That is exactly what I am using and it works perfectly.I take the battery cover off with a US Nickel... Cost me 5 cents... LoL
That is exactly what I am using and it works perfectly.I take the battery cover off with a US Nickel... Cost me 5 cents... LoL
I just tried this and it was sitting right between 175-185° until it started drying out. Seems pretty low doesn't it?
okay. my s the paint flew off. my m is fine. lets be honest here. even though this totl. china is known more than anything else for poor qc! I really don't know about my coil. the fact it takes only .065 and they do not mention this in bold type tells me this is a typical Chinese botch job. it does not matter how much we spent. look at the pages of a myriad of issues here. look at a provari thread in comparison. I think this thing was under cooked. I hate to be the one to come to this conclusion but read the last 60 pages and you tell me. in all fairness the dna40 is none the better. perhaps tc(and the paint job) were not ready for prime time. there will be many that disagree with me but stop a moment and look what is going on here. I do not doubt my coil is to blame and my paint is fine. however I think this thing has definite issues. can any one really deny this? maybe you got tc working and your paint is fine. count yourself very lucky then! I am sorry to be the one to come up with this revelation. I wonder how this will be received about to find out.......
That is exactly what I am using and it works perfectly.
Ok. I have some 28g Ni200. I would appreciate a build recommendation for a Lemo 2 with suggested settings for my SX Mini M.![]()
I'll give you a recommendation but I'm sure someone won't like it. I like 7 wraps at 3mm right around .09 but if you want to get the .065 I think is around 5 maybe 4 wraps.
Hi any tips for the wicking part? Sometimes I tend to get a slight dry hit when I take a long draw..
I fully open the afc and it's already pretty airy.. If I use the S kit won't it get more airy still ?
As for the S kit, you don't really need it unless you are doing high temps. The standard V4 has a screw for the AFC. This can be removed and I suggest you try this. It will open the airflow a little. Plus you can always pot the screw back in if you don't like it. The s kit is only .2mm bigger so you can decide if you really need it. I got the kit for the gold spring and the insulator. Lots of youtube out there on that.
Thanks for info. Rebuilt both my Lemo 2 last night.It goes against the principles to wrap around the screws? LMAO, you should actually try it..... My Lemo never tasted so good!
Lol. The provari doesn't do temp regulation. If provape added temp regulation, you'll see the thread turn around because it's a learning curve and people will get frustrated. If you're talking about the sx mini in just power mode, no one will have any issues what so ever.okay. my s the paint flew off. my m is fine. lets be honest here. even though this totl. china is known more than anything else for poor qc! I really don't know about my coil. the fact it takes only .065 and they do not mention this in bold type tells me this is a typical Chinese botch job. it does not matter how much we spent. look at the pages of a myriad of issues here. look at a provari thread in comparison. I think this thing was under cooked. I hate to be the one to come to this conclusion but read the last 60 pages and you tell me. in all fairness the dna40 is none the better. perhaps tc(and the paint job) were not ready for prime time. there will be many that disagree with me but stop a moment and look what is going on here. I do not doubt my coil is to blame and my paint is fine. however I think this thing has definite issues. can any one really deny this? maybe you got tc working and your paint is fine. count yourself very lucky then! I am sorry to be the one to come up with this revelation. I wonder how this will be received about to find out.......
Lol. The provari doesn't do temp regulation. If provape added temp regulation, you'll see the thread turn around because it's a learning curve and people will get frustrated. If you're talking about the sx mini in just power mode, no one will have any issues what so ever.
yes, in retrospect I probably did overreact. look, none of these things are perfect. I said in jest that the dna40 is none the better. they all have quirks but perhaps not "issues". I will apologize that I jumped the gun on that one. I was just adding up the quirks. to tell the truth mine works fine for me even if I am fooling the tc. the .065 is within reason actually. the paint failing is not imo. even though my paint is fine. my s class however shed all of it's paint entirely. I do like it honestly. I was just trying to read between the lines and perhaps I was wearing the wrong glasses. I do not know what persuaded me to jump to that conclusion in retrospect. I figured it seems a lot of you are having problems building and then the paint failure. I maintain mine works fine even if I know none the better. I apologize for making such a brash blanket statement that was most likely unfounded. I truthfully thought I was doing so on the behalf of others. apparently I misunderstood all I have read here. my bad and I am sorry I did so.
Yep.... the EQ was quite a ride..several beta tests and the leaking issue damaging the circuits showed up after release.....recalled with the promise to fix it and market it but never seen again. The devise was revolutionary (auto juice feed) but no one since has carried on with that approach. (that I know of)No apologies needed - I've lived through some big disappointments where new "revolutionary" devices were total epic failures that were pulled (anyone remember the Eclipse/EQ?) .... others that never made it to market and a few where developers took deposits and then disappeared. Just wanted to put these "issues" in perspective-
You know I saw a video once that said if you look at the glass part of the tank really close one end is flat one is rounded. While I have not noticed this myself he said the rounded end should go towards the top of the tank the flat towards the bottom piece that you unscrew. Like I say I have never had a problem on any device but you might check that. It's just weird to me that yours will leak and no one elses will. I have 4 minis and 1 of the old 25mm. I don't use the 25mm but it is laying here on my end table full of juice laying on its side. Did you check the authenticity of them. I just can't under stand why you would have problems with all of yours and it is not wide spread. It makes no sense. Where does it leak from. I know there were some clones out there.Yeah it's a shame as I liked the tank's. Flavour is nice too. But they leak. All of them. Kanga tech sent me new o rings too but after the tank was filled I get leaks. Two originals and a mini. I have £200 worth of new coils sent from China too! I will find a home for them.
That is weird. I run a 7 wrap 28awg 3mm it comes out .09 on either one of mine.I'm using 28g ni200 wire with 5/6 wraps around a 3mm screwdriver in a lemo drop on my sx mini m. The resistance I got last night was showing 0.19. Since, I have run a full tank thru it and it is now showing 0.29. I seem to be way off your figures 2legsshrt. I'm sure it's me, but can someone explain what I would need to do to get a coil around the .065 mark?
p.s. I'm running it at 25J and temperature is set at 330F.