SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[refuzeandrezizt]

Received my SX Mini M yesterday, so I have been playing with it since about noon yesterday. Right off the bat I noticed that one side sticks out a little farther, as has been mentioned on here. Not a big deal to me. I also noticed the hum/buzz. Very faint, and I can only hear it if I hold it up to my ear. Again, no biggie to me. I was impressed with the size and feel. It isn't much bigger than my istick 50! Weight seems to be hefty, but I like that. The device is extremely nice, and I am glad I took the leap.

Now, I have done about six different Ni200 builds. So far, I can tell I have some learning to do on what will work best for me. Working with the Ni wire is no problem to me, so far. Finding a good reliable, repeatable setup is what I am going for. Right now I have a six wrap, 28 gauge, 3mm ID coil going in my Lemo Drop. Working very nice. Sets to .08 to .10 depending on when I click to set it. I had a twisted 28 Kanthal / 28 Ni200 in my STM that was working great for a bit, and then it started popping hot liquid up into my mouth. It was also six wraps, and 3mm ID. Will rebuild that one when I get back home tonight. I also put a test build in my Mutation X just to see if the TC would work, it did. I ran the STM empty to test that as well, worked as it should.

So, I am loving this thing so far. Using it in power mode, or bypass mode, it is great. The TC seems to function as it should also, just have some work to do in order to find a build that I can repeat with the same results each time. The fit and finish are wonderful, and it feels great in the hand. I say it was well worth the $200 price tag. I have never had a dna 40 device, so I can not compare it to that. If you are on the fence though for this unit, just do it!

Also, for the record, here is my device check info:

Factory time=2015-03-29 00:00:00

Verify Counter=1

Last Time=2015-04-04 15:49:34

 

[Vlad1]

oh well...I am going deaf for sure!

This will help you hear it.

 

[refuzeandrezizt]

Also, for the record, all I have ever used are the purple eFest batteries. I have six of them, and they all work like a dream. Been using them in the SX and they have worked fine as well. I'm a heavy user, and I am squeezing about 5 to 6 hours out of one battery, around 22,000 joules.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

This will help you hear it.

haha! I doubt it...

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Im kind of interested that yihi seem to think builds around 0.1 ohms or even less are optimal for this beast. This contrasts markedly with the comments from Brandon suggesting that 0.4 or so would be better (although not achievable with Ni really).Is the SX somehow tuned for these 0.08-0.12 ohm builds to account for the fact that these resistances are more easily attainable with useabkle guages of Ni wire? Am I just going nuts?

 

[dr g]

Im kind of interested that yihi seem to think builds around 0.1 ohms or even less are optimal for this beast. This contrasts markedly with the comments from Brandon suggesting that 0.4 or so would be better (although not achievable with Ni really).Is the SX somehow tuned for these 0.08-0.12 ohm builds to account for the fact that these resistances are more easily attainable with useabkle guages of Ni wire? Am I just going nuts?

Simple physics, the higher the resistance the less a variation in metering matters.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Simple physics, the higher the resistance the less a variation in metering matters.

Well exactly - so yihi are going at the wrong way it seems?!?!

 

[Vlad1]

Im kind of interested that yihi seem to think builds around 0.1 ohms or even less are optimal for this beast. This contrasts markedly with the comments from Brandon suggesting that 0.4 or so would be better (although not achievable with Ni really).Is the SX somehow tuned for these 0.08-0.12 ohm builds to account for the fact that these resistances are more easily attainable with useabkle guages of Ni wire? Am I just going nuts?

Whose this Brandon you speak of is he an ex Yihi engineer? What are his credentials to know what would be optimal? I'm finding .07Ω - .14Ω to work great for me. A .4Ω coil using 28g ni200 would be about 60 wraps, not very practical and would probably take a year to heat up.

 

[ahgnus]

I just wanted to take time to thank everyone on this thread for such informative and civil discussions. I've been following this thread from page 1, and I have learned a lot about TC and M class while enjoying all ranges of dicussion here, sometimes geeky and other times OCD but all entertaining and informative. Special thanks to technonaut and everyone else for much contribution.

Thank you.

 

[Vlad1]

From Onedesign1 at Varitube with his post on Yihi's response to the humm in joule mode.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...yihi-sxmini-mod-varitube-13.html#post15654758

If it hasn't been yet this should be posted around today:

Statement Regarding slight Buzzing noise in Joule mode:

Under the Joule mode, the chip is constantly controlling the temperature and making adjustments to maintain the setting. As a result, there may be a slight hum or buzzing while it is working, this is normal, Please do not worry about it.

Because the technology of M Class is the newest, and supports lower sub-ohm resistance, we suggest a 0.06-0.12 ohm base on Temco Ni-200. You can get the perfect experinces when you build the atomizer with the resistance 0.06ohm. However, if using the resistance above 0.3 ohm or Khanthal atomizers there will be variance and some unexpected behaviors may be observed in Joule mode.

 

[coustain]

I just wanted to take time to thank everyone on this thread for such informative and civil discussions. I've been following this thread from page 1, and I have learned a lot about TC and M class while enjoying all ranges of dicussion here, sometimes geeky and other times OCD but all entertaining and informative. Special thanks to technonaut and everyone else for much contribution.

Thank you.

I agree, this will be my first TC mod (currently using mechs and an IPV2x) and I learned more from this thread than I knew collectively prior. I'm ready for my SX Mini to get here tomorrow!


Sent from my iPhablet using Tapatalk

 

[HolmanGT]

Whose this Brandon you speak of is he an ex Yihi engineer? What are his credentials to know what would be optimal? I'm finding .07Ω - .14Ω to work great for me. A .4Ω coil using 28g ni200 would be about 60 wraps, not very practical and would probably take a year to heat up.

Vlad,

Brandon is one of the owners of "Evolv" the Mfg of the DNA40 and the comment about 0.4 ohms was regarding the DNA40 not the SX.

As far as SX recommending 0.065 ohms as optimum vs Evolve recommending 0.4 ohms for the DNA40 a lot would depend on the output impedance of the two devices.

You get maximum transfer of energy when the source impedance equals the load impedance. So if the SX is designed with a lower output impedance than some other unit that would account for YiHi recommending an optimal load impedance of 0.065 ohms. It all has to do with efficiency.

 

[Vlad1]

Vlad,

Brandon is one of the owners of "Evolv" the Mfg of the DNA40 and the comment about 0.4 ohms was regarding the DNA40 not the SX.

As far as SX recommending 0.065 ohms as optimum vs Evolve recommending 0.4 ohms for the DNA40 a lot would depend on the output impedance of the two devices.

You get maximum transfer of energy when the source impedance equals the load impedance. So if the SX is designed with a lower output impedance than some other unit that would account for YiHi recommending an optimal load impedance of 0.065 ohms. It all has to do with efficiency.

Yea I knew who he was referencing, I was just jabbing at him . I've stated in other forums I don't understand why folks even compare these devices when there is so little in common other than making vapor and that's "Temperature control" Comparing a 40w device to a 60w -120w capable device just is like comparing an Ego twist to a mech imo. They have completely different input / output specs and features and from what I'm reading on the forums I'm certainly happy with the camp I chose.

 

[peraspera]

From Onedesign1 at Varitube with his post on Yihi's response to the humm in joule mode.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...yihi-sxmini-mod-varitube-13.html#post15654758
Because the technology of M Class is the newest, and supports lower sub-ohm resistance, we suggest a 0.06-0.12 ohm base on Temco Ni-200. You can get the perfect experinces when you build the atomizer with the resistance 0.06ohm. However, if using the resistance above 0.3 ohm or Khanthal atomizers there will be variance and some unexpected behaviors may be observed in Joule mode.

I can confirm inconsistent temperature control behavior between .21 and .38 oHms. I also saw it with a .16 Vapor Shark Ni200 Kanger Subtank head but not so pronounced. It's hard to know exactly why this is as there is no useful screen feedback.

I tried temps between 350°—450 at 10° increments with my Marquis, Magma, Tilemahos and Subtank Mini. The screen showed the coils reaching the temperature limit immediately and basically staying there. However, the temperature of of the vape varied noticeably. Hopefully, lower oHm builds will produce better temperature consistency.

 

[Technonut]

It's all a matter of working within the manufacturer's engineering parameters.. Many are enjoying the M Class, and that's what matters in the end.. Who knows what improvements future firmware revisions / tweaks will bring to the table..

 

[HolmanGT]

Yea I knew who he was referencing, I was just jabbing at him . I've stated in other forums I don't understand why folks even compare these devices when there is so little in common other than making vapor and that's "Temperature control" Comparing a 40w device to a 60w -120w capable device just is like comparing an Ego twist to a mech imo. They have completely different input / output specs and features and from what I'm reading on the forums I'm certainly happy with the camp I chose.

Vlad,

Sorry, didn't realize you were being sarcastic in regards to Brandon and the Evolv technology. I don't care that much for Brandon either I rate him right up there with a Snake Oil hawker.

 

[sUPERIORITE]

That's awesome that you are enjoying the SX Mini and that it is working properly for you.

I just want to say that your Vapor Shark is either defective or you possibly had the temp set too high for it to burn the cotton. I have a Hana Modz V4m and Vapor Flask 2.1 (both DNA40s like the VS) and I have never burned cotton or come close to it. I have used the ni200 OCC for the Subtank Mini on both as well (have it on the Hana right now). Every time you unscrew and screw the atomizer back in (especially after you just fired, wait till both the device and atomizer are room temp again), you are coming out of refinement (on the DNA 40).



I would recommend calling Vapor Shark and explaining to them what is happening. If it is not user error, they will service it for you since it is still under warranty.

Yes I did wait till both devices were back at room temp. We had also run this same test today with my friends flask and it behaved a bit better but would never leave the cotton as dry as the SX did. I may be wondering if in fact my VS does have an issue!

 

[Vlad1]

I can confirm inconsistent temperature control behavior between .21 and .38 oHms. I also saw it with a .16 Vapor Shark Ni200 Kanger Subtank head but not so pronounced. It's hard to know exactly why this is as there is no useful screen feedback.

I tried temps between 350°—450 at 10° increments with my Marquis, Magma, Tilemahos and Subtank Mini. The screen showed the coils reaching the temperature limit immediately and basically staying there. However, the temperature of of the vape varied noticeably. Hopefully, lower oHm builds will produce better temperature consistency.

I've not noticed any inconsistency in vapor temperature at least from a user experience and I don't have anything to actually measure the temperature but I'd suggest if you are seeing this first try to stay within the .05Ω - .3Ω resistance they recommend in the manual. Use atomizers that you can wrap your coil under the head of the screw and that you know will not have any potential connection problems with "brass, copper center pins would be best imo" and make sure all your connections are clean. That's one of the main reasons I'm wanting to see Pbusardo's review because I know he has some kind of temperature measuring devices to work with and I'm really interested in how accurate this thing really is compared to how it feels.

 

[HolmanGT]

It's all a matter of working within the manufacturer's engineering parameters.. Many are enjoying the M Class, and that's what matters in the end.. Who knows what improvements future firmware revisions / tweaks will bring to the table..

Technonut,

With my SX M Class I haven't had any problems (knock on wood). Nor have I wished for any upgrades to fix some minor issue mostly because I haven't noticed any on my unit.

That said one aspect of the SXmini M Class that I appreciate the most is the fact that the firmware can be user upgraded should the need or a new feature arise. With other vendors if you bought in early you are just up the proverbial creek.

 

[Vlad1]

Vlad,

Sorry, didn't realize you were being sarcastic in regards to Brandon and the Evolv technology. I don't care that much for Brandon either I rate him right up there with a Snake Oil hawker.

No I wasn't being jabbing at Brandon, I was jabbing at TheotherSteveS for referencing Brandon as if he was the authority. And I don' t like / dislike him anymore than I like / dislike Lau from Aspire. Their businessmen putting out products.