Only just started using TC on this last night. Use TC on a different mod. A friend put the TC mod on so I didn't look. Vaped an hour. Took it off, put on a new cloud atty i hated. It required 50watts. That's when I noticed it wouldn't go past 40 but hated the atty/took it off. Vaped my own atty at 18.5w since but just tried it again. SHORT answer? I can't bet my life on it being at 2.32. Was there when updated and had latest in October. Will know better when updated tomorrow. It has, without a doubt been at 50w before
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Only just started using TC on this last night. Use TC on a different mod. A friend put the TC mod on so I didn't look. Vaped an hour. Took it off, put on a new cloud atty i hated. It required 50watts. That's when I noticed it wouldn't go past 40 but hated the atty/took it off. Vaped my own atty at 18.5w since but just tried it again. SHORT answer? I can't bet my life on it being at 2.32. Was there when updated and had latest in October. Will know better when updated tomorrow. It has, without a doubt been at 50w before
2.32 was release around October 10th so it would depend when it was updated and what was available and used. But if you don't get a Compensate Temp after you lock the resistance it would probably be 2.23. At any rate if you cant get it resolved with those suggestions Yihi has been excellent in warranty service from what I've read, contact your vendor and send cservice@yihisxmini.com a note. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
I use a MacBook, update is possible using Mac, just install the app under WINE(crossover) environment, it works fine.
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Parallels Desktop. True. Admittedly gives me shivers. No, this might be a good excuse to go to the store I bought it from and browse the new ML as well. Kill 2 birds, one stone. Thanks.
But you are confirming that you have done it and it does work, right??
Edit: Check like if that is confirmed. Thx
But you are confirming that you have done it and it does work, right??
Edit: Check like if that is confirmed. Thx
It seems like with all the equipment out that requires Windows to update it or run the control programs. You Mac guys might be better off buying a cheap tablet with a USB port that runs Windows. I thought at Christmas time I saw some in the $50 range. Just thinking out loud here.
Cheers,
Steve
Cheers,
Steve
A lot of folks are doing just that.... grabbing a Windows tablet. Maybe Yihi will come out with a Mac version (and other board manufacturers also).
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Not a bad idea. Bought a Windows laptop to keep fingers in Windows. But never used it. 1 year in sold it. 2 months later for first time needed Windows. Murphy's Law.
Buy 1 tomorrow-Yihi will come out with OSX version next day..lol
Buy 1 tomorrow-Yihi will come out with OSX version next day..lol
For me, I'll never go back to the dark side of Windows again.
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Go for an app called Crossover, it uses WINE environment, you can install all WIN programs and run directly on OSX no windows required.
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Thx. Checked it out. I would only use Windows maybe 2-3x a year to update. At $58 per year to use, for 3x at most, I dont mind if I have to head to a friends computer when I have time. I have Parallel Desktop but just never got around to installing it for the same reason.
Does anyone knows the ml class device id? Thinking of force update the firmware of the m class to ml class firmware.
It's a different chip and quite possibly a slightly different instruction set as well as other potential programmatic differences.
Have you attempted to change modes, say to Eco or Powerful or fire it when that happens? If I recall correctly all modes screen on time is 60sec except for Eco which is 5sec.
That happens sometimes on mine too, but it goes away on its own; without having to turn the mod off.
After messing around quite a bit I've found that with the SXmini M with 2.32 firmware I can reproduce a lit screen that doesn't appear to go off until a button is depressed. This is very similar to what we found in the SXmini Ml thread where if you hit the fire button very quickly (not long enough to actually fire) the joule counter will count up a bit and then stop but the screen doesn't go to sleep when it should after it does this. Not sure if this is what your wife is experiencing or not Haylon357 but after I've reproduced it I can hit any button and it will dim as it should.
For what its worth, my M series somehow corrupted the final update but just had it re-updated and works perfectly again.
Was thinking of getting the ML as well when there but the salesperson said that aside from the software, which I wouldn't use, they were equal at this moment.
I dont think there will be further updates for the M class but after 6-8 months of TC, I'm not sold on it anyhow.
Was thinking of getting the ML as well when there but the salesperson said that aside from the software, which I wouldn't use, they were equal at this moment.
I dont think there will be further updates for the M class but after 6-8 months of TC, I'm not sold on it anyhow.
I'm not as scientific as most of you but this does seem to vbe a place that we can share some experiences.
I'm on my first build with UD SS 316L. I used .00121 as my TCR. I have a dual 7 wrap 2.4 ID build on a Velocity clone and this thing is KICKING. Way better flavor and vapor than I was getting with a similar Ti build.
My temp doesn't seem to be going over 360F, which is interesting, because right now I have it set at 40J and 525F. That just happened to be what I had set for my last Ti build (in the same atomizer) and I tried it there first. It seems to be perfect.
I'm on my first build with UD SS 316L. I used .00121 as my TCR. I have a dual 7 wrap 2.4 ID build on a Velocity clone and this thing is KICKING. Way better flavor and vapor than I was getting with a similar Ti build.
My temp doesn't seem to be going over 360F, which is interesting, because right now I have it set at 40J and 525F. That just happened to be what I had set for my last Ti build (in the same atomizer) and I tried it there first. It seems to be perfect.
I'm not sure where you got that tcr but SS 316L is supposed to be around .00092. I could be wrong but I've seen multiple places saying .00092 is the correct tcr. That is why it is "kicking" so much lol. I just did a 316L fused Clapton on my m class and it did ok but was lacking even though the flavor seemed slightly better then titanium. I just bought some 304 SS because the tcr is a little higher then 316L so it will be more accurate in TC. I will be trying another fused Clapton or alien when the 304 gets in to see if it could replace my trustworthy titanium. And like I said try bringing the tcr down to .00092 and see how it is.
I did some digging on this thread and found the person that did the water test and came up with .00121 and it seems to work well. I'm glad you said that because I've had this UD 316L wire for a while but I always just use titanium and kanthal. Thank you for posting that on the same day I finally messed around with SS again lol.
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