SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[tchavei]

So, for all you early adopters... how is it?? I'd be especially interested in a comparison to the dna 40, since I've been using one since it was released late last year. Is it as good or better? Or is it worse? Any problems with building? Is it more or less "finicky" than the dna 40? I really want to purchase one, but I'm wondering if it's worth it considering I already have a couple dna 40 devices that I'm more or less satisfied with.

Don't ask for comparisons here, it will only open a can of worms and cause unnecessary grief.

As with all things, everybody will have an opinion and since this is a YIHI thread and the mod is out for only a few days, everyone will be super happy with it. Add that to the fact that many unhappy dna owners probably also jumped ships, they will give you an even more negative picture of the dna 40. You have a few Evolv representatives here too so things will heat up and it won't benefit anybody.

Try again in a couple of months on a dedicated and fresh thread. Let's keep things clean here

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Vlad1]

ZeroOhm..... you are totally incorrect in your statement highlighted above.... you are only making personal attacks. I have listed every post I have made in this thread...all of which are legitimate posts and none mention any other technology (your post does mention other technology and you state you would not recommend)... ... I post in threads that interest me as does everybody on ECF... I list every post I made in this thread so everybody can plainly see...I welcome a moderator's review of my posts.. and your personal attack... (I don't speak for dr g as it is not my place to do so)../B]

I'm not sure it's exactly what your saying Retird but how / when you say it and the implications you make. For example I know from the past you are more than capable of researching information i.e. back when Hana was starting lawsuits you were more than competent in searching the internet and digging up info. But now all of a sudden you cant find a vendor that list the warranty information or SXmini maker,SXmini,yihisxmini,yihiecigar,sx350,yihi sx350, yihi sx350 mini, yihiecigar sx350 mini, gravity sensor,www.yihisxmini.com,120w device or yihiecigar.com for documentation. Affirming that "refinement" works fine for a lot of folks but obviously it was a big enough problem that Evolv changed it so the end user could lock it and not deal with it but you don't state that. Suggesting the SX350 J board is not modder friendly?? I don't get what makes a board modder friendly or not but it's just as modder friendly as any other electronic circuit board I've ever worked with, even includes post holes to mount. To me the comments may not be against the Forum rules but it's apparent there's a hidden agenda and implications that somehow Yihi is sub par whether you see it or not. I know some of the Evolv fan boys posting in here were part of the Beta test for the DNA 40 and are more invested in Evolv than Yihi and that's fine and dandy.

Now back to the topic.
Second tank finished on ni200, @ .16Ω, 23.5 joule, 415 deg. Not a single dry hit. no singeing on coil and tank completely bone dry. Last few minutes vapor production & flavor fading away. Re-wick, re-juice and right back to where it should be. Man this SXmini M class is fantastic.

 

[dam718]

dam718,

How do you know YiHi doesn't use "it"? Companies don't always broadcast all the gimmicks they employ in their products for a multitude of reasons.

The "it" I was referring to was the auto calibration. Sorry for not clarifying that, poor communication on my part.

You're right though, who knows what secrets lie within these boards...

 

[dam718]

Don't ask for comparisons here, it will only open a can of worms and cause unnecessary grief.

As with all things, everybody will have an opinion and since this is a YIHI thread and the mod is out for only a few days, everyone will be super happy with it. Add that to the fact that many unhappy dna owners probably also jumped ships, they will give you an even more negative picture of the dna 40. You have a few Evolv representatives here too so things will heat up and it won't benefit anybody.

Try again in a couple of months on a dedicated and fresh thread. Let's keep things clean here

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I think it's logical that people are going to want to compare the YiHi execution of TC with the Evolv execution of TC. These seem to be the two front runners in the temperature control game right now (I don't count clones, who knows what those guys are using)

I think as long as we're not getting into a pissing match over who made what first, there's really no better place to discuss the comparison between the two technologies.

Maybe it's time to start that dedicated thread? Something along the lines of "Evolv TC vs. YiHi TC"? Just to keep all discussion in this thread relative to the SXmini M Class, and kick all the questions about comparisons of the technologies to the other thread.

I mean, it's not like the questions are ever going to end. As it stands, this is quite similar to the Android vs iOS, Xbox ONE vs PS4 style debates. People want to know, and ECF is where they're going to come to get educated.

 

[whiteweazel21]

Well my first nickel build is in, after a bit of annoyance. The stuff is so soft...waiting for some hard nickel from the UK but ordered some of the soft stuff from the states first.

So I did 12 spaced wraps, 28 gauge ni200 on a 3mm screw, reading 0.21ohms. Set the temp to 390F.

The vape is a LOT warmer then I'm used to, actually nice but gets a bit hot over time. If I press and hold the fire button, it doesn't seem to go over 200F, why is that? Running it at 13J.

Flavor is really, really nice, initially. Somehow I'm not positive the TC is really working, it gets really hot after holding it down. Any help appreciated!

My atomizer really hot to the touch, but screen still showing only 200f on fire..

Not sure what happened with this, but I waited a while and reset the resistance. It went from 0.21ohms to 0.15. I don't understand though, since the build was after cleaning the atomizer in cold water. I imagine by the time I did the wire and wicking it should have been standard temperature. Is it because I set the resistance without the atomizer fully built (chimney only)? Or maybe I forgot and did fire before...Working fine now, hitting temperature, etc.

Is higher resistance than it should be a result of the atomizer being hotter or colder than resting temperature?

That said, the flavor is really incredible. It tastes just like the juice smells, very clean. Lately, I believe due to throat irritation, I was tasting a lot of cotton "flavor" from my wick when using kanthal. That taste is completely gone, pretty much tastes like fresh, clean juice. Getting such clean flavor is really incredible, unexpected. That said, nickel is a PIA to work with, and I'm still a bit confused and not 100% comfortable with TC/nickel.

 

[dam718]

Not sure what happened with this, but I waited a while and reset the resistance. It went from 0.21ohms to 0.15. I don't understand though, since the build was after cleaning the atomizer in cold water. I imagine by the time I did the wire and wicking it should have been standard temperature. Is it because I set the resistance without the atomizer fully built (chimney only)? Or maybe I forgot and did fire before...

Is higher resistance than it should be a result of the atomizer being hotter or colder than resting temperature?

That said, the flavor is really incredible. It tastes just like the juice smells, very clean. Lately, I believe due to throat irritation, I was tasting a lot of cotton "flavor" from my wick when using kanthal. That taste is completely gone, pretty much tastes like fresh, clean juice. Getting such clean flavor is really incredible, unexpected. That said, nickel is a PIA to work with, and I'm still a bit confused and not 100% comfortable with TC/nickel.

When you initially set the resistance, was it right after wrapping the coil? Bending the wire will create some residual heat from friction, perhaps some of that heat had not fully dissipated? Also, the resting temperature of a naked coil compared to the resting temp of a coil with a juiced wick may be slightly different, since the juice will act as a coolant.

With the Ni200, the resistance rises as the temperature increases, so the higher resistance would have been the result of it being a bit hotter than ambient temperature.

 

[whiteweazel21]

When you initially set the resistance, was it right after wrapping the coil? Bending the wire will create some residual heat from friction, perhaps some of that heat had not fully dissipated? Also, the resting temperature of a naked coil compared to the resting temp of a coil with a juiced wick may be slightly different, since the juice will act as a coolant.

With the Ni200, the resistance rises as the temperature increases, so the higher resistance would have been the result of it being a bit hotter than ambient temperature.

I did set resistance without liquid, since I wanted to try/test the dry burning feature...

So what's the proper way to set the resistance? Build the coil, assemble atomizer and fill it with juice, wait a couple minutes, and then set resistance?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

When you initially set the resistance, was it right after wrapping the coil? Bending the wire will create some residual heat from friction, perhaps some of that heat had not fully dissipated? Also, the resting temperature of a naked coil compared to the resting temp of a coil with a juiced wick may be slightly different, since the juice will act as a coolant.

With the Ni200, the resistance rises as the temperature increases, so the higher resistance would have been the result of it being a bit hotter than ambient temperature.

errrr...any heat generated by a minor bend in a wire (probably femtojoules) woukld dissipate in nanoseconds all being equal...also the juice would act as a coolant if it was evaporating from the surface which, ine the case of VG ro PG, is unlikely or insignificant. Otherwise it is just a heat sink and if they are both close to the same temp the effect will be negligable..just saying!

 

[dam718]

So what's the proper way to set the resistance?

Build the coil, assemble atomizer and fill it with juice, wait, and set resistance?

It would make more sense to me to set the baseline with the atomizer assembled the same way you intend to use it, wicked and juiced. Of course, it doesn't say one way or the other in the instruction manual, so that's all speculation on my part.

 

[whiteweazel21]

It would make more sense to me to set the baseline with the atomizer assembled the same way you intend to use it, wicked and juiced. Of course, it doesn't say one way or the other in the instruction manual, so that's all speculation on my part.

Makes sense, I will do this method on my next coil build!

Edit: Is there any method to test the baseline resistance? I don't have an ohm tester, would that be of any benefit, or could I stick it on my cloupor to get a baseline reading? If I understand correctly, the m class is reading the ohms based on temperature. Would a non-temp sensitive reading from a mod or ohm tester give me the accurate ohm reading that I should be seeing on the m class when I set resistance?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Damn, just rewicked my subtank rba Ti build. Ckleaned coil with a some H20, gave it a brush to get of gunk, retightened post screws and base etc, rewicked and refilled. Slapped it back in the tank and backk on the SX. The resistnace has increased by a whole 4 milliohms...lol!

 

[dam718]

errrr...any heat generated by a minor bend in a wire (probably femtojoules) woukld dissipate in nanoseconds all being equal...also the juice would act as a coolant if it was evaporating from the surface which, ine the case of VG ro PG, is unlikely or insignificant. Otherwise it is just a heat sink and if they are both close to the same temp the effect will be negligable..just saying!

True enough... Just trying to offer some educated guesses as to why the difference in resistance. I honestly am not sure exactly how far the resistance fluctuates when heat is applied to the coil.

How much heat would be needed to generate a .06 Ohm change to resistance?

Does anyone have a chart or formula that shows the correlation between the temperature and resistance of nickel?

 

[sedge]

M Class just landed. Now to play. I threw on a Taifun GT 2 w a titanium build at 0.14 ohms. Works great OOB.

 

[jazzvaper]

It arrived 'bout an hour ago:

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[dam718]

Makes sense, I will do this method on my next coil build!

Edit: Is there any method to test the baseline resistance? I don't have an ohm tester, would that be of any benefit, or could I stick it on my cloupor to get a baseline reading? If I understand correctly, the m class is reading the ohms based on temperature. Would a non-temp sensitive reading from a mod or ohm tester give me the accurate ohm reading that I should be seeing on the m class when I set resistance?

An Ohm tester would definitely be beneficial. For these types of builds, I would recommend something better than the usual Chinese ohm testers out there, especially those that only read sub ohm coils to the tens place.

I'm using a ohm tester that reads out to the thousandths place for sub ohm builds. Not that there is much we can do to manipulate a change to the thousandth of an ohm, but it's nice to have that level of accuracy at your disposal, especially when we're dealing with builds that could potentially be measured to the hundredth of an ohm.

USA Ohm Meters

The M Class is only measuring the resistance of the coil. It calculates the temperature based on the change in resistance, it doesn't actually know what the temperature is. So any good ohm tester will work just fine.

 

[jazzvaper]

M Class just landed. Now to play. I threw on a Taifun GT 2 w a titanium build at 0.14 ohms. Works great OOB.

Same here, Sedge!

I am going out and about for 3-4 hours so I can keep my mouth shut here.

For now all I can say is WoW!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[TheotherSteveS]

True enough... Just trying to offer some educated guesses as to why the difference in resistance. I honestly am not sure exactly how far the resistance fluctuates when heat is applied to the coil.

How much heat would be needed to generate a .06 Ohm change to resistance?

Does anyone have a chart or formula that shows the correlation between the temperature and resistance of nickel?

I wasnt trying to be cute, I just worry that we are all tending to get a little bit crazy about small effects here. Me too!
Sd for you question it can be calculated from the dR/dT curve for Ni200...i can have a go but Im sure someone will chime in before I get there...i would guess somewhere around 50F or so for what its worth!

 

[whiteweazel21]

An Ohm tester would definitely be beneficial. For these types of builds, I would recommend something better than the usual Chinese ohm testers out there, especially those that only read sub ohm coils to the tens place.

I'm using a ohm tester that reads out to the thousandths place for sub ohm builds. Not that there is much we can do to manipulate a change to the thousandth of an ohm, but it's nice to have that level of accuracy at your disposal, especially when we're dealing with builds that could potentially be measured to the hundredth of an ohm.

USA Ohm Meters

So if I used an ohm tester, since they don't factor in temperature, the reading on the tester should be what I see on the m class when I set resistance? If it's higher/lower it would mean I should wait and let everything even out?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

why doesnt it tell you how much the batt is charged when on USB?? Did I miss something or is this annoying?

 

[tchavei]

True enough... Just trying to offer some educated guesses as to why the difference in resistance. I honestly am not sure exactly how far the resistance fluctuates when heat is applied to the coil.

How much heat would be needed to generate a .06 Ohm change to resistance?

Does anyone have a chart or formula that shows the correlation between the temperature and resistance of nickel?

No chart but it's appears to be a lot. If you turn off temperature protection on a dna you can see the Ohms rise as you fire in normal mode. Barely red coil and the resistance of a 0.15 coil was showing 0.98!

Sure that was probably at 800F or so but you get the idea.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.