SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[350ZMO]

I've checked yihi's site and can't find any manual, tutorial, or any how to videos on the sx350j. .. could someone point me to such Yihi info ... all the info here in the thread is good but I can't even determine if the board does any refinement, is capable of auxiliary switches, has a balancing usb charging circuit, warranty info, and etc. etc. I'd like to look at actual documentation if anybody can share it.... thx

Much of this will have to be found empirically. On a 40 this atty refines by .01ohm. On the SX it does not change.

Here is the manual and warranty card.



1 year except USB port which is 3 months.

 

[tchavei]

Lol. Ice-cream vape

4 am, I'm going to bed dream with an sx.

Nighty night

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[JimScotty0]

You're cutting to the point fairly well here. Generally people who advocate for manual setting or overrides don't really understand what refinement is doing. It is calibrating the temperature display. Manually setting that calibration means that you could have it set to anything, accurate or not. You have no real way of knowing whether the atty temperature is the same as ambient/board temperature; self-calibration monitors for temperature shifts and confirms it.

The closest you can come manually is letting the mod sit a long time before setting the calibration ... which is even more of a hassle than automatic calibration.

I think with the SX you just have to let the device sit for a while, maybe 15-20 mins where the atty and mod will both be at the same ambient temperature whatever that may be. It may be a problem for some, but I just grab a different mod if I can't wait for that to happen. But if you don't let the 2 match in temperature then your results will not be what was designed into the product. That is just the way it is. No automatic mode, just a manual mode and a waiting period between TC tanks or coils.

 

[DDramaSV]

What's your build look like? I'm using a derringer with 28g ni200 as well around the same ohm but I don't think its the best right now, seems to be gunking up in different spots, maybe hot spots.

I finally got a picture of this build but I had to rewick it because my juice was so dark lol! I'm sure you've probably found a working build by now but I figured better late than never

 

[dannyben]

Yeah, even Varitube is stating they are "indefinitely" on hold ... that's why I find it odd. I don't see how obtaining parts had anything to do with these colors being on hold unless issues were found with the quality of paint. Unless they based their decision on pre-order sales and saw that the overwhelming majority were ordering the standard colors and they simply don't think it's worth the time and money to produce the black ones.

They are not "oh hold indefinitely".... They were never available for sale. They arent listed/shown on yihi's website and no vendor should have ever offered them for sale or taken money for them. I hate to say "told you so", but I posted back in February for buyers to beware.

The silver and black unit is available and shown on yihi's website. That is shipping this coming week.

 

[JimScotty0]

A balanced charger is required for series batteries same as the SX350 100W there isn't any TP boards above 50J unless you count the SMOK M80plus

There is no available (downloadable) firmware for the 350J? Its curious everyone is saying V1.4 for the 350J when there was only ever 1.2 and 1.3.1 released for the SX350 mini coincidence?

Time to reflash the 350 mini with V1.4?

All the initial SX Mini M Class devices have been shipping with the v1.4 and there is nothing on the web site to flash it to for the M class. Everything on their site is for the S class. You will probably brick your device if it allowed you to do it.

To check your version simply pull your battery out and hold the power button down while screwing in the battery cap. When the screen lights up it will first state the current version of the chipset. I am sure you have a V1.4 this early in the game. A few months from now we may all have something different depending on purchase date and if you have the upgrade itch as I know I have. lol

 

[OutdoorXplorer]

Since I am using a kanthal build, I'm finding it really weird there's no relative temperature reading. The Cloupor gives me a temperature, I believe at the 510 port. So I know when I hit 38 degrees on it, I need to slow down/take a break. On the SX there's no relative reading, so I just keep going. The only way to tell really is if I touch the atomizer and try to see how hot it is. This is not the ideal way to do this. I guess with TC it wouldn't matter, but for a kathal build I'd use the T6 over the m class unless I'm missing something.

It does display the temperature if you have it in Joule mode.

 

[dr g]

For piss-n-giggles, I placed my M Class in the freezer for over an hour.. The resistance went from 0.22, down to 0.17 when set again...It's right frosty for sure..

What do you think this shows?

 

[Technonut]

What do you think this shows?

That it needs to be reset in extreme climates.. Still vaped just fine.. I just set it again after leaving it sit, and it's back to 0.22..

 

[Woofer]

Why would the base resistance change? If it is one foot of 28 Ga Ni200 it will be 0.3778 at room temp (whatever you consider that to be in this case 68F) it will always be 0.3778 at room temperature. Why would you continually have to diddle with the value you already know?

There is more involved than 1 foot of wire. At least everything from the 510 on is part of the base resistance.
Why do many see resistance jumping around, poor connections coils shorting etc.

I asked this before and none responded.

My atty is at 0.12 ohms and I lock the resistance.
Actual resistance changes to 0.17 ohms.
Device is locked at 0.12
What happens?

 

[retird]

Much of this will have to be found empirically. On a 40 this atty refines by .01ohm. On the SX it does not change.

Here is the manual and warranty card.

THX for the info.....

 

[dr g]

That it needs to be reset in extreme climates.. Still vaped just fine.. I just set it again after leaving it sit, and it's back to 0.22..

You should not get a different reference regardless of the temperature. That behavior is ... inexplicable.

 

[Technonut]

You should not get a different reference regardless of the temperature. That behavior is ... inexplicable.

I don't plan on going to Alaska anytime soon, and it very rarely gets anywhere near as cold as in my freezer here, so, I'm not sweating it.. I use the device to vape... I'll leave the basics of insulation resistance to you guys...

 

[HolmanGT]

Wow. I feel ......ed now, i was holding with the screen facing me.... Never thought of holdings it vertically looool... Jesus.

Sptz,

See I told you it was a bit unusual but that your unit was good as Gold.

I am just glad the Technonut came to the rescue again. I had to PM him because the thing I couldn't make it do was go into Mech mode and I was embarrassed to ask in public. Well Tech say you have to be in power mode for that option to show up for selection. - Duh!

If Tech had not come to my rescue I was starting to think something was wrong with my unit also.

This is a good place to hang out there are a lot of really knowledgeable folks here to save our respective bacon.

Regards,
George

 

[Vlad1]

I don't plan on going to Alaska anytime soon, and it very rarely gets anywhere near as cold as in my freezer here, so, I'm not sweating it.. I use the device to vape... I'll leave the basics of insulation resistance to you guys...

When can we expect the oven test? lol

 

[JimScotty0]

When can we expect the oven test? lol

I think we just have to find someone who is willing to risk their SX and that is not me. I will wait for a volunteer to rise amongst us all!

 

[HolmanGT]

When can we expect the oven test? lol

I think we just have to find someone who is willing to risk their SX and that is not me. I will wait for a volunteer to rise amongst us all!

I hope no one volunteers but if someone does I sure hope I get to warn him first. SXmini is not another name for Toaster Strudel.

PS - You guys are terrible.

 

[inspects]

I'm in southern Arizona, mine should be here Monday, it will be getting some oven tests in the car.......

 

[a tez]

Well my first nickel build is in, after a bit of annoyance. The stuff is so soft...waiting for some hard nickel from the UK but ordered some of the soft stuff from the states first.

So I did 12 spaced wraps, 28 gauge ni200 on a 3mm screw, reading 0.21ohms. Set the temp to 390F.

The vape is a LOT warmer then I'm used to, actually nice but gets a bit hot over time. If I press and hold the fire button, it doesn't seem to go over 200F, why is that? Running it at 13J.

Flavor is really, really nice, initially. Somehow I'm not positive the TC is really working, it gets really hot after holding it down. Any help appreciated!

My atomizer really hot to the touch, but screen still showing only 200f on fire..

Reset the resistance (hold up and down at same time).

 

[Yozhik]

I'm confused as to why you keep mentioning parallel resistors?

From what I understand gunk on a coil doesn't necessarily run in parallel due to coil oxidization? Which again, explains the increase in resistance.

This is off-topic, but hopefully my answer can resolve the matter. The wire is a conductor. The act of vaping doesn't change the nature of the wire, it just adds gunk to the wire. Electric current wants to take the least resistive path, be it the wire or the gunk. If the gunk has a higher resistance, the current stays on the wire. If the gunk has a lower resistance, which is doubtful, the current would bypass the wire. Thus, in either circumstance, the resistance can only stay the same or decrease, not increase. Any increase in observed resistance is likely due to other factors, such as the tolerance of your measurement equipment, ambient room temperature, faulty connections, etc.