SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Ian444]

An Ohm tester would definitely be beneficial. For these types of builds, I would recommend something better than the usual Chinese ohm testers out there, especially those that only read sub ohm coils to the tens place.

I'm using a ohm tester that reads out to the thousandths place for sub ohm builds. Not that there is much we can do to manipulate a change to the thousandth of an ohm, but it's nice to have that level of accuracy at your disposal, especially when we're dealing with builds that could potentially be measured to the hundredth of an ohm.

USA Ohm Meters

I would be very surprised if the sxmini is not more accurate than any atty ohm reader out there.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

So if I used an ohm tester, since they don't factor in temperature, the reading on the tester should be what I see on the m class when I set resistance? If it's higher/lower it would mean I should wait and let everything even out?

not necessarily. The ohm meter could tell you what it thinks the resistance is to 5 decimal places but it doesnt mean that it is accurate! Apparently precise but not necessarily accurate. If your mod is reading wildly different then something is probably up but if you are worrying about difference of 0.01 or 0.02 ohms, that kind of thing, that is just the error in the measurements between the meter and the mod!

The meter does factor in temp since it tells you what the resistance is at the temp the resistor (coil + atty etc) is at.

 

[cinetrope]

So, for all you early adopters... how is it?? I'd be especially interested in a comparison to the DNA 40, since I've been using one since it was released late last year. Is it as good or better? Or is it worse? Any problems with building? Is it more or less "finicky" than the DNA 40? I really want to purchase one, but I'm wondering if it's worth it considering I already have a couple DNA 40 devices that I'm more or less satisfied with.

I have run 16 ml of juice through mine in the past four days. I have had no dry hits, no scorched cotton and when I vape it dry I get the appropriate dry coil warning. I have used it with three different toppers, two RDAs and a Kayfun. I've been using an SX Mini "S" for a couple of months and find the manufacturing and assembly standards of the "M" to be equal and they are roughly equivalent to 95% that of my Provari IMO. When I factor in the additional feature set of the "M" I would rate it as my favorite of the seven devices I own. I can draw no direct personal comparison with a DNA 40 device as I do not own one. I'm building for it on a coil master and finding it to be no more difficult than a kanthal build. Reading and understanding the user manual is all it took for me to make it work.

 

[dam718]

So if I used an ohm tester, since they don't factor in temperature, the reading on the tester should be what I see on the m class when I set resistance? If it's higher/lower it would mean I should wait and let everything even out?

I usually build my decks on an ohm tester. I perform the build, and then test them right away. When you do an initial build, and everything is working right, when you transfer the atomizer from the ohm tester to the mod the resistance values should be the same, or at least very close. The biggest kicker here is to make sure the SXmini and the atomizer are as close to the same temp as possible (room temperature). If you've done anything to add or subtract heat from either, then I'd let them sit a few minutes before trying to set the resistance.

 

[dam718]

I have run 16 ml of juice through mine in the past four days. I have had no dry hits, no scorched cotton and when I vape it dry I get the appropriate dry coil warning. I have used it with three different toppers, two RDAs and a Kayfun. I've been using an SX Mini "S" for a couple of months and find the manufacturing and assembly standards of the "M" to be equal and they are roughly equivalent to 95% that of my Provari IMO. When I factor in the additional feature set of the "M" I would rate it as my favorite of the seven devices I own. I can draw no direct personal comparison with a DNA 40 device as I do not own one. I'm building for it on a coil master and finding it to be no more difficult than a kanthal build. Reading and understanding the user manual is all it took for me to make it work.

After you make the coil with the coil master, are you pulling the coils apart, or leaving them touching each other? There seems to be some debate on which method is best.

 

[retird]

SXmini maker,SXmini,yihisxmini,yihiecigar,sx350,yihi sx350, yihi sx350 mini, yihiecigar sx350 mini, gravity sensor,[url]www.yihisxmini.com,120w device[/url] or yihiecigar.com for documentation. Suggesting the SX350 J board is not modder friendly?? I don't get what makes a board modder friendly or not but it's just as modder friendly as any other electronic circuit board I've ever worked with, even includes post holes to mount. To me the comments may not be against the Forum rules but it's apparent there's a hidden agenda and implications that somehow Yihi is sub par whether you see it or not. I know some of the Evolv fan boys posting in here were part of the Beta test for the DNA 40 and are more invested in Evolv than Yihi and that's fine and dandy. .

Thanks for the link... Yihi's main web site did not have that info, or I didn't find it and I hadn't found the link you provided....From the info I have gained thus far I found no reference as to whether auxiliary switches can be used with the J board thus my asking for any info you guys may have. it seems to me from what little info I've found that auxiliary switches are not a choice thus my comment... hopefully more info will follow......my thoughts on modding a board is how versatile it is (with the limited info in this thread) and absent any wiring diagrams I only asked for information....I have no hidden agenda as I enjoy new technology and try to keep up... yes I prefer EVolv products and others prefer other technology and thats fine....as you say "fine and dandy"....but we all can also be interested in learning about various technologies also....just look at the many threads in this sub-forum and you will see that many posters in this thread also post in about every other thread also and that is how it should be...

I have asked several vendors and Yihi for information on a lot of areas several days ago and haven't received a reply yet.

Hope this answers your post adequately....and as with vaping all the current technology will be outdated quickly and something new will be the "talk of the town" within weeks or months anyway....

 

[dam718]

why doesnt it tell you how much the batt is charged when on USB?? Did I miss something or is this annoying?

Yeah, In "Joules" mode there isn't anything to indicate the charge level of the battery. If you shifted back over to Power mode, it would tell you.

That is a bit of an annoyance. It would be nice if it showed the battery level at all times. Personally, I could do without the "Joules" meter in the bottom left of the display. That seems about as gimmicky as a puff counter. Not really sure of it's usefulness other than to loosely determine how much you're getting out of a battery charge...

 

[cinetrope]

True enough... Just trying to offer some educated guesses as to why the difference in resistance. I honestly am not sure exactly how far the resistance fluctuates when heat is applied to the coil.

How much heat would be needed to generate a .06 Ohm change to resistance?

Does anyone have a chart or formula that shows the correlation between the temperature and resistance of nickel?

This chart and data sheet explains the basic science of TCR as it relates to Ni200 http://specialmetals.com/documents/Nickel 200 & 201.pdf but it has nothing specific to wire gauge or temperature protection in a vaporizer.

 

[MsLoud]

I have run 16 ml of juice through mine in the past four days. I have had no dry hits, no scorched cotton and when I vape it dry I get the appropriate dry coil warning. I have used it with three different toppers, two RDAs and a Kayfun. I've been using an SX Mini "S" for a couple of months and find the manufacturing and assembly standards of the "M" to be equal and they are roughly equivalent to 95% that of my Provari IMO. When I factor in the additional feature set of the "M" I would rate it as my favorite of the seven devices I own. I can draw no direct personal comparison with a DNA 40 device as I do not own one. I'm building for it on a coil master and finding it to be no more difficult than a kanthal build. Reading and understanding the user manual is all it took for me to make it work.

Thank god - this is a post I can understand! I can not be arsed to calculate 9000 jiggawatts to get a satisfying vape. I want to turn the mod on - screw the tank - push a few buttons to set my J-thang - and go...simplistic? Why yes, yes it is...shouldn't it be? 2015 anyone?

Been reading up on Ni200 - seems easy enough to wrap up a few winds around my coil master then throw it into my Kanger/Lemo and wick with KGD/rayon. At least I hope so.

I figure this is why this device intrigues me so much. I am sick to hell of a COIL of all things deciding my vapor - a thin flimsy piece of wire I have to fidget with to get a good vape...why? Why am I buying a $200+ Battery_holder if I_HAVE to do all the work!? Technology?

So if this is a set, load and forget - I'm sold...seems to be from my reading and picking out of all the excellent information (even if most of the technical jaz goes right over my head).

Thanks to all you guys that have the ability to push and test the limits of new devices - I trust more what I read on these forums than anywhere else

 

[cinetrope]

I'm keeping tension on the coil-master as I wind the coil to create a space roughly equivalent to one wire's diameter between each wrap. If I get it just right no further adjustment is necessary. The end result is a spaced, non-contact coil.

 

[tchavei]

I trust more what I read on these forums than anywhere else

Err... I wouldn't be so trustful... You need to know how to pick out the needle in the haystack.

Forums are like bars. Never forget that

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Sptz]

Just got some tempered NI200 in. 28 and 30AWG.

Did a 2.5mm ID 8wrap 28AWG, came at around 0.09ohms.

I used one of those coil master things, did a perfect contact microcoil and when setting up in the atty with a 2.5mm screwdriver while screwing them down the wraps naturally gave in and came out perfectly spaced, literally perfect. Gave it a few brushes on each side and top with tweezers to make sure the flow is fine, did the dry cotton test, works perfectly and am now vaping it. Perfect, literally perfect, first time working with Nickel. I gotta say, buying tempered is perfect because everyone says its a PITA to work with but I found it almost the same as kanthal.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Just got some tempered NI200 in. 28 and 30AWG.

Did a 2.5mm ID 8wrap 28AWG, came at around 0.09ohms.

I used one of those coil master things, did a perfect contact microcoil and when setting up in the atty with a 2.5mm screwdriver while screwing them down the wraps naturally gave in and came out perfectly spaced, literally perfect. Gave it a few brushes on each side and top with tweezers to make sure the flow is fine, did the dry cotton test, works perfectly and am now vaping it. Perfect, literally perfect, first time working with Nickel. I gotta say, buying tempered is perfect because everyone says its a PITA to work with but I found it almost the same as kanthal.

what atty you using mate?? And which wire for that matter?

best

steve

 

[MsLoud]

Err... I wouldn't be so trustful... You need to know how to pick out the needle in the haystack.

Forums are like bars. Never forget that

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Yes. You are correct. But I dare say most here - giving their opinion or experiences - are not paid to do so (either with freebies from vendors or otherwise). I value a good debate - even a heated one. I can respect someone taking a side.

I guess I should have made that remark clear. I would rather read through this forum and take in all the experience and opinions from posters here than watch Rip Trippers...

 

[dam718]

Yes. You are correct. But I dare say most here - giving their opinion or experiences - are not paid to do so (either with freebies from vendors or otherwise). I value a good debate - even a heated one. I can respect someone taking a side.

I guess I should have made that remark clear. I would rather read through this forum and take in all the experience and opinions from posters here than watch Rip Trippers...

I agree, I certainly feel like I learn a lot more reading this forum than I get anywhere else. It's always been a great source of information. Reddit is pretty decent too, but I like the forum layout here a lot better. Reddit can get annoying

Although, I do still like to watch the videos. Especially if there are several videos for a specific device. I'll watch each reviewers take and try to come to my own conclusion. Even RiP Trippers... LoL

 

[ukeman]

Just got some tempered NI200 in. 28 and 30AWG.

Did a 2.5mm ID 8wrap 28AWG, came at around 0.09ohms.

I used one of those coil master things, did a perfect contact microcoil and when setting up in the atty with a 2.5mm screwdriver while screwing them down the wraps naturally gave in and came out perfectly spaced, literally perfect. Gave it a few brushes on each side and top with tweezers to make sure the flow is fine, did the dry cotton test, works perfectly and am now vaping it. Perfect, literally perfect, first time working with Nickel. I gotta say, buying tempered is perfect because everyone says its a PITA to work with but I found it almost the same as kanthal.

I'm liking Titanium so far on my DNA40's... only found .5mm so far (24g), but works pretty much like thicker Kanthal.
Sems to hold up better and its pretty consistent.
Any comments on using it on the SX it TC mode?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Yeah, In "Joules" mode there isn't anything to indicate the charge level of the battery. If you shifted back over to Power mode, it would tell you.

That is a bit of an annoyance. It would be nice if it showed the battery level at all times. Personally, I could do without the "Joules" meter in the bottom left of the display. That seems about as gimmicky as a puff counter. Not really sure of it's usefulness other than to loosely determine how much you're getting out of a battery charge...

Thanks! I had noticed that but was really wondering how one knows it is charge fully when it is attached to a charger?!?! It just shows the batt icon with a lightning bolt. Does anythin happen when it is full like a firework display or it sends a txt msg or something?!?! I saw something about a button turning green but no idea what button that would be...

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I'm liking Titanium so far on my DNA40's... only found .5mm so far (24g), but works pretty much like thicker Kanthal.
Sems to hold up better and its pretty consistent.
Any comments on using it on the SX it TC mode?

works great! Using 24g in a subtank mini - 0.18ohms or so, i think 6 wraps around 3mm. Nice!

 

[jhawk]

Yes. You are correct. But I dare say most here - giving their opinion or experiences - are not paid to do so (either with freebies from vendors or otherwise). I value a good debate - even a heated one. I can respect someone taking a side.

I guess I should have made that remark clear. I would rather read through this forum and take in all the experience and opinions from posters here than watch Rip Trippers...

Never a truer statement

 

[ThunderDan]

works great! Using 24g in a subtank mini - 0.18ohms or so, i think 6 wraps around 3mm. Nice!

What temp are you using with Ti on this?