SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Unior

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In an attempt to resolve the battery cap issuesI purchased 3 battery caps from Vaitube. 2of the 3 work perfectly and secure the battery. The 3rd has has the same issue as the one that came from the factory.
The brass sleeve is in perfect shape. No issues with the threads. Hopefully they will upgrade that feature along with paint issues.
Still the best chip on the market IMHO


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So just to be clear 2 of your 3 you can put cap in & it clicks into place the first time without having to try it 100 different ways? I didn't know that a different cap would make a difference. I thought it was just the way it is with the mod. But if that is not the case I may order some.
I just got an SX S- class to go with my M-class & the battery cap on it is so easy to put in vs the SXMM. I couldn't believe it.
 

ThunderDan

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2legsshrt

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Well with my extensive testing, hand to mouth. Unkamen 26 and Crazy Wire 26. I built 3 coils yesterday all 5 wrap 3mm spaced wicked exactly the same. So far the taste is excellent with both the vapor seems a little thicker with the Unk and it also seems to use a little more juice. The resistance is slightly lower with the Unk but they both seem to work great. I am using them all in STM's on SXM's at 265F 13J, Temp seems to hit faster with the CW maybe1-2sec. I haven't cleaned any yet so not sure about the etching in the Unk from acid wash but both vape great. Oh and I forgot the BBQ taste with Unk and Fish and Chips with CW. LOL
 
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Jake67

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So just to be clear 2 of your 3 you can put cap in & it clicks into place the first time without having to try it 100 different ways? I didn't know that a different cap would make a difference. I thought it was just the way it is with the mod. But if that is not the case I may order some.
I just got an SX S- class to go with my M-class & the battery cap on it is so easy to put in vs the SXMM. I couldn't believe it.
I also own the S class. To make sure the threads were not damaged I took the battery cap off S and tried it on the M class. Perfect fit no issues. I figured I order a few just for the hell of it. As I said 2 of 3 new ones fit perfectly no issues with the threads. The third doesn't grab the M. It does work on the S.
Varitube has them , I received them in 2 days.
Have you tried using the cap from the S in the M? I did it worked but was a little shorter.
Varitube told me they should be interchangeable. For me the S class has no issue with either cap.


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Unior

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I also own the S class. To make sure the threads were not damaged I took the battery cap off S and tried it on the M class. Perfect fit no issues. I figured I order a few just for the hell of it. As I said 2 of 3 new ones fit perfectly no issues with the threads. The third doesn't grab the M. It does work on the S.
Varitube has them , I received them in 2 days.
Have you tried using the cap from the S in the M? I did it worked but was a little shorter.
Varitube told me they should be interchangeable. For me the S class has no issue with either cap.


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I will try to change those out tonight & see what happens. Thanks!
 
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Bikenstein

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I also own the S class. To make sure the threads were not damaged I took the battery cap off S and tried it on the M class. Perfect fit no issues.
Have you tried using the cap from the S in the M? I did it worked but was a little shorter.
Varitube told me they should be interchangeable. For me the S class has no issue with either cap.

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Does that mean it screws on and off any quicker?
 
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ThunderDan

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I am almost out of nickel finally. Going to order a new wire. So it sounds like Ti is the way to go. ? I live in the U.S., where is the best place to order Ti from? Also since I have never used Ti what Gauge is best to start?
Pure Titanium Wire 100% Guarantee Specific by UnkamenSupplies

That stuff isn't bad, and is cheapish. 26g seems to be the general consensus for starters. 24g maybe if you use RDAs a lot and want to throw more joules at it.
 

2legsshrt

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Pure Titanium Wire 100% Guarantee Specific by UnkamenSupplies

That stuff isn't bad, and is cheapish. 26g seems to be the general consensus for starters. 24g maybe if you use RDAs a lot and want to throw more joules at it.
I agree I am trying it now. Have been using Crazy Wire and it is good but the Unk really puts out the vapor it also uses about twice the juice but the vape is worth it. It's the only wire that doesn't have a shiny finish so haven't gotten to the point of cleaning it yet but I hear it works ok.
 

Technonut

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The SXmini M Class has not been without issues for me. The S Class on the other hand, has been a solid performer since I purchased it when they were first made available.

Lets' see.. So far with the M Class:

E-liquid leaking past the 510 gasket into the battery tube, and inside of the mod. e-liquid was actually coming out of the C frame seams. Kind of my fault for using an RDA with a BF'er pin, but it still should not have gotten past the gasket IMO, and what if one wanted to use an open pin atty, or one of the new Ni200 cartos?

Peeling paint issue. (Resolved by Varitube with a replacement unit)

Replacement unit had rattling +/- buttons, and the battery charging indicator "lightening bolt" became stuck, no longer showing the bar. Varitube resolved the rattling +/- button issue for me, and did not see the charging indicator issue.. Must have worked again when returned, and for a couple of hours after I received it back. Had to send it back again for an entire board replacement when the issue reappeared (under warranty). I should note that I never used the USB port for charging, so the stuck "lightening bolt" wasn't due to that.. It just appeared, and stuck there..

Unit again has peeling paint issue, and also a top cap which either is not totally flat, or the 510 threading is off, causing a noticeable atty lean (especially when taller tanks are installed)..

Don't get me wrong, I love the SX350J board, and how well it works using temp-protection, but to say someone just has "bad luck", or "user error", just isn't always the case. ;) I've seen almost all of the same issues I've experienced reported from others at the SXmini Brotherhood FB group, so I know they are not isolated. Not common perhaps, but happening nonetheless.
 
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Lemwise

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It sucks you're having so may issues with your SXMM. I bought mine just after it was released and it has been faultless. The only thing that slightly annoyed my was the button rattle on the + and - button but that was quickly resolved with a pair of €10 custom buttons. It took me 10 minutes to replace to original buttons and once that was done I had a prefect mod.
 
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nic_fix

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geez, sorry about that. it has issues across the board but maybe those are duds. mine is solid except for two issues. the paint. the battery cap. seems to be on all of them. the battery cap is easy if you rest it on the battery, center it until it clicks. still a pain. I am torn because I love the 350j. I love the form factor and weight of this mod.

perhaps flask will do the 350j justice. don't know yet. my flask dna40 is not perfect but overall less issues than sxm. if they go look for a cheap jobber in china maybe all bets are off on that one too.

I know people at hana. perhaps I can convince them to swap the 350j from the sxm into a hana body. I doubt it though. there are issues if anyone would see that.

I think yihi does not sell the chip to just anyone. therein lies the problem. other wise I am sure this would be in mods like tophat and twotonian. be prepared to pay for those though.

no doubt there are way better mods at higher price pints but as of yet no 350j. I honestly think the thing vapes much better than dna200. plus I cannot personally be tied to a lipo. unless it was like one million mah lol.
 

Jake67

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Hopefully Yihi will is watching. The chip is the best I've come across so far. I love the way it functions. I also love the design and the heft of the device.
They should be able to fix the paint issues. I know the battery cap can be resolved. They just need to up the QC a bit and I think they will have one mother of of mod.
Have a great Labor Day for you folks in the USA


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Yozhik

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I finally picked up a DNA200 and have been playing with it. It has some nice features, but my go to chip remains the sx350j. To really get the DNA200 to work well, one has to use escribe to setup a preset (e.g., the default preheat of 200W is way too much for my RTAs and gives a nasty initial hit, so I had to set the preheat lower). Escribe works, but it's painfully slow on updating and is the only way to adjust certain things, such as the preheat settings. With the SX350j, anything I need to quickly change can be done with the menu settings or up/down button. Thus, the SXM I find is much more on the go friendly than the DNA200 (which really needs to be hooked up to a PC to access functionality that should have been available from an on-chip menu system).

Also, now that I'm used to the Joules counter, it's something I really miss on the DNA200. For example, my battery bar is claiming it's full on the SXM, but I've already used 5.5kJ, so I know I've used 20% of my battery. Unlike a battery bar, which is just based off the battery voltage, a Joules counter gives me a much more accurate measure of my usage.
 

tony7432

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The SXmini M Class has not been without issues for me. The S Class on the other hand, has been a solid performer since I purchased it when they were first made available.

Lets' see.. So far with the M Class:

E-liquid leaking past the 510 gasket into the battery tube, and inside of the mod. e-liquid was actually coming out of the C frame seams. Kind of my fault for using an RDA with a BF'er pin, but it still should not have gotten past the gasket IMO, and what if one wanted to use an open pin atty, or one of the new Ni200 cartos?

Peeling paint issue. (Resolved by Varitube with a replacement unit)

Replacement unit had rattling +/- buttons, and the battery charging indicator "lightening bolt" became stuck, no longer showing the bar. Varitube resolved the rattling +/- button issue for me, and did not see the charging indicator issue.. Must have worked again when returned, and for a couple of hours after I received it back. Had to send it back again for an entire board replacement when the issue reappeared (under warranty). I should note that I never used the USB port for charging, so the stuck "lightening bolt" wasn't due to that.. It just appeared, and stuck there..

Unit again has peeling paint issue, and also a top cap which either is not totally flat, or the 510 threading is off, causing a noticeable atty lean (especially when taller tanks are installed)..

Don't get me wrong, I love the SX350J board, and how well it works using temp-protection, but to say someone just has "bad luck", or "user error", just isn't always the case. ;) I've seen almost all of the same issues I've experienced reported from others at the SXmini Brotherhood FB group, so I know they are not isolated. Not common perhaps, but happening nonetheless.
that sucks man, but dont give up on it..do what you can to get the few things worked out trust me its worth it..if it was any other unit id say it defeats the purpose of vaping with all the frustration its giving you..but this unit is worth the headache of working it along to get the bugs out..
 
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