Maybe they fixed the problems because the Lemo 2 is working extremely well on my Hana, Flask and SX Mini.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
- Thread starter whitewidows
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Maybe they fixed the problems because the Lemo 2 is working extremely well on my Hana, Flask and SX Mini.
Units meaning across lemo units. If you have a working one you're good. If not, you might have to do some work on it.
Kinda the way I relate joules to watts is:
One joule in everyday life represents approximately the amount of electricity required to light a 1 watt LED for 1 second.
Does that kinda hold true in your experience that 10 watts on one device is similar to 10 joules on the other in temp mode... just curious as to your take on it since you have both... thx
VTC 4 or 5, HE 4, Samsung 25 R
Some will include others like the Orbtronic &etc.
(Posted simultaneous with ThunderDan)
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Likely most who use BOTH would disagree strongly.
For any other poster I would be specific. Other experiences welcome...
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I just got an email back from Smok that they have made a Ni200 atomizer for the VCT Pro.
<snip>
quality@smoktech.com <quality@smoktech.com>
5:10 PM (3 minutes ago)
to me
Dear Sir,
Yes, we will announce it very soon. Thanks!
SMOK Customer Service Team
Website: SMOK Technology Co.LTD
Follow us At SMOK facebook fanpage https://www.facebook.com/SMOK.TECHNOLOGY
Youtube Channel: http://youtu.be/dGrRpddHiR4 </snip>
This may be my next buy for my SX Mini.
I just got an email back from Smok that they have made a Ni200 atomizer for the VCT Pro.
<snip>
quality@smoktech.com <quality@smoktech.com>
5:10 PM (3 minutes ago)
to me
Dear Sir,
Yes, we will announce it very soon. Thanks!
SMOK Customer Service Team
Website: SMOK Technology Co.LTD
Follow us At SMOK facebook fanpage https://www.facebook.com/SMOK.TECHNOLOGY
Youtube Channel: http://youtu.be/dGrRpddHiR4 </snip>
This may be my next buy for my SX Mini.
Got to love all these companies coming out with nickel coils....wonder what is taking so long on the Atlantis ones....or did I miss something....?
TP mode and non TP mode do work significantly differently, but that would be whether they were both called watts or not.
Joules are watts over time. TP overrides time, and as far as I know the fire button also overrides time, so it's watts.
This is what I shared with another group and while I may be out in left field, I think it worked for me.
<snip>
I wanted to share my thoughts on the Lemo. For me, the contact pin and the adjustable 510 pin seem to be the problem for me as the 510 pin is so easy to turn and somewhat loose. I was always having to readjust the 510 after unscrewing the atty, it would always be too far out or screwed to far in.
Thinking this would never work on a TP device - I clipped a small portion off an old claption coil leg (30 g around 28 g a-1 kanthal) and twisted it around a small sewing needle a few of times to make a tiny coil that I dropped into the shaft where the 510 screws into. Taking a bent needle nose plier to grip the contact pin already installed in the base with the washer I screwed the 510 pin till it made contact and started to compress the kanthal and kept turning till I got the 510 to the height I wanted. My thinking is with the kanthal being compressed and the 510 pin and having a little torque pressure on the threads makes a better electrical path, and if you think about it, adding a second washer under the contact pin does almost the same thing as when you tighten the 510 it will make contact with the bottom insulator and start to pull the contact pin down.
Researching the group I have always read that you always want your atty screws tight, to make a good solid connection - so this should hold true for the 510 pin too.
</snip>
I bet if you set your device to 30 watts 200 deg with a 1 ohm load you will not measure 30 watts. Which would make it incorrect method to use watts to begin with on temperature limiting devices.
Yihi is measuring watts / sec "joules" which is variable with temperature limiting and would be a correct method.
I'm relatively certain your aware of this so I'm not sure why you come to this thread with the smear campaign.
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I've honestly been using 30J on Powerful+ mostly, and on my DNA 40s I use 30watts no matter the temp selected. I wouldn't say it is the same but the experience is relatively close.
If the DNA 40 showed the voltage it was putting out with watts selected then we would be able to tell easily. Upping the Joules shows the voltage increase on the SX Mini.
I'm holding out for those right now!
I have an Atlantis and a lemo, you would think with it being aspire, and, multiple clearos using the aspire coils someone would have done it by now.
I'm not a fan of the subtank; because of Kanger Management issues.
yep.... I know of a person that has used beta Atlantis nickel's for a while now but why they are holding back I have no idea....maybe they want it to be just right when they release them... hope so...seldom is anything exactly right when it is new vaping stuff....always seems updates are needed.... remembering back to the CE days... CE1, CE2, CE3, CE4....etc....
No, with temperature control there is no fixed time element for any given wattage, it is constantly varying and inherently optional. The most that can be said is what the instantaneous wattage is, so it is inappropriate to use joules. If you set your device to 30joules, 200 degrees with a thin wire, you will not measure 30 joules either, unless you lose control of the time element, i.e. it fires without the button being depressed. I'm pretty sure people would notice that.
Hahahah!!!! Guessing that's akin to the multiple variations of the ipv3.... Charge port, plugged chargeport...no chargeport.
I started after the ce4s were out and got away from clearos on my first pack of kanger coils. 2 out of 5 worked, so I went to rbas really quick. Now I'm back on clearos.
How ironic
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