SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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JimScotty0

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I threw one more wrap on each side and now it's reading at .055, thanks for that! I was trying to hit .065 using the steam engine ohm calculator, but it appears to not quite be exact with these tanks, most likely due to operator error lol. I'm almost positive this is the sweet spot for this build on my Goblin. Dual 30G Ni200, 2mm ID, 7/6 Wrap, wicked with Cotton Bacon, I'm now firing at 30J and 415 Degrees F.
Dual coils is more complex and challenging to get right with TC. I bet when you find that sweet spot it will be a good vape but too much work for me. I will stick with the single coils with TC but maybe experiment with twisted wire or maybe even venture into the Kanthal/NI200 mix of 30 or 32ga of which I currently don't have.
 

JimScotty0

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Hi
Don't think I was clear. Try this
Hit - button to change mode (soft, standard etc)
Before hitting fire, hit + button as if you were going to different M bank.

On mine, the mode changes instead of going to M3 or whatever. Hit fire then + goes to M as usual.

Cheers
Steve
From what I understand from your statement that is expected results. Once you go into mode change mode the + and - buttons will go forward and backward through the mode settings unless you hit the fire button or let it timeout. Until that happens you can't change the memory banks.
 

2legsshrt

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No, it is just OCD. lol I am shooting for 28g NI2000 on 3mm with 5/6 wraps to bring down the resistance. I am finding the best control with the lower values. When using the pre-built Kanger coils I don't really have a choice and have to work with it due to the fixed values. It works well too, but different.
Well maybe I'll pull a wrap off. Should put me below .1
 

jbok

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Hi all.. Sorry to cut in, but I'm in the middle of my first nickel build and I'm having a few problems. I had read that yihi wants the resistance to be as close as .065 correct? I have a build using 28g with 3 wraps using a 7/64 bit reading at .09. I have the joules and temp set at is lowest setting and its still burning the cotton. What am I doing wrong? Does anyone have a recommended build?
 

dam718

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Hi all.. Sorry to cut in, but I'm in the middle of my first nickel build and I'm having a few problems. I had read that yihi wants the resistance to be as close as .065 correct? I have a build using 28g with 3 wraps using a 7/64 bit reading at .09. I have the joules and temp set at is lowest setting and its still burning the cotton. What am I doing wrong? Does anyone have a recommended build?

With 28AWG on a 7/65" bit, you should be doing around 5 wraps for a .065 build according to steam engine:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

You definitely should be seeing way less than .09 with only 3 wraps. Something funky is going on there. You sure that's 28AWG wire?
 

JimScotty0

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Hi all.. Sorry to cut in, but I'm in the middle of my first nickel build and I'm having a few problems. I had read that yihi wants the resistance to be as close as .065 correct? I have a build using 28g with 3 wraps using a 7/64 bit reading at .09. I have the joules and temp set at is lowest setting and its still burning the cotton. What am I doing wrong? Does anyone have a recommended build?
Sounds like you may not be using spaced wraps. They can't touch each other or they will burn the cotton.

Yes, .065 is the target. I use 28ga NI200, 3mm with 5/6 wraps with great results. Be sure you are using NI200 and not other Nickel blends which is very important. You should come out around .07 or so with that build. With only 3 wraps your resistance might get too low but certainly lower than the .09 you are getting so maybe your coil may not have a good connection. Be sure to wash your wire with soapy water or with an ultrasonic bath and then rinse well. Many have reported a nasty taste for about 30 mins of usage if you don't. It may all depend on the wire you have.
 

nic_fix

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sorry im late folks. I am using the prebuilt occ ni200 coils in the subtank mini. when cool and I mate I get about .12 usually. I am at 36j, 520f. it kicks it too 220f when fired for a couple seconds. it goes right to 220f and stays there. longer fire and it will go down more to like 180 after 4 seconds. getting this on new coils but they stay consistent until they die. I am using 100%vg. I have no idea why it will not work lower. if I set it to like 420 it will still back off to 220f but then there is nothing but a fizzle. is there actually a problem with it being this high? thank you for helping me guys.
 

laurie9300

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Hi all.. Sorry to cut in, but I'm in the middle of my first nickel build and I'm having a few problems. I had read that yihi wants the resistance to be as close as .065 correct? I have a build using 28g with 3 wraps using a 7/64 bit reading at .09. I have the joules and temp set at is lowest setting and its still burning the cotton. What am I doing wrong? Does anyone have a recommended build?
Did you set resistance? Press + and - at the same time?

- edit - sorry, I see that you did........
 

JimScotty0

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And just so I'm clear I set temp put the atty on the push both setting buttons at the same time to marry the two correct?
It doesn't matter what temp you have set or anything else for that matter. With a new build be sure the atty is connected tightly and let it rest for about 15 minutes to ensure they are at ambient temperature. Then press the 2 buttons to calibrate and lock in the resistance.

You can go from there to adjust everything else. You can try the method I posted last night to find your proper settings for your build, ejuice, etc.

Nic_fix, give this method a try... He at first sets the Joules low and then works his way up. I do it a little different but similar.

My current coil that I am using right now is baselined out at .090 on my Lemo 2. I am now setting my Joules to only 8J on Standard mode and set my temp somewhere high depending on the ejuice. With VG I am finding that I have to go about 30-40F higher than a lower VG ratio. YMMV. So I might start out at say 530F. I then fire it watching it rise up to what it wants to level out to so I can get an idea of where things like to play out. If you hold down the fire button even longer it will start to creep up even more, but I am looking for that First Plateau that it settles down on at first which may only last about a second. I am doing this while just watching the mod and not vaping and trying to look at it with a mirror. That might actually work better but it is too inconvenient for me. lol

With the ejuice I am using now, which is high VG, I hit 480F where it seems to stabilize out even though my temp is set to 530F. I have found no good reason to go above the 480F with my current build since the ejuice doesn't seem to vaporize any better above that. Believe me I have tried. It just seems to waste ejuice turning into a gas rather than a vapor. So I then bring down my temp to 480F and start bringing up the joules to where the temperature doesn't jump around too much while watching the temp and adjusting the Joules. Repeating it again and again. If you set the joules too high the temp may jump as much as 50F higher than what you have it set at and it is bouncing all around trying to keep it at your temp even though you are giving it more power than it needs. I can guarantee you if you set it at 50J you will see the temp going crazy and not very stable at all. Too high a Joules setting and you are just having your mod have a fight with itself so to speak.

At a good joules setting I find that it may just hit the temp mark you set or maybe just jump about 4-6F at most more than your setting. In my current build I hit it at 21J. Once you see that you are reaching the optimum temperature and just the right amount of joules you will get the best vaporization of your ejuice. You can then set the mode to Soft, Powerful, Powerful + or just keep it on the Standard mode depending on your style or mood. That is just the ramp up or down and for your personal preference and only used for the first 2 seconds of your vape. With this technique I am finding great cloud production and able to distinctly enjoy all aspects of the flavor. Just an awesome experience IMHO.

I have also done this technique with my Delta II RBA and the Kanger Subtank Mini with RBA or with the Prebuilt Nickel coils. My experience has found that depending on the resistance of the coil, the build type, the resistance of the atty itself, and the ejuice, the numbers may play out to be much different. My temp settings have settled in anywhere from 380F to 540F depending on the combination of the variables. I am finding that the actual value in temperature may or may not be accurate in real world terms, but it is a constant with the same tank, build, wicking, ejuice, etc. There are just too many variables to just make a statement of which is the right number for me and every build or coil is potentially different. It is not a sleep number bed type of deal. lol :thumbs:

We are all learning how to use this technology and it is what it is which is not perfect. But if we can learn to use the tech to our advantage we may achieve our goals. In my case I want it safe, big clouds, and lots of flavor.

I am curious to see if anyone else has tried or can try this technique and see if their results are as promising as I have had. If someone else has had some other technique to find those magic numbers please share it so we can all learn and enjoy from it. :party:
I know, tell me, I must have OCD right? :rickroll:
 

JimScotty0

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Ok just did another bill and it's coming out .096 and that's with five wraps
That is quite a bit better but it seems a little high for only 5 wraps. That would be the case if you didn't let things settle down to ambient temperature.

This nickel wire changes with even slight temperature increases such as firing it quickly so you really want to be sure it is at ambient temperature. Everything from that point forward will be skewed so that step is very important with the SX M Class.
 

JimScotty0

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is the resistance lock a benefit or drawback? I do not know if that feature is superior or inferior to the dna40. I do wish I could vape it straight away.
There have been many posts on either side of that argument so it may be just your personal interpretation of the Yihi method. Personally I like it that way and can easily vape on another mod while things settle down.
 

2legsshrt

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Hi all.. Sorry to cut in, but I'm in the middle of my first nickel build and I'm having a few problems. I had read that yihi wants the resistance to be as close as .065 correct? I have a build using 28g with 3 wraps using a 7/64 bit reading at .09. I have the joules and temp set at is lowest setting and its still burning the cotton. What am I doing wrong? Does anyone have a recommended build?
There is definately something wrong. I just finished my new coil 28awg 3mm almost the same as 7/64 7wraps came out at .089. You either have coils touching or something is shorting. What are you building it on? To get that reading it would be more like 7 wraps like mine. 3 wraps according to steam engine should be around .04 which would be too low anyway but to get .09 you need about 6-7 depending on the device. Maybe someone else can give you better info but it's not right.
 
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