2 post design so very centered coils and easy to place and adjust. Once wicked and ejuice filled you screw on the tank so do it right because you won't be seeing it or be able to adjust it as the build enters the chimney. The flavor and vapor are also very good. About 2x as much airflow and it does have juice control and wide open will just drink the ejuice. It is more difficult to fill it since you really need a small tip to fill it properly. If you try to do an easy fill by taking off the top cap it is very easy to fill but you are guaranteed a juice bath through the air holes so I don't advise doing it that way as I have seen reviews do. A little base sweating but no leaking at all if bottom filled. An added feature is the rifleiling in the chimney and and drip tip which is also longer.

 

[ThunderDan]

You know I like both to tell you the truth. I think the flavor on the Zephyrus is a bit better but 2mm coils work best with it and the build is very delicate and more tedious but you can see and adjust the build slightly with the ring over the build. It is a 4 post so the coils are slightly shifted to one side. The top fill method with the Zephyrus is much better too. NI200 coils are also available for it if desired. It also sweats quite a bit on the base of the tank between the mod but it doesn't leak. I also like the air cooled top but the drip tip is just too short for me.

The Goliath v2 is an easier more roomy build and I can do a 2.5mm twisted coils with plenty of room for additional wicking. 2 post design so very centered coils and easy to place and adjust. Once wicked and ejuice filled you screw on the tank so do it right because you won't be seeing it or be able to adjust it as the build enters the chimney. The flavor and vapor are also very good. About 2x as much airflow and it does have juice control and wide open will just drink the ejuice. It is more difficult to fill it since you really need a small tip to fill it properly. If you try to do an easy fill by taking off the top cap it is very easy to fill but you are guaranteed a juice bath through the air holes so I don't advise doing it that way as I have seen reviews do. A little base sweating but no leaking at all if bottom filled. An added feature is the rifleiling in the chimney and and drip tip which is also longer.

So it has more airlfow than the zephyrus? Hmm, maybe I will give it a shot then, only a few bucks more than the zephyrus. I kind of hated the Goliath v1, didn't have much airflow, and the build deck was smaller than the goblin, and of course the dumb fill method. Having juice control without top fill is just silly.

 

[JimScotty0]

UK/EU people thinking of getting a SXM, the store that I (and @TheotherSteveS ) got ours from, VapeAndECigStore have a special deal 'while stocks last'

Usual price, £169, but with a free Sigelei Elite Tank II, and two free Samsung 25Rs: SX Mini M-CLASS Powered By YiHi SX350 - With 2 FREE Samsung 25r's + Sigelei Elite Tank II

I have no idea what the Sigelei tank is like, this is the first I've heard of it, but it appears to cost £25 on its own so the total bundle is worth £25 + £13 = £38.

Sucks that Yihi continue price controlling at such a high level, but at least vendors are finding innovative ways to kind-of discount it!

That is actually not a bad deal. I still see popular US web vendors selling the SXM here for $209.99 without anything extra.

 

[TheBloke]

If you try to do an easy fill by taking off the top cap it is very easy to fill but you are guaranteed a juice bath through the air holes so I don't advise doing it that way as I have seen reviews do.

This is how I fill mine exclusively. I find it too annoying to unscrew to fill through the base - I only do that when I want to access the build.

I never get leaking as long as I close the juice control before I fill. Done it dozens of times now without leaks. You can't fill it absolutely full, because if you do a little gets pushed out the top when you screw the top back on. But it's probably 95%.

I haven't decided if they intended top fill or not - it's clearly not a proper feature, there's no hole for it. But because they put in really thick o-rings, the tank stays firmly in place while you unscrew, fill, and then rescrew the top. Maybe they at least had it in mind when designing it. Either way, I find it works very well.

I don't have the Zephyrus, but I do like the Goliath v2. I particularly like their innovation, also on the Goblin Mini, of the single coil adapter - a plastic/rubber thing that fits over one side of the deck blocking not only air but also juice flow. A great idea - I dislike having to stuff cotton to block the deck of other RTAs when I go single coil (which is often.) Another innovation for an RTA displayed in the Goliath v2 is the premade coils. Two come with it, and I used each for 3-4 weeks, putting hundreds of mls of juice through each, one with a very gunky chocolate juice. They kept wicking fine and tasting good the whole time - far more life than I've got out of traditional coil heads. And because they're designed for an RTA base, they have way more juice flow than a normal coil. They basically look like a fixed-position, pre-wicked rebuildable coil. I haven't yet seen replacement coils available to buy but when they are, I will probably be buying some - that is if I don't just re-coil these, which looks very easy; easier than a normal coil head, as they're larger and so more accessible.

I'd say they're definitely the best pre-made coils I've used in a tank. It means the Goliath v2 is, for the first time, an RTA with a pre-made coil option - as opposed to coil-head tanks with optional RTA deck. The former works out a lot better in my view, providing both a full sized rebuildable deck and a capable, well juiced pre-made coil. Whereas the latter often results in smaller/compromised RTA deck, and the coil heads are much smaller.

And they've implemented it well - the entire deck unscrews from the base, allowing you to put in either the RTA deck or the pre-made coil. Then the chimney screws over that.

So the v2 definitely gets my vote. Only disappointment was I often found it hard to access the deck - they've removed the extra-wide ring of the v1, making the tank the same width all the way down, but I find this often makes it very hard to unscrew the base to access the build. And it also makes it look boring and generic, but that's the least important aspect (in my view) in a $40 tank.

 

[ThunderDan]

You guys talked me into it. GV2 ordered, came to just under $33 shipped, so even if I hate it, I'm out basically a pizza delivery order.

 

[TheBloke]

Good stuff. That is how I justify all my purchases, as multiples of take out deliveries. I may now have reached the point where I could have bought the restaurant.

If you haven't already got one, the Aspire Triton is another tank I'm digging. It's my first coil head tank purchase since my first month of vaping (I'm not counting the Gv2 here). Great flavour, top fill, and (some of) the coils are Stainless Steel which give TC in a mod with TCR adjustment (SXK DNA 40 clones; Dicodes chip; DNA 200). I believe there's an optional RTA deck as well but I've not looked at that.

The coils appear to have excellent conductivity: they're labelled as 0.40Ω and actually read 0.40Ω on my mods, where other coil heads measure up to 0.05Ω too high. I thought it could be that the coil was actually 0.37Ω or something, and so the static resistance in the coil head was hidden, but the fact that they work with TC even with the basic SXK chip means they must have a good connection and accurate resistance, because Stainless Steel is right at the lower limits of accuracy even with a proper coil in an RTA.

Definitely my best coil head tank (again not counting the Gv2), though I don't have a huge amount to compare to: before this I only had two cheapo Smoks (GCT, VCT), the Atlantis v1 and the Subtank Mini v1. I skipped the whole second/third gen of coil heads until this Triton.

 

[JimScotty0]

This is how I fill mine exclusively. I find it too annoying to unscrew to fill through the base - I only do that when I want to access the build.

I never get leaking as long as I close the juice control before I fill. Done it dozens of times now without leaks. You can't fill it absolutely full, because if you do a little gets pushed out the top when you screw the top back on. But it's probably 95%.

I haven't decided if they intended top fill or not - it's clearly not a proper feature, there's no hole for it. But because they put in really thick o-rings, the tank stays firmly in place while you unscrew, fill, and then rescrew the top. Maybe they at least had it in mind when designing it. Either way, I find it works very well.

I don't have the Zephyrus, but I do like the Goliath v2. I particularly like their innovation, also on the Goblin Mini, of the single coil adapter - a plastic/rubber thing that fits over one side of the deck blocking not only air but also juice flow. A great idea - I dislike having to stuff cotton to block the deck of other RTAs when I go single coil (which is often.) Another innovation for an RTA displayed in the Goliath v2 is the premade coils. Two come with it, and I used each for 3-4 weeks, putting hundreds of mls of juice through each, one with a very gunky chocolate juice. They kept wicking fine and tasting good the whole time - far more life than I've got out of traditional coil heads. And because they're designed for an RTA base, they have way more juice flow than a normal coil. They basically look like a fixed-position, pre-wicked rebuildable coil. I haven't yet seen replacement coils available to buy but when they are, I will probably be buying some - that is if I don't just re-coil these, which looks very easy; easier than a normal coil head, as they're larger and so more accessible.

I'd say they're definitely the best pre-made coils I've used in a tank. It means the Goliath v2 is, for the first time, an RTA with a pre-made coil option - as opposed to coil-head tanks with optional RTA deck. The former works out a lot better in my view, providing both a full sized rebuildable deck and a capable, well juiced pre-made coil. Whereas the latter often results in smaller/compromised RTA deck, and the coil heads are much smaller.

And they've implemented it well - the entire deck unscrews from the base, allowing you to put in either the RTA deck or the pre-made coil. Then the chimney screws over that.

So the v2 definitely gets my vote. Only disappointment was I often found it hard to access the deck - they've removed the extra-wide ring of the v1, making the tank the same width all the way down, but I find this often makes it very hard to unscrew the base to access the build. And it also makes it look boring and generic, but that's the least important aspect (in my view) in a $40 tank.

@TheBloke I will have to try to top fill again. Tried it twice but leaked badly each time even though like you said the o-rings do hold the glass very well. I think I had the airflow closed off, but can't remember for sure.

I agree with you about it being more than a pre-made coil tank with a buildable base but rather the opposite which is not the normal these days. Yeah, I forgot to mention about the single coil option which they did incorporate quite well but I haven't used it in single coil mode, only in dual.

I haven't tried the premade coils since they were Kanthal A1 and for about 5 months now I have been only using TC. Looking for TC coils for that atty or any premade coils for that matter it just seems to be non-existent at this time.

Just an hour ago I tried some Pima Cotton I just got from Amazon but is now not even listed. That cotton has perfectly straight fibers and besides being very expensive, I am finding that it is just wicking wonderfully in the Goliath v2 with max VG ejuice. The build is a dual coil 26ga Ti with 30ga NI200 and performing quite well at 480F using 30J in SXM Ti mode. I should get some 24ga Ti soon where I will try it twisted with 30ga NI200 to see how it works in Ti mode where I am thinking that the lower resistance of the 24ga Ti will after being heated by the 30ga NI200 will play more as part of the TC algorithm. I think with the 26ga Ti it has some effect but not as much as I believe it will with 24ga Ti. I will have to test it out and see.

 

[TheBloke]

@TheBloke I will have to try to top fill again. Tried it twice but leaked badly each time even though like you said the o-rings do hold the glass very well. I think I had the airflow closed off, but can't remember for sure.

It's the juice control that needs to be closed. You can close air as well if you want but I'm pretty sure that's unnecessary.

What I do is:

1. Rotate the top of the tank counter-clockwise to close juice flow (juice drop to the flat line on the little 'graph' picture)
2. Unscrew top of tank
3. Fill
4. Re-screw top of tank, while holding the top of the tank in the other hand
   1. this is important as it's easy to accidentally re-open the juice control while applying pressure to re-screw the top.
5. Rotate top of the tank clockwise to re-open juice flow

Whole thing only takes a few seconds. Not quite as quick as the Lemo 2, but close.

I haven't tried the premade coils since they were Kanthal A1 and for about 5 months now I have been only using TC. Looking for TC coils for that atty or any premade coils for that matter it just seems to be non-existent at this time.

Yeah these were the first Kanthal I'd vaped for months. Only difference I find is the burnt taste if you don't know you're out of juice (or forget to re-open the juice control after top filling, something I've done a few times.) Actually that again speaks to the quality of these coils: firstly that I got that burnt taste several times but it didn't ruin the continued life of the coil; I didn't continue tasting bad stuff after the occasional quick burnt hit. To me this suggests the cotton is good quality. Secondly, that when I forgot to re-open the juice control, it would take up to 30 minutes before I got that burnt taste. I remember one time I filled the tank just prior to leaving the house. I vaped regularly on a 15 minute drive. Then I sat in the car waiting for someone, almost chain vaping. I was in the car at least a further 15 minutes before I stated to taste dryness, and realised I'd forgotten to re-open the juice control after filling the tank at home. My point in all this is that the juice capacity of that cotton is significant - more than either a coil head or most self-made rebuildable coils.

Just an hour ago I tried some Pima Cotton I just got from Amazon but is now not even listed. That cotton has perfectly straight fibers and besides being very expensive, I am finding that it is just wicking wonderfully in the Goliath v2 with max VG ejuice.

I've not heard of that. Is it normal cotton or similar to Rayon? I've been using Rayon exclusively for a couple of months and really like it. The wicks last for hundreds of mls, potentially weeks or months as long as the juice isn't too gunk-prone.

The build is a dual coil 26ga Ti with 30ga NI200 and performing quite well at 480F using 30J in SXM Ti mode. I should get some 24ga Ti soon where I will try it twisted with 30ga NI200 to see how it works in Ti mode where I am thinking that the lower resistance of the 24ga Ti will after being heated by the 30ga NI200 will play more as part of the TC algorithm. I think with the 26ga Ti it has some effect but not as much as I believe it will with 24ga Ti. I will have to test it out and see.

It's not so much that they have an effect. One or the other wire is the 'active' wire, whose resistance is being detected by the mod. Your former build sounds like the one I ran the numbers on before, in which case it's always the Ni200 's resistance that's detected. Even heated well over 500°F, the Ni200 resistance will be lower than the Titanium. So for TC accuracy it should be close to or identical to a pure Ni200 coil (and if it's not precisely the same, the difference will come from the fact the wire is twisted, not because it's twisted with Titanium specifically.)

With the latter, I believe it will again start out as Ni200 but then before your target temperature the Ni200 will have increased its resistance beyond the Titanium. From that point onwards the Titanium's resistance will be followed. Therefore, the Ni200 profile will be inaccurate - in fact the vape will be basically the same as running Titanium on a Ni200 mod/profile. So if you set a normal target temp - like 480 - you'll end up heating over that, perhaps to 550-600, and likely get dry/burnt hits. The correct target temp would be 100-150°F lower, equivalent to vaping a pure Titanium coil on the Ni200 profile. Though having it follow Ni200 for the first couple of hundred degrees might change that a bit, so it might be a different (and perhaps unpredictable) offset. Anyway, overall it's not going to be accurate unless you choose the Ti profile - though then I am not sure the effect for the first 100-200 degrees before it switches to Titanium. Perhaps that won't make much difference.

All that is if I'm right that 24 Ti + 30 Ni200 achieves that cross-over; I think I ran that combo and showed it would, unless I did 24+32. I can double check tomorrow.

 

[GeorgeS]

If you haven't already got one, the Aspire Triton is another tank I'm digging. It's my first coil head tank purchase since my first month of vaping (I'm not counting the Gv2 here). Great flavour, top fill, and (some of) the coils are Stainless Steel which give TC in a mod with TCR adjustment (SXK DNA 40 clones; Dicodes chip; DNA 200). I believe there's an optional RTA deck as well but I've not looked at that.

I picked up a Triton a few weeks ago. Selling points was that it was an Aspire tank (I've had good luck with them in the past, top fill and has a RTA option.

With that said I'm not exactly to the point of trusting it to not leak enough to take it out with me for the day. It does use the Atlantis coils (which there are a number of Aspire and other maker options) however I found the RTA deck a bit lacking - it might work for Kanthal or Ti coils but I ended up building it much like their BVC's as the wire grabber in the base won't grab +30AWG Ni and I could not get enough windings in the standard horizontal configuration. Anyvape has a RTA deck that fits and works in the Triton that could be described as a mini STM2 RTA deck. While the Triton's top fill design is unique, (it attempts to shut off the juice flow to the coil while filling) I like the fill port of my Lemo2 better.

Personally between the: Triton, top fill modified STM, Anyvape Sega and Lemo2 I use the STM and Lemo2 more. The Anyvape Sega leaked out of the top 2 days in a row while sitting on its side so I may give the Triton another chance.

 

[JimScotty0]

It's the juice control that needs to be closed. You can close air as well if you want but I'm pretty sure that's unnecessary.

What I do is:

1. Rotate the top of the tank counter-clockwise to close juice flow (juice drop to the flat line on the little 'graph' picture)
2. Unscrew top of tank
3. Fill
4. Re-screw top of tank, while holding the top of the tank in the other hand
   1. this is important as it's easy to accidentally re-open the juice control while applying pressure to re-screw the top.
5. Rotate top of the tank clockwise to re-open juice flow

Whole thing only takes a few seconds. Not quite as quick as the Lemo 2, but close.



Yeah these were the first Kanthal I'd vaped for months. Only difference I find is the burnt taste if you don't know you're out of juice (or forget to re-open the juice control after top filling, something I've done a few times.) Actually that again speaks to the quality of these coils: firstly that I got that burnt taste several times but it didn't ruin the continued life of the coil; I didn't continue tasting bad stuff after the occasional quick burnt hit. To me this suggests the cotton is good quality. Secondly, that when I forgot to re-open the juice control, it would take up to 30 minutes before I got that burnt taste. I remember one time I filled the tank just prior to leaving the house. I vaped regularly on a 15 minute drive. Then I sat in the car waiting for someone, almost chain vaping. I was in the car at least a further 15 minutes before I stated to taste dryness, and realised I'd forgotten to re-open the juice control after filling the tank at home. My point in all this is that the juice capacity of that cotton is significant - more than either a coil head or most self-made rebuildable coils.



I've not heard of that. Is it normal cotton or similar to Rayon? I've been using Rayon exclusively for a couple of months and really like it. The wicks last for hundreds of mls, potentially weeks or months as long as the juice isn't too gunk-prone.



It's not so much that they have an effect. One or the other wire is the 'active' wire, whose resistance is being detected by the mod. Your former build sounds like the one I ran the numbers on before, in which case it's always the Ni200 's resistance that's detected. Even heated well over 500°F, the Ni200 resistance will be lower than the Titanium. So for TC accuracy it should be close to or identical to a pure Ni200 coil (and if it's not precisely the same, the difference will come from the fact the wire is twisted, not because it's twisted with Titanium specifically.)

With the latter, I believe it will again start out as Ni200 but then before your target temperature the Ni200 will have increased its resistance beyond the Titanium. From that point onwards the Titanium's resistance will be followed. Therefore, the Ni200 profile will be inaccurate - in fact the vape will be basically the same as running Titanium on a Ni200 mod/profile. So if you set a normal target temp - like 480 - you'll end up heating over that, perhaps to 550-600, and likely get dry/burnt hits. The correct target temp would be 100-150°F lower, equivalent to vaping a pure Titanium coil on the Ni200 profile. Though having it follow Ni200 for the first couple of hundred degrees might change that a bit, so it might be a different (and perhaps unpredictable) offset. Anyway, overall it's not going to be accurate unless you choose the Ti profile - though then I am not sure the effect for the first 100-200 degrees before it switches to Titanium. Perhaps that won't make much difference.

All that is if I'm right that 24 Ti + 30 Ni200 achieves that cross-over; I think I ran that combo and showed it would, unless I did 24+32. I can double check tomorrow.

Ahh yes, the juice control and not the air control, or maybe both. That I didn't do and always forget about that juice control for the most part as I usually just leave it wide open. I will try that tonight as I finish up this tank. I bet that will do it.

Yep, it is that cross over I am hoping for with the 24ga Ti. Using my 26ga Ti in Ti mode on the SXM does work fine for the initial 200-300 degrees or so and does catch up when it reaches temp but I think the 24ga Ti will be better. It reaches 500F temp in about a second so it is fast. My 24ga Ti is expected to arrive tomorrow so I am anxious to give it a try on one of my Goliath v2's in Ti mode and see what to expect.