SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[tchavei]

So played around with some 28ga. Resistance came in @ .147. Hits temp limit within 1 second @ 420F. The temp number also jumps all the way up to 460 when its doing its readings as I am firing it.

I can't get this thing to produce near what a small 5-6 wrap 24ga kanthal coil can do. I was just on dual micro coils with the wicks underneath @ .4 ohms and it was produces such warm-hot vapor instantly. Can't get this TC right.

Another thing is I checked the resistance three times after putting in the .147 and the third time it read .007 like it always likes to do....

I just manually set it to .22x after firing it for a couple seconds and it worked like I want it to. Lots of warm vapor for a single coil. Started throttling the temperature after the wicks actually started drying out. Before I could hold the fire button for 10 minutes and it wouldn't be dry. It was TINY puffs coming off the coil.

I take the wire off the spool, wrap it around the screwdriver, put it in the posts, tighten it down, set resistance, press the fire button, get disappointed.

Tp devices don't deal well with dual coils. It's bad enough the devices calculating average temp based on average resistance (we know the coils get hotter in the middle) but by using two coils all you're doing is increasing the margin of error because the temperature will be based on the average resistance across both coils so one might be indeed much hotter than the other.

You said microcoils... Are you using full contact coils or have them spaced out?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[dannyben]

So played around with some 28ga. Resistance came in @ .147. Hits temp limit within 1 second @ 420F. The temp number also jumps all the way up to 460 when its doing its readings as I am firing it.

I can't get this thing to produce near what a small 5-6 wrap 24ga kanthal coil can do. I was just on dual micro coils with the wicks underneath @ .4 ohms and it was produces such warm-hot vapor instantly. Can't get this TC right.

Another thing is I checked the resistance three times after putting in the .147 and the third time it read .007 like it always likes to do....

I just manually set it to .22x after firing it for a couple seconds and it worked like I want it to. Lots of warm vapor for a single coil. Started throttling the temperature after the wicks actually started drying out. Before I could hold the fire button for 10 minutes and it wouldn't be dry. It was TINY puffs coming off the coil.

I take the wire off the spool, wrap it around the screwdriver, put it in the posts, tighten it down, set resistance, press the fire button, get disappointed.

By manually I mean I set it when it was still slightly warm. Bad wording.

It sounds to me as if you are use (in Kanthal Non TC mode) to a high wattage, high temp vape. Now you are setting you Ni200 build to 420 degrees which will limit the temp to WAY below what you are used to / looking for. Why fool the device by setting the wrong resistance. That will simply cause the temp to be much hotter then displaying. If you want a warmer constant temp, just raise the 420 to 480,520,580,etc... Or maybe you don't prefer the constant continuous temperature vape and would like the power/wattage mode better.

 

[Yozhik]

So I've been able to play with my new SX Mini M-class for a day now. I really haven't used it much for Kanthal, but it worked fine with my Nautilus Mini. However, with temperature control I've gotten some insights.

First, my Kanger subtank mini's RDA is not so good with temperature control. It started out fine, but then I started getting DRY COIL warnings. I thought maybe it was a wicking problem, but even after a new wick, coil, etc. the problem came back repeatedly. After lots of fidgeting and fussing about, my guess is that the e-liquid is seeping into the 510 connector of the RDA, as the resistance was always above what it should be even after a long rest. If nothing else, one thing that will trigger a DRY COIL warning I've discovered is if your resistance increases too much. The device likely assumes this is latent heat in the coil not being cooled by e-liquid, but in my case it's the bad connection.

Otherwise, my Magna clone is working great so far. With that, I've seen TC is really a lot easier to work with when sub-ohming than VV/VW. Just build the coil, set the temp, and enjoy. No having to make sure you build the exact same coil as before or fidgeting around with wattage levels, just enjoy your vape instead.

 

[ThunderDan]

It sounds to me as if you are use (in Kanthal Non TC mode) to a high wattage, high temp vape. Now you are setting you Ni200 build to 420 degrees which will limit the temp to WAY below what you are used to / looking for. Why fool the device by setting the wrong resistance. That will simply cause the temp to be much hotter then displaying. If you want a warmer constant temp, just raise the 420 to 480,520,580,etc... Or maybe you don't prefer the constant continuous temperature vape and would like the power/wattage mode better.

That is what I gathered as well. If he's used to 24g kanthal builds on a mech, its going to be way different using ni200 and TC at 420F. Its definitely different for me, I know several people that just don't care for TC, even with it working 100% correctly, they just prefer the heat / intensity / formaldehyde (jk, kinda) of a sub ohm build on a mech, or 100W on a regulated device.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I too have had a geat experience with the Magma on both chiNA40 and SX. Rock solid! As solid as kanthal. Have to say that ST mini with RBA has been fine also (with Ti!). They are clearly finicky though for reasons that remain unclear, at least to me!

 

[ThunderDan]

So I've been able to play with my new SX Mini M-class for a day now. I really haven't used it much for Kanthal, but it worked fine with my Nautilus Mini. However, with temperature control I've gotten some insights.

First, my Kanger subtank mini's RDA is not so good with temperature control. It started out fine, but then I started getting DRY COIL warnings. I thought maybe it was a wicking problem, but even after a new wick, coil, etc. the problem came back repeatedly. After lots of fidgeting and fussing about, my guess is that the e-liquid is seeping into the 510 connector of the RDA, as the resistance was always above what it should be even after a long rest. If nothing else, one thing that will trigger a DRY COIL warning I've discovered is if your resistance increases too much. The device likely assumes this is latent heat in the coil not being cooled by e-liquid, but in my case it's the bad connection.

Otherwise, my Magna clone is working great so far. With that, I've seen TC is really a lot easier to work with when sub-ohming than VV/VW. Just build the coil, set the temp, and enjoy. No having to make sure you build the exact same coil as before or fidgeting around with wattage levels, just enjoy your vape instead.

Hmm, that is odd. I've been using my STmini with a 28g ni200 build for the last two days, and its been solid as a snake.

I would say give it another try, it should work like a charm. It even works well on a DNA40 for me.

 

[dannyben]

chiNA40

Thats the funniest thing I've heard all day! Is that pronounced chee-n-a?

 

[Vlad1]

Hmm, that is odd. I've been using my STmini with a 28g ni200 build for the last two days, and its been solid as a snake.

I would say give it another try, it should work like a charm. It even works well on a DNA40 for me.

Yea I've been using Subtank mini for 8 days on mine and it's been flawless. I'm not using the occ coils with ni200 only the rba deck.

 

[ThunderDan]

Yea I've been using Subtank mini for 8 days on mine and it's been flawless. I'm not using the occ coils with ni200 only the rba deck.

Nice. Yeah, I tested out the ni200 OCCs first before reverting back to the mini RBA, which has always been solid even on the DNA40 (unlike the ni200 OCCs).

 

[Sptz]

That's really dependent on the size and resistance of your coil what you have your joules and temp set to as well as how wet and how tight your wicking is in your coil. For example if I set it to 10j and 500 degrees with a wet coil it would take a while to get there but on the other hand if I set it to 50j and 200 deg and had dry wick in there it would be there pretty fast then you also have air flow as you stated. So I really cant answer your main question there's just to many variables. sry...

Thanks for trying to provide me with an answer though, really appreciate it.

I have an 8 wrap 28awg, 2.5mm ID, spaced ofc, came out at 0.079. It vapes perfectly, not gonna lie, i drained my tank yesterday and kept on vaping and vaping with zero issues until it hit "dry coil".

I'm vaping at 18J and 215C, I was just curious if by pressing just the button without drawing if it should take 2 secs to reach the temp because it does, but if I'm drawing it might not even be reaching it, who knows.

This is the build btw:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3v1zgxryi...55~01.jpg?dl=0

 

[tchavei]

Thanks for trying to provide me with an answer though, really appreciate it.

I have an 8 wrap 28awg, 2.5mm ID, spaced ofc, came out at 0.079. It vapes perfectly, not gonna lie, i drained my tank yesterday and kept on vaping and vaping with zero issues until it hit "dry coil".

I'm vaping at 18J and 215C, I was just curious if by pressing just the button without drawing if it should take 2 secs to reach the temp because it does, but if I'm drawing it might not even be reaching it, who knows.

This is the build btw:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3v1zgxryisud78/DSC_0055~01.jpg?dl=0

Very nice build



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Vlad1]

Thanks for trying to provide me with an answer though, really appreciate it.

I have an 8 wrap 28awg, 2.5mm ID, spaced ofc, came out at 0.079. It vapes perfectly, not gonna lie, i drained my tank yesterday and kept on vaping and vaping with zero issues until it hit "dry coil".

I'm vaping at 18J and 215C, I was just curious if by pressing just the button without drawing if it should take 2 secs to reach the temp because it does, but if I'm drawing it might not even be reaching it, who knows.

This is the build btw:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3v1zgxryisud78/DSC_0055~01.jpg?dl=0

If I'm understanding all this correctly you can roughly adjust how fast or slow you get to temp by adjusting the joules. If you want to get there faster bump it up, slower bump it down. I just switched from a .16Ω to a .09Ω and had to go down a couple joules and about 15 degrees in temp as it was getting to temp a little faster than I like and a bit hot for this juice. But guessing your 2 sec is probably a little slower than I am right now. Alternatively you could change to one of the 4 modes that suit your taste as well.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

If I'm understanding all this correctly you can roughly adjust how fast or slow you get to temp by adjusting the joules. If you want to get there faster bump it up, slower bump it down. I just switched from a .16Ω to a .09Ω and had to go down a couple joules and about 15 degrees in temp as it was getting to temp a little faster than I like and a bit hot for this juice. But guessing your 2 sec is probably a little slower than I am right now. Alternatively you could change to one of the 4 modes that suit your taste as well.

I didn't read the attachment but the basic premise of TEMP CONTROL... well its not temp control its temp limiting.
huge difference in my opinion. temp control would be like a thermostat, set it to 400 degrees, put a digorno pizza in and wait twenty minutes. tem limiting is set it to 400 degrees and it will not let it go past.

but \, reference to the joules yes, its a adjusting the power to the coil just like any other VW mod does, only with the temp limiting, its setting the max power o the coil the mod will use and sending that to the cil as its reaching the temp you've set it throttles back to not let it go past.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

Tp devices don't deal well with dual coils. It's bad enough the devices calculating average temp based on average resistance (we know the coils get hotter in the middle) but by using two coils all you're doing is increasing the margin of error because the temperature will be based on the average resistance across both coils so one might be indeed much hotter than the other.

You said microcoils... Are you using full contact coils or have them spaced out?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

ummm... the dna40 didn't deal very well with them but it also had a few other wonky bits, not taking anything away from the evolve chip, I still love my dna40s.
BUT, I've been running a mako, an aquav2 and a freakshow all with dual coil builds with NI200 and have not had a single issue with them,

 

[a tez]

I just got the Lemo 2 and it works really well with ni200. Getting awesome flavor and the new design is great. I'm going to put my Lemo Drop back in its box.

 

[a tez]

ummm... the dna40 didn't deal very well with them but it also had a few other wonky bits, not taking anything away from the evolve chip, I still love my dna40s.
BUT, I've been running a mako, an aquav2 and a freakshow all with dual coil builds with NI200 and have not had a single issue with them,

You aren't running into any issues with contact coils?

 

[bssage]

Ok got my mini and been using it for a bit. Also got the kanger mini and ni200 coils

Where should my starting point on my settings? I'm a mouth to lung dude all day long.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

You aren't running into any issues with contact coils?

no, not in the aquav2 anyway. theres no room in that builddeck to do a spaced build. tomorrow will make 7 days with that build an not a single issue whatsoever.
the Dual coil builds in my drippers are very slightly spaced and no issue with those.
in complete honesty I have had no issues with anything ive tried on this mod...at least not yet . maybe the dna40 was training for the sx350j

 

[ThunderDan]

Ok got my mini and been using it for a bit. Also got the kanger mini and ni200 coils

Where should my starting point on my settings? I'm a mouth to lung dude all day long.

What airflow setting are you using on the mini for MTL? With less airflow I think you will want to start with a lower temp, say maybe 350F or so, and maybe 15J, then adjust up/down as needed.

With the airflow wide open on the STmini and ni200 I was using 390F, and 20-25J with good results.

 

[a tez]

no, not in the aquav2 anyway. theres no room in that builddeck to do a spaced build. tomorrow will make 7 days with that build an not a single issue whatsoever.
the Dual coil builds in my drippers are very slightly spaced and no issue with those.
in complete honesty I have had no issues with anything ive tried on this mod...at least not yet . maybe the dna40 was training for the sx350j

Interesting.

I wouldn't say the DNA 40 was training for the sx350j. The SX350j doesn't measure the resistance after you lock it. They both seem to be completely different in the way they do TC. I'm waiting for more info to come out and to see some graphs and charts from PBusardo.