They changed up. The next iteration of sales comes without battery, just the wire. The older comes with both.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I can assure you it will give you a dry hit with kanthal if the wicking isn't up to par or if you chain vape faster than the wicking can absorb juice.
I've been using vaporshark dna40s almost exclusively since the release.
In kanthal mode any mod can give you a dry hit. That's more an issue with the atimizer, build, juice and how you vape.
I believe you but there is a difference and I never considered I had that wild of an imagination.I can assure you it will give you a dry hit with kanthal if the wicking isn't up to par or if you chain vape faster than the wicking can absorb juice.
All I can say is set at 400 with the same atomizer, build, juice, and how I vape, I'm not getting dry hits on the VS like I do the iStick. I know it's designed to work with nickel and won't sense the temperature with the kanthal but it is different or I'm perceiving it as different
All I can say is set at 400 with the same atomizer, build, juice, and how I vape, I'm not getting dry hits on the VS like I do the iStick. I know it's designed to work with nickel and won't sense the temperature with the kanthal but it is different or I'm perceiving it as different
You must be perceiving it or something else is going on. Temp limiting doesn't work with kanthal. You can set it, but if you look the output should be in volts not degrees.
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Remember that the resistance changes with heat in tc mode. So it might be 30a cold but it is going to change very quickly as the coil heats up. I don't know exact amounts but I know it is not just a few .0x it is .x
Which iStick are you using Bikenstein? The OG iStick 20w was notorious for 'hitting too hard" and not being very accurate due to its use of pulse width modulation (and the fairly poor implementation at that). It was pretty easy to get more power than you asked for when using one.
From the ariticle: The likelihood is that in the new Evolv temperature-protected mods the wire poses much less of a hazard as it will not oxidise as quickly or be pushed to ignition temperature
I have tried 28 Gauge Grade 1 titanium on my DNA 40 and at lower temps it does work pretty well but I definitely wasn't getting the same flavor as I'm getting from the NI200. Plus it seems to make the juice heat up strangely and crackle more than the NI200! I have yet to try it on the SX Mini but from what I've heard it seems like the DNA40 is more suited to TI.
I just can't do the titanium thing, I'll let others play with that particular metal
Titanium wires for vaping
I started a thread on Ti and safety so take a look maybe. The stuff mentioned in this link is largely BS as it is almost certain that the wrong grade of Ti wire was being used. Ti wire is coated with a thin layer of TiO2 which is what makes it chemically inert. If you dry burn all to h3ll it will end up with a crust of further oxidation. With sensible use, I doubt it any more toxic/dnagerous than Ni (Ni oxide is far more toxic than TiO2 btw..).
Anyway its an individual choice. Works great for me. I have done a lot of research on this and I am happy the risks are no greater than using Ni (and probably Kanthal for that matter)!
Kinda confused here... I tried a twisted 30AWG Ni200 build on my dark horse.
dual coils, 8 spaced wraps for each coil, all posts firmly attached. Steam Engine predicted .11 Ohms. I read .08 on my meter.
SXmini reads it at .056... Hmm
I've checked for shorts, and don't see anything that sticks out like a sore thumb.
Any ideas? I know we're working with super low ohms here, but is that kind of discrepancy between the estimated value, the metered value, and what the device reads usually this far off?
I'll try again with just 30AWG and try to wrap it around the heads of the post screws rather than through the post holes. I don't think it would survive getting clamped into the post holes of the dark horse without some reinforcement, they're pretty massive
dual coils, 8 spaced wraps for each coil, all posts firmly attached. Steam Engine predicted .11 Ohms. I read .08 on my meter.
SXmini reads it at .056... Hmm
I've checked for shorts, and don't see anything that sticks out like a sore thumb.
Any ideas? I know we're working with super low ohms here, but is that kind of discrepancy between the estimated value, the metered value, and what the device reads usually this far off?
I'll try again with just 30AWG and try to wrap it around the heads of the post screws rather than through the post holes. I don't think it would survive getting clamped into the post holes of the dark horse without some reinforcement, they're pretty massive
What ID are you using? 8 wraps in a dual 30ga setup should put you around 0.07-0.08-ish, just like your meter showed you, so methinks you read Steam Engine wrong, or input the wrong values.
Did you actually try firing it? Sure sounds like a short on one of the coils to me.
As for the post holes, one trick is to use a piece of Kanthal in there with the Ni200 legs.
EDIT: Missed the "twisted" part. With twisted 30ga, you're going to ohm out closer to 27-28ga, so guess what? 0.05ish. Yihi does not speak with forked tongue.
Did you actually try firing it? Sure sounds like a short on one of the coils to me.
As for the post holes, one trick is to use a piece of Kanthal in there with the Ni200 legs.
EDIT: Missed the "twisted" part. With twisted 30ga, you're going to ohm out closer to 27-28ga, so guess what? 0.05ish. Yihi does not speak with forked tongue.
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May be you forgot to click Dual Coils under set up.
I ran these numbers:
Nickel 200 round,twisted/parallel
Twist pitch 1.0mm
Number of strands 2
Dia. of wire 30AWG
Set up Dual Coil
Target resistance 0.056
Inner Dia. of coil 3mm
and got 8.34 wraps.
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Dam718, what coil diameter just out of interest...? Also, I have tried hard to use dual coils and it really is a PITA. They need to be as near identical as makes no difference and that is tough, at least for my limited coiling skill!
It's a 3mm ID... Sorry, forgot to mention that
Just figured out where I was messing it all up... I had Steam Engine set up for a twisted SINGLE coil, instead of dual coils...
I took out one coil, and BAM I'm right at .11 ohms, which is what I was aiming for. So steam engine was right on the money. It was me that was all jacked up No shorts in the coil, just a short in my brain
And yes, I did fire it... LoL, as dangerous as it seemed, I was pretty certain the battery could handle it (LG HE4), so I wanted to see if it really could fire a coil that low. It actually worked great. The SXmini got pretty warm, as can be expected, but it worked like a champ.
Just figured out where I was messing it all up... I had Steam Engine set up for a twisted SINGLE coil, instead of dual coils...
I took out one coil, and BAM I'm right at .11 ohms, which is what I was aiming for. So steam engine was right on the money. It was me that was all jacked up
No shorts in the coil, just a short in my brainAnd yes, I did fire it... LoL, as dangerous as it seemed, I was pretty certain the battery could handle it (LG HE4), so I wanted to see if it really could fire a coil that low. It actually worked great. The SXmini got pretty warm, as can be expected, but it worked like a champ.
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