SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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dam718

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I just tried this and it was sitting right between 175-185° until it started drying out. Seems pretty low doesn't it?

No, cause you're never really getting the water hot enough to boil it. It's still very much in it's liquid state inside the coil, providing a coolant mechanism. That's about where I get to as well. If you're passing 212, you know you have a problem :)
 

jimho

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okay. my s the paint flew off. my m is fine. lets be honest here. even though this totl. china is known more than anything else for poor qc! I really don't know about my coil. the fact it takes only .065 and they do not mention this in bold type tells me this is a typical Chinese botch job. it does not matter how much we spent. look at the pages of a myriad of issues here. look at a provari thread in comparison. I think this thing was under cooked. I hate to be the one to come to this conclusion but read the last 60 pages and you tell me. in all fairness the dna40 is none the better. perhaps tc(and the paint job) were not ready for prime time. there will be many that disagree with me but stop a moment and look what is going on here. I do not doubt my coil is to blame and my paint is fine. however I think this thing has definite issues. can any one really deny this? maybe you got tc working and your paint is fine. count yourself very lucky then! I am sorry to be the one to come up with this revelation. I wonder how this will be received about to find out.......

I think that's a bit of over reaction although I can understand some frustration since you can't seem to get your rig working right.
So far the only real issue is the paint comes off faster than it should- on a scale of 1-10 that's a 1 or a 2 - I'm not complaining. We have the option to buy a 3rd party box, make our own., or put a skin on it for another $12...

Why is the .065 such an issue? It was published in the original documentation that temperature control was designed to work best on coils built at .065, To be fair, you (and others) either just didn't read it or decided to ignore that so they are putting it in bold. That's like complaining that the P3 won't give you over 20W.

No this isn't a Provari, it isn't finished to the same level and it's not meant for the same audience. The P3 had its share of issues when it first shipped, and the original Provari took about 6 months to work out some major kinks with the battery cut off limit...

Yes, it's made in China...and there are language challenges, but all you had to do was look at their website to see that one coming.
Yes, it's made in China and final finish leaves something to be desired (although the fit is surprisingly better than I expected)
Yes, TC is new and Yihi is making new rules on us...

But, finding the strengths, weaknesses, and limitations *and what works best) on a new device is part of the fun here. Kind of like a modern car, if you want to get the most out of it, you need to turn off the stability controls and that can make driving a lot trickier. Especially when the instructions are translated from Chineese. ... I don't think there are significant issues yet, and I don't think there's anything "going on" other than some unexpected behavior that needs explaining....
 

Sgt. Pepper

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Ok. I have some 28g Ni200. I would appreciate a build recommendation for a Lemo 2 with suggested settings for my SX Mini M. :)

I'll give you a recommendation but I'm sure someone won't like it. I like 7 wraps at 3mm right around .09 but if you want to get the .065 I think is around 5 maybe 4 wraps.

I'm using 28g ni200 wire with 5/6 wraps around a 3mm screwdriver in a lemo drop on my sx mini m. The resistance I got last night was showing 0.19. Since, I have run a full tank thru it and it is now showing 0.29. I seem to be way off your figures 2legsshrt. I'm sure it's me, but can someone explain what I would need to do to get a coil around the .065 mark?

p.s. I'm running it at 25J and temperature is set at 330F.
 
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Croak

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Hi any tips for the wicking part? Sometimes I tend to get a slight dry hit when I take a long draw..
I fully open the afc and it's already pretty airy.. If I use the S kit won't it get more airy still ?

The K4 wicks best with coils larger than 2.5mm. 3mm-3.5mm is IMO ideal. Wicks should just touch the deck, and switching to the PMMA or metal tanks can help if you're using thicker juices.

Here's a good, reliable, repeatable wicking method for the K4, though you don't have to be quite so OCD as the reviewer...takes me about two minutes start to finish, and nary a dry hit even with Max VG:



As for the S kit, you don't really need it unless you are doing high temps. The standard V4 has a screw for the AFC. This can be removed and I suggest you try this. It will open the airflow a little. Plus you can always pot the screw back in if you don't like it. The s kit is only .2mm bigger so you can decide if you really need it. I got the kit for the gold spring and the insulator. Lots of youtube out there on that.

The 4S kit provides a 2.7mm airflow tube, the stock tube is 2.2mm wide open. That's 0.5mm bigger, and it's a SIGNIFICANT difference in draw, and for me personally, changed the K4 from a "too-restrictive sit on the shelf never use this again keep the Nautilus company waste of money" into a "this ain't bad" atomizer. The fact that the 4S kit adds a quality Peek insulator is gravy.

And I think I posted this already in the thread, but it's worth posting again, here's a great way to build with annealed nickel. It's more applicable to DNA40 devices and thinner wire, but works just fine on the SX too:

 

nic_fix

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yes, in retrospect I probably did overreact. look, none of these things are perfect. I said in jest that the dna40 is none the better. they all have quirks but perhaps not "issues". I will apologize that I jumped the gun on that one. I was just adding up the quirks. to tell the truth mine works fine for me even if I am fooling the tc. the .065 is within reason actually. the paint failing is not imo. even though my paint is fine. my s class however shed all of it's paint entirely. I do like it honestly. I was just trying to read between the lines and perhaps I was wearing the wrong glasses. I do not know what persuaded me to jump to that conclusion in retrospect. I figured it seems a lot of you are having problems building and then the paint failure. I maintain mine works fine even if I know none the better. I apologize for making such a brash blanket statement that was most likely unfounded. I truthfully thought I was doing so on the behalf of others. apparently I misunderstood all I have read here. my bad and I am sorry I did so.
 

Jake67

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It goes against the principles to wrap around the screws? LMAO, you should actually try it..... My Lemo never tasted so good!
Thanks for info. Rebuilt both my Lemo 2 last night.
28 gauge/ 3mm / 5 wraps. One with trapping the coil like I do came on at .069. I tried your way same build came in at .11.
I think I'll stick with my way. I like the flavor better at .069.



Sent from my iPhone
 

Croak

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Jake, if trapping under the screw gave you almost double the resistance, that tells me you didn't have it tight enough, or you made the (understandable) mistake of wrapping long legs 270-360 degrees around the screws, or both. Ideally, it should actually be a bit lower resistance under the screw, because the legs will be shorter than running way down to the holes if you just do a 90-180 degree turn around the screw.
 

IanDVaypes

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okay. my s the paint flew off. my m is fine. lets be honest here. even though this totl. china is known more than anything else for poor qc! I really don't know about my coil. the fact it takes only .065 and they do not mention this in bold type tells me this is a typical Chinese botch job. it does not matter how much we spent. look at the pages of a myriad of issues here. look at a provari thread in comparison. I think this thing was under cooked. I hate to be the one to come to this conclusion but read the last 60 pages and you tell me. in all fairness the dna40 is none the better. perhaps tc(and the paint job) were not ready for prime time. there will be many that disagree with me but stop a moment and look what is going on here. I do not doubt my coil is to blame and my paint is fine. however I think this thing has definite issues. can any one really deny this? maybe you got tc working and your paint is fine. count yourself very lucky then! I am sorry to be the one to come up with this revelation. I wonder how this will be received about to find out.......
Lol. The provari doesn't do temp regulation. If provape added temp regulation, you'll see the thread turn around because it's a learning curve and people will get frustrated. If you're talking about the sx mini in just power mode, no one will have any issues what so ever.
 

WideO

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An interesting review (in German) from Obi with some additional measurements, although he wasn't as thorough measuring the Joules settings as he normally is.



All in all a glowing review - but he does mention the paint problems that some have reported, as well as the gap that some see under the 510 ring on his black version. His grey version however did not show any small defects at all.
 

ChrisCanal

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Lol. The provari doesn't do temp regulation. If provape added temp regulation, you'll see the thread turn around because it's a learning curve and people will get frustrated. If you're talking about the sx mini in just power mode, no one will have any issues what so ever.

I would like to add for the record that i dont have a single complaint with the M Class. Mine still looks brand new. Granted i may be more careful with my things than others, but it doesnt have a scratch after close to a month of all day usage. As long as build was done correctly, it has performed flawlessly. AND I have yet to put a coil on it that is close to the magical .065 everyone is talking about. My lemo 2 is at .16, 22.5J, 400F. Works great unless i use too thick of a juice. My Delta 2 i have at closer to .20. I use the same temp, mnaybe a bit higher J. I have not had a problem with RDA's either. Pretty much anything i build, i use from 375-425 or so, and all have been outstanding. I have not even used any of my other mods lately, as i like this one so much. Not sure whay there are so many complaints, aside from the paint issues. I have to think it comes down to build quality more than anything with TC. Just my $0.02

edit...i just put a 0.070 coil in my Delta, and the vape is not any "better" or "worse" to me. Just different. I had to up the temp to around 475F, so maybe you need to set in a lower temp as resistance goes up? Anyways the point is once i get the settings where i like them, it hasnt mattered too much the resistance of my build.
 
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WideO

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In the mean time (sorry for double post) I bit the bullet and got my KF4 working - 5 wraps 3.5mm 0.081ohm, 15J - without any issues at all. Temp hoovers around 360°F. That is a first in 5 months TC vaping. I'm not even going to try to understand this, but for whatever reason, the SX doesn't seem to mind my style of coiling and wicking. This is a really nice surprise.
 

jimho

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yes, in retrospect I probably did overreact. look, none of these things are perfect. I said in jest that the dna40 is none the better. they all have quirks but perhaps not "issues". I will apologize that I jumped the gun on that one. I was just adding up the quirks. to tell the truth mine works fine for me even if I am fooling the tc. the .065 is within reason actually. the paint failing is not imo. even though my paint is fine. my s class however shed all of it's paint entirely. I do like it honestly. I was just trying to read between the lines and perhaps I was wearing the wrong glasses. I do not know what persuaded me to jump to that conclusion in retrospect. I figured it seems a lot of you are having problems building and then the paint failure. I maintain mine works fine even if I know none the better. I apologize for making such a brash blanket statement that was most likely unfounded. I truthfully thought I was doing so on the behalf of others. apparently I misunderstood all I have read here. my bad and I am sorry I did so.

No apologies needed - I've lived through some big disappointments where new "revolutionary" devices were total epic failures that were pulled (anyone remember the Eclipse/EQ?) .... others that never made it to market and a few where developers took deposits and then disappeared. Just wanted to put these "issues" in perspective-
 

retird

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No apologies needed - I've lived through some big disappointments where new "revolutionary" devices were total epic failures that were pulled (anyone remember the Eclipse/EQ?) .... others that never made it to market and a few where developers took deposits and then disappeared. Just wanted to put these "issues" in perspective-
Yep.... the EQ was quite a ride..several beta tests and the leaking issue damaging the circuits showed up after release.....recalled with the promise to fix it and market it but never seen again. The devise was revolutionary (auto juice feed) but no one since has carried on with that approach. (that I know of)

images.jpg
 
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chia

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If all readings are correct, like 20J 400f, can ni200 glow?
Asking bcos had a build last nite 27g Ni200, 3-4 wrap set at 20j and about 400f. Vapes weird so took out the deck to observe the coil under firing.. Strange enough it starts glowing lightly, but when I check the readings they are normal temp mode figures..
 

2legsshrt

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Yeah it's a shame as I liked the tank's. Flavour is nice too. But they leak. All of them. Kanga tech sent me new o rings too but after the tank was filled I get leaks. Two originals and a mini. I have £200 worth of new coils sent from China too! I will find a home for them.
You know I saw a video once that said if you look at the glass part of the tank really close one end is flat one is rounded. While I have not noticed this myself he said the rounded end should go towards the top of the tank the flat towards the bottom piece that you unscrew. Like I say I have never had a problem on any device but you might check that. It's just weird to me that yours will leak and no one elses will. I have 4 minis and 1 of the old 25mm. I don't use the 25mm but it is laying here on my end table full of juice laying on its side. Did you check the authenticity of them. I just can't under stand why you would have problems with all of yours and it is not wide spread. It makes no sense. Where does it leak from. I know there were some clones out there.
 

2legsshrt

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I'm using 28g ni200 wire with 5/6 wraps around a 3mm screwdriver in a lemo drop on my sx mini m. The resistance I got last night was showing 0.19. Since, I have run a full tank thru it and it is now showing 0.29. I seem to be way off your figures 2legsshrt. I'm sure it's me, but can someone explain what I would need to do to get a coil around the .065 mark?

p.s. I'm running it at 25J and temperature is set at 330F.
That is weird. I run a 7 wrap 28awg 3mm it comes out .09 on either one of mine.
 
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PapaPro

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Thank you so much Croak. What about the gold spring. That was one of the main reasons I got the S kit. I was mis-informed from my B&M about the sizes. Still my bad!

I have been having issues since yesterday. Had a week of great all day vaping. Now my Oms are all over the place. If I get a decent reading (0.086 ish 6/7 wrap) and leave for 10 mins and check again it goes uo to 2.5 OHMS all by it's self. So weird. I am sure its a connection issue.

I also noticed that having a great vape and the tank runs low on juice. I fill up my V4 tank and now the OMS are off again and the settings have changed again. Just like the DNA I have to take off the tank and refit until I get a good reading again. So mine is going back to the shop me thinks.

Last night I built a new build and it worked great. This moring I am getting 0.007 OMS?. I have not touched the device. I think this is an error as it gets stuck. I will contact YiHI too.

Take care all
 
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