I should be frugal but I have a tough time with that. Anyway I agree with you about store bought "repeatability". Even the relatively expensive brands while still good (usually) vary from order to order and sometimes by quite a bit.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I should be frugal but I have a tough time with that. Anyway I agree with you about store bought "repeatability". Even the relatively expensive brands while still good (usually) vary from order to order and sometimes by quite a bit.
Yes, I am finding out that TC vaping does allow me to bring out the best in a good ejuice, but it also enhances the crap out of bad ejuice to make it even more crappy than it was when I was just flooding it with Watts in Kanthal mode where some of the crappiness just got vaporized or turned into a gas. Ha ha, who knows. But I will say that the good eJuice tastes even better.
A dielectric material is a substance that is a poor conductor of electricity, not something I want. YMMV 
A dielectric material is a substance that is a poor conductor of electricity, not something I want. YMMV
Which is why I will stay with Noalox. Like I said I really think by the time any mild abrasion it MIGHT cause will happen far after I have lost interest in that Mod, Atty or Battery cap.
In all honesty I think wearing out SS threads with Noalox would be like trying to polish cement with Jewelers Rouge. Can be done I just don't know about how man generation of offspring it would take to finish the job.
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I charged my battery through the USB port last night and all seems fine. Did yihi give any reason as to why they don't suggest charging through the port? I did it the whole time I had my ipv mini 2, I'd expect a device that costs almost 3x as much to be able to do the same. The battery cover is kind of a pain to get on and off, but I guess that's mostly due to the threads being a little "dry". I'll look into some of the suggested lubes here.
I think they just don't want to have to deal with what may be the biggest reason to return a mod with the USB being the weakest link. That would go for any mod, phone, etc. that uses a USB. They are a bit fragile and we vapors tend to bounce things around more than most. A little bouncing around with the USB cable plugged in or vaping while charging and pulling and tugging and that USB can become damaged. Maybe little by little, or with a sudden jolt it is easy to damage them. My guess is that is why they are making that statement. In looking at the SX USB it looks about as good as a USB will get but it is still a USB and as rock solid as the SX is the USB is probably their weakest link and probably the first thing that would go. Due to those reasons they are telling us to use it sparingly and only when needed. The most important reason to use it is when we want to get the latest firmware since then it will absolutely be needed. I don't think we need to read anything more into their statement than what I just stated as what I believe is their reasoning.
Jim,
I think I read your rational in their manual. Translated Chinese does lose a little but they eventually suggest the port was really meant for Firmware updates and the best way to charge the battery is by removing it and putting it in a real charger.
Sounds reasonable, I was just worried if it was a potential safety issue or something like that. Funny thing is the USB port on my mini feels like it's probably the most solid USB port I've had in ALL of my electronic devices, not just ecig devices.
Yep, I do think it is about as good as it gets but maybe it is just a Chinese way of protecting us and them. Not a safety issue but a possible monetary one for us or for them.
Just a bit of anecdotal "evidence":
Back in the unregulated tube mod days (
) I used Noalox on SS threads with some success, particularly on the Nemesis. If overused it did build up, so after any application I wiped the thread "clean" with paper towel and slight pressure, leaving the skimpiest amount of Noalox on/in the threads. Never a problem unless I stuck the tube in the freezer. (We would try anything to undo the seized threads, right?)With the BRASS threads of the Stingray the material (zinc) would tend to build up more than with SS. I had to wipe down the brass substantially more than SS. So, a little goes a very long way.
When I read about the "dirty threads" [in this thread] and saw for myself, I, intentionally, did not suggest Naolox. Rather, a cleaning with isopropyl alcohol should be sufficient. Thus, an initial cleaning (especially the brass tube), occasional monitoring, and careful insertion of the batt & batt cap, should take care of potential problems.
Again, if you strip the threads...you will likely void the Warranty: User Error.
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They honestly should have just left it like the IPV3 then if they recommend not using it. I have a Hana Modz V4m and have no choice but to charge it through the usb and it is very sturdy. These devices should have the same quality as a mid/high end cellphone. Especially at the $200 price range. I have never had to get a warranty replacement due to a faulty usb port on a smartphone.
I also have a Vapor Flask 2.1 and the usb port is flimsy as hell but I still use it. I'm just very delicate with it. And that's a devices that $300.
I also have a Vapor Flask 2.1 and the usb port is flimsy as hell but I still use it. I'm just very delicate with it. And that's a devices that $300.
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Just a bit of anecdotal "evidence":
Back in the unregulated tube mod days (
With the BRASS threads of the Stingray the material (zinc) would tend to build up more than with SS. I had to wipe down the brass substantially more than SS. So, a little goes a very long way.
When I read about the "dirty threads" [in this thread] and saw for myself, I, intentionally, did not suggest Naolox. Rather, a cleaning with isopropyl alcohol should be sufficient. Thus, an initial cleaning (especially the brass tube), occasional monitoring, and careful insertion of the batt & batt cap, should take care of potential problems.
Again, if you strip the threads...you will likely void the Warranty: User Error.
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A bit more anecdotal info as I've used Noalox for over 30 years in electrical applications where aluminum is used.... short info copy:
Anti-oxidant and anti-seizing compound
Reduces galling and seizing on aluminum conduit joints
Suspended zinc particles penetrate and cut aluminum oxide
Carrier material excludes air to prevent further oxidation
Improves service life of aluminum electrical applications
Actually, the Vaporflask USB is pretty durable, it just feels flimsy. They say it's a design feature, since the USB hole is part of the venting and they wanted some gaps, not a solid plug. The USB board is in a sturdy cradle, which may flex a bit inwards or left/right, but it's not likely to break due to that very flexibility.
Well that's good to know. It feels like it's going to break every time I use it lol. I will still treat it with care but I guess I don't have much to worry about anymore.
Slight offtopic here, is this how the battery meter is supposed to operate or is my battery sagging?
Quick video link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpc7f65q3436ymi/MOV_0056.mp4?dl=0
Quick video link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpc7f65q3436ymi/MOV_0056.mp4?dl=0
Just for some clarification. The fine folks at ProVape have since rescinded their Noalox recommendation, and now recommend NO-OX-ID A Special
Noalox is intended for use on aluminum parts to prevent aluminum oxide. But you're right, I fondly remember the days when ProVape used to preach Noalox non-stop. Guess they finally read the label for Noalox after all these years
Do you still vape in watts mode? The flavor is so much better I can't decide if I ever want to go back to watts.
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That behavior is completely normal. It's the natural sag of the battery when you apply a load. It's a lot more noticeable as the battery gets down below 3.6V.
Just for some clarification. The fine folks at ProVape have since rescinded their Noalox recommendation, and now recommend NO-OX-ID A Special
Noalox is intended for use on aluminum parts to prevent aluminum oxide. But you're right, I fondly remember the days when ProVape used to preach Noalox non-stop. Guess they finally read the label for Noalox after all these years
Much better choice as "A Special" is a conductive grease and will be better where conductivity is important such as the battery threaded cover used on the mini and many other devices...
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